Donald Smith Devices too good to be true

[knub]

dragon,
Thank you so much for sharing!

[Wistiti]

Interesting info in regard to Volta's Bi-metal contacts.

Read on from page 36
http://files.eric.ed.gov/fulltext/ED182155.pdf

Thank for this one!

So silver/tin or silver/zinc are good match... It will be nice to find a chart with the best match. If someone have one of these chart, could you please share it on this forum?

[dragon]

Hi, dragon
it is always interesting to watch your vidio!
Maybe you share your scheme from MVI MVI 1441 and 1434..
We will be very grateful to you!

1441... No, 1434 is the same as Bruce's "Mirror" circuit - drawing below...

Left is how it is in the video, right is just speculation using a full wave rectifier...

Edit: just for general knowledge the core I'm using is the Ul-1F4 here... Ferrite: U & I Cores

[knub]

Hi, dragon
it is always interesting to watch your vidio!
Maybe you share your scheme from MVI MVI 1441 and 1434..
We will be very grateful to you!

[radioionics]

Interesting info in regard to Volta's Bi-metal contacts.

Read on from page 36
http://files.eric.ed.gov/fulltext/ED182155.pdf

Excellent find! I love old info like this! Kudos to you!

[Majestic81]

Interesting info in regard to Volta's Bi-metal contacts.

Read on from page 36

http://files.eric.ed.gov/fulltext/ED182155.pdf

OK, I promised pictures so here they are. One shows the revised PPV components, the other is the completed new bench test arrangement with the L1 and L2 coils. L1 is 20.5 turns of 40KV rated wire around an 8 inch form and L2 is 2 turns of the same wire around a 10 inch form. I didn't have time yesterday to do anything more than previously described. I did note that when using the screwdriver as an antenna, I would get sparks up to about half an inch long jumping from the PPV anode bolt to the screwdriver whenever I approached it or withdrew from it. When the screwdriver is touching the PPV starts sparking and the spark color seems more whitish than bluish.

I also noticed that various small dust particles around the PPV started dancing when I had the HV on and especially once I touched the screwdriver. Some of this might just be electrostatic repulsion but I'm not sure.

[tswift]

Edit: I have some large aluminum sheet I'm going to set up above ground to experiment with along with a few other idea's I need to get out of my head...

I have been running a test this evening for the last hour and a half, charging up the cap bank in open loop mode. If it will ever get fully charged then I can read the output current directly on the shunt regulator. However, what I'm finding is that the PPV sparking is noticeably less than the last time I had it hooked up to the antenna just a couple of days ago. I think this is because of the weather conditions, it's now cold and dry, dewpoint is close to freezing. My assumption is that the atmospheric conductivity will affect the ion current, in this case reducing it which is not a good thing. More voltage would pull in more ions of course, but in my current configuration I have no way to adjust the voltage. Once I have a boost regulator it should be possible to dial it up and down, which could be handy.

At any rate, I have been thinking off and on about the problem of the antenna wire. I get significant hissing on the antenna wire and just a little bit of visible corona in places. Instead of the whole length of the wire it seems to be mainly coming from discrete points, perhaps they are scratches or dust on the wire, I'm not sure. I could make a frame of some kind and put a whole bunch of the 30 gauge wire on it somehow, but I still haven't been able to figure out a good way to do this that will give good results and not take too much time to build.

All of which brings us to the plate. Of course we're all familiar with Tesla's use of the plate as a radiant collector. That might be relevant here, and might not. We're trying to generate a small but nonzero amount of corona and ionization current, and a smooth flat plate is going to be very inefficient at that except at the edges and corners. But perhaps it's worth a try? It sure would be easier than doing a whole sub-project winding a bunch of that (*&^*%$# fine wire. I don't have a suitable plate of something like aluminum on hand, and I also don't have any idea how to start estimating what size plate would be necessary. A plate of any significant size is going to get pretty expensive too. Kind of like with the wire, there is probably an optimum and it probably depends on the voltage. The more voltage, the less current so the less collector area should be necessary. Again, just speculating based on what I know so far....

[Wistiti]

Yes guys, I have to admit your are completely right about the insulation...
Thanks for the help. Sometime it's take time to understand...

One other thing I notice on my quick test and have seen on the last video of Dragon is the light did not glow instantly when the power is on; it's take some time before the power build up...

Thanks tswift for the advice of trouble shout the leakage in dark room. I know Soundiceuk, Mjtw and you have say it before but this time I really understand the importance of avoiding leakage of the hv...

Any other advice are welcome!

ps: Dragon, it's a pleasure to see you jump in!

[dragon]

The vacuum was to strong, I fought it the best I could... then... into the abyss I went...

Yes the antenna is on the top of the red cap ( spark gap end ), the large 1/0 black cable is the earth ground going to 1 side of the NST. The other side of the NST to a diode and bottom of the cap. Identical to Bruce's diagram

I guess, inadvertently, the answer to ricards question has been answered about the ferrite.. whether it's equally as effective as an air core is still unanswered...

Edit: I have some large aluminum sheet I'm going to set up above ground to experiment with along with a few other idea's I need to get out of my head...

[tswift]

I decided to play around a bit, gathered some parts and pieces... wound 10 turns of 8ga speaker wire around a ferrite core as the primary and 2 turns of the same wire for the secondary. I'm using a homemade 10kv 10nf cap ( funny red thing ). I grabbed up an 8kv NST I had on the shelf and regulated it with a 15uf cap to the AC mains. Wired as Bruce stated using only one half of the mirror circuit.

Ah, so we have sucked you in after all! Is there an antenna somewhere I'm not seeing?

[dragon]

I decided to play around a bit, gathered some parts and pieces... wound 10 turns of 8ga speaker wire around a ferrite core as the primary and 2 turns of the same wire for the secondary. I'm using a homemade 10kv 10nf cap ( funny red thing ). I grabbed up an 8kv NST I had on the shelf and regulated it with a 15uf cap to the AC mains. Wired as Bruce stated using only one half of the mirror circuit.

The two bulbs are 12 volt 50 watt bulbs in parrallel so there is somewhere in the range of 6+ amps flowing through them. The circuit draws just under 40 watts. The spark gap is one I've used on multiple projects and has thoriated tungsten tips.

As you can see it's really a shabby build, pretty much a spaghetti ball that took all of 20 minutes to assemble. No reason to make excuses for experimenting with the circuit.

https://youtu.be/gt6hybPUXVI

I'll have to dig out some analog meters and see if I can get some reasonable readings on the secondary.... I was bored with my other projects and needed a fun diversion - this one fit the bill quite nicely.

[tswift]

A few observation and questions :

I Noticed everyone have large diameter air coils:
what advantage does a large diameter coils have over smaller coils (2" pipe) with ferite as core?

In general a larger diameter air core coil will have a higher Q. Reference a lot of Eric Dollard's work for instance, as well as Tesla. That's not to say that a smaller coil with ferrite might not work. Try it and let us know when you find out. Right now all of us are following the "Bruce probably knows best" approach....

When PPV fire's through Primary does it behave like regular Induction? or are there any odd phenomenon?

A very good question, and one that essentially cuts to the heart of what we're trying to do here. Theoretically, the energy in the primary is different than normal electricity, so it in fact does NOT behave like normal induction, because normal induction is always under unity. I am also curious about what happens in the space around the coil where the magnetic field is significant. A few of the things I would suspect might be mechanical forces and movements, cold and/or heat, and perhaps even odd temporal effects if you had a watch or clock that could operate that close to a source of HV/HF and not be affected by it. In particular, I expect the endothermic effect that is often associated with true overunity. If my understanding is at all correct, then the secondary winding should get COLD in direct proportion to the amount of power being drawn from it. It probably won't be noticeable unless we're dealing with much higher power levels than we are currently.

But to answer your question, we just don't know yet but stay tuned. As Wistiti is finding out, just making the apparatus well-insulated enough to run as designed is more of a challenge than you would think. Just looking at the schematic, it looks so simple....

Has anyone tried putting more secondary coils? I mean have more secondary coils, same amount of turns and have their own rectifiers and parallel to each other. I ask this because in experiments with buck converters using air core coils I have placed many parallel secondary coils surrounding the primary with their own rectifiers, and I have notice an Increase in output though not that much but It has Increase the overall Efficiency of the device, will this scenario apply as well?.

Also worth investigating. Let us know how it works out for you.

[tswift]

OK! I have no time right now for more testing but I just whant to give a short test to my last setup.

Results: way more voltage than my first set setup! My new flyback may be the cause... the PPV fire quite well.
The light on secondary barely glow. ( I think to had more turn on the secondary...

Strange things: The antenna emit a strange isssssssshing sound... AVOID touching it!!!
When I connect the power on ,with alligator clip on the 12v batt, I get schocked!!! I can see the spark hitting me . For sure it is im to close to the ground rod with my boots and there is still some leakage on my board. I have put the board directly on the snow close to the ground for the quick test... Next time I will drive some hv wire from the antenna and ground inside for more isolation...

Any experimented comments are welcome!

But hey guys; the light glow!!!

ps: sorry no photo this time; I have not bring my camera with me...

Excellent! Sounds like you're making progress now. You're finding out the hard way exactly what Mwtj and I have also found out the hard way, insulation is considerably more difficult than you expect once you start dealing with tens of kilovolts. Even if you have to hook your device up outside to run it (so do I), you can power it up on the workbench to verify that everything is charging and no leaks. Darken the room completely if you can and wait a couple minutes for your eyes to dark adapt, as if you were stargazing. A dim red LED light source of some kind helps so you can at least see to touch things. Then power it up and you can see the purple corona around any place that is leaking HV. It's audible too, that's the hissing sound. There's no avoiding it around the antenna since that's what we are trying to produce. Under dark enough conditions the whole thing will probably glow purple when charged, that's the ionization at work! Make sure no people or objects can come close to it.

[ricards]

A few observation and questions :

I Noticed everyone have large diameter air coils:
what advantage does a large diameter coils have over smaller coils (2" pipe) with ferite as core?

When PPV fire's through Primary does it behave like regular Induction? or are there any odd phenomenon?

Has anyone tried putting more secondary coils? I mean have more secondary coils, same amount of turns and have their own rectifiers and parallel to each other. I ask this because in experiments with buck converters using air core coils I have placed many parallel secondary coils surrounding the primary with their own rectifiers, and I have notice an Increase in output though not that much but It has Increase the overall Efficiency of the device, will this scenario apply as well?.

[Mwtj]

OK! I have no time right now for more testing but I just whant to give a short test to my last setup.

Results: way more voltage than my first set setup! My new flyback may be the cause... the PPV fire quite well.
The light on secondary barely glow. ( I think to had more turn on the secondary...

Strange things: The antenna emit a strange isssssssshing sound... AVOID touching it!!!
When I connect the power on ,with alligator clip on the 12v batt, I get schocked!!! I can see the spark hitting me . For sure it is im to close to the ground rod with my boots and there is still some leakage on my board. I have put the board directly on the snow close to the ground for the quick test... Next time I will drive some hv wire from the antenna and ground inside for more isolation...

Any experimented comments are welcome!

But hey guys; the light glow!!!

ps: sorry no photo this time; I have not bring my camera with me...

Insulation is the key. Because of leakages you get shocked. The sound the antenna is making is because of leakages. Everything around is getting charged. When properly insulated everything will be quiet.

I know this because i all had the same symptoms. Different part is got shocked by the antenna