Big Joule Theif

[Mark]

Awesome Kick-back and welcome.

Does that 22w cfl light up to near full strength?

[Lidmotor]

RadioShack --25 Ohm Rheostat

Hi redrechie,
IMO it is best to not even go there.

The effects of high voltage high frequency are so completely different from the regular paradigm, that it will take years of practice opening our minds just to make a little progress.

There is probably no need to call on amps in a pulsed circuit.
This is my thesis.
I personally believe this is one thing tesla discovered.
His backers made sure we would not be able to figure this out for a long time.

It is better to just keep experimenting and not go there. (my opinion again)

@lidmotor,
I went all around my town today and nobody had a rheostat dimmer switch like yours.
One place had a $10 (!) type that is bigger than 3 of my circuits!!
Could you please turn it over and tell me the model number?
I thought you got it at radio shack??
Radio shack will order one for me if I know the number.

thank you,

jeanna

@ Jeanna
Here is a direct link to the Radio Shack web page that shows the rheostat.

25-Ohm 3-Watt Rheostat - RadioShack.com

It is rated at 3 watts and burns out qucikly if you run too many amps through it. I put a heat sink on the bottom of mine if I'm pushing it because they get hot just like a ballast resistor. The part number is 271-265 and they cost $3.99.
I have been working with a "1 toroid that I wound (10Tx10Tx87T) It has 24 ga on the small windings and 30ga on the 87T (just an arbitrary #) winding.
The idea was to go your direction and focus on what the secondary could do. The voltage bump that you get there lets you do a whole bunch of things.
If anyone else out there has the Dr. Stiffler "towers" built--- then start playing around with them! Use the HV off the secondary of a JT. You will see some magic.
Another thing that I tried was running the circuit backward using a PNP instead of a NPN transistor. It works just fine. You just have to reverse the (+) and (-) up front. I am using the Radio Shack little 2N3906 NPN (15 to a package for a couple dollars). Slayer is the one who turned me onto this idea. He got a SEC-15 to run on them also.

@Kick-bak
Great job using the micro wave fan motor. I have one of those. I was going to try and run the motor off a JT secondary. Now I may just take it apart like you did and use the coil. Thinking outside the box is really a good thing.

Lidmotor

[morpher44]

carbon insulated wire

Hi Jeanna.
Thank's for the reply I read somewhere cant remember where( they say memory is the first to go ) That the wire Tesla used was coated with a naturel rubber with carbon added to the mix I guess this was the only coating they had at the time.Do you think the carbon somehow was key in some of his radient experiment's I know that's way out of the box but i think it's kinda like a wire falling in just the right place by accident thing's like that do happen. Again thank's for the reply. Tec
I dont have a scope,Got laid off and it dont look like the company is going to come back.so I've had a little more time to experiment between looking for work.Not many place's here and most are cutting back.suck's but that's the way it is.Thank's Tec

@Tectalabyss

Sorry to hear you got layed-off. That does suck.

re: carbon.
I've learned -- from Wikipedia -- search for
"electric double-layer capacitors"
that they put carbon/charcoal in the dielectric to create
an increased energy density. I would imagine, therefore,
that if carbon was in the wire insulation ... that the capacitive
characteristics of the wire would change.

Yes carbon insulated wire might be very interesting to experiment
with.

[jeanna]

@ redrichie

Yes a 1.5v AA battery.

I tried to measure the ac voltage off the 423 Ohm winding but my elcheapo
multimeter has trouble reading the pulses.

Kick-bak

Hi kick-bak
This is normal. A dmm cannot read this at all. Idunno why not but tis so.
If you do not have a scope and you really want to know, then you can set up a bridge and 2 extra diodes and collect it all in a cap. But you'd better use one of those camera caps because it is very high voltage. In fact it is more than 400v if you are lighting a fluoro tube.

Good job

----
@lidmotor,
Thank you.
They will order it for me next week.

@tec,
As long as the memory that goes is the brainwashing, maybe it isn't too bad??

That the wire Tesla used was coated with a naturel rubber

In his lectures of 1892 he goes into a lot of detail about this.
(gutta percha he called it. gutta is raw latex rubber)
He used gutta coated wire and he submerged it in oil that had been boiled long enough to remove any bubbles that might compromise the rate of change of the impulse.

I am so very glad I can use a transistor.
Slap me when I complain about the cold solder joints on the 2N3055!

---
I have a link to this excellent book which is on scribd, but I am changing computers and it is not on this one yet.

jeanna

[Lidmotor]

Joule Thief transmitting power down one wire

@All
I posted this at Jonny's SEC/Joule Thief thread but I will post it here as well.
This is a video of a Joule Thief circuit using Dr. Stiffler's "towers" to transmit power down one wire. If Mr. Tesla is looking down--- I'm sure that he has that slight smile on his face.

YouTube - Joule Thief acting like a SEC.ASF

Lidmotor

[redrichie]

Hi All.
Quick up date Sofar so good Voltage still at 1.20. Leds still bright. been running since sunday morning.I am going to run this all week just to see for sure. I am thinking maybe I'll will try this with a 12 volt lead acid Battery Who know's Thank's Tec

Any up date on the charge rate of your secondary coil or battery Voltage?

[kick-bak]

Hi

My setup.

Bifiliar wound 40turn (0.4mil) magnet wire over top of Micro Wave fan coil.
Laminated core performed poorly so removed and inserted ferrite rod ( insert fun here )
Bifiliar wound same direction as MW fan coil.
One start and End winding joined for center tap.

Photo notes

Red : Bat (+) <--> Center Tap of 40/40 turn .4mil mag wire
Black : Bat (-) <--> Emitter 2N3055
Green : Base 2N3055 <--> 1k pot <--> Yellow <--> Start winding 40 turn.
White : Collector 2N3055 <--> End winding 40 turn
Outputs of MW coil to 22w CFL Halo. Tried other CFLs but this worked the
best. Would like to have tested a 10W Halo but dont have one

Originally had 10/20 turns but CFL would only light half way round. I've found
that the CFL will glow slightly if only the Red output lead is connected but will
not glow if only the Black lead is connected Maybe i'm only running
off the up OR down stroke, would be nice if able to utilize both
strokes somehow. The Red output lead is connected to the MW coils Start
winding and if holding the coil with the right hand and the outputs facing outward,
the windings follow the right hand rule. I think this coil will work great on a SSG.

Kick-bak

[kick-bak]

@ Tectalabyss

Thanks. I did try a darlington pair using a BC548 and the 2N3055 but i didn't see
much difference. Will look into the Voltage doubler and I do have a few large voltage caps here to play with.
I did try to get some measurements with my dmm but I couldn't even get it
to show amp draw. The thing just keeps flashing numbers at me. Setting the
1k pot on low I can test the MW coil ac output while slowly turning the pot on
but the dmm starts flashing on and off around the 400v mark. Its max reading is
750vac. I also thru in a RS206 800v bridge rectifier to try and get a dc reading
but the same thing occurs.( dmm flashing ). Max dc reading is 1000v
I may try puting in a few diodes on the low side to see if that calms this thing down.
Bugger it! I'll just take it to work and get our electrician to take some measurements.
He's anti FE so i'm sure i'm in for a long and in depth lecture on how it works
which is what i got when i mentioned some of John Bedini's machines.


Kick-bak

[kick-bak]

@ Tectalabyss

Just looked at your diagram. Kv ? lol
I wouldn't know where to start in regards to caps with that
sort of circuit. I may just leave it to a more experienced tinkerer to test
out.
Thanks

Kick-bak

[Lidmotor]

Kick-Bak's Light

@Kick-Bak
I like what you did. It means that we can do this without using a toroid core. They have a bad habit of making a high pitch whine that is quite annoying and they are hard to wind.
You can probably just add more voltage to your setup and that halo light will come on full bright.
Iam very curious what you electrician friend will say about this circuit. It is really just a self-oscillating transformer circuit. It is the simplicity and the light producing aspect that got me interested. The way that you came up with makes it even simpler though. We should start hunting for that air core coil somewhere. I'm thinking that maybe there is a 'solenoid' coil out there that might work. The ferrite rods are easy to get.

Lidmotor

[jeanna]

jeanna' light

Well...
It took a bit, but this is my first success with a cfl. 13w

535v or higher.
tip3055
1.2vAA
2T,10T>300T...lost count you know
2.6khz

the secondary wire is 26awg that I get from gobrushless.

After I lit the 18 inch tube, I was playing around with a 48 inch tube which made 6 inches of lively sparks inside the tube, but only at both ends.
When I was doing that, I remembered the capacitor trick.
Now, It didn't work yet with the 48 inch tube, but on a lark I tried this 13w cfl again and it turned right on without any need for coaxing it! (2 caps in series 47uF each at the battery.)

jeanna's light.

I will make a case of some kind tomorrow, I think.
(I had 10 days straight of thanksgiving and eating with friends in CA last year which makes up for a solo video day this year!)

I will let you know when it is finished, of course.

jeanna

[Mark]

Hi Jeanna

I have lit a 14w CFL My toroid has 3T 13T and 350T-400T (tried to count afterward, lol). I used one AAA battery, no caps. My CFL wasn't very bright though. I have also lit 6 of the unmodified led bulbs also or 114 single leds.

How much noise are you getting from the toroid? Mine is a little irritating.

I also bought some different led bulbs that Sams just got in. They are 2 watts and suppose to be equivalent to 60 watt bulbs.

Mark

[Lidmotor]

Happy Thanksgiving

@Jeanna
Yeah!! That looks good. Have a happy Thanksgiving.

@Kick-Bak
I built a different kind of coil yesterday with your idea in mind of using a straight design with a ferrite rod as the core. It didn't do what I wanted it to (produce high enough voltage to light a fluorescent) but it did give me a tunable inductor. I will be working more with that idea. I made a video and posted it over at Jonny's SEC/JT thread because I had it driving a Dr. Stiffler SEC tower with 27 leds. The inductor design was similar to one used in my version of a SEC 15-3 circuit. Mutten over at the SEC thead came up with the design months ago.

Cheers,

Lidmotor

[jeanna]

Hi Jeanna

I have lit a 14w CFL My toroid has 3T 13T and 350T-400T (tried to count afterward, lol). I used one AAA battery, no caps. My CFL wasn't very bright though.

Mark

Nice, Mark!
The voltage in the AAA is the same, so in my experience the only difference between the AAA and the D is the length of time it runs.
That said... IF there is some kind of amps draw directly from the battery that is needed to start it up, then you will have an easier time with the AA or bigger capacity battery.
In fact, I wonder about this, because the 100uF cap at the battery was needed.
As soon as I added that the light went on instantly, as I said with no coaxing.

The reason for a cap in parallel with the base resistor is to save on amps draw because there is a kind of' repeater action' that works when this is done right. (It is a tank circuit right there.).
I think lidmotor's rheostat is doing the same thing and I plan to play with it today.

I have also lit 6 of the unmodified led bulbs also or 114 single leds.

I am glad to hear this. I was a bit unwilling to pop mine with this much voltage.
thanks for that info.
Those leds are strawhats, and they are made to have a much wider angle than the others. I like them.

They are 2 watts and suppose to be equivalent to 60 watt bulbs.

oooo cool Please let us know.

How much noise are you getting from the toroid? Mine is a little irritating.

Yes, I know.
(I have many cfl's in lamps which make the same noise.)

I only have this problem when trying to light a fluoro because the frequency goes down when the voltage goes up, and we can hear it when it is below 20k.
My first one was at 5khz, and very loud
the little 1.5 inch was at 12.5khz, but it could only light a 4" tube.
This one is 2.27khz.
Maybe this is the real reason to use a wooden box?

@all,
Last night, I forgot to read the scope when the system was set.
I only checked with the scope initially. When I saw over 500v when the base resistor was at 1k ohm,I smiled, and put away the scope. But the volts are much higher than 500v.
So, here are the readings and the whole story.

Big unknown toroid 3.38" OD
1T,10T,>300T
TIP3055
70 Ohms at base resistor
895V (!)
2.27Khz
975mH coil inductance
2.51uF coil capacitance

I will report what happens with the lidmotor rheostat.

jeanna

[jeanna]

20 watt- not 13watt!!

Hi everybody,
I grabbed the wrong lightbulb yesterday.

Today I was reaching for something and I saw the 13 watt bulb I bought to take apart!!
So, what had I used?
I was rummaging looking for a 10watt, which I didn't have.
I guess I picked up a 20 watt and never checked myself.
So all those statistics and all that light came from a 20 watt cfl.
(wow, no wonder I had some trouble without the batterycaps.)

So, that is what I used --- 20wat tcfl.

OK.
today,
I reassembled this circuit with a 33ohm standard resistor at the base, and added lidmotor's RS rheostat.
This works like a charm.

jeanna

edit
here is a video
jeanna's Lidmotor's Jeanna's Light