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Ok, I looked at the transistors closer and realised that the one that does the "magic" is the only one that survived from the first batch that I bought some months back (the one on the right). The rest I bought later and from a different shop (at half the price). It looks like although they are supposed to be identical they differ somewhat and that makes a noticable impact on the system. I think it's time i visited that first shop again.Last edited by harctan; 07-14-2013, 02:12 PM.
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And the weirdness continues! I hooked the ssg circuit from the fan to my little monopole motor (skateboard wheel with 4 ceramic magnets). I tried all 5 transistors I had (2N3055),both used and brand new, while keeping all other components exactly the same. The same transistor that can make my fan self-oscillate is the same that works best on the monopole. It is the only one from the 5 transistors that can work with 470 Ohms base resistance and above and produce purple flashes on the neon. The rest need much less base resistance to keep the wheel rotating and only produce orange neon light. Any thoughts on this?
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So I was messing around with my fan trying out different things and I got it to self oscillate without the fan rotating as many others have reported before. It happened when I replaced the emitter-base diode from a 1n4007 to a 1n4148. At first the fan spins but as i increase the base resistance the fan stops but the coils keep oscillating. Then I can remove the fan and i can increase the resistance all the way to 10k and it still oscillates although it becomes silent. And it only works with the charge battery connected. The weird part though is that it only works with one particular transistor. NOT one type of transistor (I only use 2N3055 anyway) but one in particular from the 4 identical I tried.Go figure.
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Yes, after 6 to 10 cycles you wont see much more improvement. To be honest I have never had good experiences with sealed gel batteries. I stick to the old fashioned ones you have to top up with distilled water.
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Ok, the manufacturer gives 15V as top charge voltage so I'll stick to that. The load I use is 120-130mA so it's at C10. I bought these batteries when I was experimenting with my first fan which had a lower current draw and would give me at least a C20 charge. C10 will have to do for now. I guess I'll keep cycling the battery and see if there will be any improvement.
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With sealed batteries I would not charge above the recommended voltage, Your second battery could be sulfated or drying out. Use a slightly smaller load so you are at least C10 on your discharge, C20 is better.
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So I'm in the proccess of conditioning my new batteries using a C10 charge-discharge rate (1.24Ah rated at C10), running the fan from a pc power supply at 12V and using as load either 12V bulb, standard fan or bedini fan to charge smaller batteries. I charge them to 14.5-15V and discharge them to 11.2V. I have concluded 3 full charge-discharge cycles until now. The first battery takes about 7 hours to discharge and about twice as long to charge. The second battery charges a little faster but when I discharge it at about 2 hours the voltage goes down to 10V. At first it looks like it drains at a normal rate but in the last 10-20 minutes it plummets fast. Does that mean that it is sulfated? Perhaps it was sitting on the self for a long time before I bought it? If so should I continue charging as usual and see what happens or would it be beneficial if I used more amps and drive it more than 15V?Last edited by harctan; 09-25-2012, 09:22 PM.
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130mA is a C10 charge rate which is twice as fast as the ideal but you should still get good results.Originally posted by harctan View PostMy battery is 1.3Ah rating. I had tried in the past to rewire with #26 and #28 wire but it was a no go since the induced current wasn't enough to trigger the transistor. The #32 works fine for me but only when I use smaller fan blades (80mm diameter) instead of the original (120mm) as shown in the attached pictures. I've been playing around with this fan today and it is definately easier to tune. I haven't pinpointed the sweet spot exactly yet but I'm closing in. I have it running at 1KΩ,130mA,12v and the battery seems to be charging at an acceptable rate, rising from 12.42v to 12.50v within an hour.
Using #27 wire does not have many turns on the stator but is lower resistance so your current is more. My pot is set at around 68 ohms but gets hot. I guess different devices have different settings.
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My battery is 1.3Ah rating. I had tried in the past to rewire with #26 and #28 wire but it was a no go since the induced current wasn't enough to trigger the transistor. The #32 works fine for me but only when I use smaller fan blades (80mm diameter) instead of the original (120mm) as shown in the attached pictures. I've been playing around with this fan today and it is definately easier to tune. I haven't pinpointed the sweet spot exactly yet but I'm closing in. I have it running at 1KΩ,130mA,12v and the battery seems to be charging at an acceptable rate, rising from 12.42v to 12.50v within an hour.Last edited by harctan; 07-14-2013, 02:12 PM.
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It sounds like you are on the sweet spot. Unfortunately it is true that the high resistance fans run poorly and it is better to rewind them. I use #27wire for this, the lower the resistance we have the better it works but we still need some turns so that the fan will run.
What amp hour rating of battery do you use?
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I'm using 2 new 12v 1.3Ah SLA batteries which I'm currently conditioning. My multimeter has an accuracy to one hundreth of a volt (at least on paper) and it will not register any change in charging voltage for a wide range in base resistance. I run the fan at 24V (due to high coil resistance at 70-75 Ohms) from a computer power supply. I tried again tuning the fan with sound and neon. This way I settled at around 5.000 Ohms. The sound from the coils, although I can't determine if it's the highest in volume, it is the highest in pitch. The neon does light the brightest but the fan has slowed down enough so that the blinking is easily noticable. At that point the fan draws 23mA and charges the battery very very slow (it took about 1 hour to get from 12.25V to 12.27V). After a lot of delay I finally recieved a coil of AWG #32 wire that I had ordered which I used to rewire another striped fan that I had from a previous failed attempt. This one seems to run nicely at 12V so I will run it for the next days and see if I will get better results.Last edited by harctan; 09-21-2012, 08:11 PM.
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Are you sure? the difference may only be one hundredth of a volt or so if the battery is big.Originally posted by harctan View PostAs I mentioned earlier the highest charging voltage remains the same from 800 Ohms all the way to 6000 Ohms, hence my confusion.
if you get in the range of the loudest sounds, the highest charging voltage and when no battery is connected the brightest neon you are in the sweet spot.
Any lead acid battery, be it new or old, responds better after a number of charges provided it id always charged on the fan; Capacity increases even on a brand new battery and charge time drops. Do not overcharge gel type batteries they will rapidly deteriorate by drying out, in this condition they act much like a capacitor charging very quickly to high voltages but have little capacity. This may be a cause of some of the very spectacular charging results that some people have obtained. I always use the simple cheap lead acid batteries now, the type that you have to add water. They are also better in the fact you can check each cell with a hydrometer to make sure that the acid is the same strength in each cell.
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So I've been playing with my fan for a few days but I'm still uncertain about the sweet spot. I run it with 24V from a pc power supply and charge a 12V 1.3Ah SLA battery. The charging voltage peaks at about 820 Ohms, thats about where the coils start their "singing", at about 62 mA current draw. But the peak charge voltage stays there all the way to 6000 Ohms at 20mA. The sound pitch of the coils changes so I can't really tell when it's louder, and without the battery the neon flashes an orange colour which at first gets brighter but then the only thing I notice is it's frequency droping as the fan slows down. Should I just aim for the lowest amp draw at 6000 Ohms? Or would that result to inefficient charging due to low frequency of the spikes? Perhaps there is some other way to find out? (meaning other than spending many days/weeks charging and discharging the battery at different base resistance values)
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