Originally posted by Beyond Biodiesel
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Silica Gel is a Silicon Dioxide which can be made from Sodium Silicate. But it is not in itself, Sodium Silicate, nor able to be turned back into Sodium Silicate. Nor can not it be dissolved in water, or much else for that matter. It will absorb water and is extremely hydroscopic, hence its use as a moisture absorbent.
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Do you have access to any of the following.Originally posted by jonathan View Postor can i use something else then sodium silicate? thanks all
Clay
Silica Sand,( or Crushed Glass will do the same job)
Zeolite or Perlite or Pumice or Fire Ash with plenty of small pieces of Charcoal in it.
Portland Cement? This Cement has Sodium Silicate in it and several other good products that make it good for resisting high temperatures.
Mix 3 parts Portland Cement with 3 parts Perlite or Zeolite or Pumice or Fire Ash and 4 parts Silica sand (or the Crushed Glass). Mix it all together really well and then add in 4 parts Clay. Add water. Not too wet, but just wet enough to be able to shape and mold it. If you have access to Lime, you can add 1 part of Lime and that will make the mix more pliable.
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I was just doing some research on building materials, and found . It is an accessible product that might withstand the 800F (425c) retort temperature, especially if it is lined with aluminum flashing.
8 Clever Uses for Silica Gel
I have been running various blends of waste oils and unleaded gasoline in a 1983 Chevy G-20 van with a 6.2L diesel V-8 engine, with a Stanadyne Rotary DB2 IP since Feb, 2007. I have started the engine with no difficulty and no block heater on an 80/20 (WVO/gas) blend down to 0F (-18c). I have found that by blending as little as 15% gasoline in the summer, and as much as 50% in the winter, my engine starts and runs as if it was running on diesel fuel.
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I really can not say. I don't know what the White Cement is made from. Many other Cements do not withstand high temperatures. Portland Cement is different to all other Cements that I know of. If you can get Portland Cement, then it is certianly the best choice.Originally posted by jonathan View Postthanks wheels..i will try portland cement i thing i find in malta....can i use white cement? l meant normal cement that used in house walls?
The board that BBD is referring to is a Cement Fibre board. It is a light Grey colour. Yes it will withstand high heat, but being a Cement, it does not insulate that well. It will not withstand Direct flame on it's surface for long periods, as It will crack and fall apart.
Also known around the world as (although each may have a slightly different mix) Fibre Cement Board, Hardie Cement Board, Hardie Backer Board, Durock. Actually I just did a quick on line search and found it under these names in different countries.
VIROC Portugal, Cement bonded particle boards
Building Products, cement board, cement bonded particle boards, BETOPAN, BETOPANPLUS
DUROCK cement board
James Hardie Building Products, Hardie Backer, cement board
CertainTeed Fiber Cement Underlayment/BackerBoard Specification Sheet
CertainTeed Fiber Cement MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEET
Why is Cement Backer Board So Great? (And What to Use it For! By Lee Wallender, About.com
iVillage Home & Garden Network, What are por's and con's of Wonderboard vs Hardybacker
National Gypsum PERMABASE BRAND CEMENT BOARD
RMOROC cement board, cement bonded particle board - CBPB
single-family-home-remodeling.com Greenboard and Cement Board
Euroform Products Limited, Versapanel, Cement Particle BoardLast edited by wheels; 06-16-2014, 07:03 PM.
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Hair extensions and hairpieces really can help to improve the looking of people and help to change them a lot hair extensions and hairpieces if choosing the right type and right style of hair wigs for you, of course that you will look and become more and more attractive and also buy cheap hair wigs now is easy as you can just get the ideal style that you want online at online shops now. I have just buy me a short hair wigs for black women and it is perfect.Last edited by EndaRecar; 06-20-2014, 01:14 AM.
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Hi jonathan, I think you can leave the crushed glass out, if you are using Portland cement, and I would suggest a 50-50 blend, and see how it goes. If it is too weak to support itself to build an oven with, then reduce the ash content.I have been running various blends of waste oils and unleaded gasoline in a 1983 Chevy G-20 van with a 6.2L diesel V-8 engine, with a Stanadyne Rotary DB2 IP since Feb, 2007. I have started the engine with no difficulty and no block heater on an 80/20 (WVO/gas) blend down to 0F (-18c). I have found that by blending as little as 15% gasoline in the summer, and as much as 50% in the winter, my engine starts and runs as if it was running on diesel fuel.
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How about do a little test batch first. One with some crushed glass (providing it is easy to get of course) and one with out. The thing is, all Cements are weak on their own. The strength come from the materials mixed in to Cement. The Cement is just a Binder that holds all the particles together. The crushed glass is virtually a pure Silica Sand and will give the mix a lot more Supporting strength and may even aid in stopping any possible cracking.Originally posted by jonathan View Postthanks a lot beyond biodiesel i will try it like that
The idea of the Ash is that it is a good insulator and will help reduce the transmission of heat. But it is also very weak and will not aid in giving the concrete any strength. Hence a reason why I suggested some solid Coke in the Ash, just to give a bit of solid material to help bind it all. The Coke will still be rather weak, but better than just Ash on it's own.
Just an idea, I have never tried anything like this, so it may or maynot work. You could make the main structure using the mix described in the other posts and then make a mix of just Cement and Ash, mixing them into a paste like mix and then applying that as a Plaster to the inside of the Cement. That would possibly act as a good protective insulator to the main Cement structure.
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Well, kedigen, that is a very impressive piece of equipment. I hope you built, and successfully operated, some smaller reactors first. Say start with 1L, then go to 20L, then 100L, etc.
You do mention putting fire brick "into the kiln" I hope you mean that is outside of the retort, not inside. And, since you are using an oil burner to fire this beast, then I would expect that you will have a cavity surrounding your retort where the hot gasses of combustion warp around the retort, and exit at the top, with steel surrounding the cavity, with fire brick outside of that.I have been running various blends of waste oils and unleaded gasoline in a 1983 Chevy G-20 van with a 6.2L diesel V-8 engine, with a Stanadyne Rotary DB2 IP since Feb, 2007. I have started the engine with no difficulty and no block heater on an 80/20 (WVO/gas) blend down to 0F (-18c). I have found that by blending as little as 15% gasoline in the summer, and as much as 50% in the winter, my engine starts and runs as if it was running on diesel fuel.
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kedigen
Please keep the forum updated with photographs of progress. With 10 days to completion you must have a sizeable team working on construction. Thanks.
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