3 Battery Generating System

[john_g]

Hi Turion

Interesting the quote from JB, which reminds me of UK pat 17,811 which appears to use a tank circuit charging the cap with positive on both plates - see the item in the highlighted red box. The diagram has arrows to show the flow and items a & b in the lines feeding the cap are mercury rectifiers.

Regards
John

[shylo]

Connections

Hi All, I think the answer lies in connections , and when they engage.
In all my testes the motor always speeds up , and slows down.
The readings drop, but then they climb,but then they drop again to a lower value, .........
When their climbing draw from them..
shylo

[Turion]

Shylo,

You made an important point there that I have mentioned before. YOU must start with some load on the motor. When you put a load on battery 3, the motor will speed up. Then you have to wait. If it speeds up a SECOND time, your load on the motor is balanced with the load on battery three and you will get great run times of maybe several hours. If it does NOT speed up a second time you have to add a small load to battery three. This of course will cause the motor to speed up so now you have to wait AGAIN to see if it speeds up a second time. A tedious process I know, but the ONLY way to get batt 3 to NOT CHARGE UP which will cause the whole setup to quit working. You have to do this over and over until you get that second speedup.

Dave

[liber63]

[citfta]

Swapping batteries

It was discussed in an earlier post about swapping the 3 batteries around to try and keep all of them charged or to keep the bad one from charging. Here is a circuit I designed and built a while back when I was trying to keep 3 good batteries charged and run a load off them at the same time. Notice that there is no load on "batt 3" because I was only working with 3 good batteries trying to get the results of the original circuit which was designed to keep all batteries charged. Of course David found an new use for this circuit and that is why we have this thread.

You must have one of the relays energized or you will have 36 volts going to your motor! I used a pic processor to control 3 2N3055 transistors which in turn controlled the 3 relays. I found by controlling the timing I could get very long run times from the 3 good batteries. The relays are just double pole double throw relays with 12 volt coils. They do need to be able to handle a fair amount of current on the contacts if you plan to load the motor down. With a very light load or no load you may be able to get this system to actually raise the voltage of your 3 good batteries. I did not try this with Matt's modified motor and want to go back and do that when I get a chance to try it. It may very well charge all the batteries and run a load.

Later, Carroll

[Duncan]

welcome!

[QUOTE=liber63;234532]

[Duncan]

for consideration

as you guys know I have tested and demonstrated resonant points regarding lead acid cells ... now and again I google the subject... how I have missed this for a few months I don't know It seems to be a lesson in the 3BS
Lead acid battery maximiser & Resonance fact or fiction in Lead Acid Batteries Forum

ps by the demise of the links I suggest Y copy web page to HD D

[Duncan]

Simple DIY Induction Heater - RMCyberneticsTROS - DC/DC charger/converter - YouTube keep posting, keep it wide open

[Turion]

Someone download that video fast and let's get the schematic before it disappears! LOL

I would, but I'm on the road.

Dave

[prembold]

Someone download that video fast and let's get the schematic before it disappears! LOL

I would, but I'm on the road.

Dave

Duncan, Thanks for the original link . . . .
Dave, good material is a must, a copy of Igor Moroz video has been archived @

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8rftt794domlq9i/TROS%20-%20DC_DC%20charger_converter.mp4

we need to ponder this a bit

prembold

[LutherG]

Dave - Sound familiar??

Thanks for posting Panos!!

Dave, we were just having this conversation and I noted that when you had the primaries rising so fast you guys ran out of the room, you were running a shop vac off of battery 3 via an inverter... we wondered if having a motor there - what was it - maybe a universal motor - may have added the extra voltage spiking that was raising the voltage on batteries 1 & 2...

So now we have another motor being run as a direct load off of battery 3... this is really interesting!

@Panos, the RC motor - is it a little brushed DC motor? Can you post photos and or a video of the setup - perhaps even with it running?

This is pretty awesome news! I've got my SG running in my garage conditioning a battery and a Batcap to try out but I'll be spending the rest of today and all of tomorrow (sunday) remodelling so I won't get to play with anything before Monday maybe...



Cheers,

Luther

[liber63]

Hi everybody!
Hi! Duncan! Gold fever indeed, I spent all day today experimenting different setups. Trying to be familiar with the thing. Your previous links are very helpful to understand a lot of things!
If that's any help, reading my post again, I realized that i didn't make it clear that voltage indication was going up and down on the multimeter hooked on bat3(A2) and the rc motor was running very fast, but not hot enough, you could easily hold it with with bare hands. I also remember that after I shut it off, I tried once more without the Motor (just wire from negative P1 to negative bat3 or A2). The rc small motor run again but not the same effect. Since then all the different setups i tried, (either trying to replicate this specific setup or others) didn't show the same effect unfortunately.
Hi! Luther, I think i even start blushing just for writing to you guys! Anyways!
Yes, the small motor is brushed one, here it is: $2.37 2.4V DC Micro Motor - FF-180PH-2852 - 8100rpm, 0.15A no load / 120g-cm torque @ 4.5A at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping and here the 1st of the two: FF-180PH/SH
After all I have seen on this thread, if I show you pictures of my setup i understand you will be laughing till the end of time, if there is any such thing. But, I am not really so proud and respectful guy, (hope it's the right word for this case) so i will take a shot tomorrow.
But as Duncan says, it's not the real point to charge the primaries batteries, isn't so?

Panos

[Duncan]

Hi everybody!
Hi! Duncan! Gold fever indeed, I spent all day today experimenting different setups. Trying to be familiar with the thing. Your previous links are very helpful to understand a lot of things!
If that's any help, reading my post again, I realized that i didn't make it clear that voltage indication was going up and down on the multimeter hooked on bat3(A2) and the rc motor was running very fast, but not hot enough, you could easily hold it with with bare hands. I also remember that after I shut it off, I tried once more without the Motor (just wire from negative P1 to negative bat3 or A2). The rc small motor run again but not the same effect. Since then all the different setups i tried, (either trying to replicate this specific setup or others) didn't show the same effect unfortunately.
Hi! Luther, I think i even start blushing just for writing to you guys! Anyways!
Yes, the small motor is brushed one, here it is: $2.37 2.4V DC Micro Motor - FF-180PH-2852 - 8100rpm, 0.15A no load / 120g-cm torque @ 4.5A at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping and here the 1st of the two: FF-180PH/SH
After all I have seen on this thread, if I show you pictures of my setup i understand you will be laughing till the end of time, if there is any such thing. But, I am not really so proud and respectful guy, (hope it's the right word for this case) so i will take a shot tomorrow.
But as Duncan says, it's not the real point to charge the primaries batteries, isn't so?

Panos

It was a little motor much like that I was running when the battery posts iced up in front of me .... could have knocked me over with a feather I hope you see the same

[LutherG]

Generator quality

Thanks Dave,

To add a little context, the point I was making had to do with separating the motor and generator as seen in the motor spinning a generator rotor with coils. Get the system working fast enough, then the generator acts like a voltage source and putting a load on it raises the RPM because it is relieving some of the little bit of lenz that's there and the system speeds up but only so much... but this is a good thing!

What I like about the 3BGS is that, having the motor and generator in one unit (an off the shelf brushed DC motor between the 24v+ and 12v+) is that as you pull the generated current - voltage - whichever - out, it causes the motor itself to speed up and not only does it speed up, it gains tremendous torque as it does so. Peter Lindemann showed and discussed this in his electric motor secrets video... So its kind of a double whammy in one so to speak. You can see the smoke coming off the welding glove in one of my videos where I was using the glove to put a mechanical load on the little motor shaft... I've not seen a pulse motor get that kind of torque. Now, a window motor would probably be able to do that, but its not a generator... but it is incredibly efficient!

Overall the 3BGS System seems to be a more robust system to me. I'm not saying one system is better than the other - as long as you can run a load and sustain the system - who cares - right? Its just a matter of preference plus its just really made an impact on me that I can take an industrial motor off the shelf, and use it as is, and get way over rated horse power by pulling the energy out of it and watch the rpm rise as a result. The higher the rpm, the more the motor generates... We've talked about all this before... and Dave and I were just comparing notes... When the system is tuned, you have one heck-of-a-motor and it just keeps putting out the power. Plus, the gain in torque means you can run a conventional genhead. I just think for the masses, the less they have to build themselves, the more accessible this system becomes...

This is not to take anything away from Matt, Erfinder or Ufo - those guys are all AWESOME!

Also, I know Dave posted this and included JB's quote but I haven't seen it yet and just wanted to point out that I've also heard this from another source that as you rotate the 3 batteries as shown in JB's original document on the Tesla Switch, they come to the place where they all have the same impedance - thus when the system is resonant they will all charge...

Thanks Duncan for pointing out the information on resonance (John Bedini told this to all of us how long ago???)... I've been watching Moroz' work with the induction cooker circuit but hadn't seen this video on resonance... I'll definitely upgrade my setup to 3 identical batteries and start swapping them around to see if I can get them closer to one another in impedance...

Best regards to all,

Luther

[citfta]

Swapping circuit

Hi Luther,

Did you see post 2195? I have a schematic there for a relatively simple battery swapper so you can automate your swapping of the 3 batteries. Using a pic chip or stamp controller you can adjust your timing to try different swapping rates or even keep one battery reversed longer if you think that is needed to get them all balanced.

Later, Carroll