My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[machinealive]

Hey UFO

That's funny. But now I know that you understand me. I stopped the sensors because I felt so inspired, once I figured out a way to work that drum. So, we could even exchange the wound drum for a drum with permanent magnets, and collect off stators. or remove shaft and replace with a spinning rotor, very versatile only limited by our imagination.

Hey UFO, you should do a drawing and post it, so design stays in public domain, if you think that's something we should do.

[Ufopolitics]

Hey UFO

That's funny. But now I know that you understand me. I stopped the sensors because I felt so inspired, once I figured out a way to work that drum. So, we could even exchange the wound drum for a drum with permanent magnets, and collect off stators. or remove shaft and replace with a spinning rotor, very versatile only limited by our imagination.

Hey UFO, you should do a drawing and post it, so design stays in public domain, if you think that's something we should do.

Hey Friend,

Yes, definitively I WILL, get a complete design of the whole detailed structure...

Yes, it would be very versatile...many exchanges there to be tested...also make two drums...so they could be wound differently...to test the best output...

Drawing the Four Stator and center hole plates is not a big deal, however, the steel Mass of the Cores must be kind of balanced to the outer ones, in order that Facing and Opposed magnetic fields would be as close as possible in strength...So, I need some measurements on just One of the Main Four Outer Stators, like height, width of center core (where you wind wires) as also width of the outer "T" (Face out)...anyways, I will draw a 3D perspective with all measurements...so do not worry now.

That "Monster" is gonna Rock and Roll!!


Cheers


Ufopolitics

[machinealive]

I'm going out soon and measure everything. I wish I had more money for this, I would have bought some nice Swiss, or Austrian bearings. ZZZZZZOOOOOOOMMMMMM.

I'm glad you like this design UFO.

[prochiro]

Nuts I say

Machine

You are nuts.......The air must be getting vary thin there in Canada.
Dana

[machinealive]

Dana, What up chicken butt? Did the program work?

Here are your secret measurements UFO, remember not to show anyone

[prochiro]

Machine
Been cutting wood all day, company to-nite, Just downloaded it, give me a break. Reading thru it with 3/4 eye. Tomorrow should be 100%
Chicken Butt ? Thats Sir Chicken Butt to you.

[machinealive]

Dana, I really am sorry about your eye, but seriously, what were you doing to get poison ivy in your eye, I never heard of that one before. Rolling around on the woods mossy floor

[prochiro]

Machine
Here in Michigan, poison Ivy grows all around and up the trees to the top with a diameter of up to four inches. Some people cut cord wood that size. Want to by some poison ivy logs. I could send you a young plant to get you started on your next woods. I guess that within two years you will harvest six cords extra from the ivy alone on the trees. By the way, I was looking at the last picture you showed us and noticed that beside that gigantic housing is even a more gigantic foot. Is that yours. We should call you Big Foot...
Dana

[Ufopolitics]

Great, We can work with it...

Dana, What up chicken butt? Did the program work?

Here are your secret measurements UFO, remember not to show anyone

Hello Machine,

Excellent, that's it so far all measurements we need ...We can start setting it up.

Now, thinking about the way to engage the Imperial Aluminum Coupler to Another Coupler that would carry the Slip Rings...and the Drum...Plus an Inner Stator "encased" within that drum...but fixed...

[IMG][/IMG]

Above I have draw the way you have set Imperial and Aluminum bracket, plus the two bearings, inner and outer, plus the shaft split to reduce size on IMG...

I always picture the easier way to take apart and to re install both assemblies...and came up with the following "requirements":

1- All Your Electrical connections, for Drum and Inner Stator wiring's, must be done with screws/nuts/connectors. Also from Drum windings terminals to Slip Rings must be attached by bolt on connections.

2- The Inner Stator and Shaft mounting: The fixed shaft only needs to be drilled a hole at lower end, with an opening to pull and push connectors in-out, therefore, the connections to Inner Stator could be done at bottom of assembly (I call bottom to the other extreme of where Imperial is mounted).

3- Now the Drum...I would say to consider a thickness of about 2 to 3 Inches thick Cylinder, could be aluminum, and you are gonna drill holes every certain distance from end to end (Comprehending the Stators Face area, but a bit smaller, in order that wires run within that area, and not outside of it) in order to run coil wires, and smooth/cone shape at start and end. Now, between every wire hole you will drill holes to tap a thread to them, and not all the way but the length of the attaching bolts. That Cylinder-Drum will bolt to a "Star" (*) structure at both ends...that Star structure will attach to bearing mounted on rigid shaft.

3a- Now, the Upper Star bracket, could have a sleeve (smaller cylinder) either welded or attached by bolts to house the slip rings...no problem there...

Where I see the problem, is at engaging Drum Assembly with Slip Ring to Imperial Aluminum Coupler...(Understanding an easy way to take on-off) and the way I see it could be done...(maybe you have all this part already figured out)...is to use "Male-Female Spline Couplers" that will easy engage-disengage, but will carry the rotation...something similar to the way we connect the Trans-axle shaft to the differential in a Vehicle...or the way an Electric Motor engages with the Trans-Axle assy...If You could do that, with two cylinders of aluminum or steel...then it would be a piece of cake...

Now...Picture putting it together:

We start from the empty fixed shaft, and at top we have the Aluminum coupling you've made attached to Imperial...outer Stators already wound.

1-First insert/press the Star Bracket and bearing with Slip Ring all the way to top, bolt it to aluminum Imperial Coupler.

2-Press Inner Stator into fixed shaft all the way to position...bolt on wires at bottom end from shaft to stator.

3- Install Cylinder Drum and attach at top to star bracket, hook up wires to connectors at slip ring.

4- Press in lower star bracket and bolt it to drum.

5- Attach bottom cap with bearings to shaft end.

I am working on 3D and 2D CAD for all this am referring to here...then you will see it better.


Warm Regards


Ufopolitics


On a separate note: Please let's keep all this secret...I sent you an NDA (Non Disclosure Agreement) and you have not signed it as of now...we need the secrecy...ok??..So...

[machinealive]

Hey UFO

Here, the slip ring will be compressed on a coupler with a bearing in the end, to spin around shaft, then bolt to imperial coupler at other end.



The black blob at the end, is another bearing. Who needs cad anyway,

[hanon1492]

Figuera patent 30378 winding

Hi all,

According to an overunity.com user the winding that he proposes for skipping the Lenz Law in Figuera's patent 30378 is the one explained in this link. The winding for the induced coil is denoted as (c)



As you are using other similar Figuera patent (patent 30376) as base for your project I thought it would be good for you to know this winding proposal.




Please take into consideration that the counter magnetic field generated in those proposed drum windings (at 90º respect to the inducer field) is not the same as the induced magnetic field in some winding schemes that you are proposing for your project (at 0º respect to the inducer field). Figuera stated that the separation between the poles of the electromagnets must be very small, therefore it is posible that Figuera used the winding proposed by this user (which is just one wire thick) instead of the normal drum winding. I am not an expert in electrical machines but I think that you, the experts, verify if this is fine or not.

I hope this could help.

Regards!!

[soundiceuk]

Hi Ufopolitics and all, I'm still trying to suck in all the info posted in this thread about asymmetrical motors. It's a very steep learning curve for me.

Are there any that can easily be bolted down to a frame?

Basically I am looking for something to pulse this asymmetric mechanical torque amplifier:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/1n7z4tx4irtq7gk/Group%20Prototype%202%20-%20Demo%201.m4v

I've not got much experience compared to you guys with motors.

Where should I start?

I was thinking 555 timer with adjustable pulse width and time. Then I thought I would ask here as I consider the main contributors to be experts in this field.

I really hope you can figure out Figuera's work.

Onwards and upwards!

Best regards,

Paul

[sampojo]

Dual Pentagon Y Winding, Induction motor to generator

Reply to post 5366

On the other hand...the RS applied to this monster would be a very strong motor...just have to go above 3-4 ohms per Pairs to drive/pulse safely...it will definitively give you over 3600 RPM's easy...smoothly...and very strong.

And no major Modifications...on housing, no magnets out...or brushes mod...

Note, make it without modifying commutators gaps...and see how it works...


Ufopolitics

I am liking the big RS type motor for my Baldor. But what about using the your Dual Pentagon Y winding pattern, post 1466?



That seemed to do well when I built it from the RS hobby rotor. I think you said it had better properties than the standard RS winding. Although using those danged spools during winding I could do without . Nah, it was fun, really.

OR THIS Enhanced Pentagons Post 4484

Lots of life events going on here lately, but trying to do what I can.
On my mini asym motor to induction generator replication , hoping my Quad pentagon 4 stator window motor can do some good work, driving a shade pole motor converted to an induction generator. Dug up some old web research I did a couple years ago and found DIRECTIONS TO CONVERT AN INDUCTUCTION MOTOR. Sounds pretty easy. gotta get some capacitors. Working on coupling the motors & "generator" now, one is a 3/8" shaft the other 1/2". Did a test run and on one brush set at 12v I get 2700RPM & generator needs 3000, so I am right in the ball park. After I screwed things down and braced things up and got it aligned, I was getting 3600 RPM! This it the "generator":

[Midaztouch]

UFO race bike: Sponsorship

UFO & Team U.P

Got some conformational news for us. I had a meeting with the owner of the motorcycle engineering company. He asked me to bring my wife and two children. We talked about family, the UFO race bike targets and what is possible. (UFO, he said he saw an UFO! Cornboy, his son is the main Professor of Rare Earth Metals in Japan. Did someone say secret sauce!) He has agreed to take our teams race bike on for free.

Conditions: All used parts; rear suspensions, aluminum rims, front forks, etc may be used on our bikes as "LOANED". All welding for the UFO motor placement, battery pack case and other, will be done for free. All new part will be the same price he pays. Pay Customers and his racing teams take priority for space, parts and tools.(any part(s) will be taken off of our bikes if he needs and our bikes will be put in storage, if space is needed) Plus my wife must write all proposals and prepare documents..... It sounded perfectly fair to me. I agreed to all and shook hands.

Team UP's two Aluminum framed bikes. We have a "96" CBR250 and he donated a "94" NSR250(he likes that we are keeping our planet clean and 100% electric motorcycles). I have 2 UFO kits, so we will put a UFO motor in both bikes and check handling performance. ...almost forgot. Part of the deal is that he gets to keep one of the bikes, his choice but he must pay for his batteries. All good though

In Japanese tradition, he "Welcomed In" my wife and I. By giving us his company's leather key chains...and my wife a helmet and keys to a cute used 50cc scooter with a basket on front. That's Japanese style

The "Deal" is done! Lets get the "bugs" out of the Circuit boards! We need High Voltage! It's official, we have sponsorship for TEAM UP!



Keep it Clean and Green

[JohnStone]

... We need High Voltage! It's official, we have sponsorship for TEAM UP!

1.
What do you refer to be high voltage? Monster stands about 600V - spikes of course included. Spikes are defined by last amperage to be switched off, how fast switching is and spikes add to PSU voltage. In fact high voltage depends on specific application. It needs to be defined.

2.
If we use FETs with higher voltage they have the drawback of more RDSon = more heat at same voltage. We can use more FETs in parallel but then we need to review Monster circuit thouroughly and possibly a new miniaturized layout (less inductivity = faster).
Else we can use those SiC (silicone carbide) semiconductors from Cree. (Some other companies come up with SiC technolog being licensed by Cree) They offer 1200V and still low RDSon and still fast because of low gate capacitance (about 50 USD for one piece). I do not know just now if we face some additional technical demands. Needs to be evaluated.
Please regard this to be a future outlook for next steps.

3. Further outlook
If your purse is well filled you can imagine using SiC modules. This specific one contains 3 push / pull stages you can put in parallel but use one (pull only) half stage each. For this modue we would add the driving part of monster as dedicated and optimized PCB.
1200V / 3x87A continuous or 3x 370A short pulses / 320W heat dissipation possible
Price at moment: 455 USD at Newark. Astounding: 682.50 USD at AMAZONE ?????
JS