3 Battery Generating System

[altrez]

A question for the group,

I have 4 brand new 7ah battery's that I am testing. They all show about the same voltage under load and capacity with my tester. It shows they are 66% full.

I put one on my charger at a rate of 3.6 amps and let it run for 90 minutes. The charger was still blinking saying it was not fully charged. So I took it off charge and let it rest for 2 hours. When I tested it again it showed 91% capacity.

I charged the second battery at less then one amp and the charger shut off in 10 minutes. I tested it 30 minutes later and it shows 78% capacity.

I am a bit confused as I do not understand what the correct charging rate should be and if I should leave it at the higher amp rate or just let it stop at a smaller charge?

The 3 amp charge had brought the battery up from 12.9 to 13.3 and was still going. the lower charge rate at less then an amp stops running at 13 volts.

The Analyzer is certified so I guess I do not understand what I should be looking for in a fully charged 7ah battery? Do I trust the smart charger or do I trust the tester?



-Altrez

[altrez]

Hi Altrez,

Went to use mine this morning and failed to connect Bluetooth-wise. Batteries were down to 1.3V. I replaced them and back to normal. I'd heard these meters go thru the cells rapidly. Something to watch for and keep spares on-hand.

Regards,

bi

Hello bi,

Yes I have noticed that my battery's are already at 50%!

-Altrez

[bistander]

Mooshie meter

Hi Altrez,

Went to use mine this morning and failed to connect Bluetooth-wise. Batteries were down to 1.3V. I replaced them and back to normal. I'd heard these meters go thru the cells rapidly. Something to watch for and keep spares on-hand.

Regards,

bi

[altrez]

Hello,

I got most of my equipment in yesterday. I ordered another DC load tester that has two channels. That way I can run a control load and also the load for the 3 battery test at the same time.

The two ways that I have now to log is with my USB data logger and with the mooshie meter. I am also going to take pictures as often as I can of my watt meters while the tests are running.

Here are a few staging pics for the weekend:






Lots of work to do!!!

-Altrez

[thaelin]

Looking...

It was only supposed to get you to a set speed then over to gas. As a battery, it had no guts so to speak. Then there was the cost, around 9K in the beginning. That was the batt tech for the Chev Volt too. Designed for it in fact.

I keep on researching battery systems and came across the Toyota synergy
motor-generator system.
I was intrigued and tried out an ancient Prius.
I couldn't see how the electric transmission was going to be as efficient as
a conventional gearbox.
The old Prius was smooth and went OK. but was rather steady on hills.
What was impressive was the MPG.
The battery was a weedy 6.5ah. Ni Mh, 210v. prismatic. IMG_3846.JPG

[Iamnuts]

Found this.

http://www.energeticforum.com/attach...1&d=1550099834

[Iamnuts]

Looking.

I keep on researching battery systems and came across the Toyota synergy
motor-generator system.
I was intrigued and tried out an ancient Prius.
I couldn't see how the electric transmission was going to be as efficient as
a conventional gearbox.
The old Prius was smooth and went OK. but was rather steady on hills.
What was impressive was the MPG.
The battery was a weedy 6.5ah. Ni Mh, 210v. prismatic. IMG_3846.JPG

[Iamnuts]

Significance

Screenshot_2019-02-13-08-04-26.jpg

[Iamnuts]

Development.

When I was a youngster the transfer resistor hadn't been developed into use
in consumer products.
Our wireless had to have two batteries, one high voltage and one low voltage.
For high, series dry cells were uesd of 90 - 120v.
The lowside was either large dry cells or accumulators in a glass jar. People would
probably take their accumulators to a local shop for charging.
Although I didn't see it I'll bet some of the cleverer sorts would use a couple
of low batteries to revive another one sufficiently to listen to the wartime news.
That could well be the original three battery idea.
Petrol was scarce and expensive so most tractors used distillate, this
wasn't the most easy thing to burn so a bit of a trick to get a fouled
sparkplug to fire was to wire a gap into the ht.lead with a pearl button.
I suppose the idea was to build up ahigher voltage, it did appear to have an
effect.

[altrez]

Aaron,

I don't know how to find it, but I remember a video that John did showing the 3 Battery setup with flashlight batteries and a resister between the positives. He started out talking about how he could get something more out of a single battery by using his keys to connect to the bottom of the battery a key and slap the top terminal with another key. He showed gains.

He also talked about farmers with low batteries on their tractors who would unhook one terminal and slap it with the terminal connector to make sparks that would raise the voltage to where they could start the tractor.

I heard it all from John for the first time. He talked about running a motor between the positives and charging the batteries. Also, he said that some engineers figured out that the motor as a load wasn't significant and replaced is with a light bulb. We have found that pulsed loads are significantly better, I like to run pulse chargers, pulse motors, boost converters, energizers, etc...anything that is not a constant load.

Good luck,

Bob

Hello Bob,

That video I think was from one of the Energy from the Vacuum DvD's

ENERGY FROM THE VACUUM

I am not sure witch one but I remember watching it and thinking that's pretty cool.

-Altrez

[altrez]

One of my USB data loggers came in today and seems to work pretty well. Here is a short test:




I had one of theses a few years ago and really liked it.

-Altrez

[BobFrench]

Reference...

Aaron,

I don't know how to find it, but I remember a video that John did showing the 3 Battery setup with flashlight batteries and a resister between the positives. He started out talking about how he could get something more out of a single battery by using his keys to connect to the bottom of the battery a key and slap the top terminal with another key. He showed gains.

He also talked about farmers with low batteries on their tractors who would unhook one terminal and slap it with the terminal connector to make sparks that would raise the voltage to where they could start the tractor.

I heard it all from John for the first time. He talked about running a motor between the positives and charging the batteries. Also, he said that some engineers figured out that the motor as a load wasn't significant and replaced is with a light bulb. We have found that pulsed loads are significantly better, I like to run pulse chargers, pulse motors, boost converters, energizers, etc...anything that is not a constant load.

Good luck,

Bob

[BobFrench]

Simple switching...very cool. Add a little solar.

Hello Bistander,

To tell you the truth, I didn't check anything. At the time I bought them because John was using them and they were about the cheapest. My favorite batteries are Marine deep cycle which are in between start batteries and deep cycle batteries.

To top it off all these batteries have been converted to Alum (no acid). So there's nothing to compare this to. Alum batteries tend to hold their power lower and will be running strong down to 9v (but an inverter has already turned off around 10v), so there are trade-offs. I like them because I can charge them faster and you can't hurt them. I have drained an Alum battery to dead 0, left it with an incandescent light on it (a dead short) over night, and they start recharging them selves as soon as you take the short off. Then they take a charge and work as usual. They don't have a problem with sulfation, in fact one of the best batteries we every had converted had sat on a pile of dead batteries for years and wouldn't take a charge. We converted it, charged it and it held for at least the manufacturer's Ah rating. At any rate, a friend of left some of his Alum batteries out back of his house for two years on the ground in TN where they got snow and everything. After two years, some of them were holding a medium-high charge and tested better Ahs than new. So you can leave them charged or discharged without hurting them. If your running lights or things that are not voltage sensitive, they are great...you can't hurt them.

As for your suggestion, I can't imagine an easier switching than one DPDT throw. When you go from one side to the other, you have to switch your load's low voltage positive leg to the opposite side unless it is something that is not polar sensitive. But an inverter is polar sensitive and needs the negative leg switched to the low voltage positive (Battery 3).

With full sun, my smallest solar panels (two 15W panels in series to give 24V) take the middle batteries to 29-32v for 6-8 hours. This is in series with the other Primary set (which is about the same voltage as the Battery 3 set) and the potential difference between the positives stays at about 29-30v all that time. This allows Battery 3 to be charged to a higher level than usual.

(Usually my setups would charge Battery 3 to a lower level each time I switched back and forth, so the whole system was losing energy because of battery impedance and after about 6 cycles I would need to charge them. When I was living off-grid and using golf cart batteries, I could charge them with solar, then rotated them in a 3 Battery setup, and make 6 complete cycles before the inverter runs would become too short and I would need to recharge the batteries. I could go 5-6 days between charging.)

With this setup, my batteries are all gaining every day. When I get them all up, I'm going to try running them 24/7 to see it the day's charging will keep the system going. So far, on even at a low level the potential difference is 19-22v, which runs my radiant battery chargers way better than 12v. That's what I use as a pulse load for the 3 Battery System. Refer to JB's patent US 7,990,110 B2 for a positive energy charger and Tom's "Free Energy Generation" book, p.46 "the preferred embodiment" for a negative energy charger.

Enjoy,

Bob

PS -That's Tom Bearden's book.

[altrez]

Hello,

Spent way too much money tonight on Amazon lol but I got most everything I need to do all of my tests and log them.

I am going to do the first test with the 1.2 volt D-Cell battery's and log everything. Then the 7 AH battery's and document all of that.

This is just the simple battery swap at this point. My hope is to provide several paths for others to learn about the tech. And make it as dead simple as possible.

-Altrez

[Turion]

Radio info

Aaron,
I will be happy to when I find it. It has been a while and I’m not exactly sure where I got it the first time. Someone else on the forum is the first person who brought it up and pointed it out to me, so I went looking to see what else was out there and did manage to find what he was talking about. Perhaps he will see this and chime in.