Twin JT Spiral Knot.
I discoverd today that my twin bifilar, each wired for hi voltage, so as to create two Joule Thives twisted together, works as an a.c. inverter and a more then voltage doubling transformer. Just by charging one coil, the oscillating magnetic tank circuit outputs a full a.c. sine wave from the other, and more then doubles the voltage. This coil should be able to illuminate a 120 volt a.c. incandescent bulb from one JT with a cube of 6 nine volt batteries wired in series to it's other co-twisted output twin.
Five 12 volt batteries in series connected to one JT should power our household appliances from it's entwined mate. Probably connect directly to solar panels
to power our T.V.'s directly from sunshine!
I'm renameing this amplifier coil the "Dual Joule"! Say hello to the bi-bifilar. Spool's should work fine. 4 wires 8 ends. A.C inverter and voltage doubling dynamo. A power gain the inverse proportion of rectifier loss shows up in the same percentage of voltage increase. That's the amount over 2. There has to be amperage behind it. This comes from the marriage of the two halves in a harmonic cord. The elastic nature of time accounts for influx of scaler radiation.
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Sources of Black Sand...
A very good source of Black sand is E-bay of all places... It's not bad too for a pound it costs like 8 bucks of high quality stuff.. Check it out some time.Originally posted by Vaporizer View PostWell, ya learn something new everyday. I did some reading on the black sand. It definitely is magnetic. From the pics I saw I'd think you would want it finer so there is less voids in the material. It would be the same as Tec's idea of crushing the Goldmine toroids. As a binder I'd go with something very thin like a high quality super glue added to it in the form, packed in layers. At least that's how I imagine it. You'd just need to see how far the binder permeates the powder. Both sound like interesting projects. 1 hr epoxy may work well if you put enough in till its virtually dry. Then press it in the core form. Rods are useable too.
The cores from the Goldmine would be ferrite(ceramic coated particles). The sand is described as magnetite. I wonder if it holds magnetism? It may react like a powdered iron core or it may be 10x better. Placing a strong magnet on running JT's can make them brighter if oriented correctly. Here is a vid on separating it from general sand.
Black Sand Magnets (Gold Magnet)
Edit: I got to thinking if you could buy magnetite powder. Sure enough. Didn't see a cost, but since its used in printer toners it may be fairly cheap. If that worked, it could be a source of low cost home made really good cores. Here is one of many companies I found on a simple Google search.
Main manufacturer of barium ferrite powder,barium ferrite and stintered magnetic powder in China
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Funsaver mod.
The AA foldable solar chager brought the four dead batteries back to full charge with merely a few hours of direct sunlight! That comes out to 18 hours of 20 watt cool white flourescent light with the twin funsaver mod toroid.
The Power film array is so efficent, it begins to charge from the 20 watt toroid bulb when wraped around it in a dark room. Top of the line marine quality. A real power house for the fold up size of a handkerchief. Kinda costly. What a sweet combination this makes.
Solar Products for OEMs, Military & Consumers | PowerFilmSolar.comLast edited by synchro; 12-22-2010, 09:49 PM.
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Well, ya learn something new everyday. I did some reading on the black sand. It definitely is magnetic. From the pics I saw I'd think you would want it finer so there is less voids in the material. It would be the same as Tec's idea of crushing the Goldmine toroids. As a binder I'd go with something very thin like a high quality super glue added to it in the form, packed in layers. At least that's how I imagine it. You'd just need to see how far the binder permeates the powder. Both sound like interesting projects. 1 hr epoxy may work well if you put enough in till its virtually dry. Then press it in the core form. Rods are useable too.
The cores from the Goldmine would be ferrite(ceramic coated particles). The sand is described as magnetite. I wonder if it holds magnetism? It may react like a powdered iron core or it may be 10x better. Placing a strong magnet on running JT's can make them brighter if oriented correctly. Here is a vid on separating it from general sand.
Black Sand Magnets (Gold Magnet)
Edit: I got to thinking if you could buy magnetite powder. Sure enough. Didn't see a cost, but since its used in printer toners it may be fairly cheap. If that worked, it could be a source of low cost home made really good cores. Here is one of many companies I found on a simple Google search.
Main manufacturer of barium ferrite powder,barium ferrite and stintered magnetic powder in China
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Black sand....
The black sand I am refering to is actually a by product from gold and mineral mining. It is very magnetic...Originally posted by Vaporizer View PostI surely didn't mean to be or sound down on you. I'm new here and still read more than try. I order things only to read days later that something better was found. New order...lol If one were to order, some sites use the letter code, others use the AL number, but there seems to be diff value factors of it. I'm sure I saw one site that had Al's in the low 1000's? That would make the 125 on Micro Metals totally unworthy. I wish there was some standard. I'm sure there must be that I just haven't found that calculates all these diff values presented.
On the black sand. Interesting.....but its my understanding that ferrite is Iron Oxide particles coated with ceramic then formed. The ceramic prevents physical touching as would be seen in a molded powdered iron. Black sand is not magnetic AFAIK, so I don't know if it would be better or act as an air core.
Air cores are shown to work. Be an interesting thing to try. I mold cast many things for my micro rc planes & helis. Play Dough woks well....lol
Press a know size in 2 layers, then us an xacto knike to resplit the form, making a couple of alignment marks. If sticking is a problem....Pam spray works very well as a cheap release agent.
Pls post the results if you give it a shot.
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Ideal on toroids
Hello All.Originally posted by Vaporizer View PostI surely didn't mean to be or sound down on you. I'm new here and still read more than try. I order things only to read days later that something better was found. New order...lol If one were to order, some sites use the letter code, others use the AL number, but there seems to be diff value factors of it. I'm sure I saw one site that had Al's in the low 1000's? That would make the 125 on Micro Metals totally unworthy. I wish there was some standard. I'm sure there must be that I just haven't found that calculates all these diff values presented.
On the black sand. Interesting.....but its my understanding that ferrite is Iron Oxide particles coated with ceramic then formed. The ceramic prevents physical touching as would be seen in a molded powdered iron. Black sand is not magnetic AFAIK, so I don't know if it would be better or act as an air core.
Air cores are shown to work. Be an interesting thing to try. I mold cast many things for my micro rc planes & helis. Play Dough woks well....lol
Press a know size in 2 layers, then us an xacto knike to resplit the form, making a couple of alignment marks. If sticking is a problem....Pam spray works very well as a cheap release agent.
Pls post the results if you give it a shot.
These last few posts have gotten me to wondering if maybe since the 5 for a dollar toroids at electronic goldmine are said to work well maybe they could be crushed and made into a larger coil or mixed with the black sand and made into a larger coil.???Just a thought.Happy Holidays Everyone.Tec
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I surely didn't mean to be or sound down on you. I'm new here and still read more than try. I order things only to read days later that something better was found. New order...lol If one were to order, some sites use the letter code, others use the AL number, but there seems to be diff value factors of it. I'm sure I saw one site that had Al's in the low 1000's? That would make the 125 on Micro Metals totally unworthy. I wish there was some standard. I'm sure there must be that I just haven't found that calculates all these diff values presented.
On the black sand. Interesting.....but its my understanding that ferrite is Iron Oxide particles coated with ceramic then formed. The ceramic prevents physical touching as would be seen in a molded powdered iron. Black sand is not magnetic AFAIK, so I don't know if it would be better or act as an air core.
Air cores are shown to work. Be an interesting thing to try. I mold cast many things for my micro rc planes & helis. Play Dough woks well....lol
Press a know size in 2 layers, then us an xacto knike to resplit the form, making a couple of alignment marks. If sticking is a problem....Pam spray works very well as a cheap release agent.
Pls post the results if you give it a shot.
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No no no....
Originally posted by Vaporizer View Post@ Jbignes5,
It is a nice app, but it still leaves information holes when you are making one or trying to make the best one you can from scrapped or surplus ones. Most won't have any details available. Some occasionally have a part number tht can be referenced.
IMHO that's where IST's method of evaluating what you have by a few windings stands out. If one were building as a product to sell that would be invaluable. But, that actually goes against the original principle of open source sharing, using what is "on hand" from salvaged and such. Posted info from sources found is just as important. I recently read that the toroid from a cfl base was powdered iron not ferrite. This makes it very inefficient for our use and requires many more windings. Jenna had approached a company about "W" types, I don't remember the size, but if memory serves me correctly they were going to run abt $35 ea.
The pretty tan one I have pictured earlier may not be as good as anticipated. Manufacturers don't have a standard on color coding. I did get them reasonable but can the 3" one make a Jenna's light as Lidmotor did? I begin to wonder as I found the company that makes them are powdered iron for tan. So, low permeability. Are they useless, no, they will work but will probably take more windings and not be as efficient. Electronic Goldmines 5 for a $1 gets rave reviews from many. I have 15 of them. Somewhat size limited at some point, but they can be stacked or chained together.
I guess it all depends what the experimenter wants to do or spend.
I wasn't referring to anyones process. There are a great many here who have figured out the best way to use rehabs (old stuff).This is just what I saw when buying a new core from these guys. Since my project will be dealing with huge sized toroid forms I thought it was of topic for this conversation. Although it has gone way to the left and right lol it is somewhat relevant.
I do agree that most are way too expensive. Has anyone tried black sand in toroidial form? Even if we have to condition the toroid when being set by the epoxy I would think the black sand route would be best. Even though we have to make our own molds and energize a coil around the toroid while it sets I bet the black sand would make a much better core for toroids. Hmmm... It has me thinking now rofl...
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@ Jbignes5,
It is a nice app, but it still leaves information holes when you are making one or trying to make the best one you can from scrapped or surplus ones. Most won't have any details available. Some occasionally have a part number tht can be referenced.
IMHO that's where IST's method of evaluating what you have by a few windings stands out. If one were building as a product to sell that would be invaluable. But, that actually goes against the original principle of open source sharing, using what is "on hand" from salvaged and such. Posted info from sources found is just as important. I recently read that the toroid from a cfl base was powdered iron not ferrite. This makes it very inefficient for our use and requires many more windings. Jenna had approached a company about "W" types, I don't remember the size, but if memory serves me correctly they were going to run abt $35 ea.
The pretty tan one I have pictured earlier may not be as good as anticipated. Manufacturers don't have a standard on color coding. I did get them reasonable but can the 3" one make a Jenna's light as Lidmotor did? I begin to wonder as I found the company that makes them are powdered iron for tan. So, low permeability. Are they useless, no, they will work but will probably take more windings and not be as efficient. Electronic Goldmines 5 for a $1 gets rave reviews from many. I have 15 of them. Somewhat size limited at some point, but they can be stacked or chained together.
I guess it all depends what the experimenter wants to do or spend.
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Thanks to both
Hello All.Originally posted by Vaporizer View PostLets try it this way
Micrometals - Iron Powder Cores
I would like to thank Vaporizer & Jbignes5 for the Link and the download tip both are very helpful and on the same website.Added to my favorite bookmark's.
Tec
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He has a nice app...
Download the Inductor design software and you can input anything about the inductor of your choice to see if anything they make will match your requirements. It's a nice little app that can and will tell you everything about the inductor before you buy it.
By far it is the best little app I have seen for inductors of the toroid design.
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Hello Vaporizer and All.Originally posted by Vaporizer View PostHi all,
Here is an example of what I was referring to.
T106-2 AL=13.5 +/- 5 %
T106-45 AL=125 +/- 5 %
I'd thnk the 125 is better, but there is no table I can find that shows the permeability Like a "W" = 10,000 to this AL value.
Anyone?
@Vaporizer.I believe you are right. I can't get the link to open I tried a few time's no luck.
@NickZ.
Looks like you've been busy. keep us posted.
Tec
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Hi all,
Here is an example of what I was referring to.
T106-2 AL=13.5 +/- 5 %
T106-45 AL=125 +/- 5 %
I'd thnk the 125 is better, but there is no table I can find that shows the permeability Like a "W" = 10,000 to this AL value.
Anyone?
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@V and All:
You're welcome. And my thanks goes to Osiris (IST), for sharing his finds. He is also the one that came up with the toroid tuning method that I sent the link from, a few posts ago.
He mentioned that the big 10000u cores may cost up to $100 per core, but that the company also give a free sample. I think that you have to e-mail them to get a current price quote.
Anyways, like Jeanna mentioned, it's all about permeability, and tuning, if you want see some great results.
I'm still working on the Captret - Jt circuit.
So far its been pretty interesting... I'm still plugging away at it, though. It's too early to know (for me) if there is any real SUSTAINABLE juice flowing between them, yet. I think that the open Captret circuit that Lidmotor came up with, may be what I'll also be trying next.
A captret-Jtc with an antena and a ground connection. The metal capacitor cans and also the metal battery cans may work similar to antenas, when they are all connected together,and connected to a ground.
What signal would they be pulling in? Aether...
NZ
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