"SALES INFO" Essential HHO "Booster" Components

[Redmeanie]

EFIE Step By Step.....

Use this set of directions. JUST use the portion starting at " Circuit Operation" through "Installing the Controller"

[Jetijs]

I did everything right as you posted above, except that the VR2 is set so that the output voltage is 1V. Will readjust it tomorrow
Thanks!

[Redmeanie]

I did everything right as you posted above, except that the VR2 is set so that the output voltage is 1V. Will readjust it tomorrow
Thanks!

Yeah if you read that manual I sent you, its real vague and states to move it back down to the 500mV range like in the last paragraph in the "adjusting on the bench" portion. That manual is all over the place! They shouldn't have even mentioned the 1V....Its just to check that the Voltage out drops all the way to zero when you cross the threshold.

But then they barely mention to return it to an actual operating range....

Also Im thinking if your vehicle naturally burns rich, this will really help you because you can actually lean out that wasted fuel and make some gains just by doing that.

[TuxAir]

We'll simplify that. I found it a bit ambiguous as well.

[ashtweth]

Guys i scanned in all the information from the package and have it in a PDF do you guys need that for your write up?

Ash

[gashouse24326]

Well, darn.

Mr. Meanie, Sir:
I encountered a slight problem with my endeavor tonight. I thought I was over the hump until this happened. The upshot is that I'll get some more much needed practice soldering. The downside is that after putting everything together, while in the process of adjusting the variable resistors, I decided to turn the switch and try to measure the output voltage to see what would happen. When I did, one of the LED's went out. Closer inspection revealed that one of the "sweeper" arms(since I don't know what they are actually called for this particular type of item)had broken off. *sigh* So, getting back to my earlier question about the specs for the rotary switches, will the one at Radio Shack work? I'm kind of eager to finish this up an try it, and since I have to go survey some land in Brunswick tomorrow, I figured that I'd stop by, pick one up, and see if I couldn't replace it tomorrow evening.

Another question...you mentioned earlier that you had the data sheets, or at least some information, on the parts that were included in the kit. I don't want you to go to all the trouble of sending me data sheets or anything, but if you wouldn't mind posting the parts numbers and store(s)? where you purchased the stuff, I'd really appreciate it.

Jerry

p.s. The 250K trimpot for the high power PWM didn't come with my stuff, but since I'm not planning on building it anytime soon, it's not a big thing. I'll just order it when I order the other stuff.

p.p.s. Not to sound like a moron, but the little pad that came with the Mosfets goes between them and the heat sink, right? I mean, I know the theory, I can do the math. You want an engine rebuilt, or a transmission, then I'm your man. I can do limited programming in Fortran, Pascal, C, and Basic, or at least I used to could(I'm working on the some of the syntax for the different forms of PIC programming, but I"m not there yet). I make really ugly welds that seem to hold heavy weights fairly well for at least a little while, and I'm realizing that I'm pretty bad at soldering, and in fact less talented than your eight year old daughter, though I am getting better, and I'd like to attribute at least some of the unkempt quality of my joints to the entirely too large tip on the soldering station that I have. I have in fact done some circuit building in the past, but only breadboard work. I'd really like to learn more, and am definitely not ashamed to ask someone to (movie quote), "Explain it to me like I'm a 4 year old." So, now that I've thrown my disclaimers out there, please help.

As always, gratefully yours,

Jerry

[Redmeanie]

Well, darn.

Mr. Meanie, Sir:
I encountered a slight problem with my endeavor tonight. I thought I was over the hump until this happened. The upshot is that I'll get some more much needed practice soldering. The downside is that after putting everything together, while in the process of adjusting the variable resistors, I decided to turn the switch and try to measure the output voltage to see what would happen. When I did, one of the LED's went out. Closer inspection revealed that one of the "sweeper" arms(since I don't know what they are actually called for this particular type of item)had broken off. *sigh* So, getting back to my earlier question about the specs for the rotary switches, will the one at Radio Shack work? I'm kind of eager to finish this up an try it, and since I have to go survey some land in Brunswick tomorrow, I figured that I'd stop by, pick one up, and see if I couldn't replace it tomorrow evening.

Another question...you mentioned earlier that you had the data sheets, or at least some information, on the parts that were included in the kit. I don't want you to go to all the trouble of sending me data sheets or anything, but if you wouldn't mind posting the parts numbers and store(s)? where you purchased the stuff, I'd really appreciate it.

Jerry

p.s. The 250K trimpot for the high power PWM didn't come with my stuff, but since I'm not planning on building it anytime soon, it's not a big thing. I'll just order it when I order the other stuff.

p.p.s. Not to sound like a moron, but the little pad that came with the Mosfets goes between them and the heat sink, right? I mean, I know the theory, I can do the math. You want an engine rebuilt, or a transmission, then I'm your man. I can do limited programming in Fortran, Pascal, C, and Basic, or at least I used to could(I'm working on the some of the syntax for the different forms of PIC programming, but I"m not there yet). I make really ugly welds that seem to hold heavy weights fairly well for at least a little while, and I'm realizing that I'm pretty bad at soldering, and in fact less talented than your eight year old daughter, though I am getting better, and I'd like to attribute at least some of the unkempt quality of my joints to the entirely too large tip on the soldering station that I have. I have in fact done some circuit building in the past, but only breadboard work. I'd really like to learn more, and am definitely not ashamed to ask someone to (movie quote), "Explain it to me like I'm a 4 year old." So, now that I've thrown my disclaimers out there, please help.

As always, gratefully yours,

Jerry

Jerry,
Sure any rotary switch will work...It just needs to be a "Non Shorting" style.

If you didn't get a trimmer for the PWM I will send you one, and if you need me to I will send you one for the EFIE too to replace the one that you broke the leg on. Just let me know if thats what you need.

On the heatsink to Mosfet connection, I chose N type Mosfets so you really don't need the insulators between them. The tab that connects the Mosfet to the Heatsink is a Ground, so use them if you want but they are not necessary.



If you need datasheets Here they are:

[Jetijs]

Hi Red
Yesterday I run my took my car to engine diagnostics and they said that everything is ok and the board computer shows no errors. So now I don't know anymore what the cause for the high fuel consumption is. It still shows 7.7L/100km, but a normal fuel consumption for such car is about 6L/100km in city mode. I have already changed all the things I can and I hoped the diagnostics would show something. I also adjusted the EFIE so that it puts 425mV on the output, but this doesn't seem to have changed anything. I still can browse through all the lean/rich scale without any noteicable difference in car performance. Here's what the diagostic report says:
Oxygen sensor1 voltage 0.110V
Oxygen sensor2 voltage 0.060V

Of course, during the checkup I disconnected the EFIE.
Do these voltages mean something to you?
Thanks.

[InTheField]

Fyi...

Just to let you know Red... I got the kit yesterday PM. I haven't had time to do more than a cursory look at it, but I gotta say... NICE JOB. The PCBs look very nice! Right off, I HAVE to recommend this to EVERYONE doing these mods on their vehicles! MUCH more professional results will happen!

Two minor questions:

1) Was there supposed to be a rotary and DPDT for both EFIEs or just one? (I only saw one rotary & DPDT switch in the packet... like I said, only a cursory look last night... if I need something that's not in there and I don't have it in stock myself, I can pick it up I'm sure...).

2) Would you recommend against hooking up an LED bar directly to the 3914 to get a "visual" on what's going on with the O2 sensor? I think it would be OK, just want your opinion. (It would only work when the EFIE was "switched in"... unless a little modification was done... not a big deal to do... sorry, just thinking... )

I've started a second job (to pay for effin' gas to/from work ) at night, so I don't know when I'll get to building this. Needs to be sometime this weekend tho!

Regardless, THANKS and

Take Care,

ITF

[gashouse24326]

VR2 Voltage

I have a general question about the voltage setting for VR2. Everything that I've seen says that it needs to be set somewhere in the neighborhood of .9 volts, except for what's been mentioned here in the last few days. It seems to me that it would need to be set relatively high. At least somewhere above the threshold that tells the computer that the mixture is rich and needs to be leaned out. I don't know if the computer changes the mixture in proportion to the difference between the voltage that it sees and the voltage that it wants to see, or if it just adds or decreases the fuel by the same amount until the the threshold is crossed again, but since it only sees zero volts and whatever we set the value controlled by VR2 at, which is controlled by the settings of whichever pin the rotary switch is turned to and is completely independent of the voltage setting of VR2, then don't we need to have it set relatively high so that the computer will see a rich condition and lean out the mixture?

For InTheField, I'm sure that Red can answer the question himself, but just to let you know, I thought the same thing when I received my kit. A closer inspection showed that there were enough legs on the both of the switched to handle both EFIE's. It took a little bit of figuring, but that's how I wired mine up. I think that I recall him mentioning something about wanting separate controls for both EFIE's or a single control for the pair of them. The way that I wired it up seems to work fine.


Jerry

[Redmeanie]

Jet,
Those voltages are WAYYYY Lean!

Everyone Please read page 14 through 16 of this document....It will clear everything up for you...

[InTheField]

For InTheField, I'm sure that Red can answer the question himself, but just to let you know, I thought the same thing when I received my kit. A closer inspection showed that there were enough legs on the both of the switched to handle both EFIE's. It took a little bit of figuring, but that's how I wired mine up. I think that I recall him mentioning something about wanting separate controls for both EFIE's or a single control for the pair of them. The way that I wired it up seems to work fine.

D'oH! Yeah, you're right... Red asked me about that too... Only needed one set of controls for the dual setup. Lack of sleep... that's my excuse! Off to the second job!

Again, Nice Kit!

[gashouse24326]

A look at the project

Ok all. I thought I'd share a few images of my EFIE project, and once again thank Red for this great setup. A little trimming to fit the boards into a Radio Shack project box, and a little soldering and planning and I have this.

[InTheField]

Sssshhhweet!

[ATechguy]

Mod Efie for wideband

HI! can you mod the Efie for more offset voltage for wideband 02?? Change 200k variable Pot. to 10k or if that is to low what can the circuit handle ??I need to off set more volt to the ecu . The WB 02 operates on 1 to 5 v. Any help???