Oscillating Reed Switch Pulse Motor.

[Allen Burgess]

Pole reversal.

The test coil was wrapped bifilar and connected serially like Tesla's Pancake. The 3/4" Neo tube magnet diametrically polarized. This discovery was accidental. I planned to run the spinner with my inset spiral and SSG. The "Hot Wired" Reed switch was just a quick and dirty way to test my novel precision ceramic bearings. The switch touched the coil by accident. I was startled by the sudden burst of explosive speed. I don't know for sure what the coil polarity was originally. It would take very little to try it with an opposite coil polarity once set up and tested as I outlined. All you would risk is a $3.99 switch. A reversed coil polarity will either work as well, more poorly, fail to work, or fail to work and fry. A hot switch is a dead switch. Replace the switch and reverse the battery electrodes if it heats up and fails, and stand by for "Blastoff".

The spinner has two poles. So basically it should make no difference which pole faces the magnet rotor from the coil end, right?

Imagine a N pole on the coil end. This may result in a "push pull" repulsion attraction motor. This is the only other possible way it may have worked.

The south pole would close the switch, energizing the coil and causing either an attraction to the pole or a repulsion to the following north pole. At the same time the coil's north pole would quickly close the switch a second time, perhaps attracting the south pole of the magnet and so on. I'll be Frank in admitting; I'm really unsure of which way it worked. It's possible that it may work equally well either way, one way better then the other or one way not at all. The other issue is that it's possible that the bifilar coil produces two poles on the end. There's one way it works for sure!

What I can accurately report is that there's an instantaneous doubling of speed from around 25k to 50k R.P.M. that may involve a double turn of the magnet spinner. This, I believe is an "Overunity Event" that merits further experimentation and testing. Special high quality, near to frictionless bearings are a requirement to witness this "Quantum Jump" in speed.

[Allen Burgess]

Polarity.

Once you get the coil switch and rotor set up with the South pole on the coil end, spin the neo magnet up by hand and just skip the power wire quickly over the positive battery electrode to see if the rotor kicks. This is not enough to damage the switch. Try the battery polarity reversed this way if nothing happens.

[Allen Burgess]

Ceramic bearings.

The all ceramic bearing pictured below costs $10. on ebay. It has an 8 mm ID. The chrome steel ball bearing has an 8 mm diameter and is very cheap. The diametric neo tube magnet has a 1/4" ID; (8 mm = 5/16"). The chrome steel bearing is large enough to attach magnetically to the end holes of the neo tube and just the right size to fit snugly inside the ceramic bearing as well. This should yield a very stable high precision (Cookie Cutter) spin tube and bearing set for under $25. Naturally you would need to mount the bearings inside a frame.

The OD of the ceramic bearing is 22 mm. Sturdy PVC tube comes in 22 mm ID dimension. The bearings can fit inside the tube and cement to 90 degree elbows. You can take it from there! Another good approach would be to come in through the sides of the PVC coupling with holes and the 22 mm ID pipes glued in position. Internal rings can nest inside and hold the bearings in place. This would allow us to run the coil down from overhead like the original.

[Sputins]

Hi Allan,

Okay perhaps I’m a little slow… I’ve seen all the pieces, coil, reed switch, general schematic and bearings etc.

I’m still unsure of how the whole thing assembles and what the completed assembly actually looks like, where / how everything fits together.

Is there a drawing, photo or video of the complete assembled motor?

I’m more of a Tesla coil experimenter and not so great with motors. However I recon I could build this device to expand my horizons a bit.

[Allen Burgess]

Hi Allan,

Okay perhaps I’m a little slow… I’ve seen all the pieces, coil, reed switch, general schematic and bearings etc.

I’m still unsure of how the whole thing assembles and what the completed assembly actually looks like, where / how everything fits together.

Is there a drawing, photo or video of the complete assembled motor?

I’m more of a Tesla coil experimenter and not so great with motors. However I recon I could build this device to expand my horizons a bit.

@Sputins,

Go back and look at comment #3 on the first page of this thread. I'll help guide you through the replication if you accept the challenge. The kind of bearings I recently suggested are new ideas, but the important point is that they would fit inside the protective PVC coupling pictured in comment #3.

[Allen Burgess]

Protective houseing.

Matthew Jones stared building this motor and wound up with a set of bearings that were too large to run inside the "Protective Housing". What would happen if something dislodged on his version? I've gone to great lengths to stress the importance of safety with this motor due to the very high rotor speeds it attains. Matthew really started working stupid on me! The rotor and the bearings both need to be enclosed for safety.

[Sputins]

@Sputins,

Go back and look at comment #3 on the first page of this thread. I'll help guide you through the replication if you accept the challenge. The kind of bearings I recently suggested are new ideas, but the important point is that they would fit inside the protective PVC coupling pictured in comment #3.

Okay I’ve caught up on the design now with some further inquiry.

I’ve drawn a quick picture of what the basic arrangement is but I’ll have to wait till I’m at my home PC to post it.

So it’s the diametrically magnetized magnet that spins at high speed and why the magnet shaft must be strong and have superior bearings supporting it.
The coil and reed switch are at right angles to the spinning magnet, which is fixed at the optimum distance.

Because the magnet and shaft spin at super high speed, a protective case is required around it, but access is momentarily required to start it spinning.

Okay I think I understand the general physical arrangement.

Just thinking out loud - I wonder for the magnet shaft if that rod was made of bismuth metal of slightly smaller diameter than the hole in magnet, whether then magnet would then tend to “float” around the bismuth rod? (I’ve never tried it)? - If that did work, you would have the inside hole of the magnet become the “magnetic bearing” surrounding the bismuth rod.

If not, then the diametrical magnetized magnet could be suspended between two pieces of bismuth, and the coil/reed mounted 90 degrees on the top. A shaft of smaller diameter could be passed through the hole in the magnet just to roughly hold it place when it wan't spinning / operating or aid in getting it to spin. Once spinning, it should float and likely spin at incredible speeds! The switching ability of the reed switch would be the speed limiting factor..

With the reed switch opening and closing at very high speed inside a vacuum together with the collapsing flux of the (Tesla) series connected bifilar air coil, does make this little motor device interesting indeed.

[Allen Burgess]

Okay I’ve caught up on the design now with some further inquiry.

I’ve drawn a quick picture of what the basic arrangement is but I’ll have to wait till I’m at my home PC to post it.

So it’s the diametrically magnetized magnet that spins at high speed and why the magnet shaft must be strong and have superior bearings supporting it.
The coil and reed switch are at right angles to the spinning magnet, which is fixed at the optimum distance.

Because the magnet and shaft spin at super high speed, a protective case is required around it, but access is momentarily required to start it spinning.

Okay I think I understand the general physical arrangement.

Just thinking out loud - I wonder for the magnet shaft if that rod was made of bismuth metal of slightly smaller diameter than the hole in magnet, whether then magnet would then tend to “float” around the bismuth rod? (I’ve never tried it)? - If that did work, you would have the inside hole of the magnet become the “magnetic bearing” surrounding the bismuth rod.

If not, then the diametrical magnetized magnet could be suspended between two pieces of bismuth, and the coil/reed mounted 90 degrees on the top. A shaft of smaller diameter could be passed through the hole in the magnet just to roughly hold it place when it wan't spinning / operating or aid in getting it to spin. Once spinning, it should float and likely spin at incredible speeds! The switching ability of the reed switch would be the speed limiting factor..

With the reed switch opening and closing at very high speed inside a vacuum together with the collapsing flux of the (Tesla) series connected bifilar air coil, does make this little motor device interesting indeed.

@Sputins,

Check this CobraKiller2000 video out:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNAC0NbsHRE

[Allen Burgess]

Bismuth axle.

@Sputins,

Adding an upright bismuth axle rod like you described to the thick rectangular bismuth base (CobraKiller2000) demonstrates, would not only levitate the magnet rotor rings, but act as a frictionless positioner to help keep the rotor on station. This combination would certainly attain the "Highest State of the Art" for high speed spin bearing, if you got it to work. This kind of bearing could easily install inside a "Safty Housing", complying with our essential personal hazard protection criteria.

Adding a few steel washers to the base of the diametric neo tube magnet, then attaching a stronger axial polarized ring magnet of larger diameter would help levitate the tube rotor, with a mono-polar field facing the bismuth block.

[Allen Burgess]

Bismuth axle.

@Sputins,

Your idea of a bismuth axle to spin on the horizontal plane is sheer genius. It might help to reduce the diameter of the neo tube and increase it's length. On the vertical plane, (CobraKiller2000's) magnetically attracted overhead steel ball bearings could help suspend a neo tube over a bismuth block with a bismuth axle, combining all three of the approaches.

Bismuth bushings on each end of a bismuth axle would help keep the neo tube magnet rotor centered. Great idea!

[Allen Burgess]

@Sputins,

By Jove Sputins; This really looks doable!

ZLX Tech | Bismuth Rod

Bismuth Rod

Formula: Bi

Alias / Keywords: Bismuth Rod, Bismuth Metal Rod, Bi Rod, Bi Metal Rod

Item no.: 311083


Inquiry

Grade: 99.999%
Diameter: 3mm, 5mm, 8mm, 10mm, 20mm, 50mm, 100mm, 200mm, 1/8", 1/4", 1/2", 1", 2", 4", 8" or as customized.

Length: 5mm, 10mm, 20mm, 50mm, 100mm, 200mm, 250mm, 500mm, 1000mm, 1/4", 1/2", 1", 2", 4", 8", 10", 20" or as customized.

Special requirement is welcome!

[Allen Burgess]

long tube magnet.

Super Magnet Man

Here's a long thin diametric neo tube magnet that has a better chance to levitate on the bismuth rod:

N45SH. 0.50" (12.7mm) OD x 0.25" (6.35mm) ID x 3" (76.2mm) long, magnetized across the diameter.

6 mm = 15/64". The tube ID is 1/4". That thickness would leave 1/64", or 1/128" all around. Maybe enough to seperate! That would require a 4" rod, and a larger 3 1/2" PVC coupling.

A 5 mm rod would be 13/64". This would leave 3/64" or 3/128" all around inside the 1/4". I think tight enough! A hundred millimeters is 3 15/16" long. 5 mm thick and 100 mm in length should work well with the 3" long 1/2" OD, 1/4" ID neo tube pictured below. All we need now is some bismuth ring disc bushings!

[Allen Burgess]

bismuth repulsion video.

Good video demonstrating the repulsive behavior of a bismuth rod to neo magnets:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUoUSz-hD8A

[Allen Burgess]

bismuth bushings.

ZLX Tech | Bismuth Target

Grade: 99.99%, 99.999%
Shape: round, square, or customized
Diameter: 1", 2", 3", 4", 5", 10" or larger
Square: 50mm x50mm, 100mm x 100mm, 250mm x 250mm or larger
Thickness: 1/8", 1/4", 1/2", 5mm, 10mm, 20mm...

This cinches it: Two 1" bismuth discs, with 5 mm holes in the center; One glued to each end of the axle to keep the neo tube centered.

This looks like a real winner Sputins! A bit costly, but well worth the investment for a permanent frictionless levitating bearing! Thanks for the "brilliant idea"!

[Matthew Jones]

Matthew Jones stared building this motor and wound up with a set of bearings that were too large to run inside the "Protective Housing". What would happen if somthing dislodged on his version? I've gone to great lengths to stress the importance of safety with this motor due to the very high rotor speeds it attains. Matthew really started working stupid on me! The rotor and the bearings both need to be enclosed for safety.

You ever noticed how people disappear after you start talking this way. Your making up a story that is very far from the truth to make sure everyone but yourself looks like an idiot.
Here's a test for ya.

As long as you keep this up no one will replicate your project. As it is, if a person cannot get the results you expect you probably blame them for your misinformation. But thats OK people are seeing your behavior and walking away. Soon you will have no one. Get help, Get medication, grow up.

Matt