Gray Tube Replication

[Electrotek]

Undiscovered Article

Here's a picture which shows a couple of things. The green square at the bottom has what looks like a automotive distributor. If so, maybe Gray did use this in his circuit? The green rectangle at the top has an article I read when I was a kid, back in the 70's. It shows Gray with his electric car, with the hood up. In the picture, I saw cross arms at 90 degrees, about 18" long and around 2" X 3/4". I had the impression there were four cross arms. On the end of each arm was a bobbin coil which was about the size of a spool of #14 AWG wire, wrapped with small gauge magnet wire. I didn't see a stator coil anywhere. In the article, Gray said he was sending a radar pulse through the motor and when it reflected back, he put it back into the battery.

I haven't seen this article anywhere on the Internet. It said he was getting 250 miles with just two batteries.

[Ghst]

@ghst

this sounds really interesting...can you make a video of it?

No! Not yet, I have some more things to tryout. Whats interesting to me is after the cap discharges the magnetic effect is gone.

[nat1971a]

@ghst

this sounds really interesting...can you make a video of it?

[Ghst]

Well Its curve Ball time! Let me pitch this to you. Remember I said I couldn't get the Discharge to happen inside the tube? Well , It did! And check out how I got it to happen. I hooked every thing up as before. but this time I connected the capacitor to the negative on the ignition coil. I connected 12V positive to the lowvoltage electrode with diodes arrows pointing toward the tube. Now the capacitor was charging Highvoltage was jumping to the grid. also I would get a few sparks to jump the gap into the low voltage side. Now I still couldn't get the capacitor to discharge inside the tube. So I connected a jumper wire like a branch between the load coil and off the grid wire. When the capacitor had charged this time It was over 1000V, I would touch off a puff spark to the low voltage. But but by accident, I let the alligator clip come into contact with the outside of the plactis tubes container and it was magnetically attracted to the grid because it stuck to the outside of the tube.Thats when It happened. a very fast bright flash from inside the tube and I heard the capacitor pop. The flash was either Blue or Green I'm not sure it happens so fast, but it was very bright. I let the capacitor start charging again and layed the clip on top of the tube and It did it again. I can actually feel the tube attracting the metal clip.

[Electrotek]

3. When cap is at 700+ volts and assuming that the ignition coil is constantly pulsing - close the lv switch and the cap should collide with the HV pulse and move to the common ground at the LV side.

Aaron:
I think I finally figured it out. When the two potentials collide and move to the common ground, they're moving in opposite directions. This results in magnetic cancellation, and the Lorentz force disappears. Without this force, the plasma in the arc is free to expand due to heat and coulombic repulsion. The same thing happens when an electrical panel is shorted, because the two phases - which are seldom at the same potential - have a common ground at the bottom of the transformer.

It took me long enough. I always did think that spark was somehow Scalar. Now I can move on to something else. Thanks for your input.

[martin]

More wood.

@everyone

Well, just to throw another piece of wood on the fire....

The coils in this pic do not look like the regular "popping" coils in his demo's. It actually looks like the popping coil is inside the larger gauge wire or am I seeing something else? Whatever's in the middle sure looks like it's not sticking out past the larger windings.

[martin]

No Martin! No! this is what Looks like a diode in my enhanced photo .If you click on this photo to enlarge it you can even see the end of what looks like a spade connector coming out of the CSET!

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/8742/2supplies.jpg

This is the photo of the motor with what looks like a CSET hanging below the front of the motor and just over the top of the battery box.

http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/391/gray002copy.jpg

Does'nt it look like a small CSET?

Ok, I think I see the connector, small shiny dot on the cset, but I still don't see a diode. Can you circle it?

Yes, It could be a cset hanging above the batteries, it just looks a little small to me for the size of the apparatus. If you look closely at it, it looks like there are 2 slots in the end.

[Ghst]

Here's a shot that I enhanced. It kind of looks like where the violet arrow is where the black cable from the cset is hooked to. If you follow the loop in a complete circle, it looks like it comes back up beside the cable and ends at the yellow arrow. There's something where the blue arrow is, but I cant see if it connects to the loop or not.

Yip, I see the tubular thing hanging there however, I'm not sure if it is a cset. I'm leaning towards not. If it is, it's really small compared to the other cset's pictured with his other motors and demo's.

No Martin! No! this is what Looks like a diode in my enhanced photo .If you click on this photo to enlarge it you can even see the end of what looks like a spade connector coming out of the CSET!

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/8742/2supplies.jpg

This is the photo of the motor with what looks like a CSET hanging below the front of the motor and just over the top of the battery box.

http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/391/gray002copy.jpg

Does'nt it look like a small CSET?

[Aaron]

copper green

Aaron
I just thought I would mention it seeing as how he has 2 coppers wire. If its still green through steel...well enough said.

Matt

Matt,

It could be from copper in his case but we'll know for sure when the circuit is hooked up optimally and it happens where it is supposed to.

[martin]

Here's a shot that I enhanced. It kind of looks like where the violet arrow is where the black cable from the cset is hooked to. If you follow the loop in a complete circle, it looks like it comes back up beside the cable and ends at the yellow arrow. There's something where the blue arrow is, but I cant see if it connects to the loop or not.

Yip, I see the tubular thing hanging there however, I'm not sure if it is a cset. I'm leaning towards not. If it is, it's really small compared to the other cset's pictured with his other motors and demo's.

[Ghst]

Looped Wire

It looks like to me that that wire loop is coming out of the top of the CSET, making a loop (like a antenna ) and going back into the CSET.

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/8742/2supplies.jpg

[Ghst]

Electrotek, or anyone...

The motor looks like it used 2 different size cables as well, like there's windings between the FFF cables. Any thoughts?

Here is a link to a enhanced photo of the CSET Also notice the wire loop in the background. Is that a diode In the wire?

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/8742/2supplies.jpg

Martin, did you look at the photo link I posted earlier of what appears to be a CSET dangling from the motor hanging over the Battery Box? here is the link again. http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/391/gray002copy.jpg

[Matthew Jones]

Aaron
I just thought I would mention it seeing as how he has 2 coppers wire. If its still green through steel...well enough said.

Matt

[martin]

Electrotek, or anyone...

The motor looks like it used 2 different size cables as well, like there's windings between the FFF cables. Any thoughts?

[Aaron]

@ghst

This is the way I'm getting the Green spark ,but again its not happening inside the CSET. Only where I touch the connection on each side of my load coil.

http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/4...eoutsideth.jpg

The lead coming from the cap to the ignition coil should be going to the ground on the ignition coil and not the positive. The cap will still charge with the lv switch open.

You shouldn't need a separate lead from the ignition coil coming to the cap or back side of coil. Defeats the purpose of tube.

768 volts is plenty to get the event inside the tube.

You get a small discharge on the grid side of the coil because you're simply short circuit the capacitor through two coils...the ignition coil primary and the load coil.

You get a big discharge as you indicate because you're simply shorting the capacitor through one coil and not two...the primary of the ignition coil.

1. Anyway, put the lead from the cap going to the positive of the ignition coil and move it to the ground of the ignition coil.

2. Leave switch at LV side open and your cap will charge.

3. When cap is at 700+ volts and assuming that the ignition coil is constantly pulsing - close the lv switch and the cap should collide with the HV pulse and move to the common ground at the LV side.

It would be helpful if you filled in all the connections at the LV side - how the diode is connected to the LV source, etc... what circuit is pulsing your ignition coil, etc...

Also, just to make it work, you don't need the diode at the LV side...you just have to take the LV rod and make it go to ground when you close the switch...that is the easiest way to do it...then after you get that working, you can deal with adding the diode, lv source for some recovery, etc...