Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

How to turn plastic waste into diesel fuel cheaply

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Controlling the temperature of the reflux

    Hi guys
    Thanks for all the help so far.
    My retort is 440mm diameter. My reflux is the same diameter, though much shorter. I am wondering if I will have sacrificed uniformity of temperature across the diameter of the reflux by going so wide. Oh well, will never know because I didn't put TC's in there, just one at the top of the exit pipe.
    Is anyone actually heating / cooling their reflux to control the temperature or just insulating it and adding / removing insulation? Do you find there is a need to baby-sit the reflux temperature or once you get the physical dimensions and distances right (ie - the 'sweet spot') is looks after itself?

    Comment


    • http://diydiesel.blogspot.co.nz/

      Comment


      • Commercial refineries vary around the world, but the one common similarity is that they all have very complex and controlled means of cracking that we don't have. It also depends on what range of oil is being refined. Not all refineries take a full crude product ad not all Crude Oils are the same.
        One of the reasons (just one of the many) that they crack in a vacuum is no oxygen present to oxidize chains till they can be cracked into what they require as a final product.
        The temperature of cracking a chain depends on two things of which both come back to temperature. A long chain requires a higher temperature to release it from the base stock. Lets just say that is 360deg. A short chain may release earlier with a much lower temperature, lets day 150deg, but being more stable, needs far more heat to vibrate it enough so it breaks by temperature alone. Lets say that breaking temp is once again 360deg.
        Very high temperatures can cause many problems. So being able to crack at lower temperatures allows a more stable product to be produced. under a vacuum, the temperature can be greatly reduced as I described earlier.
        In commercial refineries, as far as I know, every stage is employing a catalyst for controlled cracking. Plus many refineries use high pressure high temperature Steam. Steam is a great way to control the temperature of the environment.
        Boiling points of heavy chains can be very high. As much as 400+degC. WMO is very unlikely to have Chains of that weight. But you still want to have an operating temperature high enough to get rid of the very last of the heavy weight stuff from the bottom of the retort. If you don't, the carbon left behind will be spongy and oily when cold, and not dry hard carbon.
        A reflux needs to be hot enough to allow the lighter fractions to pass on through, but cool enough to allow the very long chains to condense and be recycled back to the Retort, so they can be reheated and bounce around some more and hopefully crack. A Catalyst needs a working temperature and so you would want that part after the Reflux and heated to it;s requited temp.

        Comment


        • rozier56

          Excalibur, just wondering why you connected your retort/reflux vessel's with a 3 inch pipe between them? Why not connect the reflux vessel directly to retort top?
          Also noticed that you have a long pipe leading from the reflux vessel to the condenser! What is the point of this,is it to assist cooling ?
          Your retort vessel is made of what thickness material?

          Comment


          • Originally posted by rozier56 View Post
            Excalibur, just wondering why you connected your retort/reflux vessel's with a 3 inch pipe between them? Why not connect the reflux vessel directly to retort top?
            Also noticed that you have a long pipe leading from the reflux vessel to the condenser! What is the point of this,is it to assist cooling ?
            Your retort vessel is made of what thickness material?
            I reasoned that the 3inch connecting pipe would give the best chance of creating and maintaining the two distinct vessels at their respective target temperatures. These vessels work in harmony and sympathy with each other and are finely balanced. Finding the balance that gives correct results is the trick and may require some trial and error. Directly connecting the vessels or indeed using the very same vessel with the lower part in the hot zone and the upper in a cooler zone has been the subject of earlier discussion on this forum. I see no reason why it would not work though I've not tested the theory. What's critical is the temperatures, not so much the shape, size or distance apart.
            The long pipe leading from the reflux just serves as a bit of extra initial cooling before vapor/condensate gets to the heat exchanger. The pipe was used at the exact length it was picked up from the steel rack, not so much by design.
            From memory my retort wall thickness is 8mm, retort floor is 10mm and flanges about 22mm each.
            http://diydiesel.blogspot.co.nz/

            Comment


            • rozier56

              Thks Excalibur.

              Comment


              • metal fatigue

                Another question:

                I am currently using a Diesel Burner for heating my retort. And the rate of metal fatigue is unbelievable! The Flame is not in direct contact with the retort...I have installed some 4mm mild steel plates in between the burners flame and the retort which can be easliy changed out but I'm just amazed at the rate at which the metal just degrades...

                My question is: can I expect my retort (6mm Mild steel) to suffer same fatigue from the heat? Since its not in direct contact with the burner flame? If I was using electric heater bands would this even be a concern?

                I am thinking safety here!

                Any comments and suggestions are welcome please.

                Comment


                • Originally posted by Babataku View Post
                  Another question:

                  I am currently using a Diesel Burner for heating my retort. And the rate of metal fatigue is unbelievable! The Flame is not in direct contact with the retort...I have installed some 4mm mild steel plates in between the burners flame and the retort which can be easliy changed out but I'm just amazed at the rate at which the metal just degrades...

                  My question is: can I expect my retort (6mm Mild steel) to suffer same fatigue from the heat? Since its not in direct contact with the burner flame? If I was using electric heater bands would this even be a concern?

                  I am thinking safety here!

                  Any comments and suggestions are welcome please.

                  Comment


                  • Agreed, overheating steel is going to decay it. The retort contents will try to reduce the temperature of the steel but extreme applied heat will mean the liquid won't be behaving in any kind of calm fashion. It's likely to be dancing on the hot spot/s.
                    Babataku, your 4mm steel plate shields will have nowhere to lose their heat so they will sit there and glow super hot, oxidize and eventually crumble.

                    When my steel refractory burnt out last year I moved away from direct flame on the retort vessel. Instead I heat the refractory bricks and give the flame somewhat of a 'torturous path'. I call this "softening the heat" and the firebox is now more of an oven than a blast furnace.
                    In addition I moved the burner head further away.
                    For some time I've had a TC on the flame inlet duct so the burner can be adjusted to give the required flame temperature to match retort conditions.

                    Suggestions:
                    Fit a TC on the flame so you know exactly how much heat you are dealing with.
                    Use refractory bricks as a type of heat storage and direct the flame front onto them.
                    Work out a way of controlling burner temperature, perhaps multiple or adjustable diesel jet/s.
                    http://diydiesel.blogspot.co.nz/

                    Comment


                    • cast iron

                      Thanks for the replies.

                      I was thinking of using Cast iron for the Firebox. I'm not sure though how this will affect time to heat up the retort and if this will solve steel oxidation problem. Has anyone tried this out? I don't have any local suppliers for stainless steel.

                      And also Excalibur, using refactories and creating a flame path like you did...how does this affect heating up time? Do you use more fuel to get to temperature and maintain that temp? And by the way on your runs how long does it take you to get to 400deg?

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by Babataku View Post
                        Thanks for the replies.

                        I was thinking of using Cast iron for the Firebox. I'm not sure though how this will affect time to heat up the retort and if this will solve steel oxidation problem. Has anyone tried this out? I don't have any local suppliers for stainless steel.

                        And also Excalibur, using refactories and creating a flame path like you did...how does this affect heating up time? Do you use more fuel to get to temperature and maintain that temp? And by the way on your runs how long does it take you to get to 400deg?
                        Cast iron is good. It is much slower to rust away. For SST, also consider scrap items like heat shields in old appliances. Toasters, Heaters etc. It does not have to be thick metal.
                        I have the Diesel heater blowing the hot air around the retort. I have spirals around the retort so as the hot air is swirled around and up to the exhaust outlet, so ot creates a more even heat distribution. The other jacket is insulated to retain as much heat as possible inbetween the two steel vessels.

                        Comment


                        • http://diydiesel.blogspot.co.nz/

                          Comment


                          • cast iron

                            Thanks for the replies.

                            Will search for some scrap SST and some firbricks too.

                            Comment


                            • Convert Mother's gasahol unit for pyrolysis

                              Hi All,

                              Top notch information and people in this thread. I have read through this monster of a thread over the past few years, and recently searched for any post about using Mother Earth News' gasahol distillation unit. Not finding anything posted about this, my question is: Do you think these plans can be easily modified for a plastic pyrolysis unit?
                              What parts of the plans can be used as is without modification?

                              I see in the plans, sections filled with marbles, and coiled copper tubing cooling sections. I suppose that all these sections necessary for gasahol production, would be in the way and just clogging up the works so to speak.

                              Any insights would be appreciated.
                              ken

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by kenssurplus View Post
                                Hi All,

                                Top notch information and people in this thread. I have read through this monster of a thread over the past few years, and recently searched for any post about using Mother Earth News' gasahol distillation unit. Not finding anything posted about this, my question is: Do you think these plans can be easily modified for a plastic pyrolysis unit?
                                What parts of the plans can be used as is without modification?

                                I see in the plans, sections filled with marbles, and coiled copper tubing cooling sections. I suppose that all these sections necessary for gasahol production, would be in the way and just clogging up the works so to speak.

                                Any insights would be appreciated.
                                ken
                                It's a similar method, but a very different product and thus very different parameters and processes.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X