Water Sparkplug

[Kinetix]

Hi, guys.
To help solve the charge pump issue, I thougt this idea it's a little bit better than the inverter.
Inverters work at 50-60Hz (sine signal). After passing the bridge rectifier, the frecquency becomes 100-120Hz.
Now, why use (and sometimes burn... ) inverters to charge capacitors when your car allready has a better oscilator device as standard?! I was talking about the CAR'S ALTERNATOR.
It makes the electrical energy for the car. The current is AC type and has hundred of Hz at idle. As the engine's rpm rises, the frecquwncy rises also. Adding a bridge rectifier, it doubles the frecquency!
So, that is what I suggest:
alternator -> usual 7.5V/230V transformer -> bridge rectifier -> capacitor.
Yes, it's not as good as a DC-DC converter that works at much higher frecquency, but it's better than inverters. And yes, the bigger the transformer, the quicker the capacitor is charged.
Look at the schematic attached.
All the best for all.

[gmeast]

VW conversion

Hi all,

This weekend I will begin converting my '64 VW Bug to the Gotoluc/Lindemann CDI. Frequency issues are no longer a factor in my circuit. For all of you having problems with the Nexus, I suggest you consider isolation problems. The incorporation of the isolation transformer in my circuit is what created a stable configuration. Also, turn your voltages down. The effect can be brought with as little Cap charge as 75 VDC with the CDI. By the descriptions I've read and as many inverters are being fried and plugs getting welded, it sounds like you're building arc welders ... just joking ... Great efforts!

The bulk of challenge with the VW will be to create a second set of points in the distributor housing. There is room ... I just don't know if I'm skilled enough to pull it off.

Will post all steps. Peace,

Greg

[gmeast]

Just in

Hi all,

This is a quote from Over Unity by Mr. Tesla:

"Its already done"

Light Speed Engineering - Products - Ignition - CDI Features

Peace,

Greg

[broli]

Hi all,

This is a quote from Over Unity by Mr. Tesla:

"Its already done"

Light Speed Engineering - Products - Ignition - CDI Features

Peace,

Greg

The seem to contradict themselves...

Finally, the components for electronic systems are all mass produced, giving electronic ignition a distinct cost advantage over replacement parts for magnetos.

but if you look at the price page...

PLASMA II PLUS: 4cyl. Hall Effect Module* $1,315.00

Wow cost advantage indeed. The setups the guy's are playing here are probably under 100$ and that included an engine!

So more like no thanks. FE should be what it says FREE!

[Jetijs]

Jetijs

WTG!
Nice progress!

Please post your detail componets and include the number of windings on each set of wires in your trifiler coil. What type of coil did you wind your transformer on? Paper coil? ferrite core or rod? toriod?

Thank you for keeping us all posted.
DonL

Hi DonL
I used some copper coated welding rods as the coil core. I took three wires, each about 50 meters long, then I twisted them together so that they form one thicker wire (Litz wire) and then I just wound that big wire on the coil core. The coil has about 400-450 windings. All three wires are AWG 21. But there is no need to twist the wires, there is no need for copper coated welding rods - any bolt will do fine. Also the wire gauge is not that important, you can use anything from 18-25. Just the windings should be at least 400
Also you don't even need a trifilar coil, you can just as well use a bifilar coil like this:

(just replace that battery with a cap. I have not tried this by myself)

Here is a pic of my coil:



And this is my latest circuit with no booster side attached yet:



With this setup I can go with the spark discharges as high as 200Hz using 2.2uF 450V electrolytic cap. Then I attached two more caps in series to reduce the capacitance to 0.73uF and I could go as high as 350Hz. At last I replaced the electrolytic caps with two 1000V 0.88uF polypropylene pulse caps in series. Now I can go up to 550Hz with no problems. I guess that if I decreased the capacitance more, I could go even higher, but there is no need for that. Also I think that this could be about the limit that the ignition coil can handle. But the best part is that this whole circuit draws only 100mA from a 12v battery
Great stuff this Bedini self oscillator


Edit: If I decrease the spark plug air gap to about 0.5-0.7mm, I can rise the frequency up to 1.5KHz

Thanks,
Jetijs

[gmeast]

already done!

The seem to contradict themselves...



but if you look at the price page...



Wow cost advantage indeed. The setups the guy's are playing here are probably under 100$ and that included an engine!

So more like no thanks. FE should be what it says FREE!

Hi Broli,

Absolutely NO! Besides the magnitude of their spark is probably not what we need in water as fuel.

Greg

[broli]

Hi Broli,

Absolutely NO! Besides the magnitude of their spark is probably not what we need in water as fuel.

Greg

I was being sarcastic Greg . It's obvious it's way over priced compared to the setups found here.

[gmeast]

agreeing

I was being sarcastic Greg . It's obvious it's way over priced compared to the setups found here.

Hi,

I know ... I was agreeing with your statement:

"So more like no thanks. FE should be what it says FREE!"

...absolutely NO ... as in "NO THANKS"...

Peace,

Greg

[jstadwater]

Hey guys,

I just got done soldering together 120 1N5408's!!! I re-watched Mr. Bill's Nexus video and counted his diode strings. He has 4 strings of 15 diodes each string. My question, is it wired the way I think....parallel with 30 in each string OR the other way....parallel with 4 strings of 15 each? Which way would be better and which way does Mr. Bill have his, near as anyone can figure? I will be testing this circuit tomorrow on an old, points controlled lawn tractor and want to be as close to the way he did it as possible. I know he said he "over-engineered" the circuit, but I figure If I do it the same way.....and it don't work.....I can rule out it being something I changed that made it not work. I at least don't want to change up the circuit until I understand it a little better, THEN I'll try to make it more efficient. Well, fast aproaching is the end to another day in the neighborhood, later................................Mike

[lapperl]

Hey guys,

I just got done soldering together 120 1N5408's!!! I re-watched Mr. Bill's Nexus video and counted his diode strings. He has 4 strings of 15 diodes each string. My question, is it wired the way I think....parallel with 30 in each string OR the other way....parallel with 4 strings of 15 each? Which way would be better and which way does Mr. Bill have his, near as anyone can figure? I will be testing this circuit tomorrow on an old, points controlled lawn tractor and want to be as close to the way he did it as possible. I know he said he "over-engineered" the circuit, but I figure If I do it the same way.....and it don't work.....I can rule out it being something I changed that made it not work. I at least don't want to change up the circuit until I understand it a little better, THEN I'll try to make it more efficient. Well, fast aproaching is the end to another day in the neighborhood, later................................Mike

He stated that he has two strings of 60 diodes in series (60 per string) totaling 48kva at 3 amps. The two strings are ran parallel giving him 6 amps.
He stated that one string would be plenty because he was only drawing 100ma.

Good luck with your testing . I Hope to be testing mine this weekend also.

Hope it helps,
LapperL

[dllabarre]

Awesome detail.

Thank you
DonL

Hi DonL
I used some copper coated welding rods as the coil core. I took three wires, each about 50 meters long, then I twisted them together so that they form one thicker wire (Litz wire) and then I just wound that big wire on the coil core. The coil has about 400-450 windings. All three wires are AWG 21. But there is no need to twist the wires, there is no need for copper coated welding rods - any bolt will do fine. Also the wire gauge is not that important, you can use anything from 18-25. Just the windings should be at least 400
Also you don't even need a trifilar coil, you can just as well use a bifilar coil. With this setup I can go with the spark discharges as high as 200Hz using 2.2uF 450V electrolytic cap. Then I attached two more caps in series to reduce the capacitance to 0.73uF and I could go as high as 350Hz. At last I replaced the electrolytic caps with two 1000V 0.88uF polypropylene pulse caps in series. Now I can go up to 550Hz with no problems. I guess that if I decreased the capacitance more, I could go even higher, but there is no need for that. Also I think that this could be about the limit that the ignition coil can handle. But the best part is that this whole circuit draws only 100mA from a 12v battery
Great stuff this Bedini self oscillator


Edit: If I decrease the spark plug air gap to about 0.5-0.7mm, I can rise the frequency up to 1.5KHz

Thanks,
Jetijs

[mrbreau]

Two Things

First of all: since some of you guys were using relays and were having problems with them, you might consider these;
Link; Reed Relays

Secondly: Jetij's video with his variac went without explanations. Here is one possibility, though I don't know if you can get to see the post without joining the group. If you can't see the post I'll copy and paste it here.


Link; Yahoo! Groups

Warren
..

[gotoluc]

Hi all.
Today I tested my generator some more, but I can't get the RPM's constant and smooth as it is with the stock ignition and magneto setup. I suppose the 50Hz AC from the variac is to blame for this, also I can see the light bulb getting brighter and dimmer in a wave fashion. This is also a sign that the 50Hz is causing trouble, because this way the caps are not always charged up to the same voltage. And this is without a booster side. I guess I will have to make a DC to DC step up converter that works at much higher frequency to solve this problem.

Anyway, I decided to try a different test. I wanted just to attach the LV side to the stock ignition coil at stock timings and see what happens. At first it was not working, because the HV impulse form the stock ignition coil was with a negative polarity, so I switched the LV side wires around. At first I just wanted to see if it will work with the LV side connected, but not turned ON. I was very surprised when I heard an increase in the RPM just by plugging the LV side voltage quadrupler into the variac, because the variac was NOT plugged in the wall outlet. When I pulled the quadrupler leads out of the variac, the RPM's decreased. I did this several times and every time it worked the same. This is the schematic I used:


If we look at the diagram, we see that all the diodes already form the basic water spark circuit by blocking the ignition coil negative HV output to ground, so why does the effect happen only if the quadrupler is connected to the variac?

Here is a video about this:
YouTube - Stock ignition boosted/not boosted with LV side

What do you guys think?

Hi Jetijs,

I was away for a day so I just read your post and find that very interesting indeed

Looks like your variac coil was receiving some of the HV pulses and feeding it back once connected. I think this could also be happening with Bill's Nexus circuit as he was not able to understand why so little current was used from the inverter. Maybe we don't even need an inverter.

Keep studying this please as it maybe very important.

Thanks for the video and sharing.

Luc

[freepoint]

high voltage - links

hello,

these links are not "new", but, perhaps interesting;

Kronjaeger.com

http://jnaudin.free.fr/lifters/main.htm

good luck.

[Wilber]

Nexus replication

Jstadwater
Here is the schematic .my capasitor is actually 2 ,a 10 uf start cap and a 15uf start cap it will work with either but is stronger with both , the diodes i tried with one string of 7 it worked but drowned when sprayed with water very easily with 3 strings it is much harder to drown . I used a 555 chip with a rfp50n06 mosfet to pulse the coil 1 hz to 34 hz when doing bench tests .The coil does get a full 12 volts and gets warm . when i hooked it to the points on the motor it ran great for 5 minutes then the electrodes on the plug fused together and lv side shorts out now ?? This motor has external points that run off the cam (no waste spark) .I will try a micro switch instead of points so the coil will fire when the switch opens on the cams down stroke to retard the timing (for hho) and reduce the amount of time the coil gets 12 volts (less heat) . I tried using the magneto but no luck yet with it .
Will