Tesla's Magnifying Transmitter "Replications"

[dR-Green]

The circuit is drawing maybe 800mA-2A, it's not easy to tell 9v input.

Make that 60mA Changed over to an analogue meter. I've been suspecting it for a while but a claimed 8-14 amp draw and a cool transistor when I'm trying to do things without overloading the PSU was the final straw. Also on 12v now.

And as comical as it may seem at first, excellent work on making the wall carving a working device Farmhand

I think the end of that 2nd video might also answer my question as to what kind of output you can get

[Farmhand]

Make that 60mA Changed over to an analogue meter. I've been suspecting it for a while but a claimed 8-14 amp draw and a cool transistor when I'm trying to do things without overloading the PSU was the final straw. Also on 12v now.

Yeah strange things will happen, it is really hard to believe when those guys show a digital clamp meter reading in the vacinity of a spark gap. Like in the Don Smith replications or Kapendaze, around a spark gap a clamp meter reading means less than nothing, more missleading than anything, even just "around" High Frequency High voltage circuits like Tesla coils the readings are not reliable and if they have something to show why not use an analogue meter.

Coincidentally my clamp meter reads a fairly regular reading of around 14 Amperes when trying to measure an AC output around my High Frequency stuff. This is close to the reading I see on other people's meters in some video's. I remember seeing one particular video where the meter was fluctuating wildly between about 7 and 12 amperes output but the lights did not reflect the fluctuations, And the same meter measured the output from an NST as being 1.2 Amperes they are usually in the very low hundreds of milliamps output mostly less than 100 Ma from memory so the meter was reading "off" by about 12 x (times) for that, around about.

And as comical as it may seem at first, excellent work on making the wall carving a working device Farmhand

I think the end of that 2nd video might also answer my question as to what kind of output you can get

Haha I just thought I would try for a laugh ! So as not to seem too serious about it ( I hope you cracked a smile ), but who knows, maybe it is a patent..... They might turn up to enforce the law and demand royalties or loyalties or whatever. I wouldn't say what I did with the light on one wire was practical in a house or shed, but it could be useful in a cave.

Nah I don't think my setup could run a spark gap, even if the HV output is rectified along with the center tap because my voltage is too low, I only wanted enough voltage to run fluros like a few hundred volts. To make our own HV coils like flybacks and stuff we will have to use a lot of thin wire, and wind it on iron laminate or silicon steel, which I think is a good enough reason to buy or gather ignition coils and flybacks respectively.

Remember if you buy an ignition coil be sure not to get one with a resistor in it, mine has a resistor and it retards the operation for what we want I think.

I have a circuit for a dual ignition coil serious HV output, like as in opposing HV output one up from zero one down in phase or alternating. Or also for combining the output of both in parallel out of phase or in phase. Skys the limit. For now... Maybe I should buy a "matched pair" of ignition coils so I can build it. Hmmm, yes I think I will.

Cheers

[Farmhand]

Here's some things I considered about NST's, Tesla Coils, Spark gaps and digital current meters.

Consider this NST for example.
NICE Dimmable Ventex Neon Sign Power Supply Transformer | eBay

It is 120 v x 1.1 amp max input =132 watts

Which make's a claimed output of 12 000 volts at 30 Ma = 360 watts

Disregard the apparent C.O.P. 2 and just consider the possible 3 Amps at 120 volts if it were converted straight back to 120 volts.

Now if a digital current meter reads 1.2 amps at the output of the NST which is about 30 Ma maybe up to 120 Ma or a bit more for some, then how far off is the reading at the output to the lights or the target load ?

My suggestion for this problem is just to measure the output of the NST with the spark gap and Tesla coil running using the current meter and if it won't read the NST output current correctly, then may as well put it away because it is no good for this application it won't read correctly.

Anyway why not just try to rectify and down convert the HV output of the NST itself for a C.O.P. of 2 or even up to C.O.P. 4 which some of them calculate to ?

Now I'm not trying to be nasty to anyone or anything but we need to make some sense of things. To move forwards.

Seems to me the effect we are after is already occuring inside the NST ! Or is it all just numbers ? Do any of the numbers they claim as inputs and outputs for NST's mean anything at all ? Or not ? (NST's are center tapped too I think by the way).

Strange questions i know and i don't expect any answers that make sense. So i'm resigned to making my own sense of things.



P.S. If none of the NST manufacturers can measure the output of thier NST's correctly, or if they can, but Ohms "Law" does not work to calculate the power output from Volts x Amps, then what chance do we have to prove any OU if it were possible ?
.
To me it looks like none. No chance.

If we can solve the anomaly of the NST "claimed" output's I think it would be a major step forward for us all.

..............

"Logic is the begining of wisdom, not the end !"

Spock

[Farmhand]

Check out these two Tesla lights, the left one looks like a CFL and the right one looks like maybe an arc lamp. Anyway it's the left one I'm interested in, it has a simple coil made from aluminium wire but it is inside a second sealed part of the tube. Maybe we could modify CFL's or normal fluro's with coils to make them brighter with a certain "character" of currents. Maybe make them more inductive or resistive than capacitive or something funny like that. Or even more resonant. Good for wireless lighting of them too maybe, as well as inductive.



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Maybe we could even design and get some custom made ! To try.

Cheers

[Farmhand]

Hi all, I somehow ended up at overunity.com while researching and found something interesting in this thread. See the video's below.
Selfrunning Free Energy devices up to 5 KW from Tariel Kapanadze

Check out these video's, at 2:50 mins in the video look at the MRI transmiter/receiver coil he pulls out of the centre of the coil stack used in the MRI Machine. Wow.
Introductory NMR & MRI: Video 03: How the Terranova-MRI works - YouTube

And in this video he talks about some very interesting stuff.
Introductory NMR & MRI: Video 09-1: Introduction to k-space - YouTube

I'm going to watch all of this guys video's to see what I can glean from them. I hope some others will watch them too, when he pulled out the coil the hairs on the back of my neck stood on end. Hahaha



P.S. and I found this in the OU thread too.
DSpace@MIT : Wireless power transmission utilizing a phased array of Tesla coils

..

[Farmhand]

Hi all, I got a better result with the Egyptian snake light thing. I found if I run the wire from the center tap of the device's secondaries through the primary an old coil I had and then just end it with a fluro then just connect the bottom of that coils secondary to a ground plane or the earth and put a neon on the top, what happens is it create's a high voltage at the top of that coil then when the fluro is approached to that it gets really bright like it does when I hold it to the device HV terminal. Wow cool.

It's a bit brighter with an actual ground connection to the bottom of the coil not much though.

Here are the pics. This is how it is setup.


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Piccy


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Seems the neons might help. Oh and I used double insulated wire to the second coil.

[dR-Green]

Remember if you buy an ignition coil be sure not to get one with a resistor in it, mine has a resistor and it retards the operation for what we want I think.

I have a circuit for a dual ignition coil serious HV output, like as in opposing HV output one up from zero one down in phase or alternating. Or also for combining the output of both in parallel out of phase or in phase. Skys the limit. For now... Maybe I should buy a "matched pair" of ignition coils so I can build it. Hmmm, yes I think I will.

Cheers

How would you know if it has a resistor in before you buy it? I'm going to have to use ebay, I was thinking about the Lucas ones. Any idea if the pricing is relevant or if it's just completely made up? I don't see why the more expensive cars should have more expensive ignition coils except for the fact they just feel like charging more.

That CFL looking thing is interesting. I have a ready made coil here and just the glass bit of a CFL and it all looks like it's been specifically designed for that patent image I'll put them together and see what happens.

I like the sound of that dual ignition coil circuit It looks like I need more power and some modifications here...

I tried one last experiment before bed last night, and lo and behold the webcam is recording video. This is the first time I've tried it since these changes, so I don't know if the cause of the disruption is related to the transistors, the magnet in the spark gap, or the helical coils, or a combination of these things.

Either way, I managed to get this filmed. I also demonstrate the neon across the emitter and collector illuminating when the spark gap gets too big. The bulb gets dimmer just before that point because the bulb holder is still arcing despite putting a rubber grommet inside to try and insulate it. So many things to work around here. With the 555 circuit frequency and resistances settings in the video the circuit is drawing about 600mA. I use the fluorescent at the end to show how the bulb's brightness isn't affected. The receiver coil isn't used here.

Tesla Flat Spiral Coil Experiment-01 - YouTube

[Farmhand]

Hi dR, Usually a coil with a resistor in it will have an "R" in the part number. Unfortunately "R" is not for racing. Which is kinda the impression I first had.

My ignition coil is a GT40R not sure what brand they are. It still works but at lower power it just seems to stop working. If I try to use a spark plug also with a resistor in it, it won't work well at all.

600 Ma input is good really, this little setup I just made works from about 400 Ma to 800 Ma with 12 volts input, a single CFL uses more than that

The filament bulb you are lighting is getting fairly bright is it all plasma or is the filament glowing up ? I've been looking for some material to use in place of the bendy MDF but I can't find anything yet. There must be something with uniform grooves in it around here somewhere I can use.

Cheers

[dR-Green]

Hi all, I got a better result with the Egyptian snake light thing. I found if I run the wire from the center tap of the device's secondaries through the primary an old coil I had and then just end it with a fluro then just connect the bottom of that coils secondary to a ground plane or the earth and put a neon on the top, what happens is it create's a high voltage at the top of that coil then when the fluro is approached to that it gets really bright like it does when I hold it to the device HV terminal. Wow cool.

It's a bit brighter with an actual ground connection to the bottom of the coil not much though.

Here are the pics. This is how it is setup.


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Interesting stuff

Thanks for the ignition coil info. I'll have a look out on ebay.

I thought 600mA was quite a lot, relatively speaking. It seems the most the circuit will draw now is about 1.1A, minimum about 60mA. Last night the circuit seemed to draw less as I let it be. At first it was drawing 150mA, then it would slowly drop down to 60mA with exactly the same settings and output. Maybe this has something to do with the capacitors, if I'm just starting after leaving it over night

I'm not getting anything worth any use in the receiving coil yet though, which is why I've been focusing mainly on the filament bulb. I don't think it's quite as bright as it seems in the video Although it is bright enough to make my eyes go funny. There's no plasma there, just the filament glowing. The only plasma is outside the thing

Problems with conventional apparatus - YouTube

I've fixed that problem now though with plenty of glue gun. The grommet I tried inside the bulb holder earlier failed and would have probably caused a small fire if I hadn't stopped and wondered how come the bulb isn't lighting any more I'm still unable to get more brightness because the neon across the transistor keeps coming on, ever since I put the magnet in the spark gap. And it's a lot more screechy with the magnet in. So I will have to make an improved spark gap, with adjustable magnet so then I can move it towards either end of the the spark gap to have more control over it. Based on this guy's design which seems a nice finely adjustable gap

Adjustable Spark Gap - YouTube

Maybe the best option instead of the bendy MDF is to just cut notches yourself, preferably using a thick(ish) rotary blade. Does the Dremel type thing have thick blades? Maybe it seems a lot of work to do all the measuring, but then so is working with the delicate bendy MDF I think. If you do manage to get some, you'll find out why I'm recommending here to cut a few spare pieces I'm envisioning bigger coils which I'm not sure the bendy MDF will be big enough to hold the wires, so I might just use strips of pine. To save measuring, Peter and his gang in the video used rulers/meter sticks so it's already measured. If you can find plenty of cheap wooden or plastic ones.

[dR-Green]

I don't understand how the outer/earthed end of the secondary is supposed to be the output. The HV is on the inside, and so was whatever power I managed to make the filament glow a tiny bit orange with through one wire, there's no streamers or glowing of the filament on the outer end It's as if my coil is the wrong polarity, but it makes no difference which way round I connect the primary. Although I know the inside is supposed to be the higher voltage due to the tighter turns, so again I don't get how the output is the outer end. If it's actually earthed then it won't even light a fluorescent. It's all on the inside

[Farmhand]

I don't understand how the outer/earthed end of the secondary is supposed to be the output. The HV is on the inside, and so was whatever power I managed to make the filament glow a tiny bit orange with through one wire, there's no streamers or glowing of the filament on the outer end It's as if my coil is the wrong polarity, but it makes no difference which way round I connect the primary. Although I know the inside is supposed to be the higher voltage due to the tighter turns, so again I don't get how the output is the outer end. If it's actually earthed then it won't even light a fluorescent. It's all on the inside

Hi dR, the outer end of the secondary is the ground connection and the inner end is the HV, the idea is that the HV is a long way from the ground connection and primary and there is only a small voltage difference between turns.

Try connecting the outer end of the transmitter secondary to the outer end of the receiver coil secondary to act instead of the ground. Then put a terminal on each inner end of the two coils and put a bridge rectifyer on the (few turns coil) or the opposite primary whatever (of the receiver) then the second coil will talk back to the transmitter, it should work better.

To save confusion I call the primaries, Coil "C" the secondaries, coil "A" and the extra coils, are coil "B" as Tesla does in the Magnifyer patent. So you're spirals would have coil "C" the primaries, and coil "A" the secondaries. This way it is less confusing when the receiver coils have opposite function to the transmitter coils.

You're secondaries need a reference point to work from and if you don't have a radio frequency ground stake it might not work as well as the other coil as a reference.

My spark gapped coils I used in a couple of video's seemed to have reverse polarity too, the arc seemed to go from the bottom of the coil to the top. A bit strange but it might be normal. With my transmitter receiver (magnifyer) setup it will light fluro's from the conneting wire between the two coils just like the Snake light device as well as from the terminals. Pretty much both the same thing really.

I hope I understood you correctly, and this helps. If I missunderstood please let me know.

Cheers

[mbrownn]

I don't understand how the outer/earthed end of the secondary is supposed to be the output. The HV is on the inside, and so was whatever power I managed to make the filament glow a tiny bit orange with through one wire, there's no streamers or glowing of the filament on the outer end It's as if my coil is the wrong polarity, but it makes no difference which way round I connect the primary. Although I know the inside is supposed to be the higher voltage due to the tighter turns, so again I don't get how the output is the outer end. If it's actually earthed then it won't even light a fluorescent. It's all on the inside

I could be wrong but, think about what you are doing, you are separating the charges. The greatest output will be the two points of highest potential difference and may not be always at the ends of a coil. A lot depends upon the location of the primary.

Ignition coils are good at what they do but they are fixed in their geometry

[dR-Green]

Try connecting the outer end of the transmitter secondary to the outer end of the receiver coil secondary to act instead of the ground. Then put a terminal on each inner end of the two coils and put a bridge rectifyer on the (few turns coil) or the opposite primary whatever (of the receiver) then the second coil will talk back to the transmitter, it should work better.

Thanks for the reply. I've tried a couple of things, but haven't tried the rectifier yet. I tried a voltmeter across it (receiver coil A? The big winding) a couple of days ago and got 0.02v out of it I can get a fluorescent to light a bit when it's put between the both coils like you did, but there's not much beyond 0.02v in the receiver. I'm still using neon bulbs as the centre terminal though so I'll have to convert my toilet cistern floats shortly. Off to the shop to buy a soldering iron and supplies for making the spark gap Mk2 now

[dR-Green]

I could be wrong but, think about what you are doing, you are separating the charges. The greatest output will be the two points of highest potential difference and may not be always at the ends of a coil. A lot depends upon the location of the primary.

Ignition coils are good at what they do but they are fixed in their geometry

Good point, but I'm talking about the flat spiral coils here. I'm trying to replicate Eric Dollard's transmitter/receiver experiment basically

I don't know if it's due to an inadequate input as well because it's my first HV adventure and the first real test of the coils etc etc. So it's hard to figure out what the cause is without changing parts. And my setup isn't really suitable (safe and spacious) enough to be changing my power source for a 8kV NST, so that's not really an option at the moment. So I could just be wasting my time with the 555 circuit driving it, I don't know.

[dR-Green]

I just got 2 of these delivered

Ford Lucas Gold Sports Ignition Coil DLB105 | eBay

Sports non ballast coil

I assumed they DON'T have a resistor inside them based on what I could find out. But now I'm looking at others, I'm getting more confused with the poor explanations.

Look at this:

Lucas DLB110 / DLB102 sports ignition coil NEW GENUINE | eBay

lucas DLB110 sports ignition coil

12 volt

for use with ballast resistor

for use without ballast resistor use DLB105

lucas DLB105 sport ignition coil fits ROVER MINI | eBay

lucas DLB105 sport ignition coil

12 volt

without ballast resistor

2 x screw terminals

for the version with use with a ballast resistor use DLB110

So just to clarify, I have 2x DLB105... Can anyone tell me what's what here, because the more I read it the more confused I'm getting here.

Does "non ballast coil" mean that you don't need an external ballast because there is internal ballast, or does it mean it doesn't have an internal ballast?

Does the DLB105 have a resistor in it or not?!

[edit] I suppose the 3 ohm primary in the DLB105 and 1.6 ohm DLB110 answers the question