Tesla's Magnifying Transmitter "Replications"

[Farmhand]

Hi dR, My primary is 1.3 ohms so it appears mine has no resistor after all and they label them kind of back to front.

I think it looks like, "for use with a ballast resistor" means it doesn't already have one and "for use without a ballast resistor" seems to mean it already has one so no need to use an external one. Darnit ! 3 ohms is not a lot though must be only a 1.5 ohm resistor, I have to admitt I was fairly ignorant about these ballast resistors even though i've done a lot of working on cars, I just never took any notice.

Here is a link to the coil I have,
GT40R BOSCH IGNITION COIL BALLAST RESISTOR | eBay

OK I just found one with it written on the coil, " for use with external ballast resistor" The key word being external.
Lucas ignition coil DLJ-101 | eBay
EDIT: if I take postage into account I can get 2 Lucas coils for the same price as one Bosch GT40. Red paint must be more expensive than black paint.

I should have checked this out for my own benifit long ago, I appologise fully for not checking it out better sooner.

Cheers

[dR-Green]

Well this is quite pathetic I'm having a lot of trouble getting it to do anything at all with a capacitor across the output. I've had to bypass the opto and still have a darlington pair driving it just to get anything at all. I just got to the point where I had a decent spark (decent for these coils so far) without the capacitor, and it was causing my speakers to produce a rumbling sound which I haven't experienced before, so I put the cap on, and back to a pathetic spark again. More like a tiny speck of plasma. Using 500mA-2A. But more input power doesn't necessarily produce a better output, if there's anything coming out at all.

Maybe 1 amp average input isn't a lot/enough for a decent spark, but compared to the flyback I was using the ignition coil is useless.

But I'm getting much better sparks when I'm connecting and disconnecting the power supply than the 555 driver is doing. So I might try lowering the frequency to see what happens.

No worries Farmhand I'm sure they can be used for something, I just need to figure out how to make them work

[Farmhand]

Yes that is a downer, maybe you could re-sell them. A pain, I know but you could get you're money back. I was lucky to spot the coil with the writing on it to work it out.

What size cap ? A standard condenser usually works ok. Are you charging High voltage caps with the ignition coil secondary to cause the Spark gap to fire ?

I don't think the ignition coil or flyback needs to be a really high frequency as long as it can fill the HV caps good enough, though I found the tesla coil can give different output by tuning the frequency of the ignition coil.

I got fairly good results with a spark plug spark gap using only a few Khz.

Cheers

[dR-Green]

But I'm getting much better sparks when I'm connecting and disconnecting the power supply than the 555 driver is doing. So I might try lowering the frequency to see what happens.

By that I mean the spark gap is too big to spark while the 555 is running, but I get sparks when I connect and disconnect the power supply. So it looks like the coil is capable of more, just the driver isn't getting the most out of the coil yet.

I've lowered the frequency a bit and it's a bit better. A strange thing happened earlier though, I haven't been paying attention to the incandescent bulb that's connected across the spiral coil secondary because it's all been too pathetic, but I suddenly noticed it was glowing a bit. A fluorescent wouldn't light at the centre of the spiral coil, nor on the outside, but it was lighting at the crocodile clip connecting to the bulb.

At the moment I'm getting the bulb to do something, and I'm playing with small capacitors across the ignition coil primary. So far 1uF makes it worse than 0.5uF, but 0.5uF is better than nothing, so I'll fiddle a bit more.

What size cap ? A standard condenser usually works ok. Are you charging High voltage caps with the ignition coil secondary to cause the Spark gap to fire ?

680pF 20kV (x4 at hand, but 2 are reserved for the receiver coil). And yes, that's the idea

[dR-Green]

I've popped my power supply

I'd may as well just give it up and use the NST or laser power supplies.

[Farmhand]

My standard condenser for the ignition coil primary is about 180nF . 0.5 uf works ok with it.

As far as HV caps go I only have 3800 pF - 4000 v ones, so I use them in paralleled-series strings. They seem to work ok though. If you're interested I'll send you 20 or so, just let me know by PM or something, I can send them free for you. I got them cheap and have a few more than I'll ever need.

Can you use taps on the primary to shorten it's length a bit ?

This is strange, but strange is good.

I've lowered the frequency a bit and it's a bit better. A strange thing happened earlier though, I haven't been paying attention to the incandescent bulb that's connected across the spiral coil secondary because it's all been too pathetic, but I suddenly noticed it was glowing a bit. A fluorescent wouldn't light at the centre of the spiral coil, nor on the outside, but it was lighting at the crocodile clip connecting to the bulb.

[dR-Green]

Hi Farmhand. Thanks for your kind offer

I'm not sure, but I think I broke my power supply by not having a capacitor across the input (or the PSU output). Apparently the 555 causes problems with circuits that have other ICs and a capacitor is recommended, so I'm assuming my switched mode power supply didn't like it. The LED indicator is off, and on the 12v setting it's putting out 4.something volts

On the plus side, also maybe a bit of mind trickery since I know that piece of information, the circuit seems to be a lot more stable with a battery powering it. With the ignition coil, I'm lighting the filament bulb to quite a decent brightness at 800mA input. But I've slowed the 555 down to 1.8-1.9kHz. Without putting in higher resistances because I kept increasing it and this is as far as I got, the sound of the spark gap making a constant pitch was the loudest and the bulb was brightest at that frequency, with 800mA draw from my 675mA C20 batteries. So that's the extent of the "tuning" so far.

[edit] There's also HV all over the circuit. I get shocks through the wires going to the base resistance pot. The other pots/carbon presets that don't have a plastic handle and need to be turned with a screwdriver produce sparks and the frequency increases when they are touched with a metal screwdriver.

Can you use taps on the primary to shorten it's length a bit ?

Not really because it's insulated magnet wire. Plus there's only 2 turns there, and the copper weight is matched with the secondary. So I'd like to get the power supply side of it sorted before I go fiddling with any of that, seeing as the coil is all meant to be tuned already, with the 2 turn primary and 2 turns on top of each other in the secondary.

On the subject of HV, I got this book a couple of years ago after my father's uncle. I've been meaning to see if it was online for a while because I was thinking of scanning it and sharing it on this forum, but someone's already done it So it could be of interest here

High Voltage Physics : L. Jacob : Free Download & Streaming : Internet Archive

Also this is a part of a conversation with Tom Brown back in 2008 on the subject of Schauberger and Tesla etc

Nice to see this old video of mine posted here, thanks! What I see as most important about Schauberger's work is that what he defined as implosive natural energies can be seen as a distinct polar opposite to the explosive technologies extant in our decaying society. All perceptive reality manifests as polarities. Read Man or Matter by Ernst Lehrs, still in print but downloadable here: http://explorationscience.org/EtherPhysics.htm

What Telsa was doing with the spark gaps & other circuit interruptors (notice that most of his patents were for these devices!) was to create a novel third type of electricity: Impulse Electricity. So there is DC, AC and Impulse... In Eric Dollard's tesla experiments at the Integratron in the mid-80's it became obvious that while we were viewing a 'discharge' from the top of the magnifying transmitter, there was actually an implosive event happening. While observing an electrical spark emanating from the top of the coil we were measuring 5 radio frequency amperes flowing INTO ground! Eric's position was that there was no electron flow, but rather a collapsing of lines of force in space itself, which collapsed in Golden Ratio patterns with the proper type of electricity (just as we see in living beings)..

Eric's modern rediscovery and experimental proof of Tesla's real secrets was based on his understanding of Bach's contrapuntal music... all natural space-counterspace interaction.

So from the perspective of the Great Work, the awareness of Tesla's impulse electricity is not just about free energy (which I used to say would only give us crack gangs on the moon in our present stage of collective consciousness), but encompasses our society's use and abuse of the natural forces. Ernst Lehrs, in Man or Matter, posits that electricity is nothing more than the human volitional force. If we are to understand and transmute our inner forces we can't be squandering them as we do at present.

PS I just did a quick search for "bendy MDF Australia" and found these, dunno if they'll be of any use

Flexible MDF - Forums - Mobile Electronics AU

The Dalek Builders' Guild

And US Amazon, dunno about Australia

Amazon.com: 1/4'' Neatform Bendy MDF Sheet: Home Improvement

And I just tried ebay but the "intelligent" search crap insists that I should be searching for "platform" women's shoes instead of "neatform"

[Farmhand]

Hi dR, Yes you'e right you won't need taps on the primary. Oh and I understand now about you're question from a few post's ago

I don't understand how the outer/earthed end of the secondary is supposed to be the output. The HV is on the inside, and so was whatever power I managed to make the filament glow a tiny bit orange with through one wire, there's no streamers or glowing of the filament on the outer end It's as if my coil is the wrong polarity, but it makes no difference which way round I connect the primary. Although I know the inside is supposed to be the higher voltage due to the tighter turns, so again I don't get how the output is the outer end. If it's actually earthed then it won't even light a fluorescent. It's all on the inside

My understanding is that there are currents back and forth between the transmitter and receiver through the ground or ground wire from the outer end of the secondaries ( the wire that connects them ) if a load is placed in there like a bulb it will light up if there are currents there. However the HV is at the Terminals connected to the center end of the secondary, thats the cool thing, the bottom of the coils if grounded are 0 volts or close but there is current. It will work if the coils are joined by the outer ends through a wire or through the ground if the frequency is agreeable and the ground connections good enough. That's why we don't want the Terminals to leak energy because we want to keep vibrating it to cause currents. I think.

Bummer about you're PSU. Batteries are fairly stable especially big one's.

I'm messing about with my setup today and I added a fine frequency control knob (5K pot) and wired the variable tuning caps onto the transmitter and receiver, I also wound a new 10 turn primary for the transmitter.

Seems to be working very well even with the leaky terminals I still have. I can get 40 volts plus into caps at the receiver while powering 4x5mm LED's, it uses about 1 Amp at 12.5 volts to do that. And I can tune the voltage up and down at the receiver as well as the transmitter by the turn of a knob.

I'm charging a 7 Ah battery from it now. When I connect the battery to charge through a separate FWBR than the LED's the input drops to 0.5 Amp at the transmitter hahaha, but the voltage in the LED's cap drops to about 22 volts.

I'll make a video tonight I hope.



P.S. I haven't checked the links you gave yet will do though, thanks.

Yep battery is nearly charged, it was only slightly drained but the receiver topped it up and is holding it at 14.8 volts now using 6 watts to run the whole setup. I wonder what will happen if I runn some cables back across and charge the source battery from the receiver while lighting lights.

[dR-Green]

Sounding good What do you mean by leaky terminals?

The only thing I don't like about using batteries is that if there's an opportunity to break your components, they'll take it.

I wonder what will happen if I runn some cables back across and charge the source battery from the receiver while lighting lights

I've been having thoughts along similar lines since noticing the neon across the emitter and collector coming on, and the fact something's wirelessly affecting the SSG.

Since I got a relatively stable circuit on the go, I thought I'd do a quick test to compare the coils. Using both ignition coils in parallel which I forgot to mention earlier. When I changed to the helical coil the spark gap turned from blue to a green colour The incandescent bulb doesn't want to do anything in a closed loop across the helical coil, but it will glow a TINY bit through an arc. And as you can see the wireless effect is better with the helical coil, but I don't have any big metal terminal on the helical coil so that will have to wait for a future test. [edit] I mean the spiral coil Also the input is pretty much the same on both coils.

Tesla Spiral Coil Vs Helical Coil - YouTube

[Farmhand]

Sounding good What do you mean by leaky terminals?

I just mean that my toroids terminals on my transmitter and receiver are crumply and bleed off energy thereby wasting some energy.

And continuing from my last post I left out, that it's the currents back and forth between the Terminals of the two coils and through the ground, that cause there to be AC at the output coil of the receiver. With a transmitter receiver setup the load should be at the output coil "C" of the receiver. But a load can also be run between the two coils "ground" connections. A bulb there demonstratesthe currents.

I've been trying some small bulbs there and they light up while the load at the receiver still gets it's power. They will work through resistors there aswell to simulate ground resistance. But distance is another thing. I don't have suitable long wire yet for longer distances.

Cheers.

Oh cool vid, spark gaps are very noisy, wow, sometimes the spark gap was quiet, kinda.

[dR-Green]

My understanding is that there are currents back and forth between the transmitter and receiver through the ground or ground wire from the outer end of the secondaries ( the wire that connects them ) if a load is placed in there like a bulb it will light up if there are currents there. However the HV is at the Terminals connected to the center end of the secondary, thats the cool thing, the bottom of the coils if grounded are 0 volts or close but there is current. It will work if the coils are joined by the outer ends through a wire or through the ground if the frequency is agreeable and the ground connections good enough. That's why we don't want the Terminals to leak energy because we want to keep vibrating it to cause currents. I think.

Hehe. I think I'll just have to play around with it and realise it first hand I understand the principle and what you said has helped, but I can only assume I'm not getting anywhere near enough power into my coils to be seeing the effect. I'm basically doing two different things at once here, trying to figure out the 555 and driving coils and all that, and then also trying to do things with the Tesla coils, so it's all over the place. There's no consistency to the setup because I haven't even got the input side of it worked out yet.

I'm messing about with my setup today and I added a fine frequency control knob (5K pot) and wired the variable tuning caps onto the transmitter and receiver, I also wound a new 10 turn primary for the transmitter.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if we used wire of a specific length, and basically tuned the coil to one set frequency that we've deliberately aimed for, would it not need any frequency adjusting on the input? Shouldn't it be perfectly tuned, and shouldn't the best results be at that fixed frequency?

If you were to do this, would it be the primary that's cut to a certain length, the secondary, or both?

How about a specific length of primary, a resonant length of secondary, along with matched copper volume of primary and secondary

I've been trying some small bulbs there and they light up while the load at the receiver still gets it's power. They will work through resistors there aswell to simulate ground resistance. But distance is another thing. I don't have suitable long wire yet for longer distances.

What kind of bulbs have you been trying? When I'm using the incandescent (as in the videos) I have it across the secondary of the transmitter. Because at the moment it's not a transmitter and receiver setup. I'm back to the low power input issue as far as lighting incandescents between the two coils goes.

I wonder what's going on in what I demonstrate in that last video though. Both the spiral coil and helical coil use 800mA input, but the helical coil won't light the incandescent, but it seems to be a higher voltage output. The spiral coil apparently outputs more "current" and less voltage, but the strange thing is that the input doesn't change between both coils and whether the bulb is lit or not. So where's my 800mA going with the helical coil, out to the surrounding space through the topload? If that's true then it would mean the helical coil wastes a lot more energy. It appears to just be available in the surrounding space if you want to put a fluorescent somewhere near it. I think I'll go make a terminal for the spiral coil now and find out some more

Oh cool vid, spark gaps are very noisy, wow, sometimes the spark gap was quiet, kinda.

It's not too noisy but there's not much power going through it either. It gets quieter when it's a smaller gap. The best filament lighting is when the spark is making that unstable sound, I assume the arc is breaking itself from the caps being discharged. It keeps cutting out because it's right at the verge of being close enough, and then it's not close enough due to my unfinished contraption and I have to start it up again.

[Farmhand]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if we used wire of a specific length, and basically tuned the coil to one set frequency that we've deliberately aimed for, would it not need any frequency adjusting on the input? Shouldn't it be perfectly tuned, and shouldn't the best results be at that fixed frequency?

That will work but only if a spark gap is used as far as I know. Because I am pulsing with solid state at the actual resonant frequency of the Secondary My setup delivers a pulse to the primary every single cycle unlike a spark gap which may only fire at 1/4 of the resonant frequency of the secondary. But unlike a spark gap there are no miss fire's to worry about or timing issues.

Also a ground connected transmitter can be used/tuned on it's own because it resonate's with the ground but if not ground connected, two coils joined will resonate, My transmitter coil won't tune without the other coil connected or connected to ground or some other form of a very large capacity, the earth is a huge capacitor ball the termination is a very small one.

What kind of bulbs have you been trying? When I'm using the incandescent (as in the videos) I have it across the secondary of the transmitter. Because at the moment it's not a transmitter and receiver setup. I'm back to the low power input issue as far as lighting incandescents between the two coils goes.

I should have said the lights just glow there, I'm not using enough power to light much else usefully there except fluro's if the coils bottoms are not grounded and just connected together. I just do it so there is some kind of resistance there, When I get a 1K power resistor I'll try that.

I wonder what's going on in what I demonstrate in that last video though. Both the spiral coil and helical coil use 800mA input, but the helical coil won't light the incandescent, but it seems to be a higher voltage output. The spiral coil apparently outputs more "current" and less voltage, but the strange thing is that the input doesn't change between both coils and whether the bulb is lit or not. So where's my 800mA going with the helical coil, out to the surrounding space through the topload? If that's true then it would mean the helical coil wastes a lot more energy. It appears to just be available in the surrounding space if you want to put a fluorescent somewhere near it. I think I'll go make a terminal for the spiral coil now and find out some more

My guess is that the spiral coils have better natural tuned lengths or the cap you're discharging is better suited to the spirals.. As leakage of the terminals go, higher voltage requires better termination the charge accumulates on the terminal but the curvature prevents leakage much like a Van De-Graff machine's ball. eg. a small smooth curvature say 1 cm diameter might hold say 1000 volts without leakage where as 100 000 volts will breakout from it easily so a 1 meter diameter curvature will hold a lot more charge than a 1 cm one. Any sharp edges will leak off energy (charge). However Tesla states that smaller curvature's can be used as long as they together make up and are part of a larger curvature.

Like the terminal in his patent. You can see the small plates are curved but they all make up a larger curvature.
ELECTRICAL ENERGY - Google Patents


I don't know much about spark gaps really, I've tried to concentrate on solid state. You might find some very helpfull tips in the Don Smith "too good to be true thread" there is a lot of spark gap talk going on there. I do have plans to use spark gaps eventually. It is difficult to take in everything that happens with these setups.

It's not too noisy but there's not much power going through it either. It gets quieter when it's a smaller gap. The best filament lighting is when the spark is making that unstable sound, I assume the arc is breaking itself from the caps being discharged. It keeps cutting out because it's right at the verge of being close enough, and then it's not close enough due to my unfinished contraption and I have to start it up again.

Cheers

[Farmhand]

OK guys, here's the video I made last night, movie producer, director and actor I am not.

Transmitter Update.wmv - YouTube

I keep pointing the camera at the ammeter and saying in the video there is the power draw. But what I mean is times the ammeter reading by the 12.4 volts of the battery to get it.

Cheers

Edit: I just worked out I had the FWBR to the battery charging caps connected "differently" and that's why the voltage on the other cap stayed up over 20 v, I had the DC negative of the LED's FWBR connected to one side of the Battery Charging FWBR, now I connect it to the AC it does drop the LED's supply voltage aswell. Not to worry, it did seem strange. haha on myself.

[Farmhand]

Hi all, I found another improvement to make, I noticed that with the toroid terminal fitting down over the top of the coil it looked like the top 2 inches or so of coil were not doing anything, so I raise the top terminals. Now it works better again, more effeicient and higher voltage developed at the receiver output coil. Testing with a neon on a stick I can see the highest voltage is right at the top of the coil and the outside of the terminals.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I did it by punching a neat little donut out of some compressable but stifflike foam stuff and reattaching the aluminium tube droppers I had on the terminals before. It slips together nice and tight so I can adust it up and down.

If I was going to use really high voltages and there was likely to be streamers breaking out from the top of the coil I would need a metalic conductive "hood" extending out to a larger diameter and hanging down over the outside of the top inch or so of the coil, with slots in it to reduce eddy currents, like it says in the patent. The hood would guide the streamers up to the toroid terminal. But I'm only using 12 volts input, I think I will try the voltage doubler on this setup now too soon. I don't expect any streamers though.

Cheers

[Farmhand]

Hi all, I've got a bit of a voltage issue. Now I have this transmitter setup working better the voltage out of the receiver is too high. And it fluctuates a lot when tuning, its caused me to ruin quite a few LED's, one minute I have 20 volts out of the receiver then I tune a bit and when I look back there is 65 volts and the LED's are goin supanova with smoke coming from the resistor.

I need a way to deal with the fluctuating output and regulate some voltage from it to run loads from a fixed voltage. When I add the voltage doubler to the transmitter input circuit I expect to see in excess of 200 volts "open circuit" from the output coil of the receiver. I will be able to adjust the voltage input from about 22 volts down to the source battery voltage.

But if anyone has any suggestions for a simple way to regulate some voltage, I'm all ears.

Here's a video of what happens with the voltage but usually I am adjusting it at the transmitter this is at the receiver, the output coil AC is rectified into 1400uf of caps and 4 LED's in series are running from the caps, I just changed the LED's from parallel connected to series. They seem brighter now. The transmitter is using about 400 mA at the lower voltage and about 700 mA at the higher voltage how it is set, it can do more. There is a sine wave on the scope the whole time it just gets really big when I tune it.

Resonant Voltage Rise.wmv - YouTube

I forgot to trim the end of the video sorry, last few seconds is unrelated.

And on the matter of caoxial cable. I can get 100 meter rolls and 300 meter rolls of coax but there are different types. Which should i get for transmission cable ?

Cheap one. RG-59
TV Antenna Coax Cable RG 59, 100m+10 F connectors rg59 | eBay

More expensive one. RG-6
RG6 QUAD SHEILD COAX CABLE DIGITAL TV & SAT 305 M BOX | eBay

Cheers