Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator Video

[**~Imhotep~**]

Thedude my condolences also on the loss of your cat. I lost a dog last year and it was hard. Imhotep and Aaron please do consider keeping this thread going straight ahead as an IROL project. Specifically consider the people like myself who know somethings but are a little "electronics challenged". I am starting to get messages from people on Youtube who have seen the videos and want to build this but don't even have a clue where to get the parts or where to begin. I'm sure many people come here looking for the answers.
Thanks Peter for explaining about the digital meters and how they work. Also for telling about your work with JB and what you discovered. I see this project as a possible proof to the world of some interesting phenomenon. People have a hard time relating to a bunch of spinning magnets on a wheel but show them a standard CFL that lights up on miliamps and can run for hours on a couple of AA 12v battery packs and they get real interested.

Lidmotor

I agree we want to keep things going straight for those who are new. But I do believe the pf correction is a important topic. And it does need its own thread.

Lidmotor I would not say at all that your "electronics challenged" Your work on this project has been astonishing. You have taken this project to above and beyond what I ever thought it could do. Including making it completely portable for that you deserve

And yes I have noticed this and the fan seems to really keep everyone interested. You are not only learning concepts not taught in the schools but you are also getting some kind of work out of your learning. With the fan you get airflow and charging abilities and with the IROL you get extremely efficient lighting and charging ability,

We ourselves are working on combining both the fan and the light in a boxed portable unit. Great for emergencies. As the storms are rolling through we will have light and cooling as well as keeping our batteries charged for our entertainment Also I will be adding a solar panel to the unit as you had did earlier.

[Bodkins]

Hello,

I just wanted to say that I am in the process of building an IROL. Ashtweth brought this great useful discovery to my attention and sent me some stuff. I wrote Lidmotor on the youtube after watching his videos and realizing he is in the U.S. I want to build self contained units for an agricultural village that I am building here in Mexico. This is a need for us down here. I have been looking up the prices of solar panels and found some cheap 5 watt panels on ebay that I might order. I am waiting a minute to see what all you smart jokers come up with. All I can do is get a list and a schematic and take it to my electronic friend to get it cranked up. So not much to contribute besides that I will put this to good use down here with the Aztecs and Totonacos. I will put together the original and go from there. Thanks for letting me and others benefit from all the work put into this. One quick question? What is the final word on the buzzing relay is the 555 better and does not buzz or what is the best way at this point?




Jason

I agree we want to keep things going straight for those who are new. But I do believe the pf correction is a important topic. And it does need its own thread.

Lidmotor I would not say at all that your "electronics challenged" Your work on this project has been astonishing. You have taken this project to above and beyond what I ever thought it could do. Including making it completely portable for that you deserve

And yes I have noticed this and the fan seems to really keep everyone interested. You are not only learning concepts not taught in the schools but you are also getting some kind of work out of your learning. With the fan you get airflow and charging abilities and with the IROL you get extremely efficient lighting and charging ability,

We ourselves are working on combining both the fan and the light in a boxed portable unit. Great for emergencies. As the storms are rolling through we will have light and cooling as well as keeping our batteries charged for our entertainment Also I will be adding a solar panel to the unit as you had did earlier.

hi jason
The 555 will need input power. i never build the relay only 555 and 555 square wave is hard to get 50/50 cycle.
what im doing now is using the fan as a oscillaton, think about fan charge on is own. add a light bingo!! its opens alot of ways for us to move forward.
good luck.




same idea imhotep seting up a 24v fan running on 27v (3x9volt) charging 3 in parall. trying to find the idea frequency for the fan to charge at then adding the light with ajustment to same frequency to original fan only setup. got a pulse chargingworking thanks to Ren

Lidmotor what you talking about your a star!!!!!"electronics challenged" no way!!not in our electronics you not!!!!
sorry to here about the cat dude:-{

ps if you remeber the reed switch thing i was playing with i this is the same effect.

YouTube - Free Electrical Energy

[Lidmotor]

IROL fan design

Thanks everyone for saying that I'm not "electronics challenged". We sometimes see ourselves differently than others. Ok so I'm not stupid. Ren - now how does that cap pulser work again?
Imhotep and Bodkins I'm going to build the fan model now and this is why: My sister has a problem with getting hot on warm days. She liked my LB model mainly because I showed in one of my videos that you could plug a 12V fan into the side of it. So why not make the whole thing a fan. Makes perfect sense. Run the fan when you need air or just let it self oscillate when you don't and just use the light. (not note worthy--Sun powered IROL making a breeze)

Lidmotor

[anut]

I have tried this one. It works as expected. But can we extend the idea, say to power other appliances? Can we modify the circuit so that it can power a electric kettle, a motor or the like?

[Bodkins]

Some notes on the Imhotep CFL circuit discussion:

I came to this site because it was cited in an article by Steve Windlisch about power factor correction in US CFL lamps which has received wide circulation on the Internet. See my comments on that article in another post on this same thread.

Being inspired by the research done by the scientists here, I decided to dig around through the junk box and scrape together a replication of the Imhotep project. I also found some other solid state high voltage components which will light CFLs and which are discussed in another posting. These are my comments specifically on my Imhotep replication efforts to date..

1) I had a ‘coil buzzer’ circuit already built, left over from another project. That unit uses a more conventional circuit than the circuit of Imhotep. See the drawing ‘circuits’. In my buzzer circuit, the relay stands alone as a buzzer and
any load or no load can be connected across the relay coil. The relay will buzz regardless of load. Despite what has been said elsewhere in this discussion the basic circuit described by Imhotep WILL NOT buzz unless the load is connected.
The key point here (IMO) is that the Imhotep circuit has the load connected in series with the buzzer instead of in parallel with the buzzer coil. The key difference is that in the conventional circuit the ignition coil sees an open circuit at the buzzer when the buzzer is ‘off’, but in Imhotep’s circuit there is never an open circuit. Even when the buzzer contacts are open there is still a current path through the relay coil. Experimental evidence does indicate that the Imhotep circuit has some advantages in terms of current consumption:

Bubba Hotep Imhotep w/lamp in relay circuit Imhotep no lamp
10.5A 5.5A 7.3A sparking
5.1A 4.1A 1.4A no load
2.3A 1.5A 1.65A 1 wire CFL
1.61A 1.47A 1.59-1.34 2 wire CFL

I cannot explain the larger currents I recorded compared with those reported by others here, except that I have a really cheap digital meter which may be reading peak amps instead of RMS. Since my power supply is only rated for 2.5A at 12V, it seems unlikely that these are accurate RMS readings.

It remains to be seen which circuit provides the stronger energy recovery pulse. In the absence of experimental evidence, my guess would be that the conventional circuit will give a stronger ‘kick’ to the energy recovery circuit.

Note that all of the solid state circuits discussed here operate more like the conventional circuit than like the Imhotep circuit in that they switch the + lead to the coil and approach open circuit conditions when the output is switched off.

2) Values of my components:
Relay: Bosch automotive relay 0832204107 80 ohm coil
Coil: Klitz G52S primary 4 ohms secondary 12k ohms
Condenser: .5uf 360V automotive style, originally used with this coil
The low coil resistance compared to the components recommended by imhotep clearly contributes to higher current consumption in the conventional circuit, and may impair proper operation of the Imhotep circuit in some subtle way.

3) Light and Sparks: This coil puts out a hefty spark when connected in either configuration. Copious quantities of ozone are produced. In two wire mode the CFL is lit to what appears to be close to normal brightness by either circuit. With either circuit adding another lamp does not appear to result in greater total light output, but this is hard to judge by eye. With the Imhotep circuit including the lamp in series with the relay, the relay noise quiets down considerably when the two wire CFL is connected to the circuit. Current readings fluctuated to a much greater extent with the 2 wire CFL connected.
Remember, ozone is not particularly good for a person in chronic exposure at levels high enough to smell. It will also prematurely age any rubber parts you may have in your shop.

4) Resonance effects: There has not been much discussion here of resonance effects and tuning the ignition coil/condenser combination to any particular operating frequency. It would seem to be advantageous to create a parallel resonant circuit, consisting of the ignition coil primary and the condenser, which is tuned to the operating frequency of the buzzer. A parallel resonant circuit approaches infinite impedance at resonance. My preliminary attempts to gauge the effect of increased capacitance were unsuccessful since the relay contacts welded as soon as I connected a moderate size (4.5uf) oil filled motor run capacitor in parallel with the ignition coil primary. It might also be desirable to resonate at some higher harmonic of the buzzer frequency, but note that automotive ignition coils suffer significant losses above 1000 Hz or so. Resonance of the ignition coil secondary as inductor and CFL as capacitor may account for the reduced buzzer noise I and others have noted when the CFL is connected as a two wire device to the output.

5) Harmonics: The square wave signal applied to the ignition coil by either the buzzer or the solid state interrupters is rich in harmonic frequencies. It is not clear (at least to me) how much of the effect of lighting the gas in the CFL, especially in one-wire mode is due to higher frequency effects and how much to the fundamental.

6) A note on capacitors used in these circuits: Any capacitors used in these circuits (including the arc quench capacitor across the relay coil) need to have a voltage rating exceeding the maximum voltage of the spikes by a good safety factor, otherwise the capacitors will be quickly destroyed. Note that the automotive condenser which was originally specified to operate with my coil is rated 0.5uf at 360V, even though this was intended to operate from a car 12V system. The same applies to any solid state components used to switch highly inductive loads – they will see the full voltage of the spike which is generated when the coil is switched off, and must be rated accordingly.

7) I do realize that the whole point of all this is the energy recovery circuit, which I have not tested at all yet due to lack of a suitable battery, and which has been deleted from the circuit diagrams I provide.

KGround
Great write sir lots of info
i never build the relay but understood that the relay coil being off for the connect may a source off extra energy.
more reshearch need to be done on the posabilty it adds to the setup?
i dont have a condeser my lights are turning orange over time this maybe the problem.
Take Care

[Soldyur]

okay

Thanks Bodkins I am going to get to my friends shop with the stuff and let him get me up to speed.

Jason

[kniteowl]

Howdy,

I was surfing the Net for some Tesla information and came up this page:

A simple inverter for flourescent lamps

Looks similar to what Imhotep did except for the solid state circuitry...and it was done in 2001. Were we asleep for seven years waiting for Imhotep to wake us up

Like I stated before, 15 years ago, we built this in electronic class. Making a battery powered inverter is nothing new; this has been around for a long time.

What Imhotep did that was new, and most impressive is getting the current draw down to a very little, and recover energy back. This was something that was never thought of, and most like never even thought possible before. Definite hats off to Imhotep for coming up with these improvements/advancements.

[boguslaw]

May I ask what kind of output such inverter produce ? Squarewave or sinewave ?

[hh1341]

Cap

The cap Lidmotor has placed in the LB circuit is not working for me.(as seen in his vid, it sure is working for him, thanks Lid)

Caps that I have tried, snuff out the CFL.
Also, a second coil has not increased light output hardly at all.

This tuning is many stabs in the dark.

Has anyone worked out a procedure.

Carl

[ren]

Carl, same goes for me. I dont run with the cap over the Ignition coil either.

Something else I noted that dropped my amp draw about 150ma is that in my particular configuration I wired the globe with one end to the center of the IGN coil and the other to the negative terminal of the run battery. This dropped amp draw without affecting charging rate OR light output.

I currently have the second unit running off 24 (or 36) volts, with the third wire of the oscillator going to bridge and the IGN coil going to bridge as well. 2203.3 uF as caps, full cap pulser on the back end. 20w light is enough to illuminate the room I am in from total darkness to workable conditions. Even better on 24v. Amp draw is 100-400ma on 12v, 500-600ma on 24v.

Bodkins, good to see you got it working! Let us know how it performs!

[hh1341]

Ren's circuit

Ren,

Are you getting close to a final config?

When you do, can you post a schematic of the circuit, it sounds like a winner.

Carl

[ren]

Here you go.

Note the Fluro doesnt join back to the ignition coil terminal.

Refer to previous posts and other threads if clarification is needed for the cap pulser (i.e. 555/opto/SCR).

[Lidmotor]

Caps in the IROL

The cap Lidmotor has placed in the LB circuit is not working for me.(as seen in his vid, it sure is working for him, thanks Lid)

Caps that I have tried, snuff out the CFL.
Also, a second coil has not increased light output hardly at all.

This tuning is many stabs in the dark.

Has anyone worked out a procedure.

Carl

Hey guys I don't know why my LB circuit does what it does. The caps on the coils were supposed to help the relay contacts from burning (like the snubber on the relay) I guess and with the Bedini circuit instead of the relay they probably are not necessary. The big cap that I put in between the relay and the rheostat made the Cfl brighter but on the fan Bedini (that I just made) it just kills it ??? The reason for the 2 coils was to get brightness and was something that Waterhouse 24 came up with and diagramed. After I got the Bedini circuit into the main circuit, all the 2coils seemed to accomplish was to make it easier to light multiple bulbs. The fan unit that I'm putting together now will have just one coil. Tuning this thing is easier if you use a radio to listen to the frequency. Start with the dials turned down and work up. Watch your ammeter and try for the most brightness with the least amps. See what is happening on the charge side and turn the dials up until you get enough punch to make things happen on the back end. I think that Ren's latest circuit is the one to use now as it seems to get the best results.

Lidmotor

[hh1341]

Note the Fluro doesnt join back to the ignition coil terminal.

Refer to previous posts and other threads if clarification is needed for the cap pulser (i.e. 555/opto/SCR).

Thanks Ren for the schematic

Thanks Lid for the procedure

Carl

[Bodkins]

Note the Fluro doesnt join back to the ignition coil terminal.

Refer to previous posts and other threads if clarification is needed for the cap pulser (i.e. 555/opto/SCR).

that looking ace ren nice work!!!!
the cap pulse is as like you said to do!
get a simple one first so made one with a relay to understand how it works.