Joule Ringer!

[kcarring]

Capacitors.. Would these be good?

I am collecting up some supplies to start experimenting on these circuits and I was given this pricing on caps. I want to use a lot of caps not only in this circuit but with bedini battery chargers + solar panels. I also have a whole bunch of thermocouples I want to experiment gathering current next to a fireplace chimeny, outside, in subzero winter temps. So i want to store, and move current around efficiently, have it ready for when an additional light goes on for example (off grid home).

Here is the caps deal:

SE-5R5-405ZV (coin style)

5.5v 4F, Max(Ω)=12 (ESR), Max(μA)=450 (30 minute leakage current)
unit price: $0.78/piece MOQ: 500pcs

Are they slow, or is it more they don't hold a current well?

Opinions on their use with Slayer Exciter, Bedini/IMHOTEP charging circuits?

Thanks for any help!

[kcarring]

Measuring Coils

For the Slayer Exciter style coil, I notcied measurements are given in "u", is this micro henries, calculated:




Thanks
Kyle

[fusionchip]

I am collecting up some supplies to start experimenting on these circuits and I was given this pricing on caps. I want to use a lot of caps not only in this circuit but with bedini battery chargers + solar panels. I also have a whole bunch of thermocouples I want to experiment gathering current next to a fireplace chimeny, outside, in subzero winter temps. So i want to store, and move current around efficiently, have it ready for when an additional light goes on for example (off grid home).

Here is the caps deal:

SE-5R5-405ZV (coin style)

5.5v 4F, Max(Ω)=12 (ESR), Max(μA)=450 (30 minute leakage current)
unit price: $0.78/piece MOQ: 500pcs

Are they slow, or is it more they don't hold a current well?

Opinions on their use with Slayer Exciter, Bedini/IMHOTEP charging circuits?

Thanks for any help!

I have a few and in my opinion they suck for long tern storage . they are more for short term memory backup in some computing electronics . get the bigger ones like 10 f to 30 f axial leads or even better Maxwell Ultra caps 650 farad 2.7 volt for long term storage . Just my 2 cents . they dont work good for lightsabers joule ringer but are good for collecting solar power and can be charged from a JT .

Albert

[xee2]

This is my third test to try to understand dragon's circuit. In this circuit I added a germanium diode to the test 2 circuit. The diode shortened the run time slightly. Therefore, it seems to me that the circuit works better with a resistor and capacitor than it does with the bifilar coil and germanium diode. But that is only one set of tests. Others may have different results.

[skaght]

I had some success with dragon's circuit. I could not get a germanium diode to work, but I was able to get it to work with a resistor. The interesting thing is that it seems to work better without the ferite core. This would lead me to conclude that it is the bifilar capacitance, not inductance, that is making the circuit work. The circuit ran for 6 minutes bright without ferite. Since I was only using 10,000 uF, that would be equivalent to about 24 minutes with 40,000 uF. Good, but not six hours so it needs more work.

As I mentioned earlier in the thread, I've been able to completely remove the bifilar coil and replace it with a capacitor and high value resistor in parallel (10 Megs) and still get the fluorescent to light for 4-5 minutes. The capacitance of the bifilar coil seems to be key. I'm still waiting for wire and hoping with a new bifilar I can get even more extended run times. I've tried numerous setups with just resistance, capacitance and diodes (to replace the bifilar) and I max out around 5 minutes of flickering light.

[dragon]

I found the bifilar coil makes a big difference in brightness and run times. The tesla flat bifilar shortened the run time to about 2.5 hours but it ran bright until it simply quit oscillating. This one was drawing .215ma The 400 turn bedini bifilar ( small one ) the light was less bright and ran just short of 6.5 hours and the draw on the cirucit was .035ma. I also tried a large bedini type trifilar using only 2 coils and the LED would flicker, couldn't get a reading on this on as it was so low - might go for days like that although not very useful in any way.

This is actually getting off course a bit from where Lasersaber started. I think the recovery rate would be higher using the HV spikes through the FL tube. As Lidmotor pointed out there was a considerable amount of radiant energy from the little HV transformers. Lasersaber's approach has a better chance to react or interact with the environment where mine is simply a reasonable way to recycle the energy it's given.

Either way it's an interesting approach to reducing input requirements. Even running only a couple hours with a useful bright light output makes it quite intriguing. Using the same set up with a 1F 5.5v cap would easily give you several hours of bright light only needing a quick recharge for several hours more.

These little JT circuits have always intrigued me and it seems they continue to mutate while maintaining thier simplicity... might be a clue in there...
________
Herbalaire 2.1 vaporizer

[skaght]

Trying to replace the trigger transformer...

I've been trying to replace the fuji camera trigger transformer to better understand the circuit's operation. I've built a trifilar with a 1 3/4" R33 ferrite rod. For the high resistance coil I used 36 gauge windings, as many as I could fit on the core. Then I put two 20 gauge coils over the high resistance winding, around 10 windings for each. I could get the circuit to run as a joule thief with the two 20 gauge windings, but I couldn't get my high resistance winding to display any fluorescent lighting behaviors like I can with the disposable camera trigger transformer. I used the schematic that's been posted earlier, which I've gotten to work with the trigger transformer. If anyone gets the circuit to work with another coil to replace the camera trigger coil, I'd love to know about it!

[whacky0]

Well here's my attempt. I don't have the 1n60 diodes. I guess they are needed to get this thing running on 1.2V like Gadget has shown. Instead I'm just using 500K parallel with 50nF. I suspect it would be brighter with a larger bifilar. The cfl is a bit brighter with the led in, also with more turns on the torroid. So far this is nothing more than a nightlight currently drawing 5mA @ 5.85V. It doesn't like more than about 6V. Maybe the mpsa06 could handle higher voltages with this setup to get more light? The back end of the cfl can be fed through a switching diode into a cap. I was trying to use this to somehow feedback to the source. The cfl looks brighter in the photo than it is.
These GE Reveal cfls work pretty well with the standard fuji mod. I use one as a night lamp that runs on 2-3V.

[xee2]

Another test on dragon's circuit. This one was to check the effect of the turns ratio on the toroid. The result seems to show that a turns ratio of 1:1 works best (equal number of turns on base and collector coils).

[fusionchip]

Well here's my attempt. I don't have the 1n60 diodes. I guess they are needed to get this thing running on 1.2V like Gadget has shown. Instead I'm just using 500K parallel with 50nF. I suspect it would be brighter with a larger bifilar. The cfl is a bit brighter with the led in, also with more turns on the torroid. So far this is nothing more than a nightlight currently drawing 5mA @ 5.85V. It doesn't like more than about 6V. Maybe the mpsa06 could handle higher voltages with this setup to get more light? The back end of the cfl can be fed through a switching diode into a cap. I was trying to use this to somehow feedback to the source. The cfl looks brighter in the photo than it is.
These GE Reveal cfls work pretty well with the standard fuji mod I use one as a night lamp that runs on 2-3V.

Actually they are not needed to get the fuji to oscillate on 1 volt but it will take more current to drive it thus short life on your battery.
I got 37 hours out of using a rechargable aa .it ran untile 0.698volts then quit.here is my mod to lasersabers circuit . I am using the transistor that was on the fugi and also the 1.0uf 50v cap is not polarized . I have another replication going eliminating the bifialar and just using the hazens coil i made a few years back . Also the bigger the tube the more power it takes . use a 9 watt and you will see what i mean . Mine is a Honeywell cool white 9 watt -60watts light .I hated to rip apart a brand new 6 dollar bulb but now i know it was worth Mine you that i am waiting for parts while i play with what i have no its still not "ringing" but it is showing it properties . notice it wont run very long at all on even a large ultracap650 farads 2.7 . but an aa or single cell it runs a long long long time .great back up light ! ANd the one with just the hazens coil replaces the bifialar and i use three more germaniums . the setup is a bit different and i am still testing that one . It is also running a very long time . here is what i call HAZEN"S coil .I have some extra energy comming off the secondary labled Bridge . this was a joult thief that a member named Hazens made and it got some serious secondary volts . The name stuck in my head because it was one pretty coil anyways just playing and keeping busy . I am home alone this weeken and the snow is starting to come and i am hacking away at this amazing find . We will get it like Lightsaber has it .
EDIT scope shot at top is where collector meets first germanium . bottom wave is on my connection from bulb past my backwards germanium back thru chain of compoinents to negitive and emmiter.This is with out bifialar and with HAZENS coil
Albert

[Lidmotor]

Getting closer but not there yet

@All
I am getting closer to a true replication but had to order the correct caps from Goldmine. I tried a small 1:1 isolation transformer (also called a line filter) today as the bifilar coil. It worked kinda sorta so I made a video of it. I am not having luck with my germanium diodes so in the video you see a red Led instead. The circuit is working but the amp draw is way too high. I am going to wind a special bifilar coil next and may even try a different transformer.

YouTube - Joule Ringer--close to a replication.ASF

Cheers,

Lidmotor

[Jbignes5]

Hey Lid...

@All
I am getting closer to a true replication but had to order the correct caps from Goldmine. I tried a small 1:1 isolation transformer (also called a line filter) today as the bifilar coil. It worked kinda sorta so I made a video of it. I am not having luck with my germanium diodes so in the video you see a red Led instead. The circuit is working but the amp draw is way too high. I am going to wind a special bifilar coil next and may even try a different transformer.

YouTube - Joule Ringer--close to a replication.ASF

Cheers,

Lidmotor

Could you post that schematic for me so I can see if I can duplicate it. That one seems to be right up my alley. The one with the 1:1 transformer....

[lightning]

Hello from lightning down in OZ, does anyone have a diagram of a basic joulethief lighting a white LED fairly good, but with a current draw less than 0.1 mA ????

[jonnydavro]

@Lasersaber.Hi.Thanks for sharing such an interesting project.
I had a go after reading through the posts here and based my experiment on the circuit diagram posted by Lattice with the addition of a 22k variable resistor.
The circuit runs for just over 4 minutes on a 16v 2200uf electrolitic cap but the resistor needs to be adjusted as the cap gets low to sqeeze every thing out of it but it is a tiny cap and i have tested this circuit on a much larger 150000uf cap which has half its oil missing and that worked for 3 hours and was still going when i switched it off so i am encouraged by this first test.
The transformer i am using is the yellow fuji one and i am using the transistor from the camera which is marked D1960.Its full title will be 2SD1960.The coil is a large twisted 27swg bifilar but i got this circuit running with a few different coils but could only get the low current draw and light with this transistor.
I found that it is quite easy to get the fuji transformer to oscilate and light neons and cfls really brightly but the current draw is high so thats why the 22k resistor was necassary but i will explore dragons resistor and cap biasing and see where that leads.
From the small amount of experimenting i have done on this,i think the combination of transistor,transformer,coil and especially the cfl have to be just right to see bright light on under 1mA but although i don't have bright light yet,it is good to see a circuit of this type running off a cap.
Here is a quick vid of the experiment.Jonny
YouTube - Jouleringer running on 2200uf electrolytic cap

@Fusionchip.Hi Albert.Great to see you experimenting again and sinking your teeth into a project involving fuji's which you know like the back of your hand.I hope it takes your mind of your illness for a bit and its great to see the old Gadget back.Jonny

[Lattice333]

@Lasersaber.Hi.Thanks for sharing such an interesting project.
I had a go after reading through the posts here and based my experiment on the circuit diagram posted by Lattice with the addition of a 22k variable resistor.

Great to see another replication and confirmation the schematic. Enjoyed your video.


@Fusionchip
Hi Albert, maybe there a healing room near where you live? Healing Rooms - International Association of Healing Rooms Does'nt cost anything.