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Bizzy's Bedini Machine aka Watson Machine

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  • shylo
    replied
    to be clear

    Hi Bizzy,
    So are you charging the 24volt cap at 2F ,to 24 volts and dumping into the battery, then switching, letting it recharge ,and then dumping into the motor as a form of pulsed drive? Obiviously the re-charge rate of the cap would be instantanious?
    By shorting the coils on your generator (at the right time would increase your out-put)
    There is a pic of my switch in the 3BGS thread,it's just the rotor out of an old treadmill motor, but I ground out groves to fill with mar-glass, to create a break.It's strange how the placement of the wires on the rotor, can make bigger spikes than others. I think there is alot of fine tuning that could be done.
    shylo

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  • Bizzy
    replied
    Transfer switch updated circuit

    Good morning
    As promised here is the latest circuit for my transfer switch. Although I am still tweeking it so this may change soon
    Let me know what you think. Constructive criticism from people like you who are much more knowledgable is very usefull.
    Thanks
    Bizzy
    Attached Files

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  • Bizzy
    replied
    Shylo's Bedini Machine

    Hi Shylo
    By the way we would enjoy seeing pictures or video of the unit you are building. It may actually help me and others as well. Good luck with it

    Bizzy

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  • Bizzy
    replied
    Originally posted by shylo View Post
    Hi Bizzy,
    No need to apologize,and thank-you for answering.
    In the Bendini link there is the diagram of the switch control ,is this the same as what you are using? I noticed in your video #2 that you said you added some form of control to your generator, to work with switching?
    Is it an electronic or mechanical switch?
    Also in the other thread there was a hand drawn schematic could you re-post it here ,I think it was your switch?
    Am fairly new to all this and I have very little electronics skills, but I think this switch is what I'm looking for to make my project work.
    Thank-you for your time.
    shylo
    Hi Shylo
    Yes the control I am working on is the switch. It is mechanical and uses magnets to switch on and off. I thought i was actually done and was ready to show it a few months ago when I had a wire fail on the unit so I had to replace that, but in so doing I also made some changes which I think actually prevents future wire fatigue (I hope).

    It is in the same place as in the Diagram of Bedini's although the only actual working diagram I saw was of a comutator on the shaft. I tried that breifly but it made so much noice my wife made me take it off (That is the reason why Mr Tesla never had a Mrs Tesla ) But yes it is the same place same principle and same function as in Bedini's diagram.

    If you look at my videos you will see the trigger disc mounted onto the shaft. At the end of the trigger disc are maget sets that trigger the switch on and off and set intervals. When the magnets pass over the magnet on the switch; the switch is in position #1 and the switch battery/capacitor is charged by the alternator and back emf
    When the magnets continue and move away from the switch it allows the switch to fall hence position #2
    At which time the switch makes contact with the lower contact and is in position#3 whereas it is powering the motor
    The cycle repeats itself twice per revolution however I am still working on adjusting that so that may change.

    The schematic i have on the previous thread is an out dated one. I will draw an updated one and post it here. I have made some exciting changes over the summer. Like I mentioned before we have been very busy with our gardens and wine making plus we are getting ready for the midevil faires in our area, but i promise to post that diagram either today or tomorrow.
    Bizzy

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  • shylo
    replied
    the switch

    Hi Bizzy,
    No need to apologize,and thank-you for answering.
    In the Bendini link there is the diagram of the switch control ,is this the same as what you are using? I noticed in your video #2 that you said you added some form of control to your generator, to work with switching?
    Is it an electronic or mechanical switch?
    Also in the other thread there was a hand drawn schematic could you re-post it here ,I think it was your switch?
    Am fairly new to all this and I have very little electronics skills, but I think this switch is what I'm looking for to make my project work.
    Thank-you for your time.
    shylo

    Leave a comment:


  • Bizzy
    replied
    Originally posted by shylo View Post
    Hi Bizzy,
    I read this thread and "electricity's watson machine" thread.
    First I would like to congradulate you on your work so far
    A few questions if you(or anybody else) have time, It was mentioned that to dump charge back to the battery that is running the system it can't be at the same time as drawing power to run the system??
    Also your switch Is of great interest ,you are collecting back emf from motor or generator or both???
    What exactly is the process that is taking place??
    Have you tried to incorporate shorting the coils of your pmg to increase output??
    I'm currently shorting the coils on my pmg ,which is driven by a auto rad-fan,but if I can collect the back emf it might be added to the overall output
    I have a mechanical switch that runs off the dead battery in the "3BGS".This is just random shorting of the coils.
    shylo
    Hi Shylo
    I apologize I didn't answer all of your questions and it is the perhaps the most important one. "what is exactly taking place?" by this I am guessing you meant what is taking place with the switch...
    It is a switch with an independant battery/capacitor and has three positions.

    1st postion is when the switch is in contact with the alternator and the switch battery/capaictor is being charged by the alternator. This is also when the back emf is being dumped into the battery/capaitor from the motor for additional charging

    2nd postion is when the switch and its battery/capacitor is not in contact with any other component

    3rd position is when the switch and its battery/capacitor is in contact with the motor and its capacitor. This is when the motor is pulsed

    Recently I have been working on reducing the amount of time the switch stays in the 2nd position without hurting its work at the other too positions. This helped me to improve amperage to the motor. I feel I have acheived the opitmum timing

    Let me know if that explains it better and answers your question.
    thanks
    Bizzy

    Leave a comment:


  • Bizzy
    replied
    Originally posted by shylo View Post
    Hi Bizzy,
    I read this thread and "electricity's watson machine" thread.
    First I would like to congradulate you on your work so far
    A few questions if you(or anybody else) have time, It was mentioned that to dump charge back to the battery that is running the system it can't be at the same time as drawing power to run the system??
    Also your switch Is of great interest ,you are collecting back emf from motor or generator or both???
    What exactly is the process that is taking place??
    Have you tried to incorporate shorting the coils of your pmg to increase output??
    I'm currently shorting the coils on my pmg ,which is driven by a auto rad-fan,but if I can collect the back emf it might be added to the overall output
    I have a mechanical switch that runs off the dead battery in the "3BGS".This is just random shorting of the coils.
    shylo
    Hi shylo
    As to your first question you really shouldn't try to power the system at the same time the battery is charged. At that point Lenz's Law takes over and the system slows down. So the idea is to alternate. When the battery is charging it is not powering the motor. When it is powering the motor the battery is not charging similar to the way described on this site

    Zero Point Energy - John Bedini Energizers 1 - MDG 2007


    As to your other question I am collecting the back emf from the motor. I have tried shorting out the coils but to no success.



    Also I think I may have come up with a solution to my question I just posted. The capacitor I mentioned I was having problems with was across the motor in parrallel. The solution I am going to try puts the capacitor in parrallel to the circuit but before the motor and not across it. I will let you know if it works

    Thats again for your encouragement and support on my project.


    I also hope to have an updated video in a few weeks as well.
    Thanks
    Bizzy

    Leave a comment:


  • shylo
    replied
    Hello

    Hi Bizzy,
    I read this thread and "electricity's watson machine" thread.
    First I would like to congradulate you on your work so far
    A few questions if you(or anybody else) have time, It was mentioned that to dump charge back to the battery that is running the system it can't be at the same time as drawing power to run the system??
    Also your switch Is of great interest ,you are collecting back emf from motor or generator or both???
    What exactly is the process that is taking place??
    Have you tried to incorporate shorting the coils of your pmg to increase output??
    I'm currently shorting the coils on my pmg ,which is driven by a auto rad-fan,but if I can collect the back emf it might be added to the overall output
    I have a mechanical switch that runs off the dead battery in the "3BGS".This is just random shorting of the coils.
    shylo

    Leave a comment:


  • Bizzy
    replied
    Progress

    Good morning Everyone
    It has been quite a long time since I have posted. No... I was not abducted by aliens nor have I moved to Switzerland yet (we'll have to wait and see what happens in November)

    We have been very busy planting our garden and making wine. And my daughter's high school graduation party is today( woo hoo my child support is cut in half )I have also been busy making a solar food dehydrator for my wife


    I also have some news to report on my Bedini Machine. This morning while doing some testing I was able to have my machine self run (with no outside power source) for almost five hours before it started loosing power slowly. It was very exciting!!
    I think the big prblem is that I have a capacitor across the motor that is acting like a snubber and eliminating the back emf from the motor, which I would normally feed into the the battery at the switch. So I now I am working to isolate that capacitor from the flyback diode and the motor. Any suggetions how to do that would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks and have a great day
    Bizzy

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  • Bizzy
    replied
    RPM drop

    Good afternoon again
    I should also mention that the alternator started out at 789 rpms and dropped to only 749 which is only a decrease of 40 rpms when the switch and test motor is engaged.
    Bizzy

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  • Bizzy
    replied
    update

    Good afternoon
    This past weekend I was able to get my test motor to 3100 rpms while my alternator ran at 749 rpms!!!. I am waiting for a new wound field motor with a higher rpm rating to arrive this weekend. After the motor is installed and I run a few tests I hope to be able to run the alternator directly from the main motor for an even longer period of time.

    I also hope to down load the alternator video (which is already made)as well as a video of the main motor running the alternator.
    Bizzy
    Last edited by Bizzy; 04-02-2012, 04:56 PM.

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  • FRC
    replied
    Bizzy

    Your goal is to be able to charge batteries and self run. No reason why a couple more batteries in the system can not be there. If it makes it more efficient than caps then definitely do things this way.

    George

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  • Bizzy
    replied
    Batteries versus Capacitors

    Good morning
    After quite a bit of testing and tweeking I took George's suggestion of the series capacitor and went one step further. I put two batteries in series at the alternator in place of the capacitors. The results were excellent.
    Because capacitors charge and discharge differently than batteries, the alternator speed was only reduced by 50 rpms when the switch was engaged. The reason is that a capaitor charges and discharges quickier than a battery so it makes the alternator work harder, which slows the alternator down as I have shown on previous videos.
    In addition I was now able to increase my test motor speed to 2900 rpms. I was able to sustain those speeds two hours until I deteced any type of volt/speed drop in the alternator.
    Just running the test motor from the battery via the switch but not charging the battery with the alternaor, I would detect a reduction in battery voltage and test motor speed after 3 minutes.
    This means if I can maintain such a high speed I will need fewer alternators to keep the batteries charges to run the main motor once I close the system.
    I have a few more tests to run before I am able to go that far.
    Bizzy

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  • Bizzy
    replied
    Tonight

    Good evening
    Tonight after dinner I was in the workshop tinkering as usual. For the past few days I have been rebuilding my stator supports so that I can stack additional alternators onto my unit.
    As I usually did after each part was fastened I did a breif test to make sure everything was running smoothly. At one point I must have moved a wire which acted as a spring at the switch. The results were astounding. I went from 2300 rpms to 2750 rpms while the alternator speed remained constant at 650 rpms.
    This wire acted as a spring which forced the switch down faster so the reaction time of the switch was quicker, thus giving me more amps at the test motor.
    This deserve further testing before I proceed.
    Bizzy

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  • Bizzy
    replied
    progress update

    Good afternoon
    I wanted to share an update on my Bedini Machine.
    This past weekend I continued my testing of using series capacitors at the alternator. It looks very promising. There are also a few more circuit adjustments I need to test before I continue forward as well.

    I also tested using batteries instead of the alternator capacitors. In this test the switch is hooked up directly to the main motor which turns the alternator rotors.
    Previously it would only run for 1 hour and 10 minutes
    With the improved circuit it ran for 4 hour 50 minutes
    When I added the 2nd alternator it ran for 13 hours 35 minutes. ( my wife hated this one because it is so loud)
    It should also be noted that adding the 2nd alternator to the shaft does not slow down the shaft. It does however require a little longer to get up to maximum speed.

    Eventually once I have my circuit worked out completely that I will be able to add as many alternators as needed to supply the alternator capacitors with the required power.

    I didn't have time to make the alternator video. I will wait until I add the next alternator to make the next video that way I can show everone what it looks like when it is apart.
    Bizzy

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