Bedini's Kromrey Converter

[Shamus]

Hi Don,

I'm still working on it, just have to get the mechanical straightened out.

You can measure RPM in an indirect way by recording the waveform coming off the coils. Basically you find the time (in seconds) for a number of wavecrests (depending on the number of magnets in your machine) and then divide 60 by this number to get RPM (RPM = 60 / n). If you want direct measurements, well, then a digital tach is probably going to be your best bet.

BTW, is that your website? Looks great!

[xpskid]

Are all the other G-Field Converter builders:

still building/rebuilding?

Hi Don,

I'm still building... I've moved closer than I was after following Pneuphysics wiring diagram... I'll post some data soon.

Life is getting in the way at the moment... kids, family, and vacation are pulling me out of the barn yet each night I hear my project calling me Still have more ideas so I'm not lacking for things to try at the moment.... everytime I watch the DVD I think of something else to try

Regards,

Timm

[dllabarre]

Hey Guys

I spoke with Rick F. a couple of days ago and asked him if John would be giving out any more details on the Kromrey Converter. He told me they weren't really working on that right now and said that it was very difficult to get to work. From what I gathered with our short talk it sounded like John actually had someone else that actually tuned the units and the geometry was very important. Even the shaft size played a big role.

If all this is so important in getting it to work then why wasn't this information about the coils given out in the DVD?

Coil Diameter
Core diameter
Coil length
Shaft diameter
Number of magnets
Size of magnets
Armature length
Armature diameter
Wire size
Number of turns

This "1/2 baked" information is what has plagued the OU community since day 1. Why is it so diffcult to get ALL the details of a device so it can be reproduced "easily".

Just my venting...

[dambit]

Hi Don,

I tend to agree with you.

I am very greatfull for this DVD series and for the most part it has been excellent. However, this particular DVD was advertised as containing everything the practical builder needs to know to construct a working device (paraphrased of course). I was expecting at least the specs for a basic version that everyone could replicate. Guess not.

Bedini doesn't owe anyone anything and I respect that, but if your reading this, please, throw us bone...

A big one...

Like a dinosaur bone.

Cheers,

Steve

[Mark]

Hi Steve

I agree with you 100% and made the same statement in post #225 on page 8

[dllabarre]

Hi Don,

BTW, is that your website? Looks great!

Yes it is. Thank you!
"IF" I ever get it working then there will be documentation so anyone could duplicate it.

[MileHigh]

Dllabarre:

> If all this is so important in getting it to work

That's an important question. Did somebody specifically say this?

I will just restate that I don't think any of this is important. There are enough images of the device, and as long as you understand the basic principle of creating a nice clear uninterrupted magnetic flux path when the coils line up with the stator iron, you should be fine. As long as there is a full iron path around the full loop with no other other materials interrupting the "magnetic circuit made of a loop of iron" then you should be fine. The tighter you can make the air gap when the coils like up with the stator the better off you will be. You can't go crazy though because you all know how hard it is to build.

Then that's it, you have done it. You have made a big mean device that is supposed to cut through tons of magnetic flux like a hot knife through butter. It sounds like quite a few of you are well on the way. With a big enough motor and using a toaster element as a load you could probably pump 1000 watts through that sucker. The higher your wattage output the higer the mechanical stresses will be on your convertor.

I wince when I think of what's implicit in the question, "If I build it right, they will come." Think of it not as a "magic" configuration that you are trying to build, just a valid configuration.

Good luck all, don't despair.

[dllabarre]

Dllabarre:

> If all this is so important in getting it to work

That's an important question. Did somebody specifically say this?

See Marks post #394 below.

This is all I have to say about this.
Now back to productive work building and testing my G-Field Converter.

[baroutologos]

I have a question for those skilled in the electro-technics.

In terms of inductunce, having a coil of say 1000 turns-single wire, equals (roughly) as having a coil of 5 strands (same wire) @ 200 turns? (wound as multifillar, no twisting, as neat as possible)

I suppose, since lacking of experimental experience, that is the same, because inductunce is related to turns squared (as Milehigh pointed). So same turns, equals same inductunce (while all other variables constant)

Regards,
Baroutologos

[MileHigh]

Baroutologos: Actually the 5-strand 200-turn configuration will be the same as a 200 turn configuration, not a 1000 turn configuration. Turns in parallel wires don't add up.

Mark: The whole story doesn't smell right. They don't have to be "working on it" to provide a file with the information. Call it heresay when you quote someone saying "even the shaft diamater is critical." I don't think anyone here can imagine a reason that a 3/4" shaft would be any different than a 1" shaft. I can only suggest using your own judgement. I have already said my piece on the configuration issue so I will shut up.

[Matthew Jones]

If your talking about a non ferrous metalic shaft it could be critical. What was the shafts origin? Is it brass, Stainless, aluminium. Was any of it recycled? How much iron does it contain? Whats is its affect on the surrounding feilds. Does it store charge?
And pay real close attention....

How close is the shaft to the magnet itself?

Size may very well matter.

Rememer your not talking about the conventional.

Some of ya'll keep forgeting that.

Just an example...Grey applied magnetic feilds to plastic!

Don't give up.
Matt

[MileHigh]

All that you really want to do is have the shaft not interfere with the top and bottom magnetic flux paths. So use a shaft of a non-magnetic low-permeabiliy material so the magnetic flux avoids going through it completely. Some designs drill a pair of horizontal holes through the shaft and pass iron bars through them. You could also have thicker iron crossbeams and drill vertical holes through them and then pass your shaft through those holes. That would make the build beefier and stronger because if you can avoid drilling through the shaft you are much better off. That way the magnetic flux paths would wrap around the center shaft instead of going through it. Do the job right and the vertical shaft that makes the spinning axis for the convertor will have no affect on the magnetic flux path. In that sense, the diameter of the shaft is not critical to the design. It is just a physical component of the chassis that is not supposed to affect the operation of the convertor.

[baroutologos]

Thanks Milehigh for the info. I will investigate it anyway, in coil generator mode (passive mode)

By the way you are right about the converter. SHaft diameter, number of poles, windings etc are all variables. According to Pareto's law, ONE variable will be the critical and all the others just for efficiency.

I have reasons to believe we are NOT being told the concept of this machine, just the vodoo magic it produces.

Regards,
Baroutologos

[xpskid]

Some Data

I thought I post a few things from last week.
Life is busy at the moment and about to head out of town until late next week, so I won't be able to work on this again for a week.

I rewired my coils similar to Pneuphysics. I had this configuration before but believe I shorted a coil out against the top plate. This time I was able to verify all the coils with my scope as I went. Again, this used ~24' or twisted, trifilar #18 on each coil, ~120 turns.

This produced
~18 vdc peak-to-valley,
~48 vdc peak-to-peak
11.1 vac indicated on my fluke
7.0 vdc indicated on my fluke
It pushed my battery from 8.1 v -> 11.2 volts in ~20 minutes
I didn't see a drop in amp draw, but it only rose ~0.1 amps
Once I had it running I started looking for the key characteristics shown in the video as evidence of proper operation so this wasn't a designed or controlled experiment.

I threw two more magnet stakes in it like the 4 pole device in the video.
The trace looked like this:
13July09_4.jpeg

Interesting....
14.5 vac indicated
11.74 vdc indicated
Amp draw went from 4.65 unloaded to 5.05 shorted.
Didn't get a feel for battery charging.....

Regards,

Timm

[Matthew Jones]

Its not hard to see a negative energy flow in different machines. But the quality of the components does matter.
Like I said if the material in anyway stores a charge, you have defeated yourself.
I haven't built one of these, but I have built a motor that produces the same stuff. It makes Batterries Cold. But in the attempts to duplicate it I have had to switch out parts several times until I found the right materials.

I also use micrometer on my magnets to size them correctly. I do paper clip test on every one to make sure they are within a certian tolerance of each other. If one magnet is bigger in an assembly then the rest the feild will alter.

These things make a difference.

Thats all I'm gonna say about it.

Matt