Tesla / Imhotep Radiant Energy Circuit

[IczerTesla]

thank you for the link.. they have some good informative videos

[mcombatti]

On Configuration...

Hi mcombatti,
and welcome to the discussion.

please elaborate on the "configuration" and how it is "crucial".

__________________________________________________ ______________
Static electricity includes positive, negative charges, and ionized air (ionization occurs due to sunlight (uv/infrared), weather, seismic activity, solar activity (flares), wind, particles in the air (clouds included)...the entire world is a vast ocean of charges

Configuration
Antenna - rectification of charges (use a full bridge rectifier) -use of a single diode to channel charges is stupid in the fact that if you receive 1000 positive charges and 500 negative..you're charge is now only 500 positives because the dipole has been established, and energy "wasted" an AC rectifier boosts potential. as with the above numbers, the remaining 500 negative can be drawn via the ground (in reality the circuit will "channel" energy necessary out of 'thin air' with or without the ground.

large equipment like car ignition coils and spark plugs waste all the energy before it's been established. (stay with small lossless parts!, the current is only established using pulses, and the HV potential is still too low to approach small parts breakdown point)

MOST IMPORTANTLY - if you live BELOW 2000'...near sea level.... your charge potential is going to be relatively low NO MATTER WHAT YOU DO... I believe the exact number is 1750' (will retrieve reference later)...at which ionization in the air is at it's critical tapping point..

****For the one living near power lines... High Voltage (HV) or High Frequency (HF) can increase ionization in the surrounding air...the point of collecting radiant energy includes these stray HV power lines loss as well (ionized air)... radio waves... seismic waves... pretty much all resonant frequencies trapped in the earths lower layer of air (as they cause the "draw down" from ionization... If you have a plasma ball running in the room...a van de graff, wilmhurst or any 'static/ionizing' devices near (within 20') a radiant collector...you'll notice HUGE amounts of power being collected.

basically... the best way to draw radiant energy is to separate the dipole (+/-) then increase potential on one side of the scale and keep this potential from being "corrected"/balanced... Think of it as a form of osmosis... with a duality struggling to always achieve balance...

Working on the materials to post right now :-) has been a busy day with family from the north. Don't lose faith I'll post them soon (hopefully soon if family stops bugging me :-D)

[mcombatti]

A quick post

Here's the circuit for anyone, whether u live within the radiant tapping zone.. It will work... This circuit uses an alpha particle emitter to initiate a forced bias potential on the ground of the circuit (negative resistor ;-))... Pumping/forcing the antenna to draw radiant energy to itself.. Videos and other circuits after when I get the time.. Just couldn't leave you all hanging without something... Here's just something to reproduce and start exploring with a "working" model that can fit in the palm of your hand with no lengthy antennas or grounds.. And actually get more than a meager volt or two...

I present the Portable Radiant Energy Receiver circuit #5 created by myself :-)
Start building...

***note the 100-470 uF caps will be the voltage stoppers.. Use 35v.. You'll get 35 volts.. Use 100.. You'll get 100.. A 555 is not necessary.. But when used causes the "pump" to increase voltage with a resistor on the + side... Faster switching.. More current...

[StweenyA]

@mcombatti - thanks, that looks very interesting!

Must caps be electrolytic? You don't show polarity in your circuit.
And must they be HV, as you said above, if you use 35v, you can only get 35v.... will they really work, or was it an example?

Is it a combination of methods, will any one work, or must they all be used together?

And can one simply connect the output circuit to the + and - of your circuit?

Sorry if the questions are silly, I'm not understanding your circuit completely yet, but hope to soon as it looks really promising!

I have already tried simple antenna circuits before, but much much simpler (single diode and cap) etc, and uninsulated antenna, which did not work.

[mcombatti]

Reply ...

@mcombatti - thanks, that looks very interesting!

Must caps be electrolytic? You don't show polarity in your circuit.
And must they be HV, as you said above, if you use 35v, you can only get 35v.... will they really work, or was it an example?

**The two antenna caps must be ceramic/mylar/polystrene (spelling?)... 2 250 475k work great :-) (usually green)
**the two ground caps work best as electrolytic or high performance condensers (leyden jars would work)
**where the output voltages are...the two caps are in series (right diode connected to positive lead of cap... that cap's negative lead connected to the positive of the left ground cap where the ground is connected...the left cap's negative is connected to the negative end of the negative output and negative end of the left diode)and the gound connected at the center of the two lower caps which is also attached between the two horizontal diodes (standard voltage doubler configuration)
ALTHOUGH...oddly with radiant energy, the voltage DOES NOT double (it's being used to RECTIFY the incoming charges rather than double), the output voltage is the two ground cap voltages divided by 2... so if you use two 50v electrolytic caps... the voltage will be 50 on the output. two 100's will be 100 volts
**you may use lower value capacitors, depending on the power output you are looking to achieve.
** The rectification is used because we are looking at the + & - charges as AC ...even though it may be +-+-+- or ++++-- or any combination as the charges are "incoming"...so rather than allowing one + and one - to kill the dipole...we rectify them and send them to the output terminals for a load.

Is it a combination of methods, will any one work, or must they all be used together?

**In the circuit I present, it will work regardless of elevation since it is forcing a biased charge potential (negative resistor) using the ground and an alpha emitter. The test tube is setup just like a leyden jar except it is "charging" internally (The alpha emissions hit the inner foil causing charge to rise), forcing an opposite charge to occur on the outside layer which the insulated antenna is coiled around...and draws these two dipoles into the circuit and they are forced through a load to reach equilibrium (+ & - = neutral).
This method of forcing a biased potential is equivalent to packing a few hundred feet of antenna into a small test tube...thus reducing the need for a long/high antenna and removes the need for a ground since it is established within the tube...making it portable :-)


And can one simply connect the output circuit to the + and - of your circuit?
**Not sure if I'm interpreting this correctly, but a load may be attached at the + and - output terminals of the circuit...without a 555 oscillating (flip/flop) the output, it will power merely a led...oscillation keeps the charge pump working and creates current..no oscillation(on/off flip flop) will rapidly deplete the output caps... when the caps are empty, and no load is connected, they instantly charge back up... from which they can be discharged again...OSCILLATION is essential since when a load (ie small dc motor) is connected, the dipole is killed when the circuit is on...so a minute switch off instantly recharges the caps, and the switch back on send the charge through the load neutralizing the dipole again :-).... a fast oscillation will seem as if the dc is constant :-) Hopefully you can understand this. even if not oscillating, if the voltage established is too high...and you decide to power a mere led...it will blow the led if the voltage is too high for the LED :-)


Sorry if the questions are silly, I'm not understanding your circuit completely yet, but hope to soon as it looks really promising!

I really advise everyone acquaint themselves with the Testatica Machine (sometimes spelled Testatika). If you can understand how this circuit works by pumping charge and using the oscillation to increase potential (I believe tesla did something called the hair pin circuit or disruptive spark gap)... you can use this simple circuit and a van de graff/ wilmhurst machine to recreate your own testatika.

Another example is making a few of these circuit wired in series and exciting with a mere plasma ball... you'll soon realize that the output wattage is greater than the wattage necessary to power the ball :-) I'm re-establishing a website at osblueflame.com with all my works and testatika reproduction (since it was hacked and all information deleted..I have many backups :-)) Some of my works are followups of my grandfather's (passed in 2007) whom was a good friend of the late tesla.. I have a few documents my grandfather hoarded for years..and am now testing the circuitry and concepts.


I have already tried simple antenna circuits before, but much much simpler (single diode and cap) etc, and uninsulated antenna, which did not work.

if at first you dont succeed, try it again a different way.

[mcombatti]

By the way...

A 1N4001 diode or germanium 1N60 or 1N34 have yielded the best results (1N60 in particular ;-)) the lower the voltage drop the better.. Have not tried shottskys

[StweenyA]

@mcombatti, thanks very much for your reply

Yes I understand the concept of "don't kill the dipole".
I will try replicating this later, it is already early hours of the morning here, so not trusting myself with HV at this current moment...

Thanks again for the explanation! cheers for now

[mcombatti]

About alpha emitters

@mcombatti, thanks very much for your reply

Yes I understand the concept of "don't kill the dipole".
I will try replicating this later, it is already early hours of the morning here, so not trusting myself with HV at this current moment...

Thanks again for the explanation! cheers for now

Alpha emitters generate low radiation.. The tube will stop it and skin can stop the alpha emissions as well.. DO NOT INJEST AN ALPHA EMITTER. americium can be obtained by getting a cheap smoke detector from a yard sale.. And taking the small bead out of it :-) a little bit goes a long way.. If u have a Geiger counter, you can test other materials... Some granites I've used emit a lot of alpha particles.. Betas and higher can be used.. But then there becomes radiation dangers.. The more surface area of the emitter increases the charge pump activation as well... But too much will blow the circuit :-)

[citfta]

hi mcombatti,

You have posted some very interesting ideas. Is there enough Americium in a smoke detector to give good results with your circuit? I have a few old ones lying around that no longer work and thought I might give your circuit a try with some of the Americium if I can figure out how to get it out of the smoke detectors. Thanks for the info and looking forward to what ever you can share with us.

Carroll

Sorry I was posting at the same time as you were I guess.

[mcombatti]

Americium

hi mcombatti,

You have posted some very interesting ideas. Is there enough Americium in a smoke detector to give good results with your circuit? I have a few old ones lying around that no longer work and thought I might give your circuit a try with some of the Americium if I can figure out how to get it out of the smoke detectors. Thanks for the info and looking forward to what ever you can share with us.

Carroll

Sorry I was posting at the same time as you were I guess.

Yes the small bit of americium works well.. Its inside the black cylindrical unit.. Usually marked radioactive.. Take the top off the cylinder and/or unsolder it and push it out with a phillips screwdriver. If u find granite.. The black crystalline chunks (uraninite) works well also and is handlable.. But gives off alpha and beta particles.. So as well with this (especially if chipping to break) DO NOT INJEST :-)

[mcombatti]

Wall plug unit

Since I don't have time for the video of taking apart the circuit above for tonight, putting it together and demonstrating.. I'll leave you all with a wall plug unit I designed. The black side banana plug is for a ground wire if brought let's say camping :-) and the red banana is the antenna side... When plugged into a wall socket, the ground is the ground of the plug, and the house wiring becomes a very large antenna :-) (brick seems to shield some energy)... The cover (not shown) has a female outlet plugin... This configuration although using grid associated wires.. Does not use inductance or feedback from the grid... Rather uses the house and surrounding power lines as a vast antenna :-)

Oh ya.. The front bananas are for multimiter test leads :-) red +, black -
More to come.

[mcombatti]

Insulated plate

Hello All.
I have been trying to re-create this invention for a while..
Ive tried to tape foil to cardboard pieces ( like a plate type) Ive tried sawing the bottom off a hollow plastic horse kick ball thing.. round sphere shape with flat panels making up the roundness of the complete ball.. (kinda like a really scaled down Wardenclyffe tower dome)
and now Im using a piece of aluminum plate I borrowed from work which I polished to a mirror like sheen.

My biggest problem is the wiring and electrical know-how.. I have a basic idea of how this concept works.. But I always run into a dead-end when it comes to having it actually work.. plus I have kind of a lot of power lines coming through my yard.. I wouldnt want to count the resonance from the lines as my "radiant energy"

My first attempt I tried to make a Leyden jar as my condenser,capacitor.. but I couldnt even get that to produce a spark.

I was pretty much wondering if anyone would like to offer me some pointer or tips for this device? for instance.. the patent states that the collecting plate should be insulated.. does that mean the whole plate? 1-side? and insulated with what? Im about to use saran-wrap for the "collecting" side of the plate and cardboard as the backing. Anyhow.. any tips either in a PM or on a thread would be very much apprieciated!! thank you all and sorry for the rant.

Glue aluminum foil to cardboard, polished or smooth surface is really not important... It's just to prevent neutralizing charges from coming together from each side of the plate (killing the dipole) :-) As for sparkage, unless you're above the 1750' above sea level and have a 200' antenna (which in the US requires permits by the FAA over 100'). It simply won't happen, and the actual energy received will be very disappointing :-) the height of the antenna is to establish a wide potential between + charges (the sky) and - charges (the earth)

[citfta]

Hi mcombatti,

Does the Americium need to be electrically connected to the ground or just stuck to it with some glue or something? Or does it need to be insulated from the ground? Looking forward to any other interesting circuits you can share with us.

Thanks,

Carroll

[Dave45]

has anyone sourced the caps?

[citfta]

Hi Dave45,

I already have the caps I plan to use but they should be available almost anywhere. Even Radio Shack should have something that will work. Although for higher voltage ones you would probably need to go to one of the online suppliers like Mouser or Digikey or Jameco. I have some 180 uf 450 volt caps I got from Ebay that I am going to use for the electrolytic caps.

Carroll