My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Ufopolitics]

Excellent Sampojo!!

-2.5A, 7000 rpm one brush set 12v
-two brush sets powered 12v, 8800rpm, amp draw on on brush set dropped to 1.4A, estimate around 3amps? Not even close to the old reading at 5amps one brush set.

Runs at 100-105degF, kinda hot to the touch. worried about ability to work, but should be OK with an amp drop with pulsing I hope, dropping the working temp too. Maybe run at a higher voltage if needed.

Loosened the brush spring tension another notch, just a gentle pressure, brushes just gliding on the commutator, not seeing any sparks so far.

Hello Sampojo!

Excellent run!, I knew you will align system so it will work sweet!

Could you make a Video?...and please make sure you have amp meter set for DC Amps...

If those Parameters are Linear...Imagine done with the Pulsers!....

Great RPM's!!

Please do NOT go higher Voltage yet...let's see how it behaves pulsing it at 12V first...

So it seems it was a mechanical drag...plus filthy commutator gaps?


Great work!!




Let's keep rolling!


Regards


Ufopolitics

[iankoglin]

Hello Kogs,

Nope, do NOT do it to the Imperial or the Razor...they do not need it...this applies only to small number of poles machines...like the one Ming is working on...a Three Pair of Coils.

I did it on my Imperial, not much...but did not make such a great difference...Machine Alive also did it...

I mean, it does reduces a bit, the arcing...but really, that kind of work to do it...is not worth it...PLUS, You are risking to damage your nice Commutators.


Regards


Ufopolitics

G'day UFO
Thanks for your fast reply
@ all As You notice I do not often reply thanking people I just Know how many posts everyone goes through to find things I really appreciate everyone's posts and replies

Kindest Regards to all

Kogs appreciates all posts

[machinealive]

Hey guys

Sorry I've been so busy.

2/10 cord of firewood left to process then done till October. I really want to be able to sit and work uninterrupted.

I bought a new batt charger, and finished charging batteries last night and I made heat sinks. Also had to cement those anchors in at table. Done.

I tried 24 volts and arduino locked, never got 1 full cycle, I was using the program Dana wrote after quad blink. Tonight after work, will have some time. I will try the quad blink first, then we'll see.

Dana's board also came today, so we have lots of options.
You have to let me know what I owe you Dana, thanks again.

Since we are pulsing now, I need to get current sensing, and a hall sensor for rpm. Need a data logger etc, but there isn't much point of working with nothing but rpm and volts in. So tonight ill work to get motor running, and read through Garry's tutorial.

Does Garry's program run if not using rpm sensor?

Anyway, I look forward to trying this out tonight.

[Midaztouch]

Spoke to Dyann at Imperial today

@All

I hope everyone is having a good week so far. I spoke to Dyann today. She was very pleasant to speak to as always. She sent memos to the quality control and shipping departments. She said she will take care of everything.

The problem was that I ordered two rotors. A full kit plus and extra rotor is too much for one box. Please be advises if you order an extra rotor or large part, your package may come in two boxes and an extra charge for the additional box. Rotors and large parts are too heavy.

For future orders, all commutators will be wrapped separately in bubble paper. A gentle reminder at the time of ordering is ok, if YOU need some reassurance.

Keep it Clean and Green
Richie

[JohnStone]

@All

I hope everyone is having a good week so far. I spoke to Dyann today. She was very pleasant to speak to as always. She sent memos to the quality control and shipping departments. She said she will take care of everything.

The problem was that I ordered two rotors. A full kit plus and extra rotor is too much for one box. Please be advises if you order an extra rotor or large part, your package may come in two boxes and an extra charge for the additional box. Rotors and large parts are too heavy.

For future orders, all commutators will be wrapped separately in bubble paper. A gentle reminder at the time of ordering is ok, if YOU need some reassurance.

Keep it Clean and Green
Richie

Suggestion:
Someone shall pack Imperial parts like required and send some pics of this procedure to Dyan in order to forward it to their packing / quality department. End of all discussions possible.
JS

[Hitby13kw]

Since we are pulsing now, I need to get current sensing, and a hall sensor for rpm. Need a data logger etc, but there isn't much point of working with nothing but rpm and volts in. So tonight ill work to get motor running, and read through Garry's tutorial.

Does Garry's program run if not using rpm sensor?

Anyway, I look forward to trying this out tonight.

@machine – Yes, you can use Garry’s program without a RPM sensors ~ it does work ~ ( this is also where we are in my build, trying to find the best RPM sensor for the Arduino ).

We anxiously await the results of your run tonight, best wishes in your work.

Hitby13kw

[machinealive]

Hi guys

I had a chance to get to my motors, first time since she locked-up. I was gonna try the quad blink. 2 of my 1 ohm gate resistors were toasted. not sure when it happened, likely when it locked.

so I hooked up the 4 hg switches and used 1-4 12v batteries. seemed to work best at around 4 hz/driver, and 10% duty.

I also need to pull the rear bearing out a tad, it started really shaking, starting at around 36v. couldn't turn 4 batteries duty past 6 %. I wont have to take rotor out, I think I can pull it out some by just taking the housing end off and using small gear pullers.

but I did make a little video, I'll post when its done loading, unless I fall asleep. Nothing brilliant, but if you want to see the hg switches, they seem to work good, can compare with linear and mosfet switching eventually.

Checked the gate resistors and they are all fine. So I feel confident they cooked when I ran program at 24v. I will try quadblink once I get motor straightened out.

Am going to get some sensors, data logger, etc tonight.

[JohnStone]

@Machine:
Burnt gate resistors ! confused!?!? FETs still OK, FET driver still OK!?!?!!
Either she fools us by pathing unpaved junctions in electronics or ?????? If that is true our monster driver is elicited scrap only.
OR
There are protection diodes from drain to gate in the circuit. Those diodes shall open their path at severe overvoltage condition with energy behind and shall reopen the gate in order to drain the excessive energy via normal FET path. Do they conduct too early or are they defective? Then they might discharge back EMV (or whetever you like call it) back into the driver directly. That is not the intention.

What voltage have the spikes at your motor?
JS

[Cornboy 555]

36

Hello everyone, just a short update, finally got most of the Epoxy buildup out of the rotor, and fitted comms to shaft, fitted Nomex .25mm slot paper, and tested how much wire can fit in average slot, by using short cutoff's.

Well no surprise there, 36 turns per coil half, 72 turns per coil pair, Hmmm, only concern is it will most likely be low resistance, aprox .5 ohm per coil pair, hopfully because of short on time, with 36 poles, it will be OK.

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Warm Regards Cornboy.

[machinealive]

Hello

I thought the vid downloaded last night. Guess not.
Here is the video,

4hg switch - YouTube

Also, I shouldn't have said the resistors were toast. I don't know yet if they are toast. I couldn't find them after I set them down, to check. But I will find them. I could have loosened them installing sinks, but I tried to re-solder before I removed them, and that didn't help. Once I unhook the hg's, I'll recheck fets, etc, but I don't need to, for now, and I know none are shorted. Not home right now.

edit, Cornboy, she's looking good.

[Lightworker1]

Hello everyone, just a short update, finally got most of the Epoxy buildup out of the rotor, and fitted comms to shaft, fitted Nomex .25mm slot paper, and tested how much wire can fit in average slot, by using short cutoff's.

Well no surprise there, 36 turns per coil half, 72 turns per coil pair, Hmmm, only concern is it will most likely be low resistance, aprox .5 ohm per coil pair, hopfully because of short on time, with 36 poles, it will be OK.

Warm Regards Cornboy.

Hello Cornboy your MAG3 is great piece of works of art. Good luck and keep us posted about progress. Thanks


@ Kogs. hello Kogs I think you bought FETS for the monster driver some while back in time. I wonder if you indeed did then please let me also know the source. Thanks.

@ hitby13KV. Hello I did notice you made some nice PCBs for the monster driver somewhile back.
What is the situation on possibility of some pcb house making them available?
Alternatively if they are on Eagle Cad files then is it possible for you sharing the files. Thanks

Warmest regards all

Nameste

lightworker1

[iankoglin]

Re Infineon Coolmos Fets

@ Kogs. hello Kogs I think you bought FETS for the monster driver some while back in time. I wonder if you indeed did then please let me also know the source. Thanks.


Warmest regards all

Nameste

lightworker1

G'day Light
Here it is

http://www.energeticforum.com/235576-post2120.html

Kindest Regards

Kogs Happy to help

[Hitby13kw]

Hello

Here is the video,

4hg switch - YouTube

Also, I shouldn't have said the resistors were toast. I don't know yet if they are toast. I couldn't find them after I set them down, to check. But I will find them. I could have loosened them installing sinks, but I tried to re-solder before I removed them, and that didn't help. Once I unhook the hg's, I'll recheck fets, etc, but I don't need to, for now, and I know none are shorted. Not home right now.

edit, Cornboy, she's looking good.

Machine,viewed your latest work, 2850 RPM 36V 4.6A - 3200 48V 4.9A a very interesting run, most intrigued by your use of the monster FET driver to energize the coils of 4 mercury relays instead of directly driving the motor (that’s one way to not burn out the FETs), what are the specs on your relays? After digging around in my old stuff a bit I was able to find 4 with 48VDC coils supposed to be able to switch 50A 600VAC might have to try that. What code are you running in the Arduino?

Hitby13kw

[machinealive]

I have motor bearing fixed. I should have pulled the other end out, but I think it's good.

I found one of the resistors, it measured 36.1 kohm, supposed to be 1 ohm.
Some of the n4148's were not working. Maybe when I soldered???

Hitby, here is where I bought the relays, same as UFO posted before, can't remember which amp rated, but will find it.http://www.wolfautomation.com/assets/15/CATALOGV.PDF

I was using Dana's second code with adjustable frequency and duty. I was thinking I could use a little motor and make a rotor button/ distributor cap, not even need a driver, all mechanical. But anything will switch the relays at least.

I ordered some current sensors and some other things, lots of nice parts for same price as one Kline clamp meter.

Here are current sensors

Pololu - ACS709 Current Sensor Carrier -75A to +75A

And a data logger
Adafruit Assembled Data Logging shield for Arduino ID: 1141 - $19.95 : Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits

[Cornboy 555]

Newbee.

Hello Everyone, i sorta knew i would be asking you guy's questions like this, i can hear UFO's, voice in the background, saying " i told you so " to start on small motors first.

So the very first rotor i have ever wound is the MAG3, and after winding the first coil pair, it dawned on me that i won't be able to fit the next pair right down in the bottom of the groove, because the first pair are in the way.

So from what i see, you need to wind the first lots of coil pairs with a large Fan type loop right down to the shaft, and as flat as possible, to leave room for the next pair, correct?

So i will need to insulate the shaft and rotor face, just to be sure?

It seems silly to be asking these basic questions, just lack of experience, is all.

Warm Regards Cornboy.

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