Use for the Tesla Switch

[Kepszlok]

Today i ran the system for 8 hours, and the upper batterys are swapped with the lowers at the start.

The situation was similar, the upper ones are mostly kept their charge while the lower ones are drained.


How to proceed further?

[Kepszlok]

Hi Matt!

Some time passed since our talks, but now i'm back with a working switch. I was able to put the third winding into my toroid and i let the circuit run for 6.5 hours.

This was the 'smaller one' with the optocoupled switches from your guide (page 25, with simple analog timer based switch). The batterys are 5Ah brand new ones. I do not used a graetz + puffer in the secunder winding, instead i simply used a 6.8Ohm power resistor for load.

~40Hz was the perfect switching frequency for maximum output voltage. That's about 20Vpp (with the load attached) - 6.8Vac according to a DMM.


What i experienced so far:
The 'upper' batterys are mostly kept their voltage, while the other two are drained as you can see in the first picture.

That draineing of the 'lower' two batterys will stops somtime?

[Matthew Jones]

You need to calculate switching cost, even though you have 6 volt battery all those diodes lose. After you know switching cost, power transfered, and time you can create a ratio for what is actually loss and what is cost.

If your switching back and forth your gonna lose, cause the battery is not good at being a capacitor, go one way till one bank is full and the other is not. If you can incorporate a third bank to rest, then you have one that charges, one that rests and one that discharges.

Most important figure loss and cost. Cost has to be supplemented and loss has to be done away with or supplemented.

Matt

[[email protected]]

Replication of JB circuit (DVD 38)

I built this with four 4Ah 12V motorcycle batteries, six MJL21194s, eight SB 570 diodes, two 10mm LEDs, six H11D1s, two MJE13005s (for Darlington arrangement on input signal), a LM7805, a knife zwitch, and a 6V battery (to run the Arduino).

It switches back and forth, 12V to 24V. One LED lights very bright while the other lights less bright, but twice as often (?). My other setup did the same thing. (?) Any suggestions?

It runs, but slowly loses. I set up a fwbr/cap unit to take AC off the Neg end terminals of each bank (not shown), which worked, but encreased drain on setup even with a very small load. This thing will run for a long time, but...

This fun, but I need energy! lol

Bob

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Getting started

Hello Matt et al,

My name is Bob French and I am a friend of Dave's. About 3 months ago I built two of John Bedini's circuits from DVD 38 using an Arduino instead of his chip (because I had too much trouble soldering it together), one with 13Ah Walmart batteries and one with 4Ah motorcycle batteries. They both switch back and forth 24v to 12v to 24v..., but the batteries fell though very slowly.

Dave said that he had built several and got them to work right, but only with your help, so I downloaded your 32 page guide and am waiting for the last of the parts to arrive. I will build a unit using four 12Ah motorcycle batteries, 21194's, and an Arduino, etc., and get back to you.

I disassembled the 13Ah system, but the other is fine. The interesting thing about JB's circuit is that the portion connecting the Neg.s has an LED opposing the other diodes...which should stop all current both directions, yet the LED lights. (?)

OK, I'll get back to you when I have something more.

Thanks,

Bob

[lotec]

I know that NPN: (base to emitter) trigger (collector to emitter)
PNP: (emitter to base) trigger (emitter to collector)

That's enough. What else do I need to know?

Maybe this circuit can give you some ideas for your switching.

If you built this little practice circuit and touch point A to the positive then the negative your battery while watching what happens with the LEDs, then you will know what happens when you swap the little signal transistors with IRF 9540 and IRF 540 complimentary P and N channel 100V 30A power FETS.

They are even easier because you dont use the 10K resistors on the base/gate and point A can be connected straight to pin3 of a 555. And they probably use less bias cuurent than NPN PNP.

Its not everything but its a start.

[holtage]

What knowledge I am lacking?

I know that NPN: (base to emitter) trigger (collector to emitter)
PNP: (emitter to base) trigger (emitter to collector)

That's enough. What else do I need to know?

[lotec]

Here's a good read you may find of interest: "Explanation of John Bedini's Formation of Negative Resistors by Tom Bearden 4-26-00" at the link below (odd link title for some reason):

New Page 1

Thanks for the link, it was an interesting read. Im starting to see the complexities of Tesla Switching.

[MorningStar]

Thanks for the extra info, given your situation I wont press you for those types of details.

Regards
lotec

Here's a good read you may find of interest: "Explanation of John Bedini's Formation of Negative Resistors by Tom Bearden 4-26-00" at the link below (odd link title for some reason):

New Page 1

[lotec]

2x is worth the effort..? When people finally start to understand how the impedance of a battery (IE negative resistor) works and how to track it then they'll figure out how the Tesla switch or Benitez switch works and why. Seeing near infinite gains is really worth it too.
Unfortunately to get to that point I was bound to an NDA and I am not sure who owns that at this time so I cannot help you with specifics, I enjoy not being in court after my youth and all I experienced at that time.

t

Thanks for the extra info, given your situation I wont press you for those types of details.

Regards
lotec

[Matthew Jones]

@Mathew Jones

I did ask for feedback about the potential gains in a Tesla Switch and you gave it. I forgot to say thanks, so thanks for that.

I read the first few pages of the thread and understand you were getting close to 8 times what one would normally get using batteries conventionally, in my mind thats definitely worth the effort.

Regards
lotec

2x is worth the effort..? When people finally start to understand how the impedance of a battery (IE negative resistor) works and how to track it then they'll figure out how the Tesla switch or Benitez switch works and why. Seeing near infinite gains is really worth it too.
Unfortunately to get to that point I was bound to an NDA and I am not sure who owns that at this time so I cannot help you with specifics, I enjoy not being in court after my youth and all I experienced at that time.

Cheers
Matt

[lotec]

@Mathew Jones

I did ask for feedback about the potential gains in a Tesla Switch and you gave it. I forgot to say thanks, so thanks for that.

I read the first few pages of the thread and understand you were getting close to 8 times what one would normally get using batteries conventionally, in my mind thats definitely worth the effort.

Regards
lotec

[Matthew Jones]

This is a PNP tutorial
PNP Transistor Tutorial - The Bipolar PNP Transistor

This is an NPN tutorial:
NPN Transistor Tutorial - The Bipolar NPN Transistor

You have to know the difference and how to drive them before you use them. And although all answers are available, you have to try to understand before someone else can help. So the tutorial will teach you the difference.

Cheers
Matt

[holtage]

May I asked what do you mean by invert the signal?

Is it means that when the signal is high(current flows), you make it into low(current do not flow)?

[holtage]

NPN or PNP?

To invert the signal, connect the base of PNP to the output pin of 555. Which pin of 555 should I connect to the emitter? Ground of battery or the 0-Volts pin of 555? I still confused.