There are a lot of additives that diesel owners add to their fuel to lubricate it; however, I have been blending gasoline with waste oils to make diesel fuel for my diesel engine for 7 years. Therefore, you could just divert some of the heavier fraction from your pyrolysis unit into lubricating your fuel.
Also, lubricity is a function of viscosity, so you could just keep your fuel on the heavy side to gain lubricity.
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lubrication
Hi Guys
Still looking for a cheap lubrication additive, got the stabilization side hammered down.
Definitely merit in 2-stroke oil, however looking for a yellow to clear substance that will lubricate.
What is used in conventional diesel, does anyone know?
Regards
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Also Col there is no de-sulphurisation in pyrolysis, the morphology of PP and PE simply does not contain sulphur. Unlike naphtha cracking of OIL where sulfur is naturally present.Originally posted by Col View PostIs sulphur available in a form that can be added? Isn't it the de-sulphurisation process that strips diesel of its lubricity?
Col
Regards
AJ
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Perhaps this might work, however due to enviromental considerations, everyone is moving away from sulphur. I suppose I could add about 10 percent grinded tyres(high sulphur content due to vulcanization of rubber) to increase the sulphur content.Originally posted by Col View PostIs sulphur available in a form that can be added? Isn't it the de-sulphurisation process that strips diesel of its lubricity?
Col
Ideally since PP and PE gives vertually no sulphur one wants to be environmentally friendly.
Any suggestions anyone?
Regards
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While this thread is old, it is still active receiving posts nearly daily.Originally posted by mgalyean View PostI realize this thread is really old but I'm going to reply anyway.
Why is Stainless steel's main achilles heel is chlorine? Does the nickle that makes Stainless steel stainless, react to chlorine more so than other metals?Originally posted by mgalyean View PostStainless steel's main achilles heel is chlorine or chloride. So while it is great for most corrosion resistance applications, not for PVC cracking. Which isn't to say there isn't some kind of surface treatment that would allow its use without corrosion, but that is beyond my knowledge.
To answer Herb K's questions, the hydrogen chloride that is commonly liberated from cracking chlorinated hydrocarbons, like PVC, is highly hydrophilic, so it readily goes into solution with water in the bubbler.
In answer to his second question, chlorine is such a common element that there is probably no commercial value to it other than using the hydrochloric acid that will be produced. Perhaps it could be used in another part of the process of cracking and/or purifying the cracked fractions.
Nonetheless, cracking PVC results in producing other chlorinated hydrocarbons, such as TCE. TCE is a lousy solvent, and very toxic to anyone who uses it; and it is a worse fuel. So, the only people who should be recycling PVC are the unethical people who make it.
And, even worse, upstream of the condensers will be left behind substances that are known in scientific literature as "super toxins" from cracking any halogenated hydrocarbon. So, anyone who cracks any halogenated hydrocarbons is likely to be exposed to some of the most toxic substances known, such as dioxins.
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I realize this thread is really old but I'm going to reply anyway. Stainless steel's main achilles heel is chlorine or chloride. So while it is great for most corrosion resistance applications, not for PVC cracking. Which isn't to say there isn't some kind of surface treatment that would allow its use without corrosion, but that is beyond my knowledge.Originally posted by Herb K View PostWondering ---aside from the corrosion, which could be taken care of with 303 stainless steel piping and reactor, is there any way to capture the chlorine released when processing PVC? Any non-industrial use for it? Any way to safely (not necessarily EPA approved!) dispose of it?
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Thanks, ndsunil, for posting better photos. I like the flanged design of your retort, and the modular construction afforded by those flanges.
However, the condenser looks like it might be too close to your reflux, as steel pipe, even though flanged, has a fairly high coefficient of thermal conductivity that there is probably a considerable loss of energy to the reflux from the water condenser, and the water condenser is probably not as efficient as it could be due to heat gain from your reflux. So, if you think it is a problem, then adding a 1 foot (300mm) extension to your vapor pipe between your reflux and your condenser would probably make the system more efficient.
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Thanks, ndsunil, for posting your report of a successful run in your pilot plant with various plastics. I agree with jonathan, larger photos would be more useful to see how your pilot plant works.
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pyrolysis photos
thanks my friend for photos but its to small thanks
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I too, had more 2 weeks to read and copy. Already have 6 files by 50-55 pages each with pictures. To make it easier to search for a quote, which is given the answer, using the option "Find". English is not native and I will translate in Russian. All information is very interest. This materials I compare with Russian sites and I think find the best solution.Originally posted by Ron Hammar View PostWhat I have done is open a word doc and copy and paste it for taking notes.
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burner tempreture
its great idea excalibur l liked yours digital tempretures it looks nice aswell. l will try my system first if it works for me. l will buy everything. l hope your adruino project works
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burner
thanks excalibur its works well very yellow bright sometimes turns little white after time. l run it over 20 minutes the flame keep going and doesnt go up and down. my proplem was the nozzle its not perfect.lmeant it is not in the centre. l will do 3 screws 120% more perfect
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