Electric Motor Secrets

[Peter Lindemann]

I've Told You Everything.......

Hi Peter

Can you tell us about your own attraction motor unit, perhaps post some pictures or numbers of energy recovery and mechanical output-dynamometer test. I'm sure everybody would like to see it, if it is not a problem.

Thanx

Dear Aladinlamp,

This forum has within it all of the physical designs and circuit diagrams for any qualified experimenter to build an electric motor with a COP>2. It is all right here! Jetijs and others have shown pictures of excellent machine designs. Lighty has contributed advanced switching circuits and I have shown how to recycle the power back to the front of the circuit, so power levels can be scaled up beyond where charging batteries is practical.

I do NOT plan to show anything more advanced than this. I have worked over 25 years on this technology, and I still plan to keep a few good ideas to myself, in case the world changes for the better.

Best wishes,

Peter

[aladinlamp]

Hi Peter

Can you tell us about your own attraction motor unit, perhaps post some pictures or numbers of energy recovery and mechanical output-dynamometer test. I'm sure everybody would like to see it, if it is not a problem.

Thanx

[Peter Lindemann]

You Can Achieve Anything if...

Hello All,

This is my first post.

I am interested in the possibility of applying a solenoid motor for use in an electric boat.

A horizontally opposed scotch yoke design appeals to me.

Having it push and pull on every stroke should make it equivalent to an 8 cylinder. (2 coils on each piston)

Peter, do you think 10 to 20 HP could be achieved?

Carl

Dear Carl,

Welcome to the forum. Yes, a 10 to 20 HP solenoid engine with a scotch-yoke drive can be built if you have the Money, Time, Skill, and Machine Tools necessary to do it.

It's a very ambitious project, though.

Peter

[hh1341]

Boat Motor

Hello All,

This is my first post.

I am interested in the possibility of applying a solenoid motor for use in an electric boat.

A horizontally opposed scotch yoke design appeals to me.

Having it push and pull on every stroke should make it equivalent to an 8 cylinder. (2 coils on each piston)

Peter, do you think 10 to 20 HP could be achieved?

Carl

[Peter Lindemann]

One more experiment

Thanx for the reply, Peter almighty. I thought on using the two transistor's for each coil and I'll do that in my next experiment for sure. I just wanted to try all this in very little time I had.
The dots on the coils, I used them to indicate that the poles are oposite on the electromagnets because it works better like that. I also tried to put these in series and it worked also ok and it draw about 45mA but the RPM is lower in that case and the torque as well. And it was also stalled by connecting the battery.
Whatever the case is, parallel or series configuration, the motor definitly works better when I have one N pole and one S pole towards the iron like on the picture.
The most important thing for me is that the motor works, and I am always seeing the SPIKES on the scope!
Also I need to make some of the FE machines so that I can persuade my father to begin research with me, he is great physics professor but he's been a bit sceptical about all that, but I think he is on his way!
I'll post the news as my experiments continue in a few days I hope.

Thanx again and forgive me for my bad English. Respect!

Dear Kokerich,

Your motor should not stall when the charge battery is connected. So, if it works the same way with the coils in parallel or series, then that only leaves two other possibilities. The first is that the diode is bad and is not blocking in the reverse direction properly, OR you have connected the second battery backwards by mistake. Please check these things. Make sure that the negative terminal of the charge battery has a direct connection to the positive terminal of the run battery. If everything checks out, replace the diode anyway, and check it again! The cathode of the diode should face the positive terminal of the charge battery. Your schematic shows the circuit the way it should be. Just make sure that your actual circuit conforms to it.

Connecting the charge battery to this circuit properly CAN NOT stall the motor.

Peter

[kokerich]

Oh my coil! ;-)

Thanx for the reply, Peter almighty. I thought on using the two transistor's for each coil and I'll do that in my next experiment for sure. I just wanted to try all this in very little time I had.
The dots on the coils, I used them to indicate that the poles are oposite on the electromagnets because it works better like that. I also tried to put these in series and it worked also ok and it draw about 45mA but the RPM is lower in that case and the torque as well. And it was also stalled by connecting the battery.
Whatever the case is, parallel or series configuration, the motor definitly works better when I have one N pole and one S pole towards the iron like on the picture.
The most important thing for me is that the motor works, and I am always seeing the SPIKES on the scope!
Also I need to make some of the FE machines so that I can persuade my father to begin research with me, he is great physics professor but he's been a bit sceptical about all that, but I think he is on his way!
I'll post the news as my experiments continue in a few days I hope.

Thanx again and forgive me for my bad English. Respect!

[Peter Lindemann]

Output Diode Reversed

Hi there!

Had a little time this weekend and decided to play around with the electromotor model that I found in one highschool cellar.

I converted it to an attraction motor removing the coils from the rotor, and adding a photosensor from an old computer mouse. I didn't want to wound any coils the stator had two already, I just used those.

I just wanted to see how the motor works. It started working at first start with no trouble. Here is what I founded by playing with it a little.
It works better when the elecltromagnets in oposing poles like on the picture.
I did't have a tachometer but it's clear that the rpm is higher and the tourque is larger. With the windings in paraler the current is bigger so it works faster. It drew a 100mA with the diode disconected, when shorted it draws a lot more, and when I added a resistor of about 18ohms it drew about 140mA and worked much quieter.
Also in every configuration there is a very little back emf.

The trouble is when I connected the secondary battery for charging. I connected one old car battery, it had a 10V so it wasn't completly dead, and the motor stalled. It seems it was too much load for it.
I was wondering if it is possible to charge a capacitor and then to quick discharge it every 2 seconds or so on the secondary battery like on the bedini's systems? Will it form a negative resistor?

Anyways I'm glad that the motor works, so I'm going to build a new one that should work better!

Dear Kokerich,

Nice set up. Thanks for verifying everything again, for those new to the forum. The question is, why did your motor stall when you connected the battery to the output coil? If your schematic diagram is correct, there may be a few things going on here. The nomenclature of your schematic shows the two coils connected in parallel, but also shows dots at opposite ends of the coils. These dots usually denote "same sense" to a set of transformer windings, but you have them wired together against this. So, first of all, I am not sure what this means.

Normally, in the circuits used in this forum, parallel windings like this are NOT used because they tend to allow the collapsing fields to discharge INTO EACH OTHER rather than into the output recovery circuit. This can cause the magnetic fields to collapse much more slowly so that they are not completely gone by the time the iron is due to leave the stator. This is what might be "stalling" your motor. Connected properly, your output battery CAN NOT slow the motor down. If you run each winding with its own transistor and then collect the collapsing field from each coil with its own diode, the motor should run just fine while charging your battery.

Keep up the great work.

Peter

[kokerich]

My first attraction motor.

Hi there!

Had a little time this weekend and decided to play around with the electromotor model that I found in one highschool cellar.

I converted it to an attraction motor removing the coils from the rotor, and adding a photosensor from an old computer mouse. I didn't want to wound any coils the stator had two already, I just used those.

I just wanted to see how the motor works. It started working at first start with no trouble. Here is what I founded by playing with it a little.
It works better when the elecltromagnets in oposing poles like on the picture.
I did't have a tachometer but it's clear that the rpm is higher and the tourque is larger. With the windings in paraler the current is bigger so it works faster. It drew a 100mA with the diode disconected, when shorted it draws a lot more, and when I added a resistor of about 18ohms it drew about 140mA and worked much quieter.
Also in every configuration there is a very little back emf.

The trouble is when I connected the secondary battery for charging. I connected one old car battery, it had a 10V so it wasn't completly dead, and the motor stalled. It seems it was too much load for it.
I was wondering if it is possible to charge a capacitor and then to quick discharge it every 2 seconds or so on the secondary battery like on the bedini's systems? Will it form a negative resistor?

Anyways I'm glad that the motor works, so I'm going to build a new one that should work better!

[aladinlamp]

Solenoid engine

Hi

what might be the best solution in solenoid engine design for piece of iron which is attracted to the center of the coil.
How to achieve minimum air gap between iron and coil and minimise friction between them?

Thanx

[Jetijs]

Hi Eric,
This is the coil configuration I am using:

http://www.emuprim.lv/bildez/images/viskautkas_labs/visadi_strunti_1/shema_7.GIF

The red windings are for phase one and the blue ones for phase two. The green ones are the recovery windings. Both red windings are connected so that one makes an S pole and other an N pole. The same goes for phase 2 windings. In my current circuit I am not using transistors but MOSFETs and also there is no recovery battery, instead all the inductive spikes go to a capacitor in the input section. You can find the exact circuit if you browse a few pages back in this same thread.
Thanks,
Jetijs

[Eric]

lighty,
there are two wires wound parallel on each pole. The turn count is 25 for each wire. The winding process was so hard that I did not bother to wind the coils with all the layers with the same winding count. You can see this in the following picture:


I just started at the point nearest to the stator and wound till the end of the pole, then reversed the direction and wound backwards. There are more turns on the stator end of the pole. The first layer was 7-8 turns (if I recall correctly) and each next layer had fewer and fewer turns.

cool!
so let me see if i understand you, you wound each of the 4 poles with 2 strands (bifilar), and are running each strand in parallel, and 2 opposite poles in parallel with N/S fields and then running the other 2 parallel poles in series with the first 2 poles? did i get that right? oh and all strands have there own transistor circuit right?

[lighty]

Thx for the info!

[Jetijs]

lighty,
there are two wires wound parallel on each pole. The turn count is 25 for each wire. The winding process was so hard that I did not bother to wind the coils with all the layers with the same winding count. You can see this in the following picture:


I just started at the point nearest to the stator and wound till the end of the pole, then reversed the direction and wound backwards. There are more turns on the stator end of the pole. The first layer was 7-8 turns (if I recall correctly) and each next layer had fewer and fewer turns.

[lighty]

@Jetijs

Could you please advise on the number of turns per pole and how many layers per pole of your motor?

[Jetijs]

It is this one:
Permanent Magnet Alternator Wind Blue Low Wind