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Gray Tube Replication

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  • Aaron
    replied
    green color

    Originally posted by Matthew Jones View Post
    High frequency electricity causes a green spark across 2 copper contacts.
    Its the effect the oxidation has on the flame or somthing.
    If you doubt me make a communtator for pulse motor and use a copper to copper contact (Instead of a carbon brush).

    Matt
    Hi Matt,

    The green color with this method really has nothing to do with copper. I get the bright green plasma bursts (not sparks) with steel, copper, iron, aluminum and a handful of different alloys used for sparkplugs.

    This has all been thoroughly explored in this thread.

    Leave a comment:


  • Aaron
    replied
    logging in

    Originally posted by Ghst View Post
    Also can admin fix it where I don't have to keep constantly signing in. I have to sign in every time change page. (When I go to a thread, reply to a thread and when I submit my reply to a thread) Thanks
    Ghst,

    When you sign in with name/pw, click the box that says something like "Remember Me" and it should remember. Do you have cookies enabled? If not, it might not remember...if it is a cookie system that is.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ghst
    replied
    Green Burst?

    I know, I know your gonna say that thats a blue burst. But I said what I saw. All I can see when this happens is the bright center poof. And It does have a green tint to it. Seriously something is going screwy with the color. The backdrop in this photo is white. Here it is tho, in all its glory!



    Last edited by Ghst; 03-15-2009, 06:40 PM.

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  • Matthew Jones
    replied
    High frequency electricity causes a green spark across 2 copper contacts.
    Its the effect the oxidation has on the flame or somthing.
    If you doubt me make a communtator for pulse motor and use a copper to copper contact (Instead of a carbon brush).

    Matt

    Leave a comment:


  • boguslaw
    replied
    Originally posted by Ghst View Post
    This is the way I'm getting the Green spark ,but again its not happening inside the CSET. Only where I touch the connection on each side of my load coil.



    Also can admin fix it where I don't have to keep constantly signing in. I have to sign in every time change page. (When I go to a thread, reply to a thread and when I submit my reply to a thread) Thanks
    NICE! If you put your coil closer to cset and in the form of pancake coil you will get crude Tesla coil (original)
    I think you can also charge cap with one wire using a good diode across cap terminals and negative terminal grounded.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ghst
    replied
    This is the way I'm getting the Green spark ,but again its not happening inside the CSET. Only where I touch the connection on each side of my load coil.



    Also can admin fix it where I don't have to keep constantly signing in. I have to sign in every time change page. (When I go to a thread, reply to a thread and when I submit my reply to a thread) Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • Aaron
    replied
    schematic and metals

    Hi Ghst,

    I'd also love to see your schematic...I see what you're saying but a picture just does so much more.

    Also, the copper won't make a difference with the correct setup...it is what we make the potentials do and not what the metal is made of...just needs to be something that conducts pretty good...it can happen with everything from iron nails to copper to galvanized steel to brass, anodized aluminum and various spark plug metal alloys...I've used all these metals.

    Leave a comment:


  • martin
    replied
    Electrotek, yes, according to the patent but that is the only thing that I know of that would bear any resemblance of a cset on the motor. Do you know of anything else that might be a cset that he could be referring to?

    Ghst, your experiment sounds promising. How fast did the capacitor charge? Can you post a schematic so we can see exactly what's going on? Good job!
    Last edited by martin; 03-15-2009, 05:05 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ghst
    replied
    Tonight I tried something different. I attached my grid wire to one wire of a load coil then attached the other wire of the load coil to one post of a canister microwave oven capacitor (1750 VAC 1.6 uf). On the other post of the capacitor, I attached a microwave oven diode pointing away from the capacitor, and wired the diode to the 12V positive post on my ignition coil. With the low voltage disconnected from the the CSET, I could charge the microwaveoven cap, at least I got a meter reading of 768V DC. I could not discharge the cap into the CSET. But I could touch a 12V dc jumper wire to the coil and Cset connection and get a weak but green puff or silent spark at that connection. I could also get a more powerful green discharge touching the connection between the capacitor and the coil. very bright but about marble sized and with a audible "POP". But I cannot get this effect to happen inside my CSET. Might be because I have no copper inside my CSET at all. the grids are a expanded metal mesh I have two grids one a tube about the size of a dime. the other is about one and a half inches in diameter. And the electrodes are square steel with a gold plating . 1/8 inches by about 8 inches long. It could be that the discharge is happening inside the CSET but if it is, its Bright blue or white. That gold plated electrode just does some allsome sparking and flashing!

    Here is a link to the Motor CSET photo.
    Last edited by Ghst; 03-15-2009, 04:48 AM.

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  • Electrotek
    replied
    Originally posted by martin View Post
    Electrotek, This may be what he's talking about.
    Isn't that the commutator? And you may be right about the ignition coil.

    Leave a comment:


  • martin
    replied
    Motor CSET

    Electrotek, This may be what he's talking about.
    Last edited by martin; 10-06-2009, 04:41 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • martin
    replied
    Hey, this coil sure does resemble what's inbetween the battery and black box. This is a vintage Mallory 501 coil.
    Last edited by martin; 10-06-2009, 04:41 AM.

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  • martin
    replied
    Originally posted by Electrotek View Post
    I didn't hear of it; I just said that's what I think. This was based on the fact that some appliances, such as TV's, require a specific supply voltage for the circuits and components to operate correctly. Or at all.
    I understand. Now that you mention it he may have been referring to the high internal working voltage and stepping it down to 120v. That would make sense.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ghst
    replied
    PVC on Battery Box

    Upon further investigation I have concluded that the PVC on the Battery Box is the motors shaft cap what has EMA on it. But the other thing is probably a CSET. The vertical PVC pipe thing on the battery box, is only seen in the pictures with the motor shaft removed.

    Leave a comment:


  • Electrotek
    replied
    Ghst: That pipe on the battery box looks like the same thing in your picture. It could be a CSET. But in your picture, it has six wires. Something to think about.

    Leave a comment:

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