3 Battery Generating System

[Turion]

Spoon Fed

If you want proof, build an accurate replication. Then you will have it. I will not provide it. Because what YOU know or don't know is up to YOU and YOUR research. It is not up to me or mine. If you don't want to do that, why hang around here? You cannot seem to answer THAT question.

[Iamnuts]

Empirical.

If you actually knew how batteries work, you can get an INCREASE in capacity with each charge cycle up to 10% above the manufacturers rated capacity and keep it there virtually indefinitely. And you can do this while discharging deep cycles down to 10.5 volts every single time as the chemistry is 100% reversible to like-new condition. You don't seem to understand how to deliver a true topping charge to a lead acid battery and what to look for in order to know when it is actually ready.

[bistander]

Spoon fed

hi,
The kind of people I am interested in working with are those that are curious enough and dedicated enough to see something of interest and research it for themselves. Not those who demand to be spoon fed

I still do not understand how requesting proof of your claim equates to "spoon fed".

But enough.

bi

[Turion]

[bistander]

Battery charging

Running an inverter between the positives you are hitting battery 3 with 12 volts to begin with, which is your potential difference, but as the primary batteries go down and battery 3 charges, your potential difference drops below the standing voltage of battery 3. That's an incredibly costly way to try and charge battery 3, and your results will reflect that. The purpose of the boost module is to maintain the input voltage hitting battery 3 at 14.5 volts or HIGHER so that it is ALWAYS getting hit with a higher voltage than its standing voltage. Your results will reflect THAT as well.

Hi Turion,

So what is inferred by your statement is that you do not subscribe to the universally accepted charge algorithm which starts with the bulk phase of constant current, often noted as CC/CV, constant current followed by constant voltage.

You also have said on numerous occasions to keep current at or below C/20. So it would appear that axxelxavier has properly controlled his experiment. Can you show us test data where you, or someone, has boosted voltage like you say and been able to maintain the C/20 current level?

Thanks,

bi

[bistander]

Easy solution

Here is the main reason you don't want to patent your invention

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Invention_Secrecy_Act

They basically kill the patent, put a gag order on you so you can't even talk about your idea, and you are given NO compensation. Better to sell it to the highest bidder for whatever you can get than to try and patent it and end up with nothing. I WOULD say the best idea is to disclose it on a forum like THIS, but nobody will believe you, so that's a waste. Better to sell it for what you can get.

All you have to do is provide proof or, at least, provide supporting evidence of your claims. People don't believe you when you refuse to support your claims with the proof you say that you have.

Regards,

bi

[Turion]

info

Here is the main reason you don't want to patent your invention

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Invention_Secrecy_Act

They basically kill the patent, put a gag order on you so you can't even talk about your idea, and you are given NO compensation. Better to sell it to the highest bidder for whatever you can get than to try and patent it and end up with nothing. I WOULD say the best idea is to disclose it on a forum like THIS, but nobody will believe you, so that's a waste. Better to sell it for what you can get.

[Sawt2]

About booster, I thought there must be a voltage difference between in and out, in order to work properly. Today I've learned I was wrong, so a new test began.
About my inverter, is is 300 watt inverter, nothing special, except it's working between 9,6 - 15 volts, so I hooked up to my setup the booster set to 14,7 volt on output.
I have the data from previous test, so the differences should be visible from the very first run.
Best regards,
Teodor

Great, I hope your experiments go well for you.

[Aaron]

topping charge


If you actually knew how batteries work, you can get an INCREASE in capacity with each charge cycle up to 10% above the manufacturers rated capacity and keep it there virtually indefinitely. And you can do this while discharging deep cycles down to 10.5 volts every single time as the chemistry is 100% reversible to like-new condition. You don't seem to understand how to deliver a true topping charge to a lead acid battery and what to look for in order to know when it is actually ready.

[Iamnuts]

Youtube.

https://youtu.be/npc3uzEVvc0

[Iamnuts]

[axxelxavier]

Not sure what kind of inverter you have, most of the ones I have used over the years can handle up 15-16 volts then automatically shuts off around 10-10.5 volts. Most of the boost modules allow you to adjust the voltage, so you could adjust it so ithe initial differential doesn't exceed your inverter's upper limit.

About booster, I thought there must be a voltage difference between in and out, in order to work properly. Today I've learned I was wrong, so a new test began.
About my inverter, is is 300 watt inverter, nothing special, except it's working between 9,6 - 15 volts, so I hooked up to my setup the booster set to 14,7 volt on output.
I have the data from previous test, so the differences should be visible from the very first run.
Best regards,
Teodor

[Sawt2]

Problem is that differential voltage is @14,5 volt in the beginning, and it's dropping to almost 9 volt in the end, so I don't think a normal booster would work for my 12 volt load.
It should be easier if my load voltage is on 24 volts, but my inverter is working on 12 volts... I will try later the modified motor setup on 24 volts, but after I will find a way to cut the big noise.
So, any suggestion? I want to try again with the inverter and booster, but what setup to choose? 3BGS with booster (I am not quite sure, though, if it will work, because of the big voltage in the beginning, or the setup with 2 batteries, who need booster to work?
Which should be the most efficient?
Best regards,
Teodor

Not sure what kind of inverter you have, most of the ones I have used over the years can handle up 15-16 volts then automatically shuts off around 10-10.5 volts. Most of the boost modules allow you to adjust the voltage, so you could adjust it so ithe initial differential doesn't exceed your inverter's upper limit.

[axxelxavier]

Running an inverter between the positives you are hitting battery 3 with 12 volts to begin with, which is your potential difference, but as the primary batteries go down and battery 3 charges, your potential difference drops below the standing voltage of battery 3. That's an incredibly costly way to try and charge battery 3, and your results will reflect that. The purpose of the boost module is to maintain the input voltage hitting battery 3 at 14.5 volts or HIGHER so that it is ALWAYS getting hit with a higher voltage than its standing voltage. Your results will reflect THAT as well.

Problem is that differential voltage is @14,5 volt in the beginning, and it's dropping to almost 9 volt in the end, so I don't think a normal booster would work for my 12 volt load.
It should be easier if my load voltage is on 24 volts, but my inverter is working on 12 volts... I will try later the modified motor setup on 24 volts, but after I will find a way to cut the big noise.
So, any suggestion? I want to try again with the inverter and booster, but what setup to choose? 3BGS with booster (I am not quite sure, though, if it will work, because of the big voltage in the beginning, or the setup with 2 batteries, who need booster to work?
Which should be the most efficient?
Best regards,
Teodor

[Turion]

Boost module.

Running an inverter between the positives you are hitting battery 3 with 12 volts to begin with, which is your potential difference, but as the primary batteries go down and battery 3 charges, your potential difference drops below the standing voltage of battery 3. That's an incredibly costly way to try and charge battery 3, and your results will reflect that. The purpose of the boost module is to maintain the input voltage hitting battery 3 at 14.5 volts or HIGHER so that it is ALWAYS getting hit with a higher voltage than its standing voltage. Your results will reflect THAT as well.