Water Sparkplug

[gotoluc]

Hey Luc, or anyone who knows,

Just a couple quick questions, I'm still new at all this electronic stuff. Are all 1N4005 rectifier diodes created equall, so any of them will work? As in, the ones in the EFIE kits from RedMeanie? What voltage rated 30uf caps should I use with a 120V inverter as my power supply? I have measured up to 130V charging the caps from this inverter through bridge so 150V rate to be safe? Or do they need to be rated for the doubled voltage? Don't want to be exploding caps if I can help it, so I ask questions. Thanks in advance.....................................Mike


Nevermind, I found the answers on Electronic Circuits pretty good site actually.......

Hi jstadwater,

the diodes are very important, the 1N4005 are not ideal for this circuit. I use model 1N5408 which are rated to 1,000 volts 3 amps each. Use a minimum of 7 in series or up to 16 if you wish. If you are testing with low capacitance 30uf or less then 7 diodes will work well but if you increase capacitance uf value then add more diodes. Your capacitor voltage rating is best to be close to double the voltage of your bridge DC output just to be safe but 1.4 x is okay.

If I were you I would save the inverter for later and just plug it in the wall since many inverters have been damaged. We are still in development with the circuit so we will eventually find what works best.

I hope this helps.

Luc

[gotoluc]

hello
i am new here so for those who think "where does he come from?" the answer is here

http://www.energeticforum.com/new-members-area/2665-hello-new-member-here.html

i have replicated this shematic:
Windows Live SkyDrive(right click,save as)
witch is from here.

here is a vid of what i have in a "jumping marble" test:
Windows Live SkyDrive

i have mounted it on a lawnmower(b&s 3.5HP)
it didn't fire the engine, timing is approx.15° after TDC (original timing of approx15°before TDC) i have tried with the original timing too.

for the diodes in series i used 1A rated ones insted of 3A due to my manufacturer mistake who said me it was the same ones, do you think it can be the cause ?(the diodes don't heat and are still alive after several sparking) in any case i have already ordered new ones exactly as the shematic.

my goal is to convert this engine for running on water and if i can then i have a car that only wait to run on water too.

i also have noticed (and you can too) on my video that at firing the ball is seat on the tube and we can see it jumping only at next frame of the vid,when plasma is over. the video is 24 fps, so i am asking of the velocity of burning????
any suggestions?

Bonjour Frenchy,

I'm also French but Canadian. Don't ask me to write in French though, since I never used it. My spoken is still good though.

At this time we are not capable of making a gasoline engine work on water alone. So what we are doing is using gasoline or Diesel and experimenting with the plasma spark and we are finding the engines are running faster or needing less fuel.

Myself I am experimenting with a emulsified water gasoline mixture. Read some of my previous post to understand. This video explains some of what I'm doing: YouTube - Plasma Water & Gasoline Engine Project

Luc

[frenchy]

hello luc,
i understand what you say an have respect for your work, as i said my attempt is to run on water only or mixed with hho but not any fuels, do you think i am at the wrong place? i have seen capacitor70 videos and know that he consume plugs quickly. but i really want to contrubute in the way of no fuel and am searching for help in this way. if you know where the place is then please let me know...
thanks.

[gotoluc]

hello luc,
i understand what you say an have respect for your work, as i said my attempt is to run on water only or mixed with hho but not any fuels, do you think i am at the wrong place? i have seen capacitor70 videos and know that he consume plugs quickly. but i really want to contrubute in the way of no fuel and am searching for help in this way. if you know where the place is then please let me know...
thanks.

I also wanted to run on water only but we don't fully understand how to do that wet. You should read this topic: http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...rowns-gas.html which talks about emulsifying hho in water and burning it as a fuel.

The same topic is at the Overunity Forum. The reason I mention the Overunity Forum is that more interest and activity has been going on the Emulsifying Brown's Gas topic compere to the one here, so it contains more up to date information. You need to sign up but it is close instant. Link to topic is here: Emulsifying Brown's Gas

Also, I was wondering about your 15 degrees ATDC. Why do you want to go so much past TDC

Luc

[K1w1]

dev process

@Frenchy

I think everyones goal is water only for this circuit. At the moment it makes sense to test with a proven fuel source like gas, gasahol, diesel, etc to make sure the components are all functioning smoothly. Taking it one step at a time. That way you can tick off each step and see your progress compared to going for broke and spending a lot of time scratching your beard not knowing where the exact cause of any problems that arise come from.

Of course there is nothing to stop you from starting at the end goal and working your way backwards as it will be a very interesting and useful contribution and may save others some time when/if they get to points that you will have already covered.

I'm sure you will receive lots of assistance from people round here.

You may already know this but one thing to keep in mind with open source development is that every contribution is valuable especially if you can confirm a bug, find a new one or have a new idea/question that needs discussion.

[gmeast]

enhanced effect with parallel HV Diodes

Hi all,

I just wanted to pass along an observation. From the start I have used a 15KV Microwave replacement diode. I fried one or two but it was because of carelessness. I had noticed some heat buildup so I added another in series which did nothing except spread the heat over two components instead of only one and it also weakened the effect. It seems multiple diode drops are a detriment to the effect.

The forward current rating for these particular diodes is just over 1/2 amp and this was the true source of the heat. I put two diodes in parallel to compensate and the diodes stayed cold and the effect must have doubled at least. I then added another so there are now 3 diodes in parallel and the effect became even more enhanced and I'm only at 178VDC charging voltage.

The diode is an NTE517. The Mouser P/N is 526-NTE517. I'm only using 20 Watts of power now for the complete and stable effect and the signature trace I've pointed out before is even more characterized. The spark is a pure white ball of plasma.

The circuit just lopes along without any excessive heat or power usage. I will be using the ultra simple Triac (triode) isolation circuit from my last two videos in my engine tests.

Peace,

Greg

[K1w1]

Wow, That is really a breakthrough piece of knowledge there.

Do you have a revised circuit for this setup?

[gmeast]

Circuit

Wow, That is really a breakthrough piece of knowledge there.

Do you have a revised circuit for this setup?

Hi K1w1,

I will draw up a component diagram and post it tomorrow sometime likely in the A.M. before Noon here in California, USA.

Peace,

Greg

[Gibs]

Let's celebrate!

Hi all,

I just wanted to pass along an observation. From the start I have used a 15KV Microwave replacement diode. I fried one or two but it was because of carelessness. I had noticed some heat buildup so I added another in series which did nothing except spread the heat over two components instead of only one and it also weakened the effect. It seems multiple diode drops are a detriment to the effect.

The forward current rating for these particular diodes is just over 1/2 amp and this was the true source of the heat. I put two diodes in parallel to compensate and the diodes stayed cold and the effect must have doubled at least. I then added another so there are now 3 diodes in parallel and the effect became even more enhanced and I'm only at 178VDC charging voltage.

The diode is an NTE517. The Mouser P/N is 526-NTE517. I'm only using 20 Watts of power now for the complete and stable effect and the signature trace I've pointed out before is even more characterized. The spark is a pure white ball of plasma.

The circuit just lopes along without any excessive heat or power usage. I will be using the ultra simple Triac (triode) isolation circuit from my last two videos in my engine tests.

Peace,

Greg

That's a very good news Greg, congratulations!

[Kinetix]

SCR at work

Hi guys.
I see steps are being made. Congratulations!
I do not have a gas generator, so I can not help you with the timing issue...
Next step after final tests of the ignition would be to mount it directly on my car.
A few days ago I was asking for a schematic to control the TIC126M SCR. One of my romanian friends helped me with that, so today I have tested the ignition with the new SCR discharge module. It makes nice 20mm plasma sparks, and worked fine so far. Although plasma didn't occured every time the HV spark fired, I think it is a problem of bad electrical contact between diodes (they are not soldered, just twisted their terminals) and will not persist after soldering.
If anyone is interested in the schematc, it will be attached below.

All the best!

[magnetO]

Hi kinetix,

great work you are doing!
Seems to get really professional. Will the ignition be sometimes available for purchasing? Would be interested in the 33kHz oscillator, low(er) voltage plasma enhancer circuit, with or without HV ignition side, when available later on.

Had problems with diode string BY448 weeks ago. They are gone. Dont know why, must have destroyed the diodes!
Can get now plasma spark either with 15x BY448 or 20x 1N5408, right outside (up to 6000rpm) and inside of one cylinder of a 4-cylinder engine.
I suppose my 500W inverter (DC12V - AC230V 50HZ - FWB - ~DC300V) for the complete engine will be to small, but I am not that far already.

Bye
magnetO

[jstadwater]

MW diodes in parallel vs. series...........

@ gmeast

I have, from day 2, (since day 1 was in series) had my booster caps dump into 40K microwave diodes in parallel. I wasn't getting the bang I wanted in series, so I tried it the parallel way, better results for me. And as you stated, each time I add another diode, I get more bang and more flame. I should have a pic posted somewhere towards the front pages of this thread of my initial setup (adapted from Peter's and Aaron's setup, of course). Didn't look very good but it was the first one I had gotten to work. I got the 40K diodes from a local microwave repair shop for about $7.00 each. I just picked up two more yesterday, as I plan to use the voltage doubler circuit posted in this thread. At this point, I was impressed with the effect I have with 3 diodes and charging the booster caps to 120V (limit of my inverter, have fried 2 inverters so far). I also have a 40K diode in line between high V+ & low V+ at the coil. As I have only charged to 120V so far, I am very excited to see what effect I will get at twice the voltage! Which brings me to a question, instead of using 2 strings of say 1N5408 diodes, could I just use 2 high voltage diodes for this and still be safe? I know some folks here are using diode strings to create the effect instead of single high volt diodes, wouldn't it work the same way? Anyway, back to the test bench for more play time. Thanks goes out again to all involved, we will have a perfect system soon, I'm sure of it!!!

[gmeast]

higher voltage

@ gmeast

I have, from day 2, (since day 1 was in series) had my booster caps dump into 40K microwave diodes in parallel. I wasn't getting the bang I wanted in series, so I tried it the parallel way, better results for me. And as you stated, each time I add another diode, I get more bang and more flame. I should have a pic posted somewhere towards the front pages of this thread of my initial setup (adapted from Peter's and Aaron's setup, of course). Didn't look very good but it was the first one I had gotten to work. I got the 40K diodes from a local microwave repair shop for about $7.00 each. I just picked up two more yesterday, as I plan to use the voltage doubler circuit posted in this thread. At this point, I was impressed with the effect I have with 3 diodes and charging the booster caps to 120V (limit of my inverter, have fried 2 inverters so far). I also have a 40K diode in line between high V+ & low V+ at the coil. As I have only charged to 120V so far, I am very excited to see what effect I will get at twice the voltage! Which brings me to a question, instead of using 2 strings of say 1N5408 diodes, could I just use 2 high voltage diodes for this and still be safe? I know some folks here are using diode strings to create the effect instead of single high volt diodes, wouldn't it work the same way? Anyway, back to the test bench for more play time. Thanks goes out again to all involved, we will have a perfect system soon, I'm sure of it!!!

Hi jstadwater,

I am happy to see someone else sticking to the original recipe and experiencing the same and observing that same as I.

Higher voltage will enhance the effect greatly. From your experience and mine on this topic, my guess is that you can stay safe with a series of 2 parallel sets of HV diodes (2 parallel diodes in series with 2 other parallel diodes).

Do you have a part number for the 40Kv diodes you use? I too wish to increase my voltage.

Thanks in advance. Peace,

Greg

[jstadwater]

Hey Greg,

I was told by the seller they were 40K, had no reason to doubt. Did the part number search online just now, HV03-12F, was not able to find a list for "HV03-12F", only found for "HV03-12". Interesting, it says only 12KV reverse peak, 350mA w/20 amp surge. I wonder what the "F" stands for? Anyway, they work way better than any ones I snagged from old microwaves that were laying around. Sorry for the unintentional confusion on the KV rate, unless "F" is significant, I guess they are only 12KV.

[gmeast]

diodes

Hey Greg,

I was told by the seller they were 40K, had no reason to doubt. Did the part number search online just now, HV03-12F, was not able to find a list for "HV03-12F", only found for "HV03-12". Interesting, it says only 12KV reverse peak, 350mA w/20 amp surge. I wonder what the "F" stands for? Anyway, they work way better than any ones I snagged from old microwaves that were laying around. Sorry for the unintentional confusion on the KV rate, unless "F" is significant, I guess they are only 12KV.

Hi jstadwater,

That's very nearly the current rating for the NTE 5717's I use except is is published as 15Kv. The summed voltage for the string of diodes being used by some is still only 15Kv or 16Kv. So series(ing) yours or mine should be safe ... you'd think.

Peace,

Greg