Free Energy At Last Step By Step Must See

[newwalter]

Hello newwalter. I'm 99.99% confident that this video is fake along with other videos from the same user. He is probably using some trick (like a magician) to give the illusion that it works. It would be great if it was that simple but it's highly unlikely. Unfortunately there is a lot of noise when researching these kinds of technology and it can get furstrating trying to seperate the ones that are valid from the rest. I hope this helps.

Hi Harctan,

thank you for reply -- as you said 99,99% it's a fake but theoretically it can be Joule Thief Circuit Joule Thief Circuit Diagrams, Etc....

please look at this:
Working AFP Part 2 "Dr Lirpa Sloof" technology exposed! – Free Energy News

and now look at this:
Joule thief using mosfet - YouTube

for me it's a kind of joule-thief-circuit

[stargate22]

Impossible!!

There is no coil in these devices...just a Varistor.....thus NO eletricity can be
HAD!


Move along....

[mbrownn]

Its a fake, I wish it was that simple.

[harctan]

Hello newwalter. I'm 99.99% confident that this video is fake along with other videos from the same user. He is probably using some trick (like a magician) to give the illusion that it works. It would be great if it was that simple but it's highly unlikely. Unfortunately there is a lot of noise when researching these kinds of technology and it can get furstrating trying to seperate the ones that are valid from the rest. I hope this helps.

[newwalter]

extension cord free energy

dear friends,

can anybody explain how that guy made it work?
I was trying to understand it but no successfull.

Free Energy Generator 2 - YouTube

I would be grateful if someone could tell me where is the hook

[mbrownn]

97 to 110% efficiency is the overall efficiency when counting the fan power and how much you get in the charging battery.

I have not had much experience lighting bulbs with the fan, I don't know where you got that idea from I have lit fluorescent bulbs with the IRO, google Imhoteps radiant oscillator lite and you will find lots of information on this. Alternatively you could slave an ignition coil on the fan to light small florescents but Your charging efficiency will drop.

It is possible to replace the pot with bulbs of the same resistance on the fan and have them light up while it is running but you wont get a lot from one of these little fans.

[jessica.emanski]

I am kind of a newbie to this stuff but I have seen some Youtube videos of Imhotep's circuit and wanted to give it a try. I don't want to run a fan or motor, I just want to run lights (like a light bulb). I have seen a Youtube video were someone ran a light bulb for a couple days while the batteries were doing their charging. I also read mbrownn's post about his experience running lights while charging his batteries as having around 97-110% efficiency. So I have two questions: 1) What circuit would be best for running a light bulb?, and 2) What experience's have you had with lights as the load to your circuit? How long have you had the light shining for? Thanks so much for all your help!

[mbrownn]

Using a scope you want the highest voltage spikes, the number of spikes is not important with the fan. The single spike, double spike etc is more relevant to the bicycle wheel SSG. Your first picture looks more like what you should be getting.

Try measuring the charging battery with your scope, you should see small spikes and this is a lower risk of killing your computer. Tune so you have the highest voltage on the battery. you will see that these small spikes start at about 2v above battery voltage and then drop down to a few milli volts as the battery charges.

Thanks for your concern, its just what you get living in the third world. It isn't effecting my research as the motor we have is in the U.S. in the hands of another member.

[harctan]

I got a flooded lead acid motorcycle battery 12V 4Ah to experiment with and see if I get better results. I'm currently taking it through charge-discharge cycles as to condition it. Meanwhile I've been playing around with oscillator software using the pc soundcard (and a voltage divider so I don't fry the motherboard). I read in other threads that some guys used an oscilloscope to tune their monopole motors with this simple method: increase base resistance until you go from one pulse per magnet pass to two pulses per magnet pass, then go down again to one pulse and that's it. I'd be interested to know if that is a valid method of tuning and if that would also apply to the modified fans. I attached the probes of my homemade oscilloscope between the collector and emitter of the transistor to see how it pulsed. The pictures I attach show the results starting with high base resistance and then lowering it. You can see that as I lower the resistance I get less pulses until I get only two with the one lasting much longer than the other (at 56 Ohms). But the sweet spot, using the neon to evaluate it (after I unhook the charging battery), is much closer to the first pictures where there seem to be more pulses. In fact in the last picture (at 56 Ohms) the neon doesn't light and the charging is very poor, if any. I'd like to know if these results are accurate and what do they mean exactly. Also is there some other way to use this basic oscilloscope in this project?

P.S. Mbrownn I read on the lockridge thread about your lab. I am sorry to hear that, I hope you get it up and running soon.

[harctan]

Sounds like a plan. First I'll go get a motorcycle battery. I'll also get some new transistors and see if I can find a wire wound pot. We'll see what happens.

[mbrownn]

All we can do is a process of elimination, replace one part at a time until we find the problem.

I have had transistors that worked really well and then after disconcerting the charging battery while running to check with the neon they did not work so well. Its like they were partially damaged because they still checked out on the meter.

I never use a neon now but never run the fan without a charging battery connected.

[harctan]

In the first picture I attach you can see a 5'' fan which I have rewired with #32. I had previously tried with #26 and #28 but they would not work no matter what I tried. They just didn't seem to have enough turns. Even with the #32 wire I cannot run it using 5'' fans (shown on the left). Even with 10 Ohms base resistance it just runs for a couple of seconds and then stops. I have to use the smaller 3'' fan. This one I probably haven't tuned correctly and also my batteries are too small for the current (~200mA). The other three fans (shown in the second picture) are within the C20 rating and I'm more confident about their tuning. As for the pots I use (also shown in the first picture) I have trouble believing there's something wrong with them since they seem to work fine, meaning that I can change the fan speed, neon brightness, amp draw by turning them with no problems whatsoever.

[mbrownn]

I used #27 wire in both computer fans and larger cooling fans, I can't remember the figures for the computer fan but this is for the larger 5" fans that I now use. My #27 wire coils were 5.2 ohms, with a 12v supply, using ohms law we would have a potential to run 2.3 amps through the coil which is 27 watts, but as you know the transistor cuts the current off. My average draw of current was 230ma which is 2.76 watts. As it is a bifilar coil it tries to push that power through the pot, no carbon pot would survive this power, that is why I use a 5w wire wound pot. At the sweet spot the resistance of the pot is around 68 ohms. Under ohms law we have the potential to put 164ma through the pot, again a carbon film pot would not survive.
On a computer fan the coils are much lower resistance and I had problems running it on 12v and usually used 24v I never did efficiency tests on the small fan so maybe I am misleading you there but the 5" fans were 90+% efficient, the best being 97% + or - 5% error.

My fan is similar to this WATER-PROOF FAN IP58 12V 0.5 A from Conrad Electronic UK

I suggest that if you are using a carbon pot either your resistance is too high or it is burnt out. This would explain why you are having problems to run your fan. If your fan does run it is likely that the carbon film has shorted and your resistance is too low. either way you wont be on the sweet spot.

Even with the standard windings of a computer fan, at 80 ohms, the carbon film pots tend to fail. I suggest that this may be the problem.

[harctan]

Yes, my batteries do not seem to be lead calcium. I will try your suggestion and get a motorcycle battery to see if there will be a difference. I have tried 24V on two of the fans but the results were the same. I also use 2n3055 transistors and 1n4007 diodes. The pot is indeed carbon film but I never had a problem with them overheating or burning. As for the sweet spot it's highly unlikely that I missed it with all the tests I have performed. Also I'm baffled as to how you get these fans running with #27 wire. I never managed to get them running with anything thicker than #32 (0.2mm).

[mbrownn]

It does not look like these batteries are lead calcium, commonly they have the symbol PbCa written on them so recyclers know what they are dealing with.

Try using the fan to discharge the battery down to 12.02v, then recharge it with the fan. it should take the same amount of time to bring the battery up as it took to discharge it + or - 10%.

Try the same thing again on a different brand of battery.

I have read back through the thread and you do seem to be doing everything right, I suspect it is the batteries but cannot be sure. If you can get a very cheap motorcycle battery, the type that you top up with distilled water and try that. These are the best type to use with a Bedini in my opinion.

I use only 1N4007 for both diodes, 2N3055 transistors from china, a 5w wire wound pot and #27 wire, the fan only just runs slowly with a 12v supply at the sweet spot and will sometimes stall as the voltage drops but continues to self oscillate. With finer wire and more turns the fan runs fine, at about 30% of the unmodified fan speed. There is nothing special about what I use. and there is nothing special about the Bedini circuit. The effect is always in the battery, It is the pulsing that causes it and that is why I suspect the battery.

The only other thing it could be, other than defective parts, is that you are not on the sweet spot. This must be very frustrating for you.

The most common part to fail is the pot, carbon film pots cannot handle the power. If you are using a carbon film pot and it is getting warm then it is already burned out and you probably are not on the sweet spot. Sniff the pot, do you get that burned electronics smell or ozone smell?

Did you try a higher voltage supply?