Stingo Solid State Battery Charger

[sucahyo]

Today i ve been working a lot on big JTs, i used old coils from bedini ssg projects and hooked them on that circuit, and then i tried 4 coil JTs, efficiency result in range about 1 A is 900 mA input, 500 mA output...

Sucahyo, is that efficiency achievable with four stingos ?

Well, my last video show that with two stingo I get 540mA output with 600mA input, when one stingo is 330ma output with 420ma input. It is possible I think.

When i tried to drive my three stingos over 600 mAmps input, then i noticed that efficieny is droping off, but now that i have this accurate results from JT testing tomorrow i am going to see again how stingos work in that range, so that i can give precise information on that matter...

Have you sort out the multiple input and output yet? If not then I think it is better to compare it with single stingo.

Even with stingo, there is sweet efficiency spot. A spesific potentiometer value that produce most output from input. Different coil or different load has different sweet spot.

I spent even last 4 hours making and testing one JT version with 555 timer but i can not get good output result at all, it must be toroid, that guy LIDMOTOR showed this http://www.energeticforum.com/attach...1&d=1291092409
diagram in one of his youtube presentations but he used 2 inchs toroid and i tried with 1 inch toroid which is big difference...

You mean you don't get the efficiency he obtained? or worse than your current best?

Sucahyo, i think that now it is time to try stingo for health purposes...
Could you suggest me where to start from ? What would be the best solution for first health experiment with stingo ?

For starter, radiant sleeping aid with battery powered stingo. Use about 45V output:

http://www.energeticforum.com/health-fitness-nutrition/showthread.php?t=5995

[cikljamas]

Well, my last video show that with two stingo I get 540mA output with 600mA input, when one stingo is 330ma output with 420ma input. It is possible I think.

Hi Sucahyo !
But you charge little batteries, when i charge little batteries my
output mAmps are higher then input mAmps, there is no way
that you can achieve this efficiency charging big batteries, because
if that was possible you you would have to to tell us about it long
time ago, am i right ?

I made my measurements today charging BIG batt., here are results :
1. one stingo 900 mA input - 360 mA output
2. three stingo 900 mA input - 410 mA output
3. four coil big JT 900 mA input - 480 mA output

But, considering amount of wire that i spent winding JTs coils and
stingo coils stingo is still better that JT, because as you once said
it is not fair to compare Iowa class battleships and cost guard ships...

You mean you don't get the efficiency he obtained? or worse than your current best?

I spent a lot of time checking this garbage today, but forget it ,doesnt
worth so much effort...

For starter, radiant sleeping aid with battery powered stingo. Use about 45V output:
http://www.energeticforum.com/health...ead.php?t=5995

Ok, i will make it but this transformer must be exactly that one that
is specified or i can use our stingo little toroids ?
And what about these antenas, how it looks like, what to use for
that ?

I made tonight one another little JT, and then i used one long time ago
dead battery AAA (little one), i tested it with analog meter, i put it in
my little magalite torch and all measurements showed that battery is
quite dead, then i hooked my new JT to that battery and measured how
mAmps this circuit drains and it drains 150 mAmps, but i think it just can
not be...No way...So this measurement is just not correct...And i do not
know how to explain this...Led lits very bright, but where from it takes
those joules, it must be some joule thief behind this phenomena...

And since we talk about electronic miracles maybe you are in mood to
explain me just one important reflexion of yours :

Originally Posted by Hoppy View Post
No, unless the supply DC voltage was higher than the charging battery terminal voltage plus about 0.6V for the forward voltage drop of the charging diode at any particular point in time.

Hoppy
I see. So that is the reason to use twice source voltage for charged battery.


I think Joule thief would be more efficient if we use source positive as return path. Not 0V ground like many has use.

Rgds !

[Godfrey]

Stingo Sleeper

Ok, i will make it but this transformer must be exactly that one that is specified or i can use our stingo little toroids ?

Hi Cikljamas. The Stingo Sleeper is something I've been devoting much attention to lately. My working one, which I've been using pretty much every time I sleep, uses a transformer, which is optimized to put out 60+ volt radiant spikes. I'm also considering using a toroid coil, which I think will work just fine. It puts out 90+ volt radiant spikes when only powered by 1.5V. Any coil that you can get to oscillate at 3 volts or so will do, except, as Sucahyo has cautioned elsewhere, ignition coils, which tend to give off a masculine energy which induces headaches.

Here's two additional threads where we have been discussing the details of Stingo sleeper circuits:

Radiant as electric orgone manipulator

Health Zapper Circuits - DIY and Experimentation

And what about these antenas, how it looks like, what to use for
that ?

In my setup, I clip the the radiant positive wire to a folded length of aluminum foil, which is submerged in an open gallon jug of tap water. I place this at a distance from the sleeping area. The idea is to create a sink for the male, stimulating energy, similar to that provided by an earth ground.

The radiant negative wire clips to the metal of my bed frame...making it a type of antenna, which transmits the relaxing feminine energy. I also keep the circuit close to the bed because I think the coil flux transmits a similar type of feminine energy.

- Godfrey

[sucahyo]

Hi Sucahyo !
But you charge little batteries, when i charge little batteries my output mAmps are higher then input mAmps, there is no way that you can achieve this efficiency charging big batteries, because if that was possible you you would have to to tell us about it long time ago, am i right ?

Yes, I am aware of that. I mean I get better efficiency with two, there should be more with four.

I made my measurements today charging BIG batt., here are results :
1. one stingo 900 mA input - 360 mA output
2. three stingo 900 mA input - 410 mA output
3. four coil big JT 900 mA input - 480 mA output

What still puzzled me is how come you still have 900 mA input with three stingo. stingo is a load for source battery, I don't get how you get same consumption with three load....

Is that the maximum efficiency you can obtain? I found tuning the 500K potentiomer important. Too high value consume more without increasing output current.

But, considering amount of wire that i spent winding JTs coils and stingo coils stingo is still better that JT, because as you once said it is not fair to compare Iowa class battleships and cost guard ships...

How about trying joulethief coil for stingo?

Ok, i will make it but this transformer must be exactly that one that is specified or i can use our stingo little toroids ?
And what about these antenas, how it looks like, what to use for
that ?

You can use your current stingo. Single stingo with single diode recovery, existing coil. Connect the positive of battery to your bed, connect the diode output to ungrounded water. Then see if it do something.

I made tonight one another little JT, and then i used one long time ago dead battery AAA (little one), i tested it with analog meter, i put it in my little magalite torch and all measurements showed that battery is quite dead, then i hooked my new JT to that battery and measured how mAmps this circuit drains and it drains 150 mAmps, but i think it just can
not be...No way...So this measurement is just not correct...And i do not know how to explain this...Led lits very bright, but where from it takes those joules, it must be some joule thief behind this phenomena...

JT convert the low voltage to high voltage so it become useable to lit a LED. It allow lower source battery voltage and thus allow more use.

And since we talk about electronic miracles maybe you are in mood to explain me just one important reflexion of yours :

I think Joule thief would be more efficient if we use source positive as return path. Not 0V ground like many has use.

This is because I think if we connect the return path to 0V we will still be powering the load even if the transistor is in OFF condition. This normal flow may not have the high voltage of coil collapse current and thus seen as waste if it can not lit the LED.

[sucahyo]

cikljamas, Can you put amp meter to each stingo to measure their individual consumption?

[Godfrey]

Design of Dual Stingo w/Ingition Coils

Hi Sucahyo,

Thanks for the feedback!

For health consideration, I would prefer if we revert the connection of the car coil primary, using it upside down in your circuit.

You mean use the common instead of positive primary terminal?

- I still fail to make a working high voltage FWBR. I have high voltage diode from Ben that work ok rectifying my car coil output but will not function as FWBR. neon bulb still lit on both direction on FWBR output.

So with HV secondary output, the current still passed both ways beyond your FWBR? Now I know why my neons switch between lighting one side only or both sides as I adjust the knobs.

I’ve been considering simplifying things and using only one recovery diode per Stingo instead of an FWBR, because most of the time, my optimized tuning results in a positive DC pulse for output anyways. But I’m not sure yet how to simplify the combiner w/o more analysis.

- I think one source battery design is easier.

Yah, I realized later how goofy two source batteries looked as well as where I’ve placed the switch.

- I prefer to combine the HV output after a diode. A diode for each HV output. Combining before the diode may reduce the current going to the load since they will go the the other car coil instead.

Yes, I see what you mean, especially since there’s no synchronization between the individual Stingo pulses.

- Since the load is low impedance relate to HV output.

How can load impedance be a big factor if the output is being rectified to DC?

We may end up charging the load with only 25V or so instead of >1000V. But this should be a good way to desulfate a battery.

Why bother with HV at all then? And in this case I want a fast charger too, not just a battery rejuvenator. What config would you suggest if I dumped the HV secondary, i.e. short it to common instead?

I don't think I can make this circuit because I don't have high voltage capacitor. I made a low voltage ceramic cap explode once.... If I replicate I will be using my latest combiner with high voltage diode and cap.

What kind of caps should I acquire for this? What voltage rating?

I hope someone can test high voltage FWBR with a neon bulb.

I’ll try it when I’ve got this project going.

I’ve been looking over your earlier multiple Stingo schematics as well as the latest combiner ones. I guess it's back to the drawing board on how to put together two ignition coil Stingos for battery charging.

- Godfrey

[boguslaw]

Most old car coils I saw have a sign "B+" on primary terminal.
Does it meain it is free primary end and should be connected to battery minus to avoid headache problems ?

[NickZ]

Guys:
This may be a bit off topic here, but I have a question: I would like to connect a Jt to my 6 foot copper tube frame pyramid, which has been over my bed for the last 25 years. There is lots of oxide on the tube surfaces. Someone mentioned that copper oxide is good for the radiant charge to travel on the outside of the wire or tubes.
I also do have a water well in my back yard, where I could connect a ground wire to running underground water source.
Any Ideas are welcome...
NZ

[Farmhand]

This may be a bit off topic here, but I have a question: I would like to connect a Jt to my 6 foot copper tube frame pyramid, which has been over my bed for the last 25 years. There is lots of oxide on the tube surfaces. Someone mentioned that copper oxide is good for the radiant charge to travel on the outside of the wire or tubes.
I also do have a water well in my back yard, where I could connect a ground wire to running underground water source.
Any Ideas are welcome...

How well does your pyramid work ? How will you connect it ?

I would give it a go, but be carefull, it's a weird world we live in anything could happen. I always videotape anything that could have unexpected results for two reasons,
1. if something goes wrongs others will know what happened,

2. if something really interesting happens the video could go viral.

Anyway I would try connecting the output to a coil made to fit over the apex of the pyramid like a coil of large rings of normal magnet wire, or make the pyramid part of the circuit maybe. Lot's of things you could try, sounds like fun, and very interesting keep us posted if you try it.

Cheers

[cikljamas]

What still puzzled me is how come you still have 900 mA input with three stingo. stingo is a load for source battery, I don't get how you get same consumption with three load....

I deliberately adjust them to 900 mA, to be able to compare them
(JT,one stingo, and three stingo) .

Is that the maximum efficiency you can obtain? I found tuning the 500K potentiomer important. Too high value consume more without increasing output current.

No, it is not the maximum, of course..., Tuning the 500 K pot. could be
the last unresolved issue...I could try this too one of this days since i
removed them and put instead of them resistors (100 K), i told you
that earlier, maybe you forgot it, but it is ok, i forget too a lot of things...

How about trying joulethief coil for stingo?

It wont work well, we discussed this too earlier, but to be sure i tried this
again today, and as i said, efficiency is not so good as with little toroids...

You can use your current stingo. Single stingo with single diode recovery, existing coil. Connect the positive of battery to your bed, connect the diode output to ungrounded water. Then see if it do something.
.

Thanks !

And one question at the end of this post :
What do you think about switching collector and emitter of PNP ?
Could it allow stingo more efficiency ?

Rgds !

[cikljamas]

Hi Cikljamas. The Stingo Sleeper is something I've been devoting much attention to lately. My working one, which I've been using pretty much every time I sleep, uses a transformer, which is optimized to put out 60+ volt radiant spikes. I'm also considering using a toroid coil, which I think will work just fine. It puts out 90+ volt radiant spikes when only powered by 1.5V. Any coil that you can get to oscillate at 3 volts or so will do, except, as Sucahyo has cautioned elsewhere, ignition coils, which tend to give off a masculine energy which induces headaches.

Here's two additional threads where we have been discussing the details of Stingo sleeper circuits:

Radiant as electric orgone manipulator

Health Zapper Circuits - DIY and Experimentation



In my setup, I clip the the radiant positive wire to a folded length of aluminum foil, which is submerged in an open gallon jug of tap water. I place this at a distance from the sleeping area. The idea is to create a sink for the male, stimulating energy, similar to that provided by an earth ground.

The radiant negative wire clips to the metal of my bed frame...making it a type of antenna, which transmits the relaxing feminine energy. I also keep the circuit close to the bed because I think the coil flux transmits a similar type of feminine energy.

- Godfrey

Godfrey, thanks for your care and help !

transformer, which is optimized to put out 60+ volt radiant spikes.

Could you explain this a little bit more ?

[cikljamas]

cikljamas, Can you put amp meter to each stingo to measure their individual consumption?

I measured their consumptions one by one few days ago when i disassembled
them, but if you still think that i should do this i could try that too !

[sucahyo]

You mean use the common instead of positive primary terminal?

Most old car coils I saw have a sign "B+" on primary terminal.
Does it meain it is free primary end and should be connected to battery minus to avoid headache problems ?

Godfrey and boguslaw, there is two type of car coil common. One is labelled positive and other is labelled negative. On my mallory promaster the common leg is labelled negative.

For my case, I connect the one with plus sign to the transistor / battery minus. minus sign to battery plus.

So with HV secondary output, the current still passed both ways beyond your FWBR?

Yes.

Now I know why my neons switch between lighting one side only or both sides as I adjust the knobs.

I would be interested to know if anyone obtain the same thing with different circuit. Because I recently in argument with someone that claim his HV output is DC even if it make the neon lit at both side. He assume it is DC based on HV DC meter which I think is not an indication of spark direction.

I’ve been considering simplifying things and using only one recovery diode per Stingo instead of an FWBR, because most of the time, my optimized tuning results in a positive DC pulse for output anyways. But I’m not sure yet how to simplify the combiner w/o more analysis.

I think you can do it easily by combining the output after diode to load positive, and connecting load negative to battery positive.

However, there is strong reason for why I use FWBR. I found that charging with single diode ruin the battery. Two of my SLA had become capacitor, high standing voltage but no current, no longer store charge.

The other reason is to get twice more efficiency.

How can load impedance be a big factor if the output is being rectified to DC?

low load impedance force the output voltage to drop. If it is HV it force it even more to the point of reducing efficiency.

Why bother with HV at all then? And in this case I want a fast charger too, not just a battery rejuvenator. What config would you suggest if I dumped the HV secondary, i.e. short it to common instead?

The theory is to try to raise the charging voltage as high as possible. But for radiant charger, it may not be neccessary.

For charging, do not connect the HV output to anything, for now.

What kind of caps should I acquire for this? What voltage rating?

50kv capacitor. Then you can do neat trick like what Jerry Volland do too .

I’ve been looking over your earlier multiple Stingo schematics as well as the latest combiner ones. I guess it's back to the drawing board on how to put together two ignition coil Stingos for battery charging.

I think simple one diode is better for HV output. But we shold only use it for battery desulfating.

Guys:
This may be a bit off topic here, but I have a question: I would like to connect a Jt to my 6 foot copper tube frame pyramid, which has been over my bed for the last 25 years. There is lots of oxide on the tube surfaces. Someone mentioned that copper oxide is good for the radiant charge to travel on the outside of the wire or tubes.
I also do have a water well in my back yard, where I could connect a ground wire to running underground water source.

Wow, that is long time.

For what purposes?

For health:
From my radiant sleeping aid experiment result, I can only suggest to use ungrounded water to dump/attach the radiant output.

I would connect the pyramid with the JT source positive.

However, my experiment with JT is somewhat negative. I remember getting headache, many other people here too. Although Jeanna report the opposite with earth battery and toroid with three coil.

For energy generation:
I would try placing radiant plus and minus to antenna located at combination of top, 2/3 height or 1/3 height. But I will put crystal at 2/3 height first.

Read pyramid thread too:

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/6497-pyramid.html?highlight=pyramid

I post reason why crystal at 2/3 height of pyramid can be important.

I deliberately adjust them to 900 mA, to be able to compare them (JT,one stingo, and three stingo) .

That is unfair I think. I think it is better if you tune the circuit individually. I think you can get more efficient result for all.

No, it is not the maximum, of course..., Tuning the 500 K pot. could be the last unresolved issue...I could try this too one of this days since i removed them and put instead of them resistors (100 K), i told you that earlier, maybe you forgot it, but it is ok, i forget too a lot of things...

100K is better for charger. But as I told you before, one of my double stingo have the potentiometer removed.

And one question at the end of this post :
What do you think about switching collector and emitter of PNP ?
Could it allow stingo more efficiency ?

PNP in inverted way get me more than 100% improvement in efficiency

Could you explain this a little bit more ?

I think he means it is better if your toroid can produce more than 60V. I think all toroid is capable of doing that.

I measured their consumptions one by one few days ago when i disassembled them, but if you still think that i should do this i could try that too !

Yes, thanks. I want to see how the power distributed.

Ideally, I would tune each stingo because combining the stingo may change resonant point.

[cikljamas]

PNP in inverted way get me more than 100% improvement in efficiency

So, i put the right question ?
I tried that switching tonight and i noticed that stingos lower
input (with highest resistance of pot.) is much higher than
when collector emitter are in standard connection...It is
because of emitter characteristic as one that consume or
transfer more current than collector i guess ?

And it seems that this reverse combination gives stingo
more stability when turning the pot., but i did not notice
such a great difference in efficiency ( 100 % ?????????? )
Are you joking or what ?

If it was the truth than we would have OU at once, am i right ?

Rgds !

[sucahyo]

And it seems that this reverse combination gives stingo more stability when turning the pot., but i did not notice such a great difference in efficiency ( 100 % ?????????? ) Are you joking or what ?

No, it just means that in normal PNP use my stingo consume 1000 mA, and in reverse PNP use my stingo consume 450 mA. 1000/450 = 2.22. That is more than 100% improvement.

I just want to say twice more efficient.