Joule Ringer!

[Zardox]

Hi Nick
So your only using half of the yolk I see so as not to have a full torroid.
That is a simple and great idea!
I am wondering if we could hook the two halves together in another way as to make a longer coil.

[Nick_Z]

I'm making a new coil from a 15 inch monitor ferrite yoke. Here is a video showing what those coils can do.
12v Super Joule Ringer 3.0 w/led, cfl, incandescent - YouTube

This is a picture of the ferrite crt yoke, and another of the current set up with the 3 inch radio rod, as well the the new yoke that I'm winding now, which is almost done. Upper part of picture shows a few of the transistors that I've tested, or blown.

[ztec2002]

joule ringer 3 vid

hi lasersaber watched your your vid of your joule ringer 3. you moved every part around expect your transformer why not ?, its looks like there wires going through the table so you cant move your core.maybe wrong just wandering, can you make a vid where you can move all the parts with one hand while its working.

cheers ztec2002













/

[Slider2732]

Ah good, thanks Nick
The thing is still going btw. Yes, it's just pouring out a few uA.
An environment change was what I was thinking...it's gone much colder here, house temp from around 75 degrees to 50 degrees and I wondered if that was the reason. Some kind of misbalance again for the chemicals and all it would be doing is balancing.
Mind you, as you know, i've not done any carbon/zinc experiments and that was one reason for wanting to reuse what's in there.

[Nick_Z]

Slider:
There really may not be anything that wierd about what happens in those old batteries. I've got a bunch of the D cell size carbon zinc cells, and they do self charge to a degree. As they are made of carbon/zinc, but, there won't be much current, just voltage. Therefore not really useable for normal 1.5 volt loads, of normal current draw, but, they can run a low draw oscillator.
What the one minute or even a one second charge or tap does is to polarize the battery, to activate it to self charge, like one of our homemade cells
Carbon/zinc batteries will also take a solar charge from garden lights well, and continue for a long time, New D cells have 10 amps of potential current in them, so they can recharge many times, and will also provide a small recharge themselves, when disconnected from the load. All batteries do this to some degree. But, it's a still fluffy charge.

[Slider2732]

I've got something very weird to report
Ya know the Vinnic battery that had the 1 minute charge. It ran til 3am yesterday morning, 35hrs.
Well, i've been in another room setting up a PC board (anything has to be quicker than this 1.6GHz P4 from 2001)...the oscillator began to flash again just before midnight tonight !!!
Measured the voltage and it's at 0.654V. It had quit this morning, reading 0.454V.
What on earth ?

So I took a short video.
YouTube user homebuiltindoorplaee can vouch for the wiring positions etc where it now sits and has done since the charge up. I sent him an 'Unlisted' video of another experiment, but tagged on the end was the Vinnic battery strolling along.
Any thoughts on what has happened ? remember it showed a weird 9.8V while charging and then seemed to recover when the charge from the SJR 3.0 was disconnected. Recover back to what exactly ? lol
Have got Coast to Coast AM on in the background, so you can tell it's from just now.
Video is 'Unlisted' as it's not really of general interest.
Vinnic battery auto recharged ! - YouTube

What I find most odd, is that I was to try charging it again, but instead decided on sorting through PC stuff. Annnd, it did it itself lol.
Btw, the drum unit isn't plugged in and the nearest electrical anything is that PC board.

[Nick_Z]

Slider: Yea, sorry don't know what I was thinking,,, the cap goes between the emitter/collector is what I meant to say. I'll give the neon a try tomorrow
But, the main thing that I wanted to mention was that my TIP 3055 ran luke warm (first time), on 14 volts, before it blew from the emf spikes, or whatever. The 3 inch rod has 400 turns on the secondary now, and it bites hard. I think that it's not good to mess with the connections or transistor when they are running. As there is a lot of hot emf from the current they output.
The bigger 2n3055 is the way to go, but Gadgetmall mentioned that he's even blown several of them also. He's got a 6 inch radio ferrite rod lighting an incandescent bulb on 1.5 volts. No cost, if you can find one of those old radios with the bigger ferrite rod in it.

Skywatcher: I got some of those bigger E-cores also, worth trying out for sure. Lynx steam has a video on youtube where he compares the output of the 2.0 Ringer version using the E-core, to a much bigger and expensive to build air core coil set up. The E- core used 1/2 the current. You have to put tape or separate the two halves a little so it won't ring. He has a lot of great videos out you guys might want to check all of them out if you've got the time, and haven't seen them.
Here's one of them:
Joule Ringer Version 2 - replication - YouTube

Now compare Lynx Steam's output from the E-core to Slayer's E-core Exciter running at 12v but using only 28 mAs, for a 2 watt led bulb. 1/10 the current draw from the Exciter circuit.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, nice work nick.
Hi slider, wonder if your dinosaur dead cell test has any connection to the 3 battery thread tests.
Decided to fart around with this ferrite e-core from a computer power supply if memory serves.
Trying 24awg., already have 3 layers of 75 turns per layer, though each turn probably has more length than the ferrite rods others are using.
Not sure how many turns to go for, maybe 6 to 8 layers for 450-600 turns.
Then can test different primary wire gauges and turns on top of that, going to start with 18 awg. for now, with at least 50 turns.
Used plastic which was laying around for end caps, had to roughen surface so super glue would hold.
Here is a couple pics.


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peace love light
tyson

[Slider2732]

Hmm.. so a '103' as marked on orange disc caps ?
I've tried variations on that, but not from Emitter to Base (if that's what 'control' is ?)
If anything, that's normally where a diode or LED for tuning would go and so was highly likely personally missed as a test area.

I've found ferrite to be key for any tower wound below 1/2" diameter. When tried on a Walgreen type, the input current went up. However, remember the wireless helicopter experiments of a while ago ? the tower used there had ferrite pieces in the top, supported by a piece of blue insulation foam underneath
Moving the ferrite slug in and out of the tower will show sweet spots.

Btw, the Vinnic 1 minute charge up battery finally ran down after 35hours. At 3am this morning it was on 0.454V, the test circuit needing 0.455V to run. I'm going to give it another charge up and see what happens.

[Nick_Z]

I'll give the neon a try. Gadgetmall also just mentioned to place a 0.01 capacitor between the emitter and control, this was for the 3.0 circuit. But I just tried it on my Exciter and did get a slightly higher output. I've got all Exciter circuits wired similar to the 3.0 circuit now, going from the secondary of the tower output to the Cfl and then back to the transistor's control. A one wire connection can also be taken anywhere throughout the house, just like you mentioned before. Since wireless is only good for or limited to a couple of feet away from the circuit.
One more thing... if a ferrite rod of any size is added to an Exciter tower or ANY open air core coil, it will also help to add more output. Even if it's only a smaller piece of ferrite added to any air core coil, it will also help to increase the output by A LOT. It does not have to be the full 8 inches of ferrite to work well. The ferrite beads that you and I have from CRT monitors or Tv may not work as well, as far as I can see. But, any old junk radio will have a real ferrite rod in it that can be used.

Slayer's replication of the Lasersaber circuit only used 28 mA to light a 2 watt bulb. So, 10 2 watt bulbs would only use at most 280mA, or less. For 20 watts worth of lights, and that bulb looked pretty bright to me...

Here is a picture of a 2 inch Exciter with a one inch ferrite rod, inside. Not lighting 100%, but still a nice bright useable light. I would say the about 30% more light by using the small ferrite rod.

[Slider2732]

Agreed. I think Magneticist said it well in the latest comment on that video. It's about group evolvement and bits from here and there moving things forward. Sometimes i'm sure the originator hadn't thought of doing some of the things seen later on.
Definitely credit where credit is due..at least in terms of not calling something their own idea. With this type of circuit it can easily happen though that what a person see's for the first time has been done before, just wasn't known. We're talking simple but effective circuits and there are sure to be parallels.
I mean, with your transistor problems, have you tried a neon across the Collector and Emitter on the 3055 ?
If you did and it worked, it would be a Bedini SSG type mod !

[Nick_Z]

If you remove the protection diode, and resistor from Slayer's replication of the Lasersaber circuit, what do you have?
I feel this all started with Dr. Stiffler and his illusive SEC devices. I could be wrong, but...
I've been burning transistor, even without feeling any heat, it may be the unprotected small and medium size transistors that I use, but the 2n3055 can also get snuffed.
What do you think?

Check the video below...

Lasersaber Type Exciter - YouTube

[Nick_Z]

I had some good results today and some bad news also.
For some unknown reason I got the 3,0 circuit with the 3 inch rod working, and working very well. I did make several changes, and I could light the big 65 watt Cfls BRIGHTLY, as well as all my other Cfls, Leds, but not the neon, or incandescents. This was on 14 volts from a wall adapter that has 500 mAs. It also worked fine with a 12 volt battery. But, the circuit liked 14 volts a little better.
I used the MJE 3055 on a heat sink, no diodes, and the 3inch radio ferrite rod with a 400 turn secondary, and 20 turn primary. NO HEAT. From the transistor, only luke warm, like babies milk.
The bummer is that I must of shorted something, and I'm back to where I started, nothing... I've tried all sort of transistors, and can't replicated what I had. I wish that I had the chance to make a video, before this happened, or I wouldn't have believed it myself.
It was working very very well, lighting big Cfls brightly, lots of light, with no heat issues. This lasted a few hours, but, I was in bliss the whole time.
It was also working as an Exciter, with wireless output to about a foot from the circuit, but it would not light anything on an additional 2 inch Exciter tower, other than the Av plugs with leds, but not the neon Av plug.
This was because the ferrite rod is in the 3.0 circuit, instead of the Exciter tower where it normally goes.


Gadgetmall has had some nice results on the Overunity site, with his 8 inch ferrite rod LS 3.0 Ringer replication. You might want to check that out
.
Lasersaber has also updated his site, so you might want to take a look.

Nick_Z

[Slider2732]

@totoalas - Haha stir fried signal transistors indeed.
That's what I find a little different about the full winding on the top, versus 2 or 3 turns, the output behaves differently. For example with the Vinnic crusty battery yesterday...on a Slayer, the output doesn't waver and and you can use what's in the air or on the end of the wiring. But, here the parameters change, seemingly to the load.
I'm still at a loss to figure out why the battery showed 9.8V and then when disconnected began to look like recovery and rose from 1.05V to 1.25V. It's still going by the way, the oscillator chugging along, Battery is saying it has 0.652V on it. The coil also sang, for the first time...wonder what that means ?
Perhaps it's simply down to using larger transistors and a higher input voltage than usual experiments.

@Wistiti - Good idea again. I don't have any more 1F Supercaps to hand, but hopefully someone will have a look at that situation.

[Wistiti]

Good test!

Good test Slider2732!
It would be nice to know the time it take to charge let say 2 supercap 5v 1f (so 10v 0.5f) vs the time this series of super cap can drive the circuits...
Thank for sharing with us!