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How to turn plastic waste into diesel fuel cheaply

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  • plastic waste

    thats awsome l like that condensers l try to make somthing like that with ice thanks for pictures thanks every one . l have last question did someone know if l make l litre of oil from plastics pp pe ps what are the percentage of disiel gasoline wax parafin and petroulum? because l dont want to pay expensive electricity and produce little fuel thanks every one

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    • Originally posted by jonathan View Post
      thats awsome l like that condensers l try to make somthing like that with ice thanks for pictures thanks every one .
      You are welcome.
      Originally posted by jonathan View Post
      l have last question did someone know if l make l litre of oil from plastics pp pe ps what are the percentage of disiel gasoline wax parafin and petroulum? because l dont want to pay expensive electricity and produce little fuel thanks every one
      According to research reports, heavy fractions are about 10% of the yield, diesel fuel is about 30% of the yield, gasoline (petrol) is about 50% of the yield, and gasses, such as: methane, propane and butane are about 10%.

      The solution to the heavy fractions, if you do not want them, is just put them back into the retort for a second cracking.
      I have been running various blends of waste oils and unleaded gasoline in a 1983 Chevy G-20 van with a 6.2L diesel V-8 engine, with a Stanadyne Rotary DB2 IP since Feb, 2007. I have started the engine with no difficulty and no block heater on an 80/20 (WVO/gas) blend down to 0F (-18c). I have found that by blending as little as 15% gasoline in the summer, and as much as 50% in the winter, my engine starts and runs as if it was running on diesel fuel.

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      • plastic waste

        thanks my friend l am trying to biuld an oil stove and biuld large pyrolysis l try to make 3 condenser for fuels l thing thats my big problem how to conect the condensers l will try thanks everyone for help

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        • jonathan, there are a number of ways to connect your condensers. IN an oil refinery the condenser is a tower with taps at the cut locations. There is a lip just below the top to collect the condensate and direct it to the tap. This is a bit complicated to accomplish for a backyard pyrolysis project.

          So, most of us have a horizontal system of traps/condensers. Each trap would be heated to the desired cut, which will force the lighter cuts to keep moving toward the exit, and get trapped by a cooler trap.

          So, standard tapered pipe fittings are what most of use are using. I am using a system of 5/8" (16mm) brass compression fittings, because I am using 1/2" ID copper tubing as my condenser path. I use Ts at the bottom of the condenser to direct condensate to a clear plastic bottle (if it is at ambient temps or below), the other branch of the T takes the vapor stream up another condensing column to the next coolest trap. Here is a photo of one of the Ts in my condenser sections, but it happens to be 3/8" (9.5mm) at that point.
          I have been running various blends of waste oils and unleaded gasoline in a 1983 Chevy G-20 van with a 6.2L diesel V-8 engine, with a Stanadyne Rotary DB2 IP since Feb, 2007. I have started the engine with no difficulty and no block heater on an 80/20 (WVO/gas) blend down to 0F (-18c). I have found that by blending as little as 15% gasoline in the summer, and as much as 50% in the winter, my engine starts and runs as if it was running on diesel fuel.

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          • plastic waste

            thanks my friend l will try it because its alot of rain thanks for help my friend

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            • Originally posted by Beyond Biodiesel View Post
              jonathan, there are a number of ways to connect your condensers. IN an oil refinery the condenser is a tower with taps at the cut locations. There is a lip just below the top to collect the condensate and direct it to the tap. This is a bit complicated to accomplish for a backyard pyrolysis project.

              So, most of us have a horizontal system of traps/condensers. Each trap would be heated to the desired cut, which will force the lighter cuts to keep moving toward the exit, and get trapped by a cooler trap.

              So, standard tapered pipe fittings are what most of use are using. I am using a system of 5/8" (16mm) brass compression fittings, because I am using 1/2" ID copper tubing as my condenser path. I use Ts at the bottom of the condenser to direct condensate to a clear plastic bottle (if it is at ambient temps or below), the other branch of the T takes the vapor stream up another condensing column to the next coolest trap. Here is a photo of one of the Ts in my condenser sections, but it happens to be 3/8" (9.5mm) at that point.
              Beyond Biodiesel, thank you for continuing to share your work. In terms of passing on the vapors to the next cooler trap, I was wondering why, in your setup, the passage is not accomplished from the top of the red container in the photo.

              Thanks in advance

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              • http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/7040-how-turn-plastic-waste-into-diese

                sir how manten the temp. 300 degree and how to collelect the fuel in the chamber and how collect the pure fuel it is different process if u help me becoz i'm doing this project in my semester

                Comment


                • Originally posted by Marso Green View Post
                  Beyond Biodiesel, thank you for continuing to share your work. In terms of passing on the vapors to the next cooler trap, I was wondering why, in your setup, the passage is not accomplished from the top of the red container in the photo.

                  Thanks in advance
                  The fluid stream through my condensers links to the next one at either the top or the bottom based upon the location of the exit. The first condenser receives it at the bottom, the next one receives the fluid stream from the top zig-zagging its way along my condensers. See the two photos below, where two condensers are connected at the top with a U connection, but a the bottom the condenser of the bottom receives it from the hot traps, and the upper condenser passes it to the next condenser. These two condensers are just lying on the floor for assembly, but would be upright in use.


                  Originally posted by arvind View Post
                  sir how manten the temp. 300 degree
                  arvind, you should go back and read through this thread from the beginning, because it does not seem like you have understood the process. Most of us are using PID temperature controllers to control our retort using electrical heaters. Doing so makes for better control, but heating with electricity is more expensive than heating with wood, or coal, or natural gas, etc.
                  Originally posted by arvind View Post
                  and how to collelect the fuel in the chamber and how collect the pure fuel it is different process if u help me becoz i'm doing this project in my semester
                  The retort should have a vent to allow the vapors from the retort to leave the retort and travel along a series of condensers. The end of the entire system should be vented to the atmosphere, or otherwise it won't work, and is likely to explode.
                  I have been running various blends of waste oils and unleaded gasoline in a 1983 Chevy G-20 van with a 6.2L diesel V-8 engine, with a Stanadyne Rotary DB2 IP since Feb, 2007. I have started the engine with no difficulty and no block heater on an 80/20 (WVO/gas) blend down to 0F (-18c). I have found that by blending as little as 15% gasoline in the summer, and as much as 50% in the winter, my engine starts and runs as if it was running on diesel fuel.

                  Comment


                  • Beyond biodiesel, I see you are using condensers made from copper pipe and fittings. Here we use these for methanol distillation and call these type of condensers Plumbers Delights. They are very efficient and easy to make. If you lightly dent or kink the inner pipe along its length ( not so much that it will not slide thro the fittings) it increases the efficiency by a suprising amount.
                    I am using one at the moment to separate the petrol/gasoline fraction from my crude and it works very well. Im making the cut at 150 degrees C.

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                    • condensers

                      Is there a good reason why high quality aircraft oil coolers and radiators are not good candidates for the second condenser and beyond? Would there be high risk of clogging?

                      thank you

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                      • Originally posted by Audro View Post
                        Dear Jonathan , I don‘t understand ,why you want to pirolise PET. It is very complicate process ,because you must eliminate Chlor from PET. But if you have large amount of used PET ,you can sell it (in the Europe, used , not sorted PET price is about 450 EUR/t)
                        PET doesn't contain Chlorine, its PVC which has chlorine.

                        Has anyone of you experimented with ABS plastic?This is the plastic used for making cases of almost all electronic gadgets from computer casings, keyboards all the way to TV remotes.
                        I tried it out and the fuel produced was much more and it came out faster, only that its a dark fuel which separate into two distinct layers after an overnight stay.
                        The fuel is much volatile than paraffin!

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by imakebiodiesel View Post
                          Beyond biodiesel, I see you are using condensers made from copper pipe and fittings. Here we use these for methanol distillation and call these type of condensers Plumbers Delights. They are very efficient and easy to make. If you lightly dent or kink the inner pipe along its length ( not so much that it will not slide thro the fittings) it increases the efficiency by a suprising amount.
                          I am using one at the moment to separate the petrol/gasoline fraction from my crude and it works very well. Im making the cut at 150 degrees C.
                          Good suggestion, imakebiodiesel, but I pack all of my condensers with condenser packing of various kinds, which is standard procedure in an oil refinery. I think condenser packing is better than crimping the inner tube. And, crimping the inner tube would make it difficult to pass condenser packing through the tube.
                          Originally posted by Marso Green View Post
                          Is there a good reason why high quality aircraft oil coolers and radiators are not good candidates for the second condenser and beyond? Would there be high risk of clogging?

                          thank you
                          Marso Green, there is no reason why not to use a heat exchanger wherever it comes from; however, many of these heat exchangers are air to liquid exchangers, which is not as efficient as liquid-to-liquid heat exchanger, but if you want to drop the temp down from 600 to something over 75F (25c), then an air-to-liquid heat exchanger is a good idea. I could see using one as an initial trap before the liquid-liquid one.
                          I have been running various blends of waste oils and unleaded gasoline in a 1983 Chevy G-20 van with a 6.2L diesel V-8 engine, with a Stanadyne Rotary DB2 IP since Feb, 2007. I have started the engine with no difficulty and no block heater on an 80/20 (WVO/gas) blend down to 0F (-18c). I have found that by blending as little as 15% gasoline in the summer, and as much as 50% in the winter, my engine starts and runs as if it was running on diesel fuel.

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by Beyond Biodiesel View Post

                            Marso Green, there is no reason why not to use a heat exchanger wherever it comes from; however, many of these heat exchangers are air to liquid exchangers, which is not as efficient as liquid-to-liquid heat exchanger, but if you want to drop the temp down from 600 to something over 75F (25c), then an air-to-liquid heat exchanger is a good idea. I could see using one as an initial trap before the liquid-liquid one.
                            Thanks Beyond Biodiesel. I was thinking the same thing, but have been concerned, in the case of a mistake in the process or some temperature control mishap, about potentially thick condensate forming and therefore clogging these condensers. Any thought on that?

                            As for the efficiency aspect, I was thinking either a fan blowing through them or dipping them in a tank of circulating water would significantly raise their efficiency. Too crazy? I have a few high quality aircraft coolers and hoping I can use them

                            thanks again for your continuing attention to everyone's inquiries

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                            • Sayshap, The chemical formula for ABS is (C8H8)x· (C4H6)y·(C3H3N)z). The only atom there that cannot be cracked into hydrocarbons is N nitrogen. In a pyrolyser nitrogen is inert and is in fact sometimes used as a purge gas. However what may have happened is that you got partial cracking and the result was a mixture of hydrocarbon fuel and styrene monomers. The monomers should not be used as fuel as they will repolymerise under heat and pressure. If you separated them from the fuel and recracked them that might work.
                              Interesting result.

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by Jetijs View Post
                                Have a look at this picture:


                                There you can see a vertical rectangular shaped hole in the barrel, through which the coil wires come out. There are also holes in the brick at that same location, so the wires go through the holes in the bricks, and then through the big rectangular hole in the metal barrel. They have glass fiber sleeves on to insulate them electrically in case they touch the edges of the rectangular hole. The hole is then covered with a thin metal sheet bent in half circle and riveted to the barrel, the wires are pulled out on the upper side and the remaining space is stuffed with glass fiber insulation. Hope this helps
                                i have here few questions hoping someone could help me.

                                1. what is the purpose of that vertical rectangular shaped hole?
                                2. do you have any idea for the collection of the excess gas or uncondensed gas?how to collect them?
                                3. is it possible to use an electric stove as a heating element?
                                4. is it possible to place the nichrome wire vertically(meaning, the grooves on an aluminum oxide brick will be vertical)so that it will be easy to clean/replace those nichrome wires?



                                pls pls pls someone answer those questions as soon as possible..actually, i'm currently working on this kind of project..and i'm searching for some modification for this invention..thanks guys..

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