Free Energy At Last Step By Step Must See

[lost66]

sorry series!! not parallel!

[lost66]

i would suggest that having the windings in parallel would give me a better COP
it looks as if it uses less amps when running @ the slower speeds (than when using 1 winding), but i still cant say which way round will charge a battery better.
i am trying to charge a 12v 2amp hour battery that was dead. with the whole setup running @ the slower speed, i get about 10v (little less @ faster speeds), and when i disconnect the battery it goes down to about 6.5V and seems to drop slowly. if i put a 12v relay on it, it drops to .238v

[lost66]

looks like this statement was not entirely true!
dont know what it means (this part is true, Lol), but i first connected the two windings in parallel, did not really notice the difference (does seem to spin a litbit faster, or might have more torque? or something) . then i connected them in series, now there is action in the neon. not continuous but it sparks now and then, and sometimes a few times in succession (this is only true because i was using a neon without resister, one with resister lights up with all of the combinations). the fan also runs a lot slower
i am now at a point where i can connect the 2 primer windings in almost any combination, but got no clue as to what is right or wrong, good or bad.
i dont see any problem with the trigger winding but wans again good or bad, i dont have the foggiest.(true)
ust a note on the neon, as i have said b 4, i took the resister out that was on the 1 lead of the neon.
i had a look at a few things that used a neon and they all have a resister.
with the neon still in place, i took another 1 with resister, and connected it in parallel, it has a constant glow in the circuit (but, did that with all winding options) where as the other one sparks erratically (i can only think that the volts went up, when i connected the windings in series, because when i did that, the neon without resister would start to react)

[lost66]

mmmm very interesting.
i dont know what it means, but i first connected the two windings in parallel, did not really notice the difference. then i connected them in series, now there is action in the neon. not continuous but it sparks now and then, and sometimes a few times in succession. the fan also runs a lot slower.
i am now at a point where i can connect the 2 primer windings in almost any combination, but got no clue as to what is right or wrong, good or bad.
i dont see any problem with the trigger winding but wans again good or bad, i dont have the foggiest.

just a note on the neon, as i have said b 4, i took the resister out that was on the 1 lead of the neon.
i had a look at a few things that used a neon and they all have a resister.
with the neon still in place, i took another 1 with resister, and connected it in parallel, it has a constant glow in the circuit where as the other one sparks erratically

[Joit]

Datasheet can tell you all
It says left Top, if it is a fast switching Diode there.
Just type the Number from the Part into the Box.
1n007 is not a valid number, i think its a 1n4007, and this are standart slow one.

you could try to put a 50 Ohm Resistor between your shorted Pot,
or, in case you dont have one anymore, make more Windings at the Triggercoil.

For adjusting, when you have a digital multimeter or similar,
you set it to amps, connect the Plus lead from the DMM to the plus source batterie,
the minus to your + Power coil,
just put it between the Plus and the coil, and then adjust with the pot,
in case it works once.
Then you need to set the Pot, where it draws lower Amp,
you can see, there is anywhere a Sweetspot.

[lost66]

First i would let it run a bit, then open it, and see, if anything goes hot in there.
Its maybe not to good, when suddenly the Coils overheat after a While.
And me would try all configurations, measure, where it charge up well.
I think, its hard to see and say, wich one works better without a Test.
And remeber, you should make your Pot working.
When you once charge a Batterie, you need to adjust the Fan,
that can save a lot of Amp draw from the Source Batt.

And something for the Diode, better use a fast switching, like a BY228, BY255 or similar,
i dont have much Numbers of them in Mind, but there are a couple of them.
I did see a increase of charging with 4 Diodes in paralell too.

i will run it full speed 4 a hour or so, 2 c if it can handle it.
looks like i will have 2 try all options.
so the pot controls how much charge it gives and how much power it consumes.
do u know if diod 1n007 is fast

[lost66]

Lol. Nice one and Congrats.

Actually the Pot reduce the Current, what goes at the Base of the Transistor.

A Transistor opens like a door, with low Current a small Gap (more or less)
with more, it opens wider.
Kinda like that
With the Pot you adjust kind of the Timing, when the Transistor starts to switch, and how much Energy go through.

When you need to Short your Pot, it means, it has to high Resistance still,
that the Current goes through.
But i think, your Pot is burned at the start area, and it dont goes down to Zero.
Maybe replace the Pot, otherwise, you can do some more Windings on the Trigger, to get control with the Pot.
Sorry about that :P

thanx, yes the pot is burnt @ the beginning.
i dont think i have any more, i will have 2 dig deep 2 find another.

[Joit]

First i would let it run a bit, then open it, and see, if anything goes hot in there.
Its maybe not to good, when suddenly the Coils overheat after a While.
And me would try all configurations, measure, where it charge up well.
I think, its hard to see and say, wich one works better without a Test.
And remeber, you should make your Pot working.
When you once charge a Batterie, you need to adjust the Fan,
that can save a lot of Amp draw from the Source Batt.

And something for the Diode, better use a fast switching, like a BY228, BY255 or similar,
i dont have much Numbers of them in Mind, but there are a couple of them.
I did see a increase of charging with 4 Diodes in paralell too.

[lost66]

what would 1 expect 2 c, 4 each 1 of these option (will the cop/amps/volts/speed.... go up or down):

-i am thinking of joining the 2 windings on both sides and run them in parallel a1+b1 start and a2+b2 end?

-or a1 start, join a2 & b1 and have b2 as the end (then it will be in series, and go around the rotor twice)?

-or join both windings in series on each pole to make 1 winding per pole (a bit more work, but can be done)?

-or double up on the circuit, using the 2 windings with 2 circuits in parallel?

[Joit]

Lol. Nice one and Congrats.

Actually the Pot reduce the Current, what goes at the Base of the Transistor.

A Transistor opens like a door, with low Current a small Gap (more or less)
with more, it opens wider.
Kinda like that
With the Pot you adjust kind of the Timing, when the Transistor starts to switch, and how much Energy go through.

When you need to Short your Pot, it means, it has to high Resistance still,
that the Current goes through.
But i think, your Pot is burned at the start area, and it dont goes down to Zero.
Maybe replace the Pot, otherwise, you can do some more Windings on the Trigger, to get control with the Pot.
Sorry about that :P

[lost66]

success it is spinning up at a rate of knots
i am still running it of the 1 primer winding but the next step would b 2 join it in series with the other.
and i am running it with the pot shorted out so i cant adjust it t c if it is charging (running @full speed)
ps this fan is dam strong. almost took my finger off

[Sephiroth]

Yes, 1 Comment.

GO GO GOOO!!

yep give it a go

[Joit]

Yes, 1 Comment.

GO GO GOOO!!

[lost66]

well i opted for 25 turns around each post, an it gives me 3ohms, any comments on this?

[Sephiroth]

i just hope, i dont see it going up in smoke!!
i think it would be wors if it does not work, after all that eford

I can't say if it will work or not... it definitely won't work well as it could. But you learn something from every experiment