3 Battery Generating System

[Sanskara316]

@UFO maybe that's why I keep burning my motors, already burned 2 motors. I also see this blue lights inside the motor when running, and keeping it that way destroys the motors, I'll try this with diodes tonight.

[Turion]

I was just getting ready to send an email to my son and checked the diodes to make sure of the number, and what I used is NOT what I posted, so I have gone back to edit my post. But those of you who are already beyond that may not have seen it, so here it is. I used 1n4004 diodes because I did not have anything but 01, 04, or 07, so I picked the one in the middle.

By tomorrow I should have a third setup running with 24 volt motors, which is a good middle ground between the small 12 volt and the big 110 volt. It will be two Razor scooter motors like Matt is using. They are 24 volt, so we'll see how it works with those motors...one as motor...one as generator.

Also. it's time to cut up a battery and start experimenting with the battery. See, I TOLD you guys I would get after it once I got that welding out of the way. I only take weekends off. The rest of the week I am after it.

Dave

[Neight]

Ok, got another update.
I am right now running the 3BGS as normal, but with the two diodes in place across bat3 per Matts suggestion. I AM using 1n4001's because I only had 001 or 007 to work with, no 004's. I am using the original 9-18V motor I got at radio shack, because it's the only one I can see inside while it's running.
This thing I spinning so much faster than it used to (and probably much much faster than it's supposed to ) and there are definetly blue sparks inside at the commutators.
batteries one and two are going up in charge, and bat3 is sitting dead still at less than 1V.
it's been running for 10 minutes maybe, and it both good batteries have gone up in voltage by .02V.
I am going to leave this run until this motor dies, or the batteries are charged higher than they started this run, then I am going to let them rest a bit and see how much higher they climb than initial voltage.
I will report back with an edit to this post once this run is done!

once this run is over, and the batteries have had an hour or so to rest, I will try a run with the motor/gen combo I have setup, and see if that will also allow the batteries to charge under load.
if I can get a generator to run a load, at the same time the batteries are charging, then to me, this is a very successful solution, and couldn't be much more simple.

I am very interested to see how your run with the 110V motor goes Turion!
if you can run that big fella with the energizer you have built, and still charge the input batteries, then this system is well on it's way to powering a home!

great stuff today, lets keep it going!

N8

[Turion]

Neight,
I posted earlier on the 110 volt motor run. It did not do as well as the small motor. I have come up with some possible solutions to the problem and will be trying them. One of the things I want to do tomorrow is run my small motor on the 2BCS instead of the 3, and see if I can do a long run without the motor getting hot. That will tell me some things. There are still a million things to try with this system. We need people testing and reporting results.

Also, I did not get an increase in the primary batteries DURING my test run with my small motor and the 1n4004 diodes. The increase in voltage came only during the resting phase. SO I will try the 1n4001's and see if THAT makes a difference. And then the1n4007's if the 01's didn't work any batter than the o4's.

Dave

[Neight]

Neight,
I posted earlier on the 110 volt motor run. It did not do as well as the small motor. I have come up with some possible solutions to the problem and will be trying them. One of the things I want to do tomorrow is run my small motor on the 2BCS instead of the 3, and see if I can do a long run without the motor getting hot. That will tell me some things. There are still a million things to try with this system. We need people testing and reporting results.

Dave

Yeah, I caught that after I posted my comment. I must have overlooked it when I was catching up reading....
still, even for losses on that large of a motor, that is not that bad.

after my last post, I let the motor run for a while, maybe another 30 minutes, and started seeing the battery voltage drop. I went to pick up the motor to look inside, and dropped it, so I took that time to stop the run and let the batteries recover. They have made a very fast and full recovery, which is still pretty cool to see
after reading your post, I am now trying the diodes with a 2BGS. just turned it on, so I will report the results later, though so far, even with the motor on, the battery voltage didn't drop at all with the load, and has gained .01V. We will see how this one turns out. On this run, I am using a smaller motor than my last test, I think this one came out of a VCR, but I can't remember for sure. That is the bad thing about using scrapped parts, these motors are not marked, and I have no idea what they are rated to run on in the first place.

I very much agree, we need a lot of people testing this setup, and I personally like seeing the variations that people come up with. it gives us a wider scope to work from, and can very quickly indicate what works and what doesn't. If we can keep sharing and working together on this, I am sure a workable solution can be found that much faster. With the overall flexibility of this system, there is no reason nearly everyone can't have this running while still working on other things. We all have batteries to use, and I am sure most even have a couple of batteries that wont hold a charge, since most of us have tried recovering those lost causes (I know I have...)
even if people don't have traditional bad batteries to use, it is very clear you can easily make a small battery out of simple parts. I was able to pull a 12V load out of a battery made from copper aluminum and some alum mixed in water, it worked just fine, and has been my bat3 for most of the tests I have done on this system.

just my opinion though, don't want to step on anyones toes...

N8


Edit: Ok, I ran this 2BGS setup with the 1n4001 diodes across the 3rd bat for over an hour and a half.
good battery initial voltage 12.08 (low, I know, but I use these batteries for many different things, and don't always have time to charge them up full)
good battery running voltage 12.09 for about 20 minutes, then dropped to 12.08 and flipped between 12.08 and 12.07V for the duration of the run
good battery resting voltage (right now) 12.11V it may still be climbing, but that is where I am at right now
I could have left this running longer, since it really hadn't eaten anything out of the input battery yet, but it was showing no signs of taking any energy, and I wanted to see if it recovered higher than it started. I have seen similar results with this motor before, but honestly it's too small to work with. I could maybe make a fan out of it for a load, or put a wheel with magnets on it and a small coil to collect energy, but nothing substantial that would actually run anything.
overall it was a really good small scale test, and if the same balance can be found in bigger motors and setups, there is no reason why this couldn't generate useful power to run real loads.
I keep collecting more motors, of all kinds of sizes. I have a wood router motor that runs on 120VAC and it will take some tinkering to get the motor out of the housing, but the router is junk, so that will be my biggest motor to test yet. I am thinking I need something larger than 7Ah batteries to run something that large, so that is my next goal, find GOOD batteries to run this with, as all my working batteries are small. I have two car batteries that are good candidates to try and fix using the alum conversion, and if I can get those running up to spec, that will be my test batteries for the larger motor.

Lots to try, not enough time to try it all!! I need to find a way to make a living at this, so I don't have to waste so much time at work.....
until that happens, I will keep testing with what I have, and keep reporting results here.

[Ufopolitics]

Related to the Diodes...

Neight,
I posted earlier on the 110 volt motor run. It did not do as well as the small motor. I have come up with some possible solutions to the problem and will be trying them. One of the things I want to do tomorrow is run my small motor on the 2BCS instead of the 3, and see if I can do a long run without the motor getting hot. That will tell me some things. There are still a million things to try with this system. We need people testing and reporting results.

Also, I did not get an increase in the primary batteries DURING my test run with my small motor and the 1n4004 diodes. The increase in voltage came only during the resting phase. SO I will try the 1n4001's and see if THAT makes a difference. And then the1n4007's if the 01's didn't work any batter than the o4's.

Dave

Hey Turion,

The Diodes I was referring to were Fast Switchers Rectifiers, NOT the 4000 family type...

NTE576 / UF5404

NTE Cross Reference

This type of Rectifiers are very fast switchers, as they also recover faster...As they can handle pretty high currents at blocking and fast forwarding them...

Could you please, post here or tell me the # post where the new schematics are of the latest testing You are doing?

With two motors and diodes.

I want to replicate this testing...

Thanks

Ufopolitics

[Turion]

The latest schematic I am using is at the bottom of my very first post. Rather than have them spread throughout the thread where they are hard to find, I am continuing to post the latest at the bottom of the first post. Post #1 is also where I laid out the directions to follow step by step to make sure you have a battery that will work with this setup, and to see some of the interesting things I wanted people to see. So there is good information there. That's why it's such a long post. The shaft of the first motor is directly coupled to the shaft of the second motor to drive it as a DC generator. The output goes through a bridge rectifier to smooth it out, and then into a light to power it.

I know you advocate a different diode placement, but that is the placement I tested.

Dave

[Turion]

minoly,
I fixed the drawing. Thanks for pointing that out. I keep doing that!. I don't know WHY my very large picture appears here as a very small one. Haven't figured that out. Battery three is reversed in the correct drawing that is posted now.

The writing says used 1n4004 diodes but that 1n4008 are slower acting and may work better.

My schedule for today
1. Trying a run on the large motor with slower diodes 1n5408 (in progress now) EDIT: Battery did NOT charge during run. Still waiting to see how much it will recover. Will post final results here as an update. Beginning voltages 12.40 and 12.30 Ending voltages after rest 12.36 and 12.26
2. Make a video of small motor running on normal current and this system to show the "blue light special"
On another note, I ran my small motor directly on 24 volts of current without battery 3 or the diodes in the picture, just for comparison, and there were sparks inside the motor that looked suspiciously like the blue sparks I saw yesterday that I THOUGHT meant radiant energy. When I ran it directly off 12 volts, those sparks disappeared. I don't think the sparks I saw today were as bright as the ones yesterday, but I am posting the video to You tube so both videos are there and you can be the judge. I'm trying to be as fair and impartial about this stuff as I can be, and if I make a mistake, I'm going to admit it. So maybe I was wrong about the radiant energy.
Running on standard current 24 volts Comparison video - YouTube
Radiant Energy? Now I'm not so positive The Infamous Blue Spark - YouTube

3. Try UFO's suggested diode placement if I can find some faster diodes....can't leave the house today because I am dog sitting. My husky had surgery for swallowing a rock, and there went all my money for experiments. Poof!
4. Run the small motor with the 2BCS This was a flop. MUCH better results using the 3BGS yesterday. Exact same setup with the same diodes, but only one battery. Beginning voltage 12.28...ending voltage 12.04, and after a 30 minute rest 12.16, so a .12 loss instead of a One volt gain with the 3 battery system.
5. Run the larger motor with larger batteries and the 5408's
6. RUn the larger motor with resistors before the 5408 diodes.
7. Run the larger motor on 96 volts instead of 24

[Mario]

Hi Dave,

the blue sparks in the direct 24V video look pretty normal to me. In the other one the sparks look very greenish, reminds me when I had a relay driven Tesla-switch, I think it was when I had a transformer as a load the sparks on the relay went completely green, I think it's the coil collapse current (flyback) that makes that color.

regards,
Mario

[Ufopolitics]

Is this right?

The latest schematic I am using is at the bottom of my very first post. Rather than have them spread throughout the thread where they are hard to find, I am continuing to post the latest at the bottom of the first post. Post #1 is also where I laid out the directions to follow step by step to make sure you have a battery that will work with this setup, and to see some of the interesting things I wanted people to see. So there is good information there. That's why it's such a long post. The shaft of the first motor is directly coupled to the shaft of the second motor to drive it as a DC generator. The output goes through a bridge rectifier to smooth it out, and then into a light to power it.

I know you advocate a different diode placement, but that is the placement I tested.

Dave

Hello Turion,

http://www.energeticforum.com/attach...chmentid=10587

According to schematic above from your first post...second diode is shorting out the old battery, is that the purpose?
I mean, reading the second diode as (-)[-l<l-](+) that is shorting out old batt.

The Diode I am saying to install is:

[MOTOR]----[-l>l-]---(+) (Positive of Old Battery)

But please, suppress the other two diodes whenever you have the time to do my proposal testing.

I am going to test this set-up...

Thanks

Regards.

Ufopolitics

[Turion]

I was going to take the other two diodes OFF when I tested your proposal. Going through my diodes now, since I can't get out of the house today, to see if I have any that are fast switching. Will be looking up their specs and seeing which one is the fastest.
NTE 116
195399 RAdio Shack
NTE 5809

[Matthew Jones]

If you have any for the Tesla Switch I always recomend Ultra Fast.

Matt

[Turion]

Oh, They are in my Tesla Switch box of parts! Forgot all about those! Thanks Matt!

[LutherG]

NTE576 Diodes

Oh, They are in my Tesla Switch box of parts! Forgot all about those! Thanks Matt!

I managed to find some NET576 diodes and a 1-ohm @ 150 watt rheostat during lunch today to play with this weekend.

@ufopolitics - I'll try your test this weekend as well.

Cheers,

Luther

[Ufopolitics]

About the Rectifier I proposed...

Hello Turion and All,

That rectifier there is not going to make any "Miracles"...so, do not expect them..
The purpose of it , is to let you see 'The Flow of Currents' that is happening between Motor terminal and Old Battery positive...
After Diode is on, the set up is supposed to continue the same as before...it may perform a bit better...but nothing out of this world.

I will try this test over the weekend and I will post results later on.

Cheers

Ufopolitics