My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Ufopolitics]

Imperial UFO Kit...

Hello Finn and Welcome !

I believe you understood Kogs wrong...He meant to first construct some cheaper small motors , in which case you DO need Two Motors to make one...

Related to the UFO Kit, it DOES have the essentials (except the winding enameled copper wire) to put together a whole Imperial P56.

The Bearings that comes with the kit are NOT high Speed rated...nor ceramics, nor expensive type.

Regards


Ufopolitics

[Fingregor123]

Roger Wilco Captain.

Wire and bearings to be ordered, check.

Onwards and upwards.

Regards

Finn.

[Ufopolitics]

Tried editing previous post but Pc playing up....

would anything from here suffice to cut our teeth on while waiting the UFO Kits?

Maplin | Maplin - The Electronics Specialist | Order Online for Fast Delivery

Have one close by....well close ish.

Regards

Finn.

Hello Finn,

I saw this Motor below on the site above...

MFA General Purpose Motor 19000rpm | Maplin


They have several with same picture, different prices, different top speeds...

Just get the cheapest ones for your tests and learning...since you will need Two of them.

I believe they are Five(5) Poles, and I see easy tabs bent to take apart brush caps...so making an All North Five Winding, would be A good experience and easy to build, in order to compare even with the more expensive and fastest ones on that site...

The hardest part on this build...is to cut the end ring of one and add it/solder it/glue it to the other cut one...since this operation must come out perfectly straight so no magnet binding with rotor...once you assemble the whole thing.

So, main part here is to FIRST DO all the mechanical assembly...test that is spinning free, not rubbing...with magnets on, it would have normal drag...then do the winding.

Use 26 awg (look for mm equivalent) from 8 to 12 turns per coil , the more the better...(2 Coils in the Pair...)

This Video will show you basically the winding shape in 3D of One (1) Pair composed of Two (2) Coils...The whole motor have Five Pairs...and disregard the spec's of 30 awg.

The Plan View for ALL N is below:

[IMG][/IMG]

This video has the right spec's in the beginning (8TX2 @ Pair & awg=26)...However, in latest videos I did it with (12TX2 : 26 awg)

It is better to start playing with small toys like this, before going into Imperial...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Fingregor123]

[Ufopolitics]

Great!


Hello and you are welcome Finn,

I have more pleasure teaching a new member on a new build... than arguing with an old one about OU...

That little motor seems to have a pretty good sized shaft, that should allow room for the two commutators...

Your start would be to put together first, the Asymmetric Rotor with the two commutators...so, strip all wire of one rotor to be wound and the "parts rotor" you could just cut wires to have access to GENTLY pull commutator out (be very carefull here, cause they are made of mica and brake like glass, so do not pull from just one copper element, but try to pull EVENLY with a fine "Y" clip remover screw driver that fits the whole or most lower area...or anything that would seat at level under comm...so you could press it out EVENLY, some come out easily...some don't)...set new comm apart by about similar distance from rotor surface as the factory one already on shaft.

This Rotor with the two comm (no windings yet) would serve you as a guide -in length- to cut both outer housings.

The way I do it simple, without the need to use a lathe to perform a perfect cut...I cut on the longer piece of housing right by the "shoulders" angle, leaving some room to be filed later on and measure a few points to make sure cut is even, run a guiding small tape if necessary...Then insert your rotor on the cut larger housing and measure how much more "fill" you need to cut off the shorter end to house the other end brush caps...Make sure not to cut too close to Brush housing indentations or where bending tabs are...so you do not weaken the Metal Ring Housing!!...

Use first some fast glue to just "tack" three or four points on the two part housing ...then check rotation. This way is easier to remove tacks and reweld with glue till you get proper alignment.

Oh, remove magnets before cutting housing with a carbide disc or even with a steel saw!!, magnets do not like heat!...but I see that motor have a "V" Clip and a retainer built in (two indentations from body cuts) to stop-press both magnets in place...magnets "should not" be glued...hope so.

Only once you get all this structures made, and secured welded both pieces of housings...magnets tested and no binding with rotor...then you start the winding process.


Regards Finn


Ufopolitics

[iankoglin]

G'day Finn
I am sorry I did not explain my self sufficiently But I see now I do not need to elaborate any more as UFO has answered all for you
I was intending when you purchased your first 2 or 3 small motors explain to wind the all North's as the original winding is now apparently old hat I personally have not as yet wound an all North's motor but will be doing so in the near future

Kindest Regards

[wantomake]

Sorry off topic

Ufopolitics,
You don't have to answer this if I'm being rude to post here this question.

I was a part of this adventure in the beginning and enjoyed with much learning, the modified motor generator I built from your instructions. I stopped cause can't afford the imperial motor, but still keep up reading here. Thanks for those good times.
Have been working on the elusive lockridge device for some time now. That's the reason I ask you.

Here is my question if you don't mind;
Will a high end 3D cad program with electrical, electronics,electromagnetic, transformer effect and the such, would it show all the effects each part of the device and how to tune or change parts of the machine?

If I'm way off here just call me crazy and I'll understand.

An old member and friend,
wantomake

[Ufopolitics]

It is all about "Your Programming"...

Ufopolitics,
You don't have to answer this if I'm being rude to post here this question.

I was a part of this adventure in the beginning and enjoyed with much learning, the modified motor generator I built from your instructions. I stopped cause can't afford the imperial motor, but still keep up reading here. Thanks for those good times.
Have been working on the elusive lockridge device for some time now. That's the reason I ask you.

Here is my question if you don't mind;
Will a high end 3D cad program with electrical, electronics,electromagnetic, transformer effect and the such, would it show all the effects each part of the device and how to tune or change parts of the machine?

If I'm way off here just call me crazy and I'll understand.

An old member and friend,
wantomake

[prochiro]

Wantomake

A cad program is a drawing or blueprint of what you have decided to make. You select the parts and how they go together. Some of the high end programs will check the drawing for general errors but not to the extent you asked about where they would suggest other parts. A 3D cad will show how the parts will look in three dim. I am afraid that if you want to put the project on a three Dim. and have the power to show how it works and redesign itself that you will come up short. There are programs costing many thousands of dollars that are helpful in some ways but the education to run one of these is great as as is the time. For designing a system nothing is better than learning to do it yourself. For showing others about your system, nothing is better than a cad.

Dana

[Fingregor123]

FYI - Little Update.

2x Motors bought, wire 26 SWG 0.450mm (closest I could find.)

Battery box, only thing they had was 2x1.5v, and the motors are 6-15V

Will try and find a 4x1.5v battery box on my travels ASAP.



Now reading and re-reading until dis assembly begins.

Regards

Finn.

[wantomake]

Wisdom

Thanks Ufopolitics,
This is exactly what I need to hear. Good wisdom from someone with experience.
I was in Japan for summer last year. Live in South Carolina.

I'm sure experiments are best to understand how a device should be designed, but to have something to use as a blueprint would be an advantage. There's got to be a better way to start and get results while building a device.

Yes I still use the treadmill motor/generator from time to time.

Thanks Dana, I agree this will be expensive in time and resources. But two years of my time and four years from the other people who are working on this device, it would seem we would be past the stage we are at. As you said I can communicate better also.This I believe (being inspired by Ufopolitics) is a most important tool for anybody in replicating a free energy device.

Thanks again for your wisdom,
wantomake

[Ufopolitics]

Great!!

FYI - Little Update.

2x Motors bought, wire 26 SWG 0.450mm (closest I could find.)

Battery box, only thing they had was 2x1.5v, and the motors are 6-15V

Will try and find a 4x1.5v battery box on my travels ASAP.



Now reading and re-reading until dis assembly begins.

Regards

Finn.

[Fingregor123]

3 Poles

Can take them back but that's all they had, mail order from somewhere in the UK may be the best bet?

Regards

Finn.

[Ufopolitics]

Ouch...

3 Poles

Can take them back but that's all they had, mail order from somewhere in the UK may be the best bet?

Regards

Finn.

Ouch!...

A Three Pole is good, but related to all north design, it does not have overlapped coils advantage, which keeps transferring energy from Pair to Pair...delivering a more robust flow.

However, a Three Pole is even more simple to build, winding wise...all coils are exactly the same winding direction and each one is independent from the other...so it can be done as well...plus you have more room to add more turns...

Does it have carbon brushes or copper strips rubbing the commutators?


Ufopolitics

[Midaztouch]

Finn

aboard! Study hard! It looks like you will be our representative in Scotland!


Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz