Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator Video

[**~Imhotep~**]

It does look sound, and quite possibly work. If the timing was correct. Which you will have to experiment with. I have been told that spiking the source battery in most cases is a no-no tho, but you might be the one to show us all how its done, so dont let that stop you from trying. Never give up. And if you get great results by all means please sure this is your guys circuit now. Im hoping the expansion goes like crazy. And who knows maybe it will be the way all of us get some ultra efficent lighting for emergencys or possibly for living.


ps: ill be saving the circuit, im working on many different fe projects, and will be releasing many more. all expansions or improvements that ppl do on my circuits ill will love replicating myself.
The fan, the light, the soon to be released oscillator and the future power factor correction, telsa earth batteries, newman motors, evgray motors, ect ect. They are all being worked on as quickly as i can and i will be holding nothing back. All of you guys helping with expansions is excellent.

Imhotep,

thanks for the reply, I'm clear now.

I also wonder if the circuit below is sound or not. It is really simple, we charge a capacitor from the inductive kick and then switch back to discharge it on our primary battery.

I suppose the capacitor would have to be a fast one, camera flash one for example, but the principle is what interests me now.

[**~Imhotep~**]

And dont forget to thank Peter Lindemann none of this would have been possibly without his help in testing and inspiration. he is the master.

[Peter Lindemann]

Great Video!

Hi. I made a replication and it works great!!!! See my video at my Lidmotor channel at Youtube. YouTube - Imhotep Radiant Oscillator --my replication . Thanks go out to everyone envolved. This is a real winner.

Lidmotor,

Great replication! I loved your "dimmer" modification. Can you show us where you put the reostat to get the dimmer effect? Your whole schematic would be great.... and the recipe for Mrs. Field's Chocolate Chip Cookies, too!

Thanks again.

OK, everybody else, nobody has ever shown lighting a light and charging a battery at the same time. Like I said before, Imhotep IS the next "future legend"! I tried a lot of variations on this circuit and NOTHING worked better than Imhotep's circuit with the relay. Imhotep has come up with something awesome, and Lidmotor shows how simple it is to replicate if you follow the directions exactly.

Are we having fun, yet?

Peter

[Lidmotor]

Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator

Peter, Thank you for the nice comment . You are the master of this realm. I have studied your work and decided to build Imhotep's oscillator right away after I found out that you had been involved in it's development. This thing is amazing! A big thank you goes out to you and everyone else who helped out here. The dimmer rheostat was added to try and control the amp draw and it was an accident that it actually dimmed the light. It goes in the + lead of the drive battery. It gets hot so maybe it is not such a great idea. The rest of the circuit is pure Imhotep. I really agree with you about people following the design exactly. You can play with it after you get it working. I learned that from my SSG project. Lidmotor

[Aaron]

Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator

I made the basic version a while back before the release and it worked as claimed and when following Imhotep's instructions exactly, it is hard to not get it to work.

I used some cheap Radio Shack relay and with my testing, I badly abuse my parts...sometimes I had to flick the side of the relay to get it going again but again...I'm not delicate with my testing.

The concept of this circuit can do a lot!

[elias]

High amp draw

I finally built the unit but the result was less than impressive.
I used a 100uF 450V capacitor instead of a condensor which I did not have, and my coil's primary is 3.1ohms and secondary around 10000 ohms pretty near the values Imhotep's coils has. I used a 12V relay, because I did not have a 9 volt one and the resistance of its coils was about 420 ohms pretty near Imhotep's. I used a 40W tube for the output coil.

The current draw from the 12V battery was around 1.3 amps and the current into the charging battery was about 10mA. The brightness of the tube was less than the experiment I did before with a mosfet. When I tuned my circuit it could light the tube with out wires or even one wire only, but this circuit does not behave like this, I wonder if I have not done something right?

The schematic is exactly the same as Imhoteps except the condensor and the 12V relay.

I wonder how to reduce the current draw?

Edit: I attached a photo of the running light + the relay

[**~Imhotep~**]

I finally built the unit but the result was less than impressive.
I used a 100uF 450V capacitor instead of a condensor which I did not have, and my coil's primary is 3.1ohms and secondary around 10000 ohms pretty near the values Imhotep's coils has. I used a 12V relay, because I did not have a 9 volt one and the resistance of its coils was about 420 ohms pretty near Imhotep's. I used a 40W tube for the output coil.

The current draw from the 12V battery was around 1.3 amps and the current into the charging battery was about 10mA. The brightness of the tube was less than the experiment I did before with a mosfet. When I tuned my circuit it could light the tube with out wires or even one wire only, but this circuit does not behave like this, I wonder if I have not done something right?

The schematic is exactly the same as Imhoteps except the condensor and the 12V relay.

I wonder how to reduce the current draw?

Edit: I attached a photo of the running light + the relay

i liked your fet idea nice low current draw .
i was not able to get specs on condensers for point systems and i searched all over the net ,so people could sub a cap .maybe someone can find the specs and post a sub .
i actually had the best low current draw from obsolete relays from radio shack as well as a few from nap tvs from the 70's but peters choice was a good sub but drew a little more current. as the bulb warmed up the current draw dropped be low 1 amp and charge current went up and had good spikes on scope . have fun with modifications ,i have many more releases coming soon !!!

[Lidmotor]

Re: High Amp Draw

Elias, I am having the same situation with too high an amp draw. That was why I installed the rheostat in the + side of the drive circuit. It helped but gets hot. Peter and Imhotep---- SOS. . My replication does, however, charge really well. I used a 50 volt 1amp diode because I had one and it seems to work fine. This back spike charging is hard to measure as I found out with the SSG project. An ammeter does not tell you the whole story. The impedance matching between the relay coil and the car ignition coil is someting that I don't quite understand either. I may try triggering the ignition coil using a reed switch next to my SSG wheel to try and reduce the amp draw. This thing reminds me of a Model T Ford spark coil that I used to play with as a kid. It buzzed like this and made lots of big sparks.

[**~Imhotep~**]

get used to relays the next release draws 30 ma and spikes a charge battery (remember you want the spikes for conditioning batts) only 3 parts and costs 8 $ easiest build ever

[elias]

i liked your fet idea nice low current draw .
i was not able to get specs on condensers for point systems and i searched all over the net ,so people could sub a cap .maybe someone can find the specs and post a sub .
i actually had the best low current draw from obsolete relays from radio shack as well as a few from nap tvs from the 70's but peters choice was a good sub but drew a little more current. as the bulb warmed up the current draw dropped be low 1 amp and charge current went up and had good spikes on scope . have fun with modifications ,i have many more releases coming soon !!!

So current draw of 1.2 - 1.3 amps is ordinary for this circuit? The other problem was the flickering of the tube, is this normal too?

Yes the current draw drops after warming up a bit. And i used 16W bulb and the light was good! It is drawing about 1amp at 12V.

Thanks for the circuit, the experiment was interesting although it needs some work for making it something useful for lighting the house.

Looking forward for more circuits!

[elias]

Elias, I am having the same situation with too high an amp draw. That was why I installed the rheostat in the + side of the drive circuit. It helped but gets hot. Peter and Imhotep---- SOS. . My replication does, however, charge really well. I used a 50 volt 1amp diode because I had one and it seems to work fine. This back spike charging is hard to measure as I found out with the SSG project. An ammeter does not tell you the whole story. The impedance matching between the relay coil and the car ignition coil is someting that I don't quite understand either. I may try triggering the ignition coil using a reed switch next to my SSG wheel to try and reduce the amp draw. This thing reminds me of a Model T Ford spark coil that I used to play with as a kid. It buzzed like this and made lots of big sparks.

Yes I almost forgot the spikes are charging the battery!!
Thanks for reminding.

[**~Imhotep~**]

elias, i understand your concern about the amp drw, but this is how you need to look at it:

Your using a 16 watts bulb, without power factor correcting what you are paying for it actually 32 watts, (which 32 watts divided by 120 volts is 3.75 amps, thats what your paying the power company to normally run these bulbs)

Now you have dropped it down to only 1 amp. So thats a 50 to 70 percent savings PLUS your charging a battery. If you properly impedance match through experimentation you might even get it lower than that.

The flickering did not occur with my bulb because after it warmed up it leveled off, also i have removed the 1500 volt capacitor and put it in between one of the leads on each side of the tube and only used one wire on each side of the tube to go to the 110 volt socket, i did not disclose that fact so the circuit would be less complicated and easier to replicate, but on the movie of altering the cfl i told everyone to save the circuit because the final end of that circuit has some hv caps and chokes that you can utilize to smooth out the flicker, the warm up time, and the lasting ability of the bulb.


Later on today i will take some pictures of my original relay that i used that had the VERY low current draw, maybe somebody somewhere can find them and match them. Unfort i only have 4 total and after they are gone i cant find them anywhere. But the circuit does work good and if you factor in the charging and the power savings if my math is correct its a worthwhile circuit to build and future projects as EV gray did will utilize this concept. Stay tuned. It does get better

Good luck

[Peter Lindemann]

Ford Model T "Buzz Coil"

Elias, I am having the same situation with too high an amp draw. That was why I installed the rheostat in the + side of the drive circuit. It helped but gets hot. Peter and Imhotep---- SOS. . My replication does, however, charge really well. I used a 50 volt 1amp diode because I had one and it seems to work fine. This back spike charging is hard to measure as I found out with the SSG project. An ammeter does not tell you the whole story. The impedance matching between the relay coil and the car ignition coil is someting that I don't quite understand either. I may try triggering the ignition coil using a reed switch next to my SSG wheel to try and reduce the amp draw. This thing reminds me of a Model T Ford spark coil that I used to play with as a kid. It buzzed like this and made lots of big sparks.

Lidmotor,

Just by chance, I have a Ford Model T Buzz Coil at my shop. It draws .8 amps when run on a 6 volt battery, just 4.8 watts. It will easily throw continuous FIRE over 10mm! I thought, for sure, this thing will light the light. BLAH. It lights a "26 watt" bulb to about half brightness, but only makes the "42 watt" bulb glow a pathetic orange.

The T Coil's secondary coil has an impedance of about 3,800 ohms, whereas the Camaro ignition coil has a secondary impedance of about 10,000 ohms. The system needs to have the right characteristics to develop a high voltage "shock wave" across the tube. For the fluorescent tube to light, the Mercury vapor must produce it's characteristic hard UV emission, otherwise the phosphors won't "light up". The standard way is to ionize the gas and pass a bunch of current across it. Tesla's way was to send a high voltage "shock wave" through the gas, and limit the current to the absolute minimum.

When everything is balanced just right, Imhotep's circuit is remarkably effective at lighting the light AND recovering the "unused" energy of the inductive collapse. Even Tesla wasn't recovering the unused energy from his lights!

Keep up the great work!

Peter

[**~Imhotep~**]

I couldnt have said it better, thats why i am so appreciative of your help in this project. you are the master

Lidmotor,

Just by chance, I have a Ford Model T Buzz Coil at my shop. It draws .8 amps when run on a 6 volt battery, just 4.8 watts. It will easily throw continuous FIRE over 10mm! I thought, for sure, this thing will light the light. BLAH. It lights a "26 watt" bulb to about half brightness, but only makes the "42 watt" bulb glow a pathetic orange.

The T Coil's secondary coil has an impedance of about 3,800 ohms, whereas the Camaro ignition coil has a secondary impedance of about 10,000 ohms. The system needs to have the right characteristics to develop a high voltage "shock wave" across the tube. For the fluorescent tube to light, the Mercury vapor must produce it's characteristic hard UV emission, otherwise the phosphors won't "light up". The standard way is to ionize the gas and pass a bunch of current across it. Tesla's way was to send a high voltage "shock wave" through the gas, and limit the current to the absolute minimum.

When everything is balanced just right, Imhotep's circuit is remarkably effective at lighting the light AND recovering the "unused" energy of the inductive collapse. Even Tesla wasn't recovering the unused energy from his lights!

Keep up the great work!

Peter

[nestor]

Dear Imhotep,
thank you for releasing this. I am eager to replicate this circuit. I have another condenser-related question. I think I could easily find a capacitor suitable for the job if I knew the use of those condensers intended by the manufacturer. Sorry for the stupid question, but I dont live in an English-speaking country, but could you give a short explanation about what this condenser originally served for. If I knew what exactly the "tune-up kit" you mentioned is supposed to tune-up,I could certainly figure out a capacitor that meets the reqirements. Thank you very much.