Joule Ringer!

[Jules Tresor]

@ PB : Very good presentation, thanks Now I understand why you got so fast to a finished, ready to replicate device !! Knowledge AND work/life experience !!! Very good You owe us/me nothing, don't worry for that, and thanks for sharing. The saying goes "Those who received a lot, shall be ask a lot" ahahaha I hope your inventions in "free" energy will help many people. Cheers, Jules

[PhysicsProf]

@ PB : Very good presentation, thanks Now I understand why you got so fast to a finished, ready to replicate device !! Knowledge AND work/life experience !!! Very good You owe us/me nothing, don't worry for that, and thanks for sharing. The saying goes "Those who received a lot, shall be ask a lot" ahahaha I hope your inventions in "free" energy will help many people. Cheers, Jules

I agree with Jules -- thanks for sharing, PB!

PB:For reference, I plan then, to use the 7.5w LED and a set of 13w compacts for "line voltage" reference, okay here?
Also, you note to run (off the grid).....do you mean; do the "line voltage" test on an inverter then? I was planning on watt metering the A/C main.

Yes, those would be find for "line voltage" reference -- although I would add a couple of incandescents to check things out further, such as a 40 W and a 75W bulb with known (rated) lumens output.

Re: your second question -- I mean "using the grid", not using an inverter.
But with this caveat -- I noticed that in my rural town, the line voltage varies quite a lot, and so the watts actually used in the incandescents would vary.
Yet the bulbs are rated as x lumens given a certain watts for running the bulb (e.g., 500 lumens for a 40 W bulb running at 40 Watts, not at 44 watts).

In that case, I used watt-meters (a Kill-a-watt meter and the Chinese meter I showed earlier) to determine the Watts actually being used, and I used a dimmer to bring the power consumption of the incandescent to its RATED Watts, then measure the Lux using the light meter. I plugged the watt-meter to the output of the dimmer, this then goes to the incandescent bulb in the light box.

Does that make sense?

This makes for a smallish correction. If the watts ACTUALLY consumed in your bulbs are close to the watts rated for the bulb, I probably would not worry about this small correction. After all, we're looking mostly for RELATIVE changes and fairly large changes in brightness observed in the light-box as we vary the circuit. We're trying to do better than the naked eye -- and be quantitative. (I just like the best precision I can get, I guess -- habit.)

[Lidmotor]

Peanutbutter's "Tuned" Radio Shack transformer circuit

@Peanutbutter & All
I repilcated your simple "Tuned" circuit yesterday using the Radio Shack 12v transformer and it worked great!! Of course I had to play around with it so I started changing cap values and found that I could get good results with just a single .1uf cap across the collector coil. I also messed with the base feed and added a few things there. Very cool and easy circuit using that off-the-shelf 12v transformer. I recommend that people replicate Peanutbutter's circuit EXACTLY and then go from there. It is fun, quick and it works beautifully. My replication would not run CFLs though--- just ran the LEDs great.

Super Joule Ringer 2.0----The Amazing Peanutbutter model - YouTube

Lidmotor

[T-1000]

Super Joule Ringer 2.0----The Amazing Peanutbutter model - YouTube

Lidmotor

@Peanutbutter
Nice idea of making self oscilating LC tank in addition to transistor base timing management!

I still see there 2 remaining things:
1) Entire oscilation to match resonant coil natural resonance timing (N. Tesla way)
2) Match transistor power ON/OFF time when LC tank runs second cycle on BEMF.

It should be not too hard to make such really efficient circuit. Also you need to attach 1 Ohm resistor instead of Ampmeter and put oscilloscope on that resistor so you can measure high frequency RMS amps by Ohms law(Do not trust ampmeters, they're not designed for high frequency measurements).

[totoalas]

Super Joule Ringer Charging with Load 210512

Super Joule Ringer Charging with Load 210512 - YouTube

With 50 to 60 ma Input with led lamps barely lit battery voltage slowly climb up
With leds off it jumped to 13.85 v dc Transistor warm with cold transformer / resistor Thanks to Peanu tbutter for the caps will add Lidmotors led indication next

totoalas
Super Joule Ringer Lighting DC vs AC 210512 - YouTube

Note
for 8 pcs 5 watts @250 ma start time 1800 pm 13 v end time 1000 am 12.13 v dc sla battery 7 ah charged by 5 w solar panel

[Peanutbutter29]

I'll try to cover a few things and hopefully not be too long. First, thanks again for the good comments! I'm glad replications are working so far too!! Outside verification is key, I feel.

okay,
@ PhysicsProf, gotcha. I wondered how you adjusted for proper wattage, nice! So, then last question; Triac or Variac? Prolly Variac to not chop?

@T1000, probably the best single sentence to describe what's going on in the end; Good perception!

For your number 1, Well, yes and no. I'll try to explain a bit below.
For number 2; that's "partly" what the tuning is doing already.

@ Lidmotor. Great video and changes! I like the indicator lights for "operational" as well as your base current. That will be an excellent thing for helping tuning! I highly encourage playing around with these for sure!

A couple of notes just mainly info for everyone. With the base current, that is limited by the 220 ohm to 54ma@12v max; so about 640mw maximum, which is "typically" a small fraction of total. Having resistor at the maximum range the current would be negligible, so similar to a "no base tie".
I talked in one explanation video (not still on) mainly about the transistor and how the potentiometer is allowing a bias voltage to the base. This, was mainly to exemplify how a variation of R can increase or reduce (in the end); how much energy is required by the secondary to drive the base. Also, then it will relate to voltage drop ratio of the coil to "base-collector".
So, i tend to visualize the potentiometer settings in terms of a "still negative bias"; e.g. high resistance. Or a "positive bias" with low resistance; e.g. voltage to base is greater than the negative value of the base with no tie at X volts. Now there is a theoretical "zero bias" state, but that can be harder to know/ find; as they tend to "pop" into the other modes.

Putting this together then, I showed the latest 1.2 versions (I think on both vids) how then the "negative bias" drew low current and lit bulbs. This was 9 bulbs @ 12v and 200ma; but I noted I prefer another mode; which is more "positive". As I passed the "zero bias" point (starting running at 200ma) you see it "pop" into the positive mode. I noted I preferred right at the edge of this point; as with this coil and load, it was best close to "zero bias".
When final adjusting a "Tuned" system, you'll find it prefers a particular spot for best efficiency; not necessarily lowest draw. With the v1.0 using the large coil, it was run well into the positive bias mode for best output. So, here I would blow a single LED indicator, heh.
Some of this plays into my overall tuning logic, but I prefer more bias to less; in most cases. I will say too, I AM working on a single 120v LED system; but getting high light, low volts and good efficiency is tough. I have a micro system that can run a single pretty well at 12v and 300ma; but I'm not happy yet. I'm shooting for 6v or less and AA draw range.

I want to point out too, I DO feel we will find greater efficiencies with larger bulb numbers as opposed to smaller numbers; regardless these seem to smoke inverters for conversion efficiency, if only for LED's.

Onto another item to point out with the caps in general. From my second improvement for lasersaber video, I talk of frequency control and reinforcement. Also, the video of sparking the model T coil and tuning (not sure many liked), was to give visual reference to some tuning aspects, so I will refer there.
Taking a cap on one side or even 2 caps that are not "tuned", I consider this more reinforcement and frequency as opposed to being "technically" tuned. A single cap can reinforce a primary motion of electrical movement and the same applies with a secondary cap and its' movement. The best way of showing this was on that Model T sparking. In all cases of placing caps on the primary and secondary I altered frequency AND even reduced dissipation at the switch; However, it was not until a specific cap was on both the primary and secondary that I was able to get a wide range of 1 Power Factor through the spark. Also, then the secondary load altered the switch; which is virtually impossible with a model T.

After this here @ lidmotor. With this tranny being 'barely' tunable already; I would doubt a good match can be found for 1 bulb with the Radio shack 12v. So, what you've done is probably the best case for a single bulb as you want. However if you run multiples I would recommend trying to find a good secondary cap; with that system and a lot of bulbs you will probably get some heating. Though, if you stay negative biased your current will be low, but at reduced output.

I haven't really covered T1000's number 1 point yet, but this got long, sigh. I believe I covered somethings that can help with "my perception" related to bias and caps. I DO want to explain more what I'm doing / looking for; though I'm having trouble thinking of how to easily describe it. I can say what to look for easier than explain what's in my head, lol.

I guess I can point out a couple things and introduce terms as I'm using them. First, I have not yet (don't believe) mentioned resonance and I have done that specifically. We do NOT want "tank" resonance necessarily with either the primary or the secondary; independently. Primarily because current circulation would be greatest IN the circuit at that point; which is not what I'm looking for. I want that power OUT of the "tanks".
So, I do not consider this all resonance; nor do I feel it even can be, as oscillation of either single coil cannot occur "most technically". This being related to open / short apparent to the coils caused by the transistor.
Since we do still have 2 coils changing states of connection, I pretty much consider this an oscillation in all cases, both tuned or not. This is why I refer to this last version without charge, as "tuned" and not resonance. So, a tuned oscillation.

I suppose @ T1000, it's funny you mentioned Tesla; as I'd considered him a lot with this experience. I have the "what would Tesla do" scenario for certain things. Since, this is about as counter-intuitive as you can get to what he spoke of.
Although, transistors kill any hope of undampened oscillations as he preferred; I still think he could make magic if he had modern chips. I did spend a couple days before tuning, just chewing on the circuit and visualizing the operation. These, being clamped, coupled, bound, 100% dampened and all the bad things; how could I find benefit from this still oscillatory movement?
Honestly it was still Tesla's work and me trying to relate how "he" would take advantage of this. I decided instead of trying to eliminate dampening, why not embrace it. My take off then was from Tesla's ball lightning research that Corum and Corum later replicated. This ended up being related to my initial logic for tuning.

OMW, this is long I'm very sorry about that. I will wrap things up here, but hopefully that gives some help with what I'm doing some. Again, I need to put together a single explanation as well.

Hope this helps,
Thanks PB

@ Lidmotor, I forgot about the compact. The tuned circuit will barely get a compact to "pop" in at 12v. You need to have the resistor at the Lowest setting (220 ohm) or it will not start. I also did notice a couple times playing, that if I rose my supply fast; it also didn't "pop" in. However, the first commented replicator on the Tuned video said he had a compact running, but not LED's. So the low resistor setting should be fine.

[PhysicsProf]

Thanks for all the pointers, peanutbutter (and all!)
I use a Variac my friend; also have used a simple dimmer-switch (slider model).

@Peanutbutter & All
I repilcated your simple "Tuned" circuit yesterday using the Radio Shack 12v transformer and it worked great!! Of course I had to play around with it so I started changing cap values and found that I could get good results with just a single .1uf cap across the collector coil. I also messed with the base feed and added a few things there. Very cool and easy circuit using that off-the-shelf 12v transformer. I recommend that people replicate Peanutbutter's circuit EXACTLY and then go from there. It is fun, quick and it works beautifully. My replication would not run CFLs though--- just ran the LEDs great.

Super Joule Ringer 2.0----The Amazing Peanutbutter model - YouTube

Lidmotor

Great vid, Lidmotor -- motivating! and I accept the challenge.
Quick question for you or Peanutbutter (or someone) --

WHICH radio shack 12V Xformer did you use? I see one for 120V to 12V @ 450 mA -- is that it? or the one for 120V to 12.6V @ 3A?

Thanks!

[Lidmotor]

Radio Shack transformer

Great vid, Lidmotor -- motivating! and I accept the challenge.
Quick question for you or Peanutbutter (or someone) --

WHICH radio shack 12V Xformer did you use? I see one for 120V to 12V @ 450 mA -- is that it? or the one for 120V to 12.6V @ 3A?

Thanks!

I used the 3 amp one that I had on hand and it is what Peanutbutter used. I think that others will also work. I might try this on a 9v transformer and see what happens.

@Peanutbutter
I was very surprised that you describe this as a NOT a resonant circuit. The way that you describe it as a " tuned oscillator"makes sense though. Very interesting. Whatever---it gets the job done.

Cheers,

Lidmotor

[Peanutbutter29]

Transformer models for SJRC v1.2 and SJR 2.0 "tuned"

heck, who needs model numbers?! ......Sorry bout that .

SJR 2.0 "tuned"
Model: 273-1511
12.6V CT 3.0A Chassis-Mount Transformer with Leads - RadioShack.com

SJRC v1.2
Model: 273-1512
25.2V CT 2.0A Heavy-Duty Chassis-Mount Transformer with Lead - RadioShack.com

[Jules Tresor]

Great tiny light-box !

Thanks Pbutter for this video of an affordable light meter Thank you for the comments and support!! A little something I hope proves useful. - YouTube
As Lasersaber and PhysicProf say, it's essential for any efficiency testing in a lighting circuit. Using this tiny solar cell, that could also come from a solar powered calculator, as alternative to a Lux meter, makes such a testing device affordable by anyone and anywhere !!! Very smart indeed

[PhysicsProf]

OK -- found Peanutbutter's vid with the detail -- it's the 12.6V 3A xformer.

Thanks for the informative vids and the work especially the tuning hints -- Peanutbutter and also Lidmotor and Lasersaber! Fun stuff!

[Peanutbutter29]

sorry to post again

Poop, didn't wanna post again, but I should clarify some.

First though, ty Jules! Also, good idea with calc solar!

@ Lidmotor about resonance. yes, I was referring to the coil itself. I have stated in the videos that I believe the "apparent" pulse rate, a meter shows, should be a multiple of 60 (50 for UK). I suppose you could "loosely" say we are resonating with the load then, but the low duty tuned (20%) makes this tough to happen fully. With the coil itself we do not want anywhere near the 600hz-2khz of these, otherwise the Tank would "steal" power from the bulbs. This is because the impedance of the tank becomes lower than the load. E.G highest current at resonance - not good. For similar reasons we don't want the primary and secondary LC's to match either.

Now apply how Tesla found ball lighting from his coils and you know why my caps are backwards from normal in terms of size.

Hope this helps
PB

[totoalas]

a DIY Lightmeter THANK YOU

Your caps did reduced my set up current from 360 mA to a 260 Ma which is needed on Solar Night lighting using 5 watts solar panel and an sla 12 v 7aH battery from 6 pm to 1- am steady brightness 13 v start and end 12.13 v for 8 pcs 5 watts led SIMPLY AMAZING

totoalas

[Jules Tresor]

transformer core material ?

Hi guys, can I ask what the cores of the Radioshack transformers are made of ? Laminated steel or Ferrite ? (couldn't find the answer on their website) Thanks, Jules

[Slider2732]

A question here too -

@Lidmotor, great idea to use Dr. Stiffler's method in the circuit.
I've had to use another transformer when replicating and it may be where my trouble is. The circuit shows the current changing, via the LED, but a 13W CFL or a 2.5W LOA, or a 2W LOA only flash on power connection.
I've tried a bunch of different caps and it seems to be a lack of Base continuity...the transistor fires great, the flashes (lighting of bulbs) being very bright at 12V. But, the bulb goes straight out again. As I say, the LED can stay on and show the current, if the power is left connected, as per your video. Transistor is a TIP117 PNP Darlington, with all appropriate connections reversed. It would seem that there is a ton of something there, which is why there's confusion as to the source of the problem.
Just wondering if you experienced such a thing in your testing ?


Edit. On inadvertently touching the Positive supply to the transistor case and with Emitter not connected, the circuit behaved in the same way, flashing the light ! Trying the same thing again, the LED to show current could be dimmed or brightened in the same way too. I've no idea how that could happen.