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You might try to change the primary windings by adding more turns, to see what happens. Or a resistor on the base. See if you can light a 50 watt incandescent along with the led bulb, sometimes it help to keep the transistor running cooler.
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Lowest I can go on this is 6 volt and 300 ma. So 1.8 watts. ..decent light. My primary is short I think , I drove with 12volt 1.5 amps , I think it took all the watts 7.5 and made transistor hot, brightness was more than what bulb can give.. How can I control milliamperes to the circuit .?
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@ Hello All:
Although there are several charge controllers at this price or even cheaper, this one shows what it has inside, and it is also useful for two 12v batteries at 24v. Which would be good for the 24volt input to the Cfls that I'm working on, as I have many of them. It is also free delivery. All this for only $10, hard to beat... You can't even buy the parts to make it oneself, at that price.
In a like manner, 12v car inverters will also work, without having to guess at all this, and having the overheating of the transistor issues, and too high or low voltage and current levels.
The 12v batteries with the Alum conversion as has been shown by John Bedini, can also be of benefit, as they can be taken down to nothing without harming the battery.
There are many 12v to 110v inverters, that can power 10 or more Cfls, no ringing, no overheating, only 250 mA draw,
like this one:
Bestek 120 Watt Slim DC to 110V AC Adapter Laptop Power Inverter Car Charger USB | eBay
$10 charge controller:
10A PWM Solar Charge Controller Regulator for 12V 24V PV Solar System | eBayLast edited by Nick_Z; 10-23-2012, 10:33 PM.
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guruji,Originally posted by Guruji View PostHello all ok zilano did not show anything but I think she was giving good hints afterall regarding Don circuit Kapandze did it for sure cause I saw his vids.
Regarding variable cap it should be place on another coil seperately from the circuit with same windings as base coil and try to catch resonance while monitoring amperage on circuit.
Thanks
i had a old fuji circuit where i had a cap and resistor on base , which i used on this one , it changes the frequency of the ringing i can hear and lower side it makes a bulb dim and higher side brighter but marginal , good to have ..
also about kapanadze , i don't believe in his video as i have pointed out how fake he was in the copper and aluminium disc project where he takes the power and feeds to motor and then to the bulb , and pose his glass box junk circuit and copper/aluminium discs are doing the work, he is fake.
donald is more genuine one and whenever someone try to replicate his work, there is always something missing , specially the other end of step down transformer.
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thanks nick for the link to solar panel , where can i get the charge controller , does it work with lipo 2amp ones which i showed in the video or the battery has to be 12v automotive lead acid ..
i like the lipo because it is light and can be made portable and delivers lot of juice ..
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Hello all ok zilano did not show anything but I think she was giving good hints afterall regarding Don circuit Kapandze did it for sure cause I saw his vids.Originally posted by hello_all View Postguruji,
zilano is all theory , did he/she ever showed a video of working stuff, no offense all theory and cut past of the circuits from internet , i wasted many hours on that and sometimes deletion of posts and appearence/disappearence of zilaon etc.. with promises of running off whole home from the aircore with cw -ccw reverse with diode and no diode nst ..
man i was like pulling my hairs each day a new diagram..
Regarding variable cap it should be place on another coil seperately from the circuit with same windings as base coil and try to catch resonance while monitoring amperage on circuit.Originally posted by Nick_Z View PostGuruji:
Funny you should mention it, but that is just what I was doing. I placed a variable capacitor for tuning the frequency between the base of the transistor and the Cfl bulb. It does adjust the frequency pretty well at that point, but I haven't had a chance to try other spots on the circuit, to try it on yet. I didn't obtain any additional brightness from the bulb. But, it is worth trying though, as it can also make the bulb and circuit easier to start up, especially on lower power settings, and also while testing different bulb types.
Thanks
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Here is a 20 watt solar panel recommended by LS for only $31.60.
Solar Panels, PV Systems and Inverters Distributor
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dear all ,
success!
12volt 3.6 watts joule ringer :
Joule Ringer 3.0 led bulb 3.6watts - YouTube
Measurements on led bulb: around 50-60 volts and decent light with no heating..Ultra- tech LED bulbs i think i am running them half of their brightness..
so 3.6watts gives me 20watt of light i am happy..
This is the best i can get this thing to do .. with no ringing and heating, offcourse i can drive the 7.5 watts to super bright with 2amp lipo , but long run it will kill the transistor and the bulb or something else..
future plans:
12 volt 5watts portable panel:
Sunforce 50022 5-Watt Solar Battery Trickle Charger : Amazon.com : Automotive
Now all i have to add some batteries in between and i will have a nice garage light..
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Guruji:
Funny you should mention it, but that is just what I was doing. I placed a variable capacitor for tuning the frequency between the base of the transistor and the Cfl bulb. It does adjust the frequency pretty well at that point, but I haven't had a chance to try other spots on the circuit, to try it on yet. I didn't obtain any additional brightness from the bulb. But, it is worth trying though, as it can also make the bulb and circuit easier to start up, especially on lower power settings, and also while testing different bulb types.
Brad: I think that those newer type of leds are the way to go, I just haven't gotten any to try out yet. But, I will. Let us know how it goes with yours.
I have Ac lighting my bulbs, as the neon lights both sides. I can't really trust the meter, as it only tells me what the input voltage is, even while lighting a neon brightly. But, when the meter does read right, I have about 120 volts, depending on the input.
Even on an input of 20 to 25 volts I can't light the bulbs full brightness, as I don't have the one amp or higher current from the panels.
I think that all we are saving with this circuit is the load of 300 to 500 mA that a regular inverter would draw. If I calculate the hours days, and weeks spent on tuning, I think that buying and using a regular inverter is way more cost effective. Plus there is no guessing at what it can or can't do. An additional solar cell or two will cover for the inverter draw loss of 1/2 amp. And a 12v to 110v car inverter can be bought for $20 or less
I do think that the 12v bulbs are better way to go, although this all needs to be proven.
What do you think???
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guruji,
zilano is all theory , did he/she ever showed a video of working stuff, no offense all theory and cut past of the circuits from internet , i wasted many hours on that and sometimes deletion of posts and appearence/disappearence of zilaon etc.. with promises of running off whole home from the aircore with cw -ccw reverse with diode and no diode nst ..
man i was like pulling my hairs each day a new diagram..
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About the number of winds on the primary ~ the fewer winds used, the higher the current draw is. As few as five turns can change the current draw 100 to 150 mA on this setup. This is a balancing act because if you increase the number of winds to draw milliamps, the quality of light also degrades.
It might be a couple of days, but I will try to video this setup showing the different lights powered off this circuit. The advantage of this circuit is that you can run the lights a considerable distance from the circuit. Attempting this with DC would require much heavier wire to be used and you would still have power losses. The 7.5 watt LED that I am using is a dimmable, so running at 80% power and 80% light is a wash. Cannot say how happy I am to see these numbers. I cannot get 100% light without using greater than 7.5 watts though.
Brad S
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brad,
what is the thing about turns of primary , lower
number higher amps or higher number lower amps ??
is there any relation...
like i want to drive a cfl compared to led lamp ... i know one is the volts other than i want to know how primary winds affect it..
nick ,
you are coming to the same point i made earlier that 12v leds and 110volt led efficiency ..
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Hi guys did anyone try another coil to driver coil with a adjustable cap for resonance. I once tried this but could not do it.
This was told by Zilano.
If anyone succeed please let us know.
Thanks
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Brad:
Thanks for your input. Sounds good. It would be interesting to see a video of your different lights, lighting on different tap points. The 15 volts or higher voltages may also be important for multiple Cfl, or Leds.
I'm using 23 volts right now off of my solar panels, for my 3.0 yoke circuit, but I don't have enough amps from my small panels.
If we try to economize on the input source we'll end up with lower light levels. I think that it's important to be able to make the brightest light possible using this set up. I don't think that we can light our house on mAs. Which is the goal that I'm going for.
The new 10 watt leds are much cheaper than buying several of the ready made 7.5 watt AC bulbs, and they have 900 lm., which is more than most of the AC led bulbs have, up to now.
Like these (below). Has anyone tried them???
5pcs 10W Watt LED Cool White High Power 900LM LED Lamp SMD Chip 9 12V DC | eBay
If you haven't see it, Manetictist has this video out, and an interesting forum with great information on his different 3.0 transformers type tests, including the yokes.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...v=e3wifl_FnZod bulbs.
Lidmotor made a test using Ac 110v led bulbs, along with their Dc 12v counterparts, and it looked like the Dc bulbs had just as much, or even higher output levels. The cool whites are somewhat brighter than the warm whites, so it may not have been a fair test. But, they are close to providing the same lumens, in any case.
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