Big Joule Theif

[slayer007]

Here you go guys, gave some extra kudos to Slayer/Xen and Lid, and more then once in the vid and on the description
Sawry about that again ALL
new link re edited
YouTube - AIO Bedini Light Fan & Charger

sincerely
Ash

Great video Ash.

I really liked how you combined the differant setups very nice.

Also thanks for the mention in your video.

[ashtweth]

Thanks and sorry again Guys if i ever forget some thing like that again i expect my butt whipped!'.

>The elimination of the charge battery and rerouting of the charge to the separate cap pulser was also interesting.

Okay it seemed like it gave us a few prob's, but it may have just bee our tuning pot. I dont think you need 2 of slayers toroidal's like we did to get BANG for you buck and good light. The light can almost blind if we turn it up using lid's one, and still 800-900 mA peak.(with charge).

Now why does the circle work? none of the other ones did, is it the symmetry? I think we will try the solid state from the FEG book in there instead, as the bifilar we are using really cannot give as much charge.

Batteries run really well for the input in PARALLEL guys at the c20 discharge rate. We have a had dinner with the AIO for over a WEEK, light /Fan and charger and still both bats are 12.8 Volts on the input. You guys have a winner.

[lanenal]

Thanks and sorry again Guys if i ever forget some thing like that again i expect my butt whipped!'.

Well done ashtweth -- especially as a good survey and historical record. As you connected this to Bedini n Rick circuits, and as our current goal with Big JT here is how to reduce input, I can't help but would like to suggest these Bedini circuits, which I believe will greatly reduce input if done properly:

http://rpmgt.org/mot.jpg

http://rpmgt.org/SequentialBipolarCircuit.jpg

Recently Ren and others reported great success with those designs above:
Bedini/Cole Bipolar switch (or how to drastically reduce your input!)

I am sure with so many brilliant people here, it won't take long to get it adopted into the Big JT (actually I suggested some thing similar in this thread before, but I don't have any evidence to back it up then). As for me, I am sort of a little lame -- I haven't been able to get my basic experiments through yet, partly because I haven't found the leisure and energy to do this. Sorry, but hope this rambling helps somehow.

[wantfreeenergy]

Hi all. I haven't read through all the posts. "Lazy" But just some ideas. Nothing to advance the circuit just some applications.

I've got one of those headlamp lights. Ya know, a light that fits around your head to leave your hands free for working or fiddlin on something. Well mine takes three AAA batteries. I've been trying to get it fully apart so I can re-wire it so that it'll use one AAA battery and the JT to power it while it re-charges the other two batteries. I'm just having a hard time getting the plastic on plastic pieces apart so I can re-wire the batts. I might try dipping it in some boiling water cus I suspect it's held together with some glue.

Another one. Cruisin on the EMSL site I saw someone take a circular 3v flat battery then attach a LED to it, taped it together then taped it to the inside of a mason jar lid and put it on a jar. Voila, night pathway lights when you make multiples. I was thinking of takin the JT and hooking it up to a copper piece and a galvanized piece. Positive and negative for an earth battery. Gonna drill holes in the mason jar lid to let the cu and galv pieces protrude out. Then just "plug it in" to the earth and voila. I don't have a piece of galv yet. Gonna get some nails to try it. I tried it with a piece of 10g cu and a piece of stainless steel strap. It didn't light. I didn't even measure if there was power coming off it.

Anyhow. Kewl circuit. Talk about super simple.

[wantfreeenergy]

Any circuit I should follow to get the earth battery to work with a joule thief?

Right now I have a toroid that came from a comp. There's an extra 3 coils unused on it. I'm using a 2n2222 transistor and then 5 LED's. No resistor or diode. I've tried hooking up some salvaged caps but I couldn't get it to light. I"m reading half a volt from my 10g copper wire and a bolt in salt water. I also attached a 10v 3300uF cap in parallel with the earth battery side. It wouldn't light up in the water, yet when I went to take voltage readings off it it would cause the LED to flicker on for a moment. I could just touch it anywhere and it would flicker. But I couldn't get it to light on that 1/2v.

Anyone got a circuit I can follow to create a JT to run from an earth battery? Can anyone run theirs from an earth battery? Do I just need better EB materials? Pirate from OU and youtube is showing using a supercap in parallel with his EB to get his JT to light. I hope that it's not the supercap that's needed. Those look expensive.

[Watson]

Hi all.
[snip]
Another one. Cruisin on the EMSL site I saw someone take a circular 3v flat battery then attach a LED to it, taped it together then taped it to the inside of a mason jar lid and put it on a jar. Voila, night pathway lights when you make multiples. I was thinking of takin the JT and hooking it up to a copper piece and a galvanized piece. Positive and negative for an earth battery. Gonna drill holes in the mason jar lid to let the cu and galv pieces protrude out. Then just "plug it in" to the earth and voila. I don't have a piece of galv yet. Gonna get some nails to try it. I tried it with a piece of 10g cu and a piece of stainless steel strap. It didn't light. I didn't even measure if there was power coming off it.

Anyhow. Kewl circuit. Talk about super simple.

But not as simple as my FET Joule Thief, believe it or not. It doesn't even need a resistor. And it will start and run at less than a tenth of a volt supply. It uses the Supertex TN0702 available from Mouser. Or you can use the much cheaper and easier to find 2N7000 MOSFET with the button cell helper shown in the schematic to get it to work below 0.6V supply.

This might be really handy when you try to run it from a single copper-zinc battery. I'm not sure how much they put out, but if it's less than a volt, you will probably have a hard time getting a conventional JT with a bipolar transistor to give any light from the LED.

It doesn't have to be galvanized. You can find fittings made of zinc in the electrical supplies of the hardware store. The bigger the electrodes, the better. One battery I saw on Instructables was made by sanding the copper off a penny, leaving the inside, which is zinc.

Oh, water your dirt before you put the electrodes in. And it might help if you add some salt.

[Watson]

Any circuit I should follow to get the earth battery to work with a joule thief?

Right now I have a toroid that came from a comp. There's an extra 3 coils unused on it. I'm using a 2n2222 transistor and then 5 LED's. No resistor or diode. I've tried hooking up some salvaged caps but I couldn't get it to light. I"m reading half a volt from my 10g copper wire and a bolt in salt water. I also attached a 10v 3300uF cap in parallel with the earth battery side. It wouldn't light up in the water, yet when I went to take voltage readings off it it would cause the LED to flicker on for a moment. I could just touch it anywhere and it would flicker. But I couldn't get it to light on that 1/2v.

Anyone got a circuit I can follow to create a JT to run from an earth battery? Can anyone run theirs from an earth battery? Do I just need better EB materials? Pirate from OU and youtube is showing using a supercap in parallel with his EB to get his JT to light. I hope that it's not the supercap that's needed. Those look expensive.

Yeah, 6 bucks for a 50 farad supercap, and that's with a month or more wait if they're out of stock and backordered.

When this flicker happens, I've found that the base resistor is often too low. So I put a 10 or 25k pot in series with it, and see if adjusting it will get the circuit to work at that supply voltage. But see my other reply in this thread for another probably better solution. You'll find the schematic there.

[Watson]

Any circuit I should follow to get the earth battery to work with a joule thief?

Right now I have a toroid that came from a comp. There's an extra 3 coils unused on it. I'm using a 2n2222 transistor and then 5 LED's. No resistor or diode. I've tried hooking up some salvaged caps but I couldn't get it to light. I"m reading half a volt from my 10g copper wire and a bolt in salt water. I also attached a 10v 3300uF cap in parallel with the earth battery side. It wouldn't light up in the water, yet when I went to take voltage readings off it it would cause the LED to flicker on for a moment. I could just touch it anywhere and it would flicker. But I couldn't get it to light on that 1/2v.

Anyone got a circuit I can follow to create a JT to run from an earth battery? Can anyone run theirs from an earth battery? Do I just need better EB materials? Pirate from OU and youtube is showing using a supercap in parallel with his EB to get his JT to light. I hope that it's not the supercap that's needed. Those look expensive.

At work I was checking out some electronic website and noticed a paid advert on the right side. It was for plans to build a motor that's supposed to generate more power than it uses -- 'Free Energy'. I decided to look at the ad. The website is on my PC at work, but from memory, I think the website was Magniwork - The Energy of Tomorrow, In Your Home Today!.

But things just don't make sense. Has anyone seen one of these motors? Anyone know of another person who has seen one or has one or has built one. or even tried to build one?? I really don't think anyone has ever got to the point of completing one of these, contrary to their testimonials.

[eternalightwithin]

I was looking at mouser last night. It actually gets cheaper ( $/Farad ) as you go up in capacitance.
And you get 0.5V increase for "free"

BCAP3000 P270 T04 Maxwell Technologies Supercapacitors

How would you like to store an earth charge of 3000 Farads.

David

P.S. How do you guys get this really low voltage to your house to use properly?

At work I was checking out some electronic website and noticed a paid advert on the right side. It was for plans to build a motor that's supposed to generate more power than it uses -- 'Free Energy'. I decided to look at the ad. The website is on my PC at work, but from memory, I think the website was Magniwork - The Energy of Tomorrow, In Your Home Today!.

But things just don't make sense. Has anyone seen one of these motors? Anyone know of another person who has seen one or has one or has built one. or even tried to build one?? I really don't think anyone has ever got to the point of completing one of these, contrary to their testimonials.

[Sephiroth]

At work I was checking out some electronic website and noticed a paid advert on the right side. It was for plans to build a motor that's supposed to generate more power than it uses -- 'Free Energy'. I decided to look at the ad. The website is on my PC at work, but from memory, I think the website was Magniwork - The Energy of Tomorrow, In Your Home Today!.

But things just don't make sense. Has anyone seen one of these motors? Anyone know of another person who has seen one or has one or has built one. or even tried to build one?? I really don't think anyone has ever got to the point of completing one of these, contrary to their testimonials.

There's a thread about magniwork here

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/4508-magniwork.html

Looks like a scam ( or an international conspiracy by the oil cartel to discredit free energy research and make a couple of thousand bucks while doing so )

[Watson]

Magniwork

There's a thread about magniwork here

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/4508-magniwork.html

Looks like a scam ( or an international conspiracy by the oil cartel to discredit free energy research and make a couple of thousand bucks while doing so )

After another enquiry, a fellow JT fan sent me this, and said that Magniwork plagiarized these _free_ plans. I haven't had time to study them to see if they have any merit. The word is, they don't.

http://jnaudin.free.fr/html/mromag.htm

[Watson]

I was looking at mouser last night. It actually gets cheaper ( $/Farad ) as you go up in capacitance.
And you get 0.5V increase for "free"

BCAP3000 P270 T04 Maxwell Technologies Supercapacitors

How would you like to store an earth charge of 3000 Farads.

David

P.S. How do you guys get this really low voltage to your house to use properly?

I got some 50 Farad SCs from Mouser, after finally being backordered for a month. I connected one to a half amp power supply and waited and waited... it seemed like it took at least a minote to charge up to 2.3V. The 50 F SC is a huge sponge when it comes to soaking up electrons. If I connected the PS up to a 3000 F SC, it would take an hour to charge up. If the charging current was 1 milliamp, it would take a thousand hours, or 37 days to charge. But that assumes the leakage current of the SC is much less than 1 mA. If it isn't, then the SC will NEVER charge.

The losses in reasonably sized copper wire would waste most of the energy if the voltage was low. Therefore it would make sense to convert the DC Voltage to a higher voltage to minimize losses. The conversion would take place at the storage point.

[eternalightwithin]

But if your 50F cap charged up in a minute then the 3000F cap would take 1 hour.


If you keep your cap over 1/2 full when charging, you might get better charging rate out of it.

David

I got some 50 Farad SCs from Mouser, after finally being backordered for a month. I connected one to a half amp power supply and waited and waited... it seemed like it took at least a minote to charge up to 2.3V. The 50 F SC is a huge sponge when it comes to soaking up electrons. If I connected the PS up to a 3000 F SC, it would take an hour to charge up. If the charging current was 1 milliamp, it would take a thousand hours, or 37 days to charge. But that assumes the leakage current of the SC is much less than 1 mA. If it isn't, then the SC will NEVER charge.

The losses in reasonably sized copper wire would waste most of the energy if the voltage was low. Therefore it would make sense to convert the DC Voltage to a higher voltage to minimize losses. The conversion would take place at the storage point.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, I would like to thank Lidmotor and whoever else for throwing out the idea of using the halo type bulb which I happen to have an older one in my work light, it really pumps out the light with a joule thief circuit with high turn secondary of 24 guage wrapped around. Also works well with a regular small 120V to 12V trafo. wired in a step-up configuration pulsed with 555 at 12V. I notice also with the halo bulb that with the high voltage wires it is sensitive to which way they are connected to bulb, if connected one way it causes a purple glow on one side and a rotating light effect in one spot, however when swapping the connection it lights normally, strange considering its ac off the secondary. And when the elements go bad i can use an ignition coil to light it. Thanks.
peace love light
Tyson

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, forget to mention the power draw at highly usable light levels and that is right now 3.75W @ 12V, 300 milliamps. It is plenty of light even when inside the work light but when you take it out, it illuminates the entire room with a surprising amount of light. There is a little heat at the transistor heat sink, probably from the flyback not being used entirely by the bulb.
peace love light
Tyson