3 Battery Generating System

[john_g]

Hi Turion

Interesting the quote from JB, which reminds me of UK pat 17,811 which appears to use a tank circuit charging the cap with positive on both plates - see the item in the highlighted red box. The diagram has arrows to show the flow and items a & b in the lines feeding the cap are mercury rectifiers.

Regards
John

[shylo]

Connections

Hi All, I think the answer lies in connections , and when they engage.
In all my testes the motor always speeds up , and slows down.
The readings drop, but then they climb,but then they drop again to a lower value, .........
When their climbing draw from them..
shylo

[Turion]

Shylo,

You made an important point there that I have mentioned before. YOU must start with some load on the motor. When you put a load on battery 3, the motor will speed up. Then you have to wait. If it speeds up a SECOND time, your load on the motor is balanced with the load on battery three and you will get great run times of maybe several hours. If it does NOT speed up a second time you have to add a small load to battery three. This of course will cause the motor to speed up so now you have to wait AGAIN to see if it speeds up a second time. A tedious process I know, but the ONLY way to get batt 3 to NOT CHARGE UP which will cause the whole setup to quit working. You have to do this over and over until you get that second speedup.

Dave

[liber63]

Hi everybody!
First of all I want to thank everybody who has contributed to this thread.
I ‘ve been following this thread for 3 weeks now, and have read until page 34 so far. I know that a lot of people, knowleadgable and very experienced in the field of free energy, follow this thread and write here. I have very little to none understanding and I just want to share my experience of the replication of 3GBS I had.
I couldn’t believe I had something new to say, but Dave encouraged me to write here.
So first of all, all my batteries I have worked with, come from electronic shops that were kept for recycling. Batteries from UPS, 7 or 9 AH, 12volts. So even my Good batteries are already Bad batteries with no real power for this setup, I suppose. I just put the ones that hold some voltage above 11 volts to be the Good batteries.
The setup of course is the original first one with just 3 bats and nothing else. I bought a very small rc motor and few bulbs as well as a second multimeter, all in all about 15 euros. I took from an old Kawasaki kle 500, the radiator fan and used this as the Motor. The first setup I ran few times, first time 5 minutes, second time 10, third time about 35 minutes and forth about 10. Of course I could not keep from draining the Primaries, but every time I stopped, a minute later or so, voltage was rising at the primaries and even when left for some hours continued to rise. In the end batteries lost about 1volt and 0,5 volt. That was a real experience for me. But not as much as my second setup.
In the second setup (just different primaries of the same value), Motor started after I put a load a 10watts bulb as a load. P1 and P2 was draining little voltage and I thought to connect the small rc motor as a load. When I did that, the Motor stopped completely and the bulb went off. I swithced off the bulb and then I noticed that the primaries were charging. Then looked at the multimeter and voltage indication was going like crazy from 1 to 28volts going up and down in different numbers. The primaries were charged very quickly within few minutes. The Motor was not moving. Only the small motor that was the load, across bad battery (A2). I had no other lights on as a load. That one was the real experience in the end.
Today I tried a little to repeat this but didn’t manage. On the other hand, I managed to have at least 3 hours runs totally (30min, 60min 90min)with some drop in voltage around 4 or 5 volts, which again was and still is coming up again after I shut the system up. (I hope you guys understand my kind of English)
Anyways I think I am totally obsessed with 3GBS and I will keep reading all of you, though sometimes I don’t understand a word of what some of you say.
Thanks a lot Dave and everybody else.

Panos

[citfta]

Swapping batteries

It was discussed in an earlier post about swapping the 3 batteries around to try and keep all of them charged or to keep the bad one from charging. Here is a circuit I designed and built a while back when I was trying to keep 3 good batteries charged and run a load off them at the same time. Notice that there is no load on "batt 3" because I was only working with 3 good batteries trying to get the results of the original circuit which was designed to keep all batteries charged. Of course David found an new use for this circuit and that is why we have this thread.

You must have one of the relays energized or you will have 36 volts going to your motor! I used a pic processor to control 3 2N3055 transistors which in turn controlled the 3 relays. I found by controlling the timing I could get very long run times from the 3 good batteries. The relays are just double pole double throw relays with 12 volt coils. They do need to be able to handle a fair amount of current on the contacts if you plan to load the motor down. With a very light load or no load you may be able to get this system to actually raise the voltage of your 3 good batteries. I did not try this with Matt's modified motor and want to go back and do that when I get a chance to try it. It may very well charge all the batteries and run a load.

Later, Carroll

[Duncan]

welcome!

[QUOTE=liber63;234532]Hi everybody!
First of all I want to thank everybody who has contributed to this thread.
I ‘ve been following this thread for 3 weeks now, and have read until page 34 so far. I know that a lot of people, knowleadgable and very experienced in the field of free energy, follow this thread and write here. I have very little to none understanding and I just want to share my experience of the replication of 3GBS I had.
I couldn’t believe I had something new to say, but Dave encouraged me to write here.
So first of all, all my batteries I have worked with, come from electronic shops that were kept for recycling. Batteries from UPS, 7 or 9 AH, 12volts. So even my Good batteries are already Bad batteries with no real power for this setup, I suppose. I just put the ones that hold some voltage above 11 volts to be the Good batteries.
The setup of course is the original first one with just 3 bats and nothing else. I bought a very small rc motor and few bulbs as well as a second multimeter, all in all about 15 euros. I took from an old Kawasaki kle 500, the radiator fan and used this as the Motor. The first setup I ran few times, first time 5 minutes, second time 10, third time about 35 minutes and forth about 10. Of course I could not keep from draining the Primaries, but every time I stopped, a minute later or so, voltage was rising at the primaries and even when left for some hours continued to rise. In the end batteries lost about 1volt and 0,5 volt. That was a real experience for me. But not as much as my second setup.
In the second setup (just different primaries of the same value), Motor started after I put a load a 10watts bulb as a load. P1 and P2 was draining little voltage and I thought to connect the small rc motor as a load. When I did that, the Motor stopped completely and the bulb went off. I swithced off the bulb and then I noticed that the primaries were charging. Then looked at the multimeter and voltage indication was going like crazy from 1 to 28volts going up and down in different numbers. The primaries were charged very quickly within few minutes. The Motor was not moving. Only the small motor that was the load, across bad battery (A2). I had no other lights on as a load. That one was the real experience in the end.
Today I tried a little to repeat this but didn’t manage. On the other hand, I managed to have at least 3 hours runs totally (30min, 60min 90min)with some drop in voltage around 4 or 5 volts, which again was and still is coming up again after I shut the system up. (I hope you guys understand my kind of English)
Anyways I think I am totally obsessed with 3GBS and I will keep reading all of you, though sometimes I don’t understand a word of what some of you say.
Thanks a lot Dave and everybody else.

Panos[/QUOTE

your first post ! and you have a source of "bad batteries"!!! it also seems as if you have already seen the effect ... hooked ..
very hard to let go once that's happened ! like gold fever welcome to the club

[Duncan]

for consideration

as you guys know I have tested and demonstrated resonant points regarding lead acid cells ... now and again I google the subject... how I have missed this for a few months I don't know It seems to be a lesson in the 3BS
Lead acid battery maximiser & Resonance fact or fiction in Lead Acid Batteries Forum

ps by the demise of the links I suggest Y copy web page to HD D

[Duncan]

Stop building .. read.. digest.. adapt

Because my spelling is bloody awful I tend to write else where (with a spell check ) a then copy and paste … as such I tend to be researching,thinking and adding as I go along, on the hoof so to speak, I some times find it annoying when some (what I think) is an “original bit of brilliance” I'm investigating has been “done and dusted by someone else … not in this case …. It answers a lot of questions. So let me share with you ….. first I wrote this (after my last post) ...


The implications here are obvious and fit in with the 3BS … this guys primary interest is charging and saving batteries …. ours however is in going massively over unity. At the start of this article you can see a lead acid battery (any size) can be brought to 100% charge in minuets given the right pulse and RESONANCE the next article tells you that with a fraction of a mill watt a foot square area will resonate, it is obvious that if a battery charged in this fashion (in minutes) can charge another and supply a large load for several hours … why its game set and match boys and girls.
Here is the problem … and I think it always has been …. tracking the resonant point.
After all that’s what your doing manually …. Isn't it ? Altering loads … altering frequency … altering impedance , Unfortunately Chris who wrote the article has a primary interest in charging the battery and not COP+1, he's happy to sweep around and about the resonant point where as we wish to track (or preferably pre-empt) and stay on it .

Then I thought about tracking resonance and remembered a very simple circuit that does exactly that I remembered This British company who knocked out this circuit & kit using it

Simple DIY Induction Heater - RMCybernetics

The Royer oscillator is common and so I searched to see if anyone else had come up with this association ….. This guy does not seem to have put the rest of the puzzle together ….

BUT WATCH THIS CARFULLY boys and girls

TROS - DC/DC charger/converter - YouTube

pity he didn't put a giant inverter on there instead of a silly light bulb ….. and its a pity he wasn't reading this thread … what's even more bloody annoying is as I started watching I realised I was subscribed to this guys channel but hadn't watched this video …... DOH
now add the bits together ….. The harmonics ,the overtones ,Marcus Reid,John Hutchinson, the battery charging effects I've posted above, The resonant state, the telluric current and now of course a demonstration of going COP + 1 by tracking the batteries resonant condition with a very basic Royer. …. add that to the other charging and modulation information given by Chris … Improve on it by all means but really ….. Its pretty much over … Isn't It ?
you have all the bits, most have seen them working, now you see why and how .... and also how to follow resonance anti phase ... just stick the bits together ..... keep it very very simple or it wont get out of the box .... and watch out for the Gollum syndrome keep posting, keep it wide open

[Turion]

Someone download that video fast and let's get the schematic before it disappears! LOL

I would, but I'm on the road.

Dave

[prembold]

Someone download that video fast and let's get the schematic before it disappears! LOL

I would, but I'm on the road.

Dave

Duncan, Thanks for the original link . . . .
Dave, good material is a must, a copy of Igor Moroz video has been archived @

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8rftt794domlq9i/TROS%20-%20DC_DC%20charger_converter.mp4

we need to ponder this a bit

prembold

[LutherG]

Dave - Sound familiar??

Hi everybody!
First of all I want to thank everybody who has contributed to this thread.
I ‘ve been following this thread for 3 weeks now, and have read until page 34 so far. I know that a lot of people, knowleadgable and very experienced in the field of free energy, follow this thread and write here. I have very little to none understanding and I just want to share my experience of the replication of 3GBS I had.
I couldn’t believe I had something new to say, but Dave encouraged me to write here.
So first of all, all my batteries I have worked with, come from electronic shops that were kept for recycling. Batteries from UPS, 7 or 9 AH, 12volts. So even my Good batteries are already Bad batteries with no real power for this setup, I suppose. I just put the ones that hold some voltage above 11 volts to be the Good batteries.
The setup of course is the original first one with just 3 bats and nothing else. I bought a very small rc motor and few bulbs as well as a second multimeter, all in all about 15 euros. I took from an old Kawasaki kle 500, the radiator fan and used this as the Motor. The first setup I ran few times, first time 5 minutes, second time 10, third time about 35 minutes and forth about 10. Of course I could not keep from draining the Primaries, but every time I stopped, a minute later or so, voltage was rising at the primaries and even when left for some hours continued to rise. In the end batteries lost about 1volt and 0,5 volt. That was a real experience for me. But not as much as my second setup.
In the second setup (just different primaries of the same value), Motor started after I put a load a 10watts bulb as a load. P1 and P2 was draining little voltage and I thought to connect the small rc motor as a load. When I did that, the Motor stopped completely and the bulb went off. I swithced off the bulb and then I noticed that the primaries were charging. Then looked at the multimeter and voltage indication was going like crazy from 1 to 28volts going up and down in different numbers. The primaries were charged very quickly within few minutes. The Motor was not moving. Only the small motor that was the load, across bad battery (A2). I had no other lights on as a load. That one was the real experience in the end.
Today I tried a little to repeat this but didn’t manage. On the other hand, I managed to have at least 3 hours runs totally (30min, 60min 90min)with some drop in voltage around 4 or 5 volts, which again was and still is coming up again after I shut the system up. (I hope you guys understand my kind of English)
Anyways I think I am totally obsessed with 3GBS and I will keep reading all of you, though sometimes I don’t understand a word of what some of you say.
Thanks a lot Dave and everybody else.

Panos

Thanks for posting Panos!!

Dave, we were just having this conversation and I noted that when you had the primaries rising so fast you guys ran out of the room, you were running a shop vac off of battery 3 via an inverter... we wondered if having a motor there - what was it - maybe a universal motor - may have added the extra voltage spiking that was raising the voltage on batteries 1 & 2...

So now we have another motor being run as a direct load off of battery 3... this is really interesting!

@Panos, the RC motor - is it a little brushed DC motor? Can you post photos and or a video of the setup - perhaps even with it running?

This is pretty awesome news! I've got my SG running in my garage conditioning a battery and a Batcap to try out but I'll be spending the rest of today and all of tomorrow (sunday) remodelling so I won't get to play with anything before Monday maybe...



Cheers,

Luther

[liber63]

Hi everybody!
Hi! Duncan! Gold fever indeed, I spent all day today experimenting different setups. Trying to be familiar with the thing. Your previous links are very helpful to understand a lot of things!
If that's any help, reading my post again, I realized that i didn't make it clear that voltage indication was going up and down on the multimeter hooked on bat3(A2) and the rc motor was running very fast, but not hot enough, you could easily hold it with with bare hands. I also remember that after I shut it off, I tried once more without the Motor (just wire from negative P1 to negative bat3 or A2). The rc small motor run again but not the same effect. Since then all the different setups i tried, (either trying to replicate this specific setup or others) didn't show the same effect unfortunately.
Hi! Luther, I think i even start blushing just for writing to you guys! Anyways!
Yes, the small motor is brushed one, here it is: $2.37 2.4V DC Micro Motor - FF-180PH-2852 - 8100rpm, 0.15A no load / 120g-cm torque @ 4.5A at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping and here the 1st of the two: FF-180PH/SH
After all I have seen on this thread, if I show you pictures of my setup i understand you will be laughing till the end of time, if there is any such thing. But, I am not really so proud and respectful guy, (hope it's the right word for this case) so i will take a shot tomorrow.
But as Duncan says, it's not the real point to charge the primaries batteries, isn't so?

Panos

[Duncan]

Hi everybody!
Hi! Duncan! Gold fever indeed, I spent all day today experimenting different setups. Trying to be familiar with the thing. Your previous links are very helpful to understand a lot of things!
If that's any help, reading my post again, I realized that i didn't make it clear that voltage indication was going up and down on the multimeter hooked on bat3(A2) and the rc motor was running very fast, but not hot enough, you could easily hold it with with bare hands. I also remember that after I shut it off, I tried once more without the Motor (just wire from negative P1 to negative bat3 or A2). The rc small motor run again but not the same effect. Since then all the different setups i tried, (either trying to replicate this specific setup or others) didn't show the same effect unfortunately.
Hi! Luther, I think i even start blushing just for writing to you guys! Anyways!
Yes, the small motor is brushed one, here it is: $2.37 2.4V DC Micro Motor - FF-180PH-2852 - 8100rpm, 0.15A no load / 120g-cm torque @ 4.5A at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping and here the 1st of the two: FF-180PH/SH
After all I have seen on this thread, if I show you pictures of my setup i understand you will be laughing till the end of time, if there is any such thing. But, I am not really so proud and respectful guy, (hope it's the right word for this case) so i will take a shot tomorrow.
But as Duncan says, it's not the real point to charge the primaries batteries, isn't so?

Panos

It was a little motor much like that I was running when the battery posts iced up in front of me .... could have knocked me over with a feather I hope you see the same

[LutherG]

Generator quality

It's all there. Duncan has been talking about this on his thread, and all we have to do is open our eyes and look around. I am going to post this, then come back and edit it with a long explanation.

Here Goes:


I have personally seen several motors that consume less energy than they take to run. Matt's motor is one of these, (12 volts in but 14+ volts out running on the 3BGS) but so is UFO’s, so is erfinder’s motor. We HAVE a motor to run a free energy device and we ALL know how to build it. The pdf for Matt’s motor is HERE on this thread. But check out UFO’s motor thread and erfinder’s channel on YouTube.

Thaine Heins has showed us how to build generators that speed the prime mover up under load. Luther pointed out to me the other day that this may be just because they reduce the Lenz effect, and at some point this may slow down or stop, but all I care about is that until that happens, I can turn one of these generators for only the cost of the friction of the bearings and some heat, while reaping the benefits of the power it generates. Both the PMH generator that I stumbled on while messing with my PMH and that of erfinder (not to mention the other generators he has built) prove that Thaine knows what he is talking about. I have built small versions of these generators. (Two coil setups) I have SEEN that they speed up under load. I have a 12 coil setup run by Matt's pulse motor sitting on my bench as I write this.

So you take one of these motors and you put it together with one of these generators and what do you get? ……..But wait, there’s more! If you run this on the 3BGS setup and use a cap in the third position, the primaries last longer than they are supposed to, and you use up hardly any power. It goes through the motor and builds up in the cap. Can we devise a method to dump that cap back into the primaries while it is replaced by another cap? Or dump it into a different set of two primaries that are busy being charged while two other primaries are running the setup? This is not rocket science. For me one of the MOST IMPORTANT discoveries about the 3BGS was that you can run the motor on the POTENTIAL DIFFERENCE between the primaries and the secondary without using (hardly) ANY of that power up.

Then, if you bleed off a little of the voltage created by the generator to keep the primaries pulse charged, you get to use the rest “for free.” Bedini pulsed charged his primaries on the monoplole which I believe eventually ran down, but he wasn’t running on the 3BGS configuration either!

Do you see it? Is it really there? Or am I just losing my mind? I have built ALL these things. I have seen ALL these things WORK. I have put ALL these things together

What would you say if I said I have video of such a working system?

We have a bunch of folks testing a possible solution for the third battery, so we get closer every day to a setup that doesn’t need these other pieces to work as well as they do, but why not USE them when we know they work? It is time for some folks to get off their butts and build some stuff. Together we can figure this out, but not if you stand around talking instead of BUILDING.

Dave

Thanks Dave,

To add a little context, the point I was making had to do with separating the motor and generator as seen in the motor spinning a generator rotor with coils. Get the system working fast enough, then the generator acts like a voltage source and putting a load on it raises the RPM because it is relieving some of the little bit of lenz that's there and the system speeds up but only so much... but this is a good thing!

What I like about the 3BGS is that, having the motor and generator in one unit (an off the shelf brushed DC motor between the 24v+ and 12v+) is that as you pull the generated current - voltage - whichever - out, it causes the motor itself to speed up and not only does it speed up, it gains tremendous torque as it does so. Peter Lindemann showed and discussed this in his electric motor secrets video... So its kind of a double whammy in one so to speak. You can see the smoke coming off the welding glove in one of my videos where I was using the glove to put a mechanical load on the little motor shaft... I've not seen a pulse motor get that kind of torque. Now, a window motor would probably be able to do that, but its not a generator... but it is incredibly efficient!

Overall the 3BGS System seems to be a more robust system to me. I'm not saying one system is better than the other - as long as you can run a load and sustain the system - who cares - right? Its just a matter of preference plus its just really made an impact on me that I can take an industrial motor off the shelf, and use it as is, and get way over rated horse power by pulling the energy out of it and watch the rpm rise as a result. The higher the rpm, the more the motor generates... We've talked about all this before... and Dave and I were just comparing notes... When the system is tuned, you have one heck-of-a-motor and it just keeps putting out the power. Plus, the gain in torque means you can run a conventional genhead. I just think for the masses, the less they have to build themselves, the more accessible this system becomes...

This is not to take anything away from Matt, Erfinder or Ufo - those guys are all AWESOME!

Also, I know Dave posted this and included JB's quote but I haven't seen it yet and just wanted to point out that I've also heard this from another source that as you rotate the 3 batteries as shown in JB's original document on the Tesla Switch, they come to the place where they all have the same impedance - thus when the system is resonant they will all charge...

Thanks Duncan for pointing out the information on resonance (John Bedini told this to all of us how long ago???)... I've been watching Moroz' work with the induction cooker circuit but hadn't seen this video on resonance... I'll definitely upgrade my setup to 3 identical batteries and start swapping them around to see if I can get them closer to one another in impedance...

Best regards to all,

Luther

[citfta]

Swapping circuit

Hi Luther,

Did you see post 2195? I have a schematic there for a relatively simple battery swapper so you can automate your swapping of the 3 batteries. Using a pic chip or stamp controller you can adjust your timing to try different swapping rates or even keep one battery reversed longer if you think that is needed to get them all balanced.

Later, Carroll