Bedini Earth Light

[everyidea]

I dont know how to polarise the crystals as they form.

Put the salts between two large magnets that are in attraction mode. This static field will polarize your salts when they are formed.

But, I believe they might loose this polarization if and when they are heated. Then use a pulse to train them back into alignment.

rw

[Slider2732]

The last two posts make me wonder if pulse train polarisation is a better method than the brutal cooking method that is sticking the cells on a 12V battery and similar. Of course, the man to know would be Mr. Bedini

I'm catching up - made a hybrid stovetop cell last night that works
Wrong ingredients, right results, a non burned version of the 2 week runner.
Pre-cooked baking soda, boric acid on top and then alum, all on a piece of aluminium foil. Melt the mix on the lowest electric stove setting for 15 minutes, add the electrodes (copper and galvanized steel) add alum again to cover the electrodes and melt that in the same way for several more minutes. Allowed to dry thoroughly, then added a shiny cardboard over the mix and sealed the cell.
The copper electrode has a red oxide layer, created by high heat on the stove previously. Got no magnesium so hence the steel again.
Initial reading of 1.018 volts. No polarisation was used.
It ran a blocking oscillator last night for 12hours and showed 0.750V an hour ago when removed. It now reads 0.841V and is still climbing back up
We have a storm due tomorrow and it'll be interesting to see if it reacts.

So, i'm a little way behind, but now have seen a cell run with no added water. Don't worry, am listening, watching and reading and must too thank Chuck and John for their work, as well as you other chaps - this stuff is great

[gnino]

behavior of my glue battery

hi i can read the resistance only if I connect the positive terminal of the tester to the negative pole of the cell and i read a negative value,the meter is in 20 mega ohm range

ingredient: salt substitute, magnesium sulfate, vynil glue,aluminium and copper electrodes

is normal?

sorry for my bad english i'm italian

ciao luca

[jehdds]

hi i can read the resistance only if I connect the positive terminal of the tester to the negative pole of the cell and i read a negative value,the meter is in 20 mega ohm range

ingredient: salt substitute, magnesium sulfate, vynil glue,aluminium and copper electrodes

is normal?

sorry for my bad english i'm italian

ciao luca

Dear Luca,
I have seen negative resistance values with my ZnO
Material with two magnesium electrodes.
Very best regards,
Jim

[Lidmotor]

Good news & Bad news

The good news is that the things that have been working are still working but the bad news is that nothing new that I have tried has worked.
Both Penny LED oscillators are running on IB's "stove top" cells and solid. The cell's voltage vary up and down but I am confident that we have a winner there. The stainless steel and magnesium cell that has the auto on/off LED light has worked out well and is stable. It goes down to about .65 volts during the night and recharges up to .95 volts during the day when the circuit turns off the LED.

What didn't work was spraying a mixture of salt substitute and water on an old Lasersaber carbon and magnesium cell. Just plain tap water had the same effect. I don't know why. What also didn't work was a stove top cell I made with just salt substitute and Alum. I don't know why that didn't work either. Not understanding chemistry and blindly trying things really hinders me on this project.

Lidmotor

[NextGen1967]

The good news is that the things that have been working are still working but the bad news is that nothing new that I have tried has worked.
Both Penny LED oscillators are running on IB's "stove top" cells and solid. The cell's voltage vary up and down but I am confident that we have a winner there. The stainless steel and magnesium cell that has the auto on/off LED light has worked out well and is stable. It goes down to about .65 volts during the night and recharges up to .95 volts during the day when the circuit turns off the LED.

What didn't work was spraying a mixture of salt substitute and water on an old Lasersaber carbon and magnesium cell. Just plain tap water had the same effect. I don't know why. What also didn't work was a stove top cell I made with just salt substitute and Alum. I don't know why that didn't work either. Not understanding chemistry and blindly trying things really hinders me on this project.

Lidmotor

Good to hear the things continue to work. Also the bad new is not to bad, as most things we learn is from failures. Maybe the magnesium ribbon is a bit oxidized... Rubbing it with a fine mesh sandpaper might help.

I just found a small piece of left over magnesium ribbon in my junk box, and tried JB's dual copper oxide idea.. I used a binder to for the oxide layers, and having a piece of about 1.5 inch square copper, with a tiny bit of magnesium stick in a mix of epsom and washing soda powder with a few drops of water and 2 tiny tiny spot drops of chlorine, I get about 1.23 volt (it did climb up to 1.5 volt) at some 20mA.

I have not oxidized the magnesium strip yet.. I want to try both JB's as well as Jim's idea to make the oxide layer on the magnesium. (do not have the materials yet... slow country where i live in).

I think might know how JB did this, due to the fact he mentioned a 'strange semiconductor' and self heating. This tells me the magnesium was attacked by some solution. Could be wrong tough.

A bit speculation, as we don't know YET much about JB's cell working principle, but as I understand JB, he uses some hydrogen bonding in his mix, which allows for an 'open' structure (many Oxygen gaps) and there is an transfer happening that comes to an end at a certain point -when the water contained in the lattices is mostly depleted-, but with incorporating water in the cell structure, the process is reversed, and it repeats again from the start.... The water probably uses a capillary effect to spread distributed into the mix (the special hole design).

By replacing the Epsom salt and washing soda, probably get a much higher amperage reading, but I do not have the right Carbonates and Hydroxide available here yet... The IGBT transistor idea seem to work tough.

John, any help on here ?

--
Ron.

[area46241]

strange stovetop results...

I finally got around to attempt the stovetop cell using a copper strip heated and dipped in borax laundry booster stuff...then i mixed up alum epsom and borax cooked it till liquid and put the mag stick on top the weird thing was it had 1.44 volts and zero amps on my meter was wondering if the copper should be left alone and not treated with the borax wash....i feel like lidmotor about my latest attempt my kitchen is a salt dissaster now however i am getting a good education in cell technology....

[everyidea]

Three things that can make an exothermic reaction with Mg:

1. HCL acid = Mg + 2 HCl → MgCl2* + H2
So, you get chlorine ions infused with the Mg.

2. Hot water vapor = Mg + hot vapor H20 → MgO + H2
So, you get Magnesium Oxide

3. (DANGER) Mg + CuO + flame → Thermite reaction

Two things that would make Mg hydrophobic:

1. Cold water = Mg + cold H20 → Mg(OH)2 + H2
So, you get Magnesium Hydroxide that repels water

2. A nano glass bead layer that repels water. This can be applied through evaporation deposition.

@Lidmotor, to help understand what MR is doing, study this image. He's doing this:

+ electrode (p-type oxide) → n-type Polycrystalline that blends to a p-type → - electrode (n-type oxide)

rw

[Slider2732]

area46241 - That mix sounds similar to mixes that i'm doing presently. I'll guarantee the cell will instantly increase to a few mA's with a touch of water added. A few mA, which will deplete over a couple of hours and leave a cell with around 1mA for weeks if sealed. Not much use in it, but better than zero if you have an efficient blocking oscillator to work with it.


Are BBQ starting ribbons the best way of obtaining Mg ? I just don't have any, nor a budget for anything with shipping. Am having great success with galvanized steel, but it's steel, galvanized.

Would like to try the IBGT transistor, but am not sure on the method.

There was a storm that went through last night, huge mess of a thing with little in the way of lightning. Not really a true indicator of possible powerful electrostastic influences. The 2 weeks running stovetop didn't flinch, hopefully it'll still be running when something stronger comes through.
So, last weeks Sun CME data becomes more interesting.
@Lidmotor - did you experience cell risings on Monday and Tuesday ?
Here's the data from those days and, with last nights storm not producing the risings of previous storms on the same cell, have to conclude I have no idea

Monday Oct 24th
12.30am 0.571V
12.30pm 0.572V
07.30pm 0.579V 14 days constant running
------------Direct CME's of 5 then 7 at 10pm --------
Tuesday
12.30am 0.583V
02.30pm 0.590V
07.30pm 0.594V
Wednesday
12.30am 0.593V
02.30pm 0.582V
07.30pm 0.577V
Thursday
12.30am 0.569V
THUNDERSTORM -
04.50am 0.568V
01.30pm 0.552V

[John_Bedini]

Heptahydrate Cells.

The good news is that the things that have been working are still working but the bad news is that nothing new that I have tried has worked.
Both Penny LED oscillators are running on IB's "stove top" cells and solid. The cell's voltage vary up and down but I am confident that we have a winner there. The stainless steel and magnesium cell that has the auto on/off LED light has worked out well and is stable. It goes down to about .65 volts during the night and recharges up to .95 volts during the day when the circuit turns off the LED.

What didn't work was spraying a mixture of salt substitute and water on an old Lasersaber carbon and magnesium cell. Just plain tap water had the same effect. I don't know why. What also didn't work was a stove top cell I made with just salt substitute and Alum. I don't know why that didn't work either. Not understanding chemistry and blindly trying things really hinders me on this project.

Lidmotor

Lidmotor,
I guess your not having any luck with the chemistry. The Carbonate Cell is constructed as I said to Ibpointlass, and yes I did build his cell to check the current. The Star Cell design take advantage of the pattern of the center electrode. You Guys need to think this one out.
Heating Copper forms Corpus copper the P device. Now leave that in the oven or flame until you get the black oxide layer over the red and leave it alone, do not scrape it. you now have two layers N and P. The chemicals must be pure no substitutes or you think you know better. Do the simple experiments first with the salt substitute and borax as Ibpointlass did.
It would be much better if you would use the Magnesium Cup as I did, it has already been pointed out how to get the oxide layer on the Magnesium so I do not want to repeat that. Take the cell that far first with what Ibpointless did without the glue as that is just a binder you need to form something like a cement crystal that will harden. Get it to this step first then we will take this a step further. And no that is not what Marcus is doing as I said before everybody would be hard pressed to make that Hydrate including Me. Even if I know the Mix I have had no success making it as something seems to be missing. However I do understand the Chemistry and can make other things do the same thing with far more power in Ma.
You just need to take your time in building it as it is not easy as it looks.
John B

[Lidmotor]

OK--I will keep trying

Lidmotor,
I guess your not having any luck with the chemistry. The Carbonate Cell is constructed as I said to Ibpointlass, and yes I did build his cell to check the current. The Star Cell design take advantage of the pattern of the center electrode. You Guys need to think this one out.
Heating Copper forms Corpus copper the P device. Now leave that in the oven or flame until you get the black oxide layer over the red and leave it alone, do not scrape it. you now have two layers N and P. The chemicals must be pure no substitutes or you think you know better. Do the simple experiments first with the salt substitute and borax as Ibpointlass did.
It would be much better if you would use the Magnesium Cup as I did, it has already been pointed out how to get the oxide layer on the Magnesium so I do not want to repeat that. Take the cell that far first with what Ibpointless did without the glue as that is just a binder you need to form something like a cement crystal that will harden. Get it to this step first then we will take this a step further. And no that is not what Marcus is doing as I said before everybody would be hard pressed to make that Hydrate including Me. Even if I know the Mix I have had no success making it as something seems to be missing. However I do understand the Chemistry and can make other things do the same thing with far more power in Ma.
You just need to take your time in building it as it is not easy as it looks.
John B

Thanks John. I'll keep trying. Maybe by just building something it will help with the understanding part that I struggle with. It has worked for me before. I call them "learning tools".

Lidmotor

[jehdds]

Lidmotor,
I guess your not having any luck with the chemistry. The Carbonate Cell is constructed as I said to Ibpointlass, and yes I did build his cell to check the current. The Star Cell design take advantage of the pattern of the center electrode. You Guys need to think this one out.
Heating Copper forms Corpus copper the P device. Now leave that in the oven or flame until you get the black oxide layer over the red and leave it alone, do not scrape it. you now have two layers N and P. The chemicals must be pure no substitutes or you think you know better. Do the simple experiments first with the salt substitute and borax as Ibpointlass did.
It would be much better if you would use the Magnesium Cup as I did, it has already been pointed out how to get the oxide layer on the Magnesium so I do not want to repeat that. Take the cell that far first with what Ibpointless did without the glue as that is just a binder you need to form something like a cement crystal that will harden. Get it to this step first then we will take this a step further. And no that is not what Marcus is doing as I said before everybody would be hard pressed to make that Hydrate including Me. Even if I know the Mix I have had no success making it as something seems to be missing. However I do understand the Chemistry and can make other things do the same thing with far more power in Ma.
You just need to take your time in building it as it is not easy as it looks.
John B

John,
Any thoughts on the ZnO type cell?
Thank you again for all your insight and guidance.
Have you noticed increase in output with smaller particle size in the constituents?
Very Best Regards,
Jim

[John_Bedini]

Heptahydrate Cell

Jim,
I would stay away from Zinc as it does not perform well in the cells, yes for a zinc carbon battery it works great with the galvanic action. Look at the hydrates magnesium something that only attacks the Magnesium once to form a oxide layer. The magnesium will be white if the attack is correct. You need the most current you can get. Chuck and I let these cells dry out before we hook them up. The reason we do this is all Galvanic action then has stopped and the Co2 does not attack the magnesium. Maybe it would be easy for you all to get a fire starter stick make the electrode like I said then play with the silicates doped with the salt substitute in a cup. Please listen to what I'm saying about this cell as it has taken a long time for me to do. What to start with Go to the store and buy drying silicate add the Salt substitute and experiment from that point, but make the electrode as I said. you want to convert the Hydrogen to Co2 with this chemical, you might even add a small bit of calcium carbonate, it's the carbonate that is going to generate the Co2.
John

[jehdds]

Jim,
I would stay away from Zinc as it does not perform well in the cells, yes for a zinc carbon battery it works great with the galvanic action. Look at the hydrates magnesium something that only attacks the Magnesium once to form a oxide layer. The magnesium will be white if the attack is correct. You need the most current you can get. Chuck and I let these cells dry out before we hook them up. The reason we do this is all Galvanic action then has stopped and the Co2 does not attack the magnesium. Maybe it would be easy for you all to get a fire starter stick make the electrode like I said then play with the silicates doped with the salt substitute in a cup. Please listen to what I'm saying about this cell as it has taken a long time for me to do. What to start with Go to the store and buy drying silicate add the Salt substitute and experiment from that point, but make the electrode as I said. you want to convert the Hydrogen to Co2 with this chemical, you might even add a small bit of calcium carbonate, it's the carbonate that is going to generate the Co2.
John

Thank you John,
I definitely have the white oxide layer and the
Magnesium is NOT being digested.
What would you expect the maximal current fro
The cell? I have found that once you really juice it and the electrolyte solidifies, the galvanic is done.
Have you seen current be less affected by desiccation than voltage?
Just wondering.
I know what I have is not a Mg/Carbon galvanic cell.
Thank you so much again,
Very best regards,
Jim

[b_rads]

Heating Copper forms Corpus copper the P device. Now leave that in the oven or flame until you get the black oxide layer over the red and leave it alone, do not scrape it. you now have two layers N and P. The chemicals must be pure no substitutes or you think you know better. John B

For those who have not tried to make the semiconductor copper or who have not experienced the best results, here is a couple of things to remember when attempting this.
First - wash the copper with soap and water. Do not scour the copper as you do not want any scratches.
Second - wash again with a lye soap and rinse with distilled water. This will remove any oils left on the copper from your fingers. From this point on, do not touch the copper again using only forceps, needle-nose pliers, to handle the copper.
Third - since I use a torch, The copper is placed on a stainless steel plate for even heat distribution. Heat only one side of the copper. Do not turn it over and heat both side.
There is a great article on this at:
The H.P. Friedrichs (AC7ZL) Homepage
As JB has said, this is not terribly easy, but these steps will help produce a successful semiconductor.
Good Luck,
Brad S