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Oscillating Reed Switch Pulse Motor.

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  • Bell ringing circuit.

    Bell ringing circuit:
    Last edited by Allen Burgess; 08-11-2017, 10:01 PM.

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    • I try with a small ready made inductor....
      Everything work fine! ��
      Attached Files
      Last edited by Wistiti; 03-18-2016, 03:18 AM. Reason: Wrong word.

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      • But it is hard to find the sweet spot... After a wile the reed stick close...😕

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        • Next try i may use a bigger reed and a bigger inductor...

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          • Resonant frequency.

            @Wistiti,

            The resonant frequency of the LC circuit is a simple inverse proportion: The smaller the capacitance and the larger the inductor, the higher the resonant frequency, and the smaller the inductor and higher the capacitance, the lower the resonant frequency. A large capacitor and small inductor like the one you have would lower the resonant frequency to maybe even below a hertz: That's why your switch is sticking. Simplefix2969's schematic has an inductor of 300 to 400 turns for a capacitor as large as yours.
            Last edited by Allen Burgess; 08-11-2017, 10:01 PM.

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            • Hello Allen

              I would like to replicate this design but can't see the values of the diodes behind the shotky,if it is a shotky...the drawing on the videois fine except for the top part ,of which I do not have a clear view...
              Please be so kind as to make a nice clear drawing as you see it...

              Your help is much appreciated

              Regards

              Qua

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              • Sorry Allen,
                That is the design of simplefix 2969 I'm talking about

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                • Originally posted by quantumfanatic View Post
                  Sorry Allen,
                  That is the design of simplefix 2969 I'm talking about
                  Hi Quantum.
                  Here is the one i use. Happy building!
                  Attached Files

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                  • Thanks wistiti

                    I have the same drawing,what i want to see is what is behind the shotky...I can't see it..
                    I need the values of the diodes..please help

                    Thanks in advance

                    Qua

                    Comment


                    • Shotky diode.

                      @quantumfanatic,

                      Try the 1N5819 Shotkey diode.

                      @Wistiti,

                      Thanks for the snapshot!

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                      • Thanks Allen
                        that helps a lot as the drawing's top and bottom is not clear,however,could you give me the values of the three diodes behind the shotky which is col loured in red?
                        Thanks in advance

                        Qua

                        Comment


                        • @quantufanatic,

                          Those red diode symbols with the two dashes over head are "Light Emmiting Diodes" or LED'S. I think the standard 3 to 4 volt model would work.

                          "Standard20 mA LEDs (ranging from approximately 40 mW to 90 mW) at around: 1.9 to 2.1 V for red, orange, yellow, and traditional green

                          3.0 to 3.4 V for pure green and blue

                          2.9 to 4.2 V for violet, pink, purple and white

                          Ultra-high-output20 mA at approximately 2 or 4–5 V, designed for viewing in direct sunlight
                          5 V and 12 V LEDs are ordinary miniature LEDs that incorporate a suitable series resistor for direct connection to a 5 V or 12 V supply".

                          You can see the size of the LED'S in Simplefix's video.
                          Last edited by Allen Burgess; 03-18-2016, 10:39 PM.

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                          • @Allen

                            Thanks,I understand what is going on now,will try to replicate

                            Qua

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                            • Diodes and flyback.

                              Look at, and contrast the different ways the diodes are facing in these two schematics below; The George Cianiotakis schematic on the left has the LED cathode connected to the negative pole, whereas the Simplefix 2969 schematic on the right has the diode and LED'S reverse biased: The Simplefix 2969 LED'S are illuminated by the higher voltage flyback, wherein the voltage is reversed and the current direction unchanged from the breaking of the switch contacts. The LED on the Cianiotakis oscillator is illuminated directly by the generated current. That's why the LED cathodes are connected to opposite power poles in the different schematics. The LED'S and diode in the Simplefix 2969 schematic collect flyback, help protect the Reed switch from detrimental arcing, and prolong the longevity of the Reed switch contacts to a great degree. The Cianiotakis Reed switch will burn out way too soon in his oscillator from the fluctuating plasma arcing, rapidly and corrosively eating away at the metal contact points. Two powerful north, south, quenching neo magnets on either side of the Reed switch would help to very effectively prolong the lifespan of George Cianiotakis's oscillating Reed switch contacts; Seen on the left below:
                              Last edited by Allen Burgess; 08-11-2017, 10:01 PM.

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                              • Have you ever scale it up??

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