Bedini ssg energizer

[tachyoncatcher]

weird

I'm with Paul on that one. A reading of 1 for infinite is weird. How would you know if a 1 ohm resistor is good? Wind another coil with different wire. You can always use that original coil for a second power coil if you find there was a different problem, but as you have changed just about everything, but the coil, I'm betting the coil is your issue.
Randy

[Gpilot]

The reading on my ohms meter for the power winding is 5.5. The reading for the trigger winding is 11. When i put 1 probe from power to trigger, or vice versa, the reading is 0. The coil seems to be okay, but you are right. I have changed everything but the coil. I should wind a new one.

[tachyoncatcher]

Well Gpilot, if my ohm meter read 0 when I put a probe on a trigger winding and the other probe on a power winding, I would KNOW that it has a short. But that just my ohm meters.
Randy

[Gpilot]

What should the meter read when 1 probe is on a trigger and the other is on the power winding?

[tachyoncatcher]

I'm assuming you have your windings disconnected from your circuits when you do these checks. If not, then you are simply reading resistance in your circuits.

1. Disconnect both ends of your coil windings.
2. Put one probe on a wire of your power winding.
3. Put the other probe on a wire of your trigger winding.
4. Set meter to highest ohms setting it has. If digital, this step not needed.
5. Resistance should be greater than what your meter can read. If 0, then shorted.

Gpilot, there should be no electrical path between windings. Therefore, your meter should not be able to get an ohm reading of any kind, especially 0.
Good Luck,
Randy

[Gpilot]

Here is a link for the ohms test with my meter and coil. When i turn my meter to ohms, it shows a 1 with a decimal. When i put the meter on my power winding, the number bounces around from 18-200+. Same with the trigger winding. When i put the meter on one of each, it shows a 1, which is no reading, same as when the probes are touching nothing.

YouTube

What should i do now? If there is a video you would like me to make showing setup, or operation, let me know and i will post it. Thanks guys.

[tachyoncatcher]

Finally

I see the problem. Get rid of that spool you're using for your coil. You want your windings to be as close to the wire core as possible without touching. You have, what looks like a 3/4" soft iron core surrounded by a 1" air core, then your windings. That won't work. Get an old spool that some speaker wire or bell wire or something like that. Something with a 5/8-3/4" center that the magnet wire can wrap around and you can fill with your welding rods or coat hanger wire. No air between your iron core and the plastic core of the spool that you are winding around. Hope that is clear. That is definitely your problem.
Randy

[Gpilot]

I wound a new coil with a spool i bought from resinance charge. I am also using copper coated steel welding rods as my core. I still have no success. I dont notice any difference from changing the core, spool, mount, pot, diodes, resistors, or transistors. The batteries are brand new... It NEVER pushes the wheel. It NEVER accelerates. It still makes the sound of electricity when it is hooked up and powered. When i adjust the pot, the audible frequency changes. If i disconect the charging battery, the bulb lights. Any more thoughts?

[tachyoncatcher]

Video please of your new setup.
Randy

[wrtner]

If i disconect the charging battery, the bulb lights.

Have you ever run it with the battery to be charged disconnected?

I think that this can blow the transistor which should be protected, to
some extent, by the small neon bulb.

Try a new transistor.

[Gpilot]

Hello folks, here is a new video of the new coil, mount, and circuit. Same results.. Non functional. I have changed my transistor so many times now. I dont think any of them are bad. I think it is another problem, but you know better than me.. Ill try another transistor.

YouTube

[torpex]

Hello folks, here is a new video of the new coil, mount, and circuit. Same results.. Non functional. I have changed my transistor so many times now. I dont think any of them are bad. I think it is another problem, but you know better than me.. Ill try another transistor.

YouTube

Hi all

@Gpilot
At this point, I thought we'd try Imhotep mod fan:

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/2003-free-energy-last-step-step-must-see.html#post19462

It is a easy tool to check the circuit.
Then we can see if the fault comes from the electrical circuit or the mechanical part (wheel+magnets+coil).
Good luck

[Gpilot]

I had a small, but important breakthrough today with my machine. I bypassed the resistor from the transistor base to the pot and got the machine to accelerate and run on its own. I estimate the rpm to be between 120-180. I know i need to have the resistor on to function properly, but since it is running now, i thought you guys could help me troubleshoot since we have zeroed in on the problem. The machine seems to have the highest rpm when the pot it around 40%. When i turn it more to the right, the frequency of the sound gets higher, but it doesnt increase the rpm. What should i do to boost the rmps?

[Gpilot]

Here is a video of the ssg running for the 1st time. I had to bypass the resistor to get it to function.
YouTube

[Gpilot]

While i was trying to get my rpms up, i tried using a spent 12v battery as the seconday. It started with 1.5v. The machine would ONLY function if the pot was all the way to the left, full resistance. If i turned the pot up at all, the pot would spark and the neon would illuminate. I left the pot turned down and charged the battery for 1 hr. and it went from 1.5 to 4.5. I have switched to an identicle battery as my primary and will be charging and discharging them for a few days. Just need my rpms up.