Joulethief SEC exciter and variants

[MonsieurM]

This is the weirdest synchronicity, yesterday i was checking out this model with a friend, he is going to China so i thought i'd ask him to bring me an RC Model....

i know it is out of topic, but it was too weird, i had to post it...

[Slider2732]

Cool The Vectron Wave isn't very cool though from what i've seen of this one. The rotor blades hitting the floor is unforgiveable, as is the flip upside down through not being balanced. They only go up and down, but will react to hand movements and they set their own hover point in the air, which is quite good.
I would most certainly recommend a little 3 channel heli for the same sort of price and if you want something easy to fly inside the house...the Syma S107 is a definite good one. Blade Mcx2 is another.
Syma S107 Helicopter Review
Never heard a bad thing about those S107's, i'll get one when I grow up or get famous LOL

Speaking of the Vectron Wave though. Just wound a 12 turn bifilar for this one, now that it's gutted out. The coil will sit on the bottom of the craft as wireless energy pickup.
I need to build 4x 2SA1020 Slayer exciter circuits and 2 more pop bottle towers. I don't think I have 3 more 1020's though. Time to hunt around.

[dR-Green]

Experiments over here today are to include multi tower running. 4x Slayer circuits and 4 towers arranged in a square, to see if the wireless fields can resonate with each other. Fields never seem to cancel each other if running more than 1 setup near another, but i'm wondering if multiple runners might amplify. Anyone any ideas on that ?

I don't know, but I can't help but think of what John Hutchison was doing. As far as I know he was using two different fields or frequencies, and this differential between them was causing interesting effects. You might want to check this thread out if you haven't seen it

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/7169-david-sereda-differentials-crop-circles-anti-gravity.html

I haven't tried a Slayer circuit yet since getting things up and running, but I would have thought they might amplify if they are in phase. Then again these things never act how I expect them to so I'm just guessing. Can the circuits be connected together, or run off a single trigger kind of thing like an SG circuit so get them all oscillating at the same time?

Awesome idea with the UFO thing btw. Sounds like something I'd like to try myself at some point

[dR-Green]

@dR Green.Great to see you have got some circuits going .
The pan oscillator and slayer circuits are not short circuits.The trigger coil and L2 coil with the slayer circuit form resistive loads and i Would not expect either circuit to draw over 160mA at 12V but what you will find with these circuits is that sometimes it is detrimental to use higher voltages for example you can light leds to full brightness on 3v.Slider gets plasma at 3.75v so it is easy to overdrive an exciter circuit for no visible gain when lighting leds as they will not get any brighter.
Regarding leds.What type are you using?I find 10000mcd blue leds to be very good with these circuits but be careful as they will damage your eyes if you look at them directly.Jonny

Thank you I had to get the "lucky bag" of LEDs from Maplin because I needed them there and then, so these are the best I could come up with. I just remembered I've got a 12v 21 LED light as well though so I'll try that. I found a pretty good alternative to a neon bulb though. A hollow cathode lamp, the equivalent of about 200 neons I nearly dropped it in shock as the entire tube lit to orange and red.

I noticed a strange thing when playing around with different things though, I think making the circuit draw too much current (like over 200-250mA) triggers the effect. Maybe my meter has gone crazy, but either way, it goes from a minimum of 20mA to a maximum of 200mA, it mostly settles around 80mA when I'm about 2 feet away and goes up to 140mA when I step further away. 200mA is just a peak I sometimes notice. If I'm playing around with the output and manage make it draw a bit too much, the meter starts displaying -560mA, the transistor gets hotter, but all effects continue to happen as normal. Note the MINUS 560mA I have to turn the (simple SEC in this case) circuit off and back on to get it back to normal. And sometimes even then it goes straight back into the minus.

Also I connected the HV output through a spark gap into ground. 15 seconds or so of that caused the power supply to shut down.

[Slider2732]

@ dR...
I'll check out that thread
I like Hutchison, one of those strange fellows that we like, but are never quite sure why. Polyphase wireless energies hmmm

Great stuff with the big tube you mention. Intriguing. A chap some pages back had something that sounds like that, looked like a medical kit and was 60 years old or similar (the equipment, not the chap).

Analog meters will respond heavily to HV, the coil inside them sends the needle upward and off the range. Digitals it seems do similar, reporting any and every reading until they stop displaying anything. Best to keep meters a foot away at least.
PC mice are another...had some fun there unexpectedly. If the mouse wire is on top of the power to the tower, the HV will travel back down and really upset the mouse. I get the screen scrolling up and down and the mouse self clicks stuff on web pages !

[Slider2732]

Turns out that N20 motors don't like 1N4148 diodes. I can get a pager type motor to spin really well with a FWBR and 47uF cap, but the motor in the Vectron Wave just aint doing a thing.
I'll try out Jonny's idea: YouTube - ‪Single transistor rectification of HV, HF AC‬‏

[totoalas]

Other Source for Jt Circuit

Hi to all
Besides ground as source Maybe we can use the Neutral as well for jt circuits
I know we have a lot of redundant coils that are idle so we can test it with Neutral and see what happens

cheers

totoalas





YouTube - ‪One Wire Free Energy transfer Variant 4 090711.avi‬‏

[dR-Green]

I just tried the JT SEC, no oscillations The LED across the emitter and base flashes briefly when I turn the circuit on and off, but it remains off when the power is left on and the circuit is drawing 280-300mA, and the transistor (BC182) gets hot. I'm using the same 6kV trigger transformer as before, a tiny toroid out of a CFL with 5 turns of 0.2mm stranded wire, and all the same materials (IE trays) that worked with the simple SEC circuit.

So I have a couple of questions if I may. Is it supposed to start oscillating when you connect the power, and if not, is it started by using a 100 ohm resistor (across the HV output and trigger transformer negative)? Also, should it be drawing 280mA when it's supposedly not doing anything? (Apparently forming the short circuit I mentioned earlier).

Thanks

[Slider2732]

Ah, I think I know (raises hand)
Your transistor isn't switching, just sitting there. The circuit is fine, all connections good, but the transistor has no Base signal that it can use.
You might try firing a piezo gas stove type lighter next to the coil, one of Jonny's tricks to get circuits oscillating, or might put a variable 10K pot from Base to the positive of your supply. Many transistors only work in a certain range of Base resistance and very often a pot can be used to find where that point is. The LED across the transistor legs again really helps..as soon as it lights you've got it.

[dR-Green]

Hi all. Just thought I'd post these pics from the video I took the other day. The small fluorescent tube to the right of the coil is, I think, the same as what Johnny demonstrates in one of his videos, 4W. So for reference, I'm getting pretty much the same output as he is with that particular bulb using a 6kV trigger transformer and aluminium trays and/or tin foil. In these pictures the trigger transformer is replaced with a small Tesla coil, 10 inches secondary (actual coil winding) length, 2 inch diameter, 28 AWG wire. The primary is 17 turns of 15 AWG, 4 inch diameter. Both are wound the same direction. The aluminium against the wall on the left is connected to the transistor base of the simple SEC circuit. The other fluorescents in the pics are 6W and 8W, the 8W one requiring 12v 500mA to run in a standard circuit. I think this circuit is running off about 9v 180mA. The other thing is the hollow cathode lamp, Chromium element. I tried another with D2 element whatever that means and nothing happened. It depends what gas is inside the thing.

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[dR-Green]

Ah, I think I know (raises hand)
Your transistor isn't switching, just sitting there. The circuit is fine, all connections good, but the transistor has no Base signal that it can use.
You might try firing a piezo gas stove type lighter next to the coil, one of Jonny's tricks to get circuits oscillating, or might put a variable 10K pot from Base to the positive of your supply. Many transistors only work in a certain range of Base resistance and very often a pot can be used to find where that point is. The LED across the transistor legs again really helps..as soon as it lights you've got it.

Thanks for the info, I'll give it a try shortly

[dR-Green]

Ah, I think I know (raises hand)
Your transistor isn't switching, just sitting there. The circuit is fine, all connections good, but the transistor has no Base signal that it can use.
You might try firing a piezo gas stove type lighter next to the coil, one of Jonny's tricks to get circuits oscillating, or might put a variable 10K pot from Base to the positive of your supply. Many transistors only work in a certain range of Base resistance and very often a pot can be used to find where that point is. The LED across the transistor legs again really helps..as soon as it lights you've got it.

It doesn't seem to want to work. I can't even get a Joule Thief to light an LED I have twisted wires on the toroid though so I'll untwist them after I get something to eat.

[dR-Green]

I converted it to a solid state SG and that worked fine but I can't get it to work as a JT

Rewound the toroid twice, it's now got 2 x 26 SWG magnet wire on there but it's doing exactly the same as before. I'll try a slightly bigger toroid next, but is there really any advantage in using a JT? At this point in time I'm not looking for the most efficient input, but aren't we really just looking for a method to trigger a transistor, so it can switch a coil/transformer on and off, and produce high voltage and high frequency output?

Seeing as the simple SEC works nicely I might just start from there, maybe put some aluminium around the Tesla coil secondary to try and make it "self contained" or whatever, so there's no bits of metal all over the place and make it look tidy. It's a bit annoying yet amusing that I can get the thing to oscillate with no wires, but it won't do anything when wires are attached though.

On the plus side I spotted some nice bits that have been salvaged out of some spectrometers last night, 5 pre wound coils that are meant to fit inside a big magnet and move some contraption back and forth. So I have a few towers ready to try there Hopefully they haven't been scratched and ruined in the pile of junk that's all.

[jonnydavro]

Hi dR-Green.Nice pics The joulethief exciter circuit you have been trying to get going was my first exciter variant and was was the catalyst for starting this thread.Here is the vid and circuit diagram for reference.

‪Joulethief SEC Exciter-wireless energy transfer.‬‏ - YouTube
I still have this circuit on a breadboard and it works great and like i mentioned in a previous reply,exciter circuits can have vastly different characteristics and this one is no exception.First of,it is a very stable circuit as the feedback to the transistor is hard wired and not effected by loading.Also the operating frequency is much lower than the simple sec,slayer exciter etc so there is an audiable squeaking from the output tray when touched so there are some interesting things to see here but as far as i am aware,i don't think anyone replicated this so i may have the only one,same thing with my bedini exciter but hopefully i can help you get yours going.
The first thing i will say is stick with the small cfl torroid.I tried larger and my amp draw went crazy.We want this circuit to run on up to 17v without using large base resistors so try to stick with a close rep on this or you will have problems.Use the 0.6mm solid core bell wire from maplins.Cut two small lenghs about 12" long and wrap like this.With the torroid facing you feed one wire through the hole away from you and do 5 turns starting at the bottom of the torroid..Then feed your other wire into the torroid from the opposite direction of the first and starting at the bottom again,wind 5 turns inbetween exhisting turns.Trim your wires off so you have 4 wires about 1 " long.Connect the two end wires,this will be the battery + connection.The other two wires will be your base and trigger coil connections as in the circuit diagram.
Test this coil out as a standard joulethief first to see if it will light a led.
The 4.7uf cap is vital in the joulethief exciter and it will not work without it.
You can use a larger variable pot if you don't have a 1k but don't have an led accross the collector emitter normal joulethief style.
Hope this helps.Jonny.

[dR-Green]

Hi dR-Green.Nice pics The joulethief exciter circuit you have been trying to get going was my first exciter variant and was was the catalyst for starting this thread.Here is the vid and circuit diagram for reference.

‪Joulethief SEC Exciter-wireless energy transfer.‬‏ - YouTube
I still have this circuit on a breadboard and it works great and like i mentioned in a previous reply,exciter circuits can have vastly different characteristics and this one is no exception.First of,it is a very stable circuit as the feedback to the transistor is hard wired and not effected by loading.Also the operating frequency is much lower than the simple sec,slayer exciter etc so there is an audiable squeaking from the output tray when touched so there are some interesting things to see here but as far as i am aware,i don't think anyone replicated this so i may have the only one,same thing with my bedini exciter but hopefully i can help you get yours going.
The first thing i will say is stick with the small cfl torroid.I tried larger and my amp draw went crazy.We want this circuit to run on up to 17v without using large base resistors so try to stick with a close rep on this or you will have problems.Use the 0.6mm solid core bell wire from maplins.Cut two small lenghs about 12" long and wrap like this.With the torroid facing you feed one wire through the hole away from you and do 5 turns starting at the bottom of the torroid..Then feed your other wire into the torroid from the opposite direction of the first and starting at the bottom again,wind 5 turns inbetween exhisting turns.Trim your wires off so you have 4 wires about 1 " long.Connect the two end wires,this will be the battery + connection.The other two wires will be your base and trigger coil connections as in the circuit diagram.
Test this coil out as a standard joulethief first to see if it will light a led.
The 4.7uf cap is vital in the joulethief exciter and it will not work without it.
You can use a larger variable pot if you don't have a 1k but don't have an led accross the collector emitter normal joulethief style.
Hope this helps.Jonny.

Thanks Johnny I was going to say "what if the joule thief doesn't light the LED?", but reading what you said about the toroid just made me think of something... Is the polarity of the windings important? I don't quite understand what you mean from the description, I always get confused when someone tries to explain in words how to wind a coil, so I suppose the only thing I haven't tried and should have been one of the first things is to change the polarity of one of the windings, like changing the polarity of the trigger in a Bedini circuit?

Does the joule thief SEC also deliver a higher voltage across the trigger transformer than the simple SEC?

Thanks for the help