Bedini ssg energizer

[Gpilot]

Ok, where do i begin... I have a 1k ohms pot and a 5k ohms pot. I have virtually every resistor from 100 ohms to 3k ohms. No matter what combination i use, the machine doesnt run. I took the steel mount off and i held the coil by hand. It ALWAYS pulls, never pushes. Even if i use the opposite end of the coil. The different resistors and or pot have made no difference. The is still the sound of elextricity vibrating the aluminium rim of my wheel. Could my coil be the problem? I have no idea watsoever of what i should do next. The wheel never speeds up, always slows to a stop. I am using the right transistor, right size trigger and power wires. The only way i can get the coil to repel the magnet is if i conect the coil directly to the - and + of a battery. I cant do any of the tuning tests b/c i cant get it to repel and speed up, or at least keep the wheel spinning. Do i need to start over? Do i need to rewind my coil? Currently, my bifoiler coil is wound with a few twists in the wire. I have all possible parts and materials. I am very lost and frustrated. The simple school girl is giving this man complications. I do know that this is the place to learn, from the most knoledgable people in this field. I am.not giving up, so please stay with me. I know i.can.do.it

[citfta]

One step at a time.

Hi Gpilot,

Ok lets do this one step at a time. First you need to mount the coil solidly about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch from one of the magnets. The exact space is not that important at this time. It should run anywhere in between those spacings. Next connect the coil like I said earlier to your battery and get it to kick the magnet away. Then leave the end going to the positive of the battery alone so it can be hooked back up later. Now connect the end that was going to the negative of the battery to the collector of the transistor. Leave the trigger wires disconnected for now. When you connect the coil and transistor to the battery it should not kick the magnet away. If it does then the transistor is bad. Now with a good transistor we will try and get the trigger wiring going correctly. Connect one end of the trigger wires to the emitter of the transistor. Connect the other end to the center leg of your 5k pot. With the pot sitting on your work area with the shaft sticking up you want to connect the 100 ohm resistor to the leg that is clockwise from the center leg. This way when you turn the pot clockwise you will be increasing the resistance of the pot. Now connect the other end of the 100 ohm resistor to the base of the transistor. Be sure you have the diode from the base connected in the right way with the stripe of the diode going to the base of the transistor and the other end going to the emitter.

Now turn the pot all the way counterclockwise. Now apply power and give the wheel a spin. If it does not keep going on its own then you need to swap the two wires from the trigger winding and try again. Do not change the power winding wires! Be sure you have a neon from the collector to the emitter BEFORE you give it a spin and it would be better to have your charge battery connected too. Also be sure you have the diode from the collector to the charge battery connected with the stripe end going to the positive of the charge battery.

Please follow these steps in exactly this order and let me know what happens. I will be gone for a few hours but I will check back later this evening to see what you have. I know we can get this to work because I have gotten several of them working. Do you have any kind of a meter for troubleshooting? It is possible you could have a shorted coil but I haven't seen anything you have said so far to make me think that is the problem.

Later,
Carroll

[Gpilot]

i am going to work on it now. I also want to know if i can use steel shavings as my core. I can pack them in tight like sand and superglue it solid. Will this work better than hangers

[citfta]

Hi Gpilot,

I don't think steel shavings would work very well. Steel has a tendency to retain the magnetism. We don't want the coil core to retain any magnetism after the power is off the coil. If you have some of the steel that is not shavings you can try a test to see if they will work. Put your solid piece of steel in the coil and then apply power to the coil for about a second or so. Then see if the steel will pick up a paper clip after you take it out of the core. If it will pick up a paper clip then it will NOT work as a good core material. The coat hangers wires should work ok as they are usually soft iron and not steel. You can try the same test with your coat hanger wires to see if they will work. If you can get some soft iron filings or chips then they will probably work too. I have used electric fence wire on mine and it works fine.

Carroll

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, hi gpilot, or you could just go for solid state as mine is now, set aside the wheel and now using the diode and cap into bases method, still have the emitter/base diodes in place and it works great.
With it solid state, it can be amped up more and the frequency boosted a bit and can charge large batteries at a faster rate.
If you need the circuit the way it is working well in this setup, let me know.
peace love light
tyson

[tachyoncatcher]

No Surrender

Gpilot,
Don't give up on the rotary oscillator just yet. It is important that you understand the why of this simple machine and there is no better way than to build a working model. Follow Carroll's direction and he will have you running that thing in no time. The smallest detail can trip you up. Focus will shine through the fog. Good luck with your build. i will throw my 2 cents in there if I can add to the conversation. You're in good hands with Carroll.
Randy

[totoalas]

Magnetic Pusle Motor/ Charger

Pictures by totoalas - Photobucket

Hi just want to share my build more tests to come


totoalas

[wrtner]

i am going to work on it now. I also want to know if i can use steel shavings as my core.

No. You are going round in circles.

This is where to find the answers. Try the "coil winding diagram" thread:
Bedini Monopole 3 - Beginners

[tachyoncatcher]

Short

Gpilot,
You need to follow Carroll's lead, but first make sure you have no short between windings. With a ohm meter, check the resistance of one winding. Then move one probe to the other winding, leave the other alone. If you get anything other than -0-, you have a short. Rewind the coil.
If you have no meter, try the magnet repel Carroll describes. When you get that working, take a wire off of one end of the battery and connect the other winding wire to that battery terminal. Leave the other wire connected to the battery and see if the magnet kicks. If it does, you have a short. Rewind the coil. Your hanger core is fine.
Randy

[Gpilot]

Here is a new video of some testing.

YouTube

[tachyoncatcher]

Test

Gpilot,
Did you follow the direction above to test for a short between the windings?
Randy

[Gpilot]

I did the test using my ohms meter and I get 0. So there is no short. What else?

[tachyoncatcher]

0?

Gpilot,
0 would indicate a short. Infinite ohms would be a good reading. If you are getting 0 ohms between windings then your coil is not going to work for you.
Randy

[Gpilot]

Ok, 0 wasnt an entirly accurate answer. When i turn on my ohms meter, it says 1. When i put the meter on my power coil, the number increases. When i move one probe to my trigger, it goes back to 1. I only said 0 because i figured it was zeroing at 1. If you still think there is a short, i can rewind the coil.

[wrtner]

Ok, 0 wasnt an entirly accurate answer. When i turn on my ohms meter, it says 1. When i put the meter on my power coil, the number increases. When i move one probe to my trigger, it goes back to 1. I only said 0 because i figured it was zeroing at 1. If you still think there is a short, i can rewind the coil.

I wonder if your meter is faulty. You could go out and buy a resistor
of 10 ohm, and if it is a 10% resistor, the meter should measure somewhere
in the range from 9 ohms to 11 ohms

Paul-R