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Bedini Ferris Wheel Regauging Motor

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  • John_Bedini
    replied
    Bedini GT3

    Vissie,
    I think I would turn that Zener around and you will see why I did it that way Chuck and I have one working on the bench. You will first see the led's glow then get bright and then the SCR will dump to the battery. You
    need a few electrons as you would call it first. The speed of the motor is important or it will not switch. Somewhere on pages back someone posted that circuit and I said I would test it. this is what I found out that if you use a much higher voltage zener you do not get the current pulse you want The led's solved the problem nothing else worked with that. If the battery does not have the impedance it will not work. This was not my circuit and I just tested it ,it worked real good did not loose much power at all.
    John B










    Originally posted by nvisser View Post
    Hi John
    Is this circuit correct. Is there any specific reason why you use the 2 leds instead of a higher value zener
    Vissie

    Leave a comment:


  • cornfused
    replied
    Originally posted by Aaron View Post
    Thanks Jason!

    Are any of those the "pole splitter"? That is what is most intriguing
    about what you mentioned before?

    John just posted: "One other clue here. ED said that the magnetic streams could be split and if guided in the proper channels become perpetual in flow so we do not need anything spinning, do we. More later as I think of it."

    If there is one thing to search for in that book at the moment, it would
    be the "pole splitter" to see if it describes any of Ed's methods for splitting
    the magnetic streams.
    Turion & Aaron..
    Well I got my train of thought mixed up,, Thanks for pointing out my mistake! my pole splitter was meant to be pole changer,, Sorry for the mistake. Last thing I want to do is post irrevelent stuff here. I knew I had seen some examples of a pole splitter (I guess I made that term up) so I reread Davis's book again,, this is what I originally wanted to post.
    Thanks guys, Jason

    Page 81-82 fig. 55 /Eletro-mag with 3 poles
    Page 65 Fig.41 /Y armature(keeper)

    Leave a comment:


  • John_K
    replied
    Originally posted by BrentA929 View Post
    John K,

    Looking good!

    I too have designed my wheel for a 4' diameter. Do you think that there is any special requirements on distance between magnets? I have ordered 6"x2"x1" ceramics and 2"x1"x0.5" neos. Starting to wonder if those are too big for this size wheel. It puts the about 7.5" from edge to edge. Let me know your thoughts.

    Thanks, Brent
    Hi Brent,

    7.5" spacing sounds OK. My ceramics are only 40mm x 25mm x 10pm and the neos are 10mm x 4mm x 4mm.

    I'm still learning so I don't know if my geometry is right or not. Just thinking aloud, I will look at John B's machine pics and try and get the gauss and pull strength for his magnets to get a better idea of the geometry he has.

    P.s. Thanks John B for the info on the SCR. I have a few ideas I will try in line with your directions.


    John K.


    John K.

    Leave a comment:


  • nvisser
    replied
    Originally posted by John_Bedini View Post
    John K,
    I would use that coil for the side coils. and wind another by putting two of the bobbins together double the impedance in Ohms 14. And make sure you put the shield on the bottom then run the Bedini/Cole circuit. The capacitor should be about 18000Uf use a SCR and a 4.7volt Zener with two 2.8 volt super bright Leds in series with the diode circuit. Machine RPM should be not more then 25 Rpm's. just giving you a tip. Good Work

    John B
    Hi John
    Is this circuit correct. Is there any specific reason why you use the 2 leds instead of a higher value zener
    Vissie

    John said the following , so I updated the diagram.
    "I think I would turn that Zener around and you will see why I did it that way John B
    Last edited by nvisser; 12-21-2010, 09:03 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • John_Bedini
    replied
    Bedini GT3

    John K,
    I would not spend much on the SCR it's just basically a direct switch and will switch off at the battery level. Keep with the same wire size if you can. If you want the discharge to go fast then lower the capacitor 10000uf faster yet 5000uf. If you take the capacitor to low it will be a steady stream of radiant current. If I know you, you will find the sweet spot.
    John B

    Leave a comment:


  • BrentA929
    replied
    John K,

    Looking good!

    I too have designed my wheel for a 4' diameter. Do you think that there is any special requirements on distance between magnets? I have ordered 6"x2"x1" ceramics and 2"x1"x0.5" neos. Starting to wonder if those are too big for this size wheel. It puts the about 7.5" from edge to edge. Let me know your thoughts.

    Thanks, Brent

    Originally posted by John_K View Post
    Hi All,

    Well, I have my 4' "S1GT" running.

    It is only running off a 12V 7Ah gel "lab rat", draws about 750mA and speeds along at 34RPM.

    I couldn't get it to run off hall switching yet as the halls I bought were no good, so it's using the thinner windings on the main coil in series as a trigger. Luckily, some nice chap has posted some halls to me which should arrive before the weekend. (thanks ren )

    Not pulsing the cap yet either, just charging a secondary battery. It's another 12V 7Ah "lab rat", but it started at ~12.5V and is up to 14.2V after about 30 minutes.

    The rotor is a bit wonky and out of balance a bit, so it needs some work.

    Lots of work still to do, but at least it is a start. A couple of pics attached...


    John K.

    Leave a comment:


  • John_K
    replied
    Originally posted by John_Bedini View Post
    John K,
    I would use that coil for the side coils. and wind another by putting two of the bobbins together double the impedance in Ohms 14. And make sure you put the shield on the bottom then run the Bedini/Cole circuit. The capacitor should be about 18000Uf use a SCR and a 4.7volt Zener with two 2.8 volt super bright Leds in series with the diode circuit. Machine RPM should be not more then 25 Rpm's. just giving you a tip. Good Work

    John B
    Hi John B,

    Thanks for the tip. I'll have to order more wire and R60 rods, so it might take some time. Would you also suggest thicker wire since I have to order it? I was considering #20 & #22 for this sized machine. I'd imagine the SCR would have to be pretty beefy too so it doesn't latch when dumping the cap.


    John K.
    Last edited by John_K; 12-16-2010, 03:14 AM. Reason: typo

    Leave a comment:


  • John_Bedini
    replied
    Bedini GT3

    Mike,
    Explain a little more of what your doing here, Let me see across the switch where you should have put the diode bridge. Or if you did not hook it up and run the wires back to the primary battery and lets see the scope shot, that will tell everything. I'm looking for a different wave form then what your showing. It looks like your overshooting the devices.

    John B











    Originally posted by mklimesh View Post
    I first got this new monopole running on a SG circuit with the trigger winding. The axle is north and south. The center axle showed a strong south pole, a compass would spin around and point to it from aprox 16" away.
    With the B/C circuit the compass has to be right up to it to get a small deflection and will not point to it even when right next to it.
    Scope shots across c-e of the upper and lower transistors are very different.
    Upper has a spike larger than the input bat voltage and output bat volt combined.
    Lower quite different.


    Mike Klimesh

    Leave a comment:


  • John_Bedini
    replied
    Bedini GT3

    John K,
    I would use that coil for the side coils. and wind another by putting two of the bobbins together double the impedance in Ohms 14. And make sure you put the shield on the bottom then run the Bedini/Cole circuit. The capacitor should be about 18000Uf use a SCR and a 4.7volt Zener with two 2.8 volt super bright Leds in series with the diode circuit. Machine RPM should be not more then 25 Rpm's. just giving you a tip. Good Work

    John B

    Leave a comment:


  • John_K
    replied
    Coil size

    Originally posted by John_Bedini View Post
    John K,
    How big is your coil ? what is the Z in DC Ohms?
    John B
    Hi John B,

    It's a standard 3" Pittsfiled spool from Rick. (pic attached)

    It has 2 x #21 and 2 x #24. From memory, it was 4.6 ohms and 6.5 ohms but I will measure the Z when I get home tonight to be sure and let you know.


    John K.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • John_Bedini
    replied
    Bedini GT3

    John K,
    How big is your coil ? what is the Z in DC Ohms?
    John B






    Originally posted by John_K View Post
    Hi All,

    Well, I have my 4' "S1GT" running.

    It is only running off a 12V 7Ah gel "lab rat", draws about 750mA and speeds along at 34RPM.

    I couldn't get it to run off hall switching yet as the halls I bought were no good, so it's using the thinner windings on the main coil in series as a trigger. Luckily, some nice chap has posted some halls to me which should arrive before the weekend. (thanks ren )

    Not pulsing the cap yet either, just charging a secondary battery. It's another 12V 7Ah "lab rat", but it started at ~12.5V and is up to 14.2V after about 30 minutes.

    The rotor is a bit wonky and out of balance a bit, so it needs some work.

    Lots of work still to do, but at least it is a start. A couple of pics attached...


    John K.

    Leave a comment:


  • ren
    replied
    Nice work John K, looks pretty big makes your coil look tiny. Let me know how u go with the halls

    Leave a comment:


  • mklimesh
    replied
    Interesting Observation

    I first got this new monopole running on a SG circuit with the trigger winding. The axle is north and south. The center axle showed a strong south pole, a compass would spin around and point to it from aprox 16" away.
    With the B/C circuit the compass has to be right up to it to get a small deflection and will not point to it even when right next to it.
    Scope shots across c-e of the upper and lower transistors are very different.
    Upper has a spike larger than the input bat voltage and output bat volt combined.
    Lower quite different.


    Mike Klimesh
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • david.brown
    replied
    Originally posted by Rl2003 View Post
    David,

    Nice work on the drawing, that must have taken a little time to do.
    While your making your corrections, there is one more slight change.
    The star motor as you call it has ten coils, five are slightly off from the
    other five. If I had to guess I would say about 2.5 degrees, but John
    would know more percisely. The magnets stay like they are. At least that
    is the way I saw it to be.
    Mark P.

    Leave a comment:


  • darkwizard
    replied
    just the same thing several years ago, just the same, the people dont understand what is in front of their eyes, neither the scopeshots, i am seeing this very clearly, the packs of energy that are coming IN and the packs of energy that are going OUT.

    Leave a comment:

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