My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Cornboy 555]

Well, that's great news.
I figure we do not need to develop more "monsterous" Monster drivers. We might get the current design shrinked in size along some minor improvements. Then it is ready for testing setups of all kind in public hand. DOT
Those SiC modules will flood the market soon along drastic price reduction (expected: 50% per year).
They incorporate up to 10 SiC FETs, 100A ...1000A, 600V...1200V, 35ns, 14 mOhm switching, operation temp. 225°C.

The good news is that the current technology prepares to serve free energy devices and is somewhat ahead.
JS

Please John Stone don't stop being even more monsterous with your monster's, SiC technology, i believe will take some time to be affordable for our group, and as in the past with various products, possibly only made available to companies who are deemed fit and proper to have access to them, if you catch my drift.

Regards Cornboy.

[GlenWV]

Imperial motors on EBay

Greetings all:

While poking around on EBay, I found this vendor offering Imperial motors.

partsforcarts2011 | eBay

I contacted them and they have several motors from 0.5 hp to 3.6 hp.

My thought was to purchase a pair of the same model. One to rework as a prime mover, the other to wind as a generator.

Imperial's website doesn't give much information, or offer a parts list, so I'm not sure if these will work for our application.

If these will work, they offer an affordable way to move further into 'the game.'

The 3.6 hp, 66 frame looks interesting: 36 Volt Drive Motor Imperial Electric Motor 3 6 HP | eBay

Comments or information on these motors is welcome.

The seller wants to move these motors. Direct contact is:

"Caryn Priest" <[email protected]>

glen

[iankoglin]

Greetings all:

While poking around on EBay, I found this vendor offering Imperial motors.

partsforcarts2011 | eBay

I contacted them and they have several motors from 0.5 hp to 3.6 hp.

My thought was to purchase a pair of the same model. One to rework as a prime mover, the other to wind as a generator.

Imperial's website doesn't give much information, or offer a parts list, so I'm not sure if these will work for our application.

If these will work, they offer an affordable way to move further into 'the game.'

The 3.6 hp, 66 frame looks interesting: 36 Volt Drive Motor Imperial Electric Motor 3 6 HP | eBay

Comments or information on these motors is welcome.

The seller wants to move these motors. Direct contact is:

"Caryn Priest" <[email protected]>

glen

G'day Glen
If you buy these motors you have to pull them apart taking off the old wire try to find spare parts and then rebuild the modded motor.
with the UFO packet ordered from Imperial there is no wire on it, it has the extra commutator and following through the UFO Vids you have the complete motor you probably will save say $100 but Like the ones that have bought the Kits I think that they are really worth the price.
Kindest Regards

Kogs thinking allowed rather thinking aloud

[GlenWV]

Imperial motors on EBay

G'day Glen
If you buy these motors you have to pull them apart taking off the old wire try to find spare parts and then rebuild the modded motor.
with the UFO packet ordered from Imperial there is no wire on it, it has the extra commutator and following through the UFO Vids you have the complete motor you probably will save say $100 but Like the ones that have bought the Kits I think that they are really worth the price.
Kindest Regards

Kogs thinking allowed rather thinking aloud

Hello there Kogs:

You are correct about having to take the motors apart, remove the wire, and so forth. I don't mind that.

A commutator, end plate, brushes, and so forth would have to be purchased. There is a motor rewind shop in the area that will get the parts for me. (Those folks actually gave me several pounds of #14 gauge wire for one of my UFO coils.)

I do not doubt for a minute that the UFO motor kit is worth the price. But, a hundred dollars saved is a hundred dollars that I can use for other 'stuff'. (mouser stuff, newark stuff, tayda stuff, digiKey stuff... you get the drift.)

For those who choose to do so, the UFO motor kit is the way to go. Some folks like a clean start and that's fine. New parts are nice to work with.

Part of the fun, for me, is to scrounge around, dumpster dive, see what one can find, and run with it. (Kogs, I jes cain hep it. Tis the way I'm wired ;-)

Used motors offer another avenue for experimentation and building. It ain't-a-gonna be for all, but maybe someone will find it helpful.

glen

[Midaztouch]

Moving today! .... So the project begins

Team UP,

Today is finally moving day! I get to take this big box from under my desk and move it into its new home!!!!

Keeping Clean and Green
Midaz

[JohnStone]

Hello there Kogs:
....
For those who choose to do so, the UFO motor kit is the way to go. Some folks like a clean start and that's fine. New parts are nice to work with.

Part of the fun, for me, is to scrounge around, dumpster dive, see what one can find, and run with it. (Kogs, I jes cain hep it. Tis the way I'm wired ;-)

Used motors offer another avenue for experimentation and building. It ain't-a-gonna be for all, but maybe someone will find it helpful.

glen

Hi Glen,
Ufo choose this special type of "UFO motor" because he knew that the housing has spare space for the second commutator - preventing mechanical mods. If you change to another type you need to check agian for space, pole count, space for windings around poles, winding pattern .....
You should take in account that Imperial might buy some cheaper motors at China as well. They might have no spare parts in those cases.
I myself stay away from Imperial kit because due to transport, customs and VAT it will be more then twice the price compared to all those guys living in a less regulted world.
If a motor has not enough space for second commutator you neet to add the space or buy two of them.
I bought 2 MY1016 Chineese ones (all are 20 pole). I asked one ebay seller for a defective and returned part and he had one for very low price.
The windings are so poorly fixed that you can extract them without any effort (screw dirver and pliers -> 15 minutes).
I got the housings machined at shaft side down to stator magnets. Joining those machined housings at former shaft side give a new housing with original space for commutators at both sides. Now I will get a custom machined shaft and then windig will start.

Please understand: I do not recommend to do what I did or anyone else. I talk to you in order to urge you thinking any step to the very end. I want you to succeed in the very end.
JS

[Midaztouch]

Moved in

Team UP

Today was a very hard day of cleaning! Our workspace is cleaned off and Radiance is in her new home

From the OLD comes the NEW

Midaz

[JohnStone]

Hi Stupify,
few effects plenty of setups. We concentrate to assymmetric motors - hand on.

Delete action:
choose at you post right hand bottom: edit
choose at you post right hand bottom: delete
choose left hand bottom: delte message
choose bottom right hand: delete this message
JS

[GlenWV]

imperial motors

Hi Glen,
Ufo choose this special type of "UFO motor" because he knew that the housing has spare space for the second commutator - preventing mechanical mods. If you change to another type you need to check agian for space, pole count, space for windings around poles, winding pattern .....
You should take in account that Imperial might buy some cheaper motors at China as well. They might have no spare parts in those cases.
I myself stay away from Imperial kit because due to transport, customs and VAT it will be more then twice the price compared to all those guys living in a less regulted world.
If a motor has not enough space for second commutator you neet to add the space or buy two of them.
I bought 2 MY1016 Chineese ones (all are 20 pole). I asked one ebay seller for a defective and returned part and he had one for very low price.
The windings are so poorly fixed that you can extract them without any effort (screw dirver and pliers -> 15 minutes).
I got the housings machined at shaft side down to stator magnets. Joining those machined housings at former shaft side give a new housing with original space for commutators at both sides. Now I will get a custom machined shaft and then windig will start.

Please understand: I do not recommend to do what I did or anyone else. I talk to you in order to urge you thinking any step to the very end. I want you to succeed in the very end.
JS

Greetings John:

Thank you for your work on this forum and for commenting on my post. I appreciate it.

Comments like your's and Kogs' is why I posted as I did.

I could find no drawings or parts lists on Imperial's website, so I thought there might be information and opinions here.

Next thing for me to do is to call Imperial and see what shakes. (just thought of that while sitting here - go figure!)

thanks again,

glen

[JohnStone]

....
Next thing for me to do is to call Imperial and see what shakes. (just thought of that while sitting here - go figure!)....

Be careful if calling Imperial! Some month back in this forum there was a contact posted. Only this coantact knows what an Ufo kit is and only there you will get a reasonable price. Dyann only is the godess of Ufo kit there.
Please note: DeRosa, Dyann Email: [email protected]
Machine might have the correct phone number.

Here you can have a glance of the kit Lightworker got. Those packing problems he experienced might be gone now.

JS

[adversarius]

Hi All

I have a novice question. Why do you pulse the machine? Is it just to bring down input power and/or for recovering the field collapse (energy recovery if you will)?

Regards

[JohnStone]

....Why do you pulse the machine? Is it just to bring down input power and/or for recovering the field collapse (energy recovery if you will)?...

Hi, welcome!
You should visit this thread ( my-motors-got-me-tap-into-radiant-energy) started by Ufopolitics in order to answer just this question in advance to building motors. He explains all you want to know by pulsing a simple coil.
Unfortunately there is no shortcut except digging through those posts. Sorry for that.
Rgds
John

[hanon1492]

Hanon, it looks like Bajac-wongu, in fig 9 turned the 4-pole back to a 2-pole.
This is what I was thinking.

Hi,

According to the winding proposed by Bajac- Wonju (that I posted in my previous post into this thread) the Figuera patent 30376 should have a wire between two poles, then it crosses diametraly the drum, passes between the other two poles in the other side and again crosses diametraly the rotating drum. With this winding you get an induced magnetic field which is at 90º of the inducer magnetic field. Therefore no Lenz Law is reflecting back to the inducer coils. ( I think - if I have interpreted fine that document-)



Machine, I don´t understand the winding that you propose for patent 30378 because you place the coils where there are not inducer coils. Could you give any more details of your winding?

Regards

Update:

[sampojo]

mini asym motor/induction generator replication had a failure

from Post 5389
On my mini asym motor to induction generator replication, hoping my Quad pentagon 4 stator window motor can do some good work, driving a shade pole motor converted to an induction generator. Dug up some old web research I did a couple years ago and found DIRECTIONS TO CONVERT AN INDUCTUCTION MOTOR. Sounds pretty easy. gotta get some capacitors. Working on coupling the motors & "generator" now, one is a 3/8" shaft the other 1/2". Did a test run and on one brush set at 12v I get 2700RPM & generator needs 3000, so I am right in the ball park. After I screwed things down and braced things up and got it aligned, I was getting 3600 RPM! This is the "generator":

Test results:
Just used old TV polarized caps as running caps as demo'd at the induction motor conversion site and got the motor to generate by doing exactly what was explained at the Induction Generator site. Couldn't get the induction motor to run as motor though as it had connections for a starter cap I assume which I did not have. But shocking the motor with 110v as trying to run it seemed to allow it to generate when rotated. I can't say for sure that there is nothing wrong with my induction motor-gen at this point I realize also. However my QP4 10-pole was not up to the task, could not get over 1500 rpm using 2 brush sets, had 23vac on the gen side. AND of course smoke-checked a brush set. Used solder to connect the brush wire to the outside wire and I think it probably melted. Autopsy to follow. I thought the induction generator would not load up that much without any electrical load on spin-up.

Possible solution: I have a 1725 rpm motor, but my QP4-10pole may still get hot

[machinealive]

Glen, Dyann's # 1-440-349-4083 ext#117

Hanon, I apologize, I didn't realize that was the virtual field patent. I'm going to be spinning my drum, the coils will be around the drum, so they will enter the field, and that space b/t coils was just to show where I changed direction. Also, I am going to use DC or pulsed DC, but eventually, will be trying to slow drum and start rotating the field with arduino. I want to build through the patents. I will get there, but Likly not with AC, stay tuned.

I started winding imperial, I had to find another shop close by. Wouldn't help, so I came back with 10 large coffes, then I got lots of free stuff, new friends.