Joulethief SEC exciter and variants

[rave154]

hi,

i just put my scope across my 10 turn coil on the exciter, measured around 2 - 2.1MHz..

a nice sine wave(slightly mis-shapen at the bottom), over 40V peak-peak and around 10V RMS..all from a 12V battery with 20mA !?!

[woopy]

Hi all

i ,made this post some hours ago but it desapears. probably i made a mistake.
Anyway here my result of today with 4 diodes in the test tube.

I made a winding with welding tin (unisolated) and got very good results.

first test with the bottom tin only directly connected to the L1 free wire (70 ma current ) and good electrolisis.
Than i connected the top tin wiring to the house ground, and got much stronger electrolisis with 100 ma .

good night

Laurent

[totoalas]

ok, i just quickly but fairly neatly wound 11 turns of 20SWG ( closest i had on hand ) around the bottom of L1..and connected as you instructed Johnny........BINGO !!!!!

i still have the pot in place as opposed to the single resistor to allow me a bit of "tuning" so to speak.


p.s i wound the 11 turns in the opposite direction to that of L1

Rave, why not try a pancake L2 and also 1Mohm resistor

cheers
totoalas

[Xenomorph]

hmmm...... still not geting any electrolysis...


used a smaller tube , probably even smaller diameter than johnnys.....still no luck..maybe the odd small bubble but nothing like what johnny was getting

[rave154]

hmmm...... still not geting any electrolysis...


used a smaller tube , probably even smaller diameter than johnnys.....still no luck..maybe the odd small bubble but nothing like what johnny was getting

[totoalas]

Sec@12 Volts WITH L3 ON L1 hho

hi jonny,
ive tested L3 on an incandescent bulb in place of test tube
set up
tap water plus 5 pinch of lye (or baking soda)on the bulb
connected both ends of L3 to filament
connected 4148 to L1 and immersed in the bulb
result with one 8w load on L1
when diode near filament strong electrolysis occurs
100 ma current draw
better solution
more contact surface more bubbles less spacing between metals more reaction
ps check hho@5 volts with S cell 20 amp current draw from pc power supply

another use of L3 connect one end to another L1 size 3 inches by 12 inches and will light 4 8w lamps

L3 ends connected to 2 microwave radiator and L1 output connected to third microwave raditor...... these radiators act as L1 with 8 w lamp each current draw 170 ma L1 has one 8 w load as well

ps how to attached smaller pix since im using image shack and distorts THE THREAD size TY
cheers

[rave154]

ok, i just quickly but fairly neatly wound 11 turns of 20SWG ( closest i had on hand ) around the bottom of L1..and connected as you instructed Johnny........BINGO !!!!!

i still have the pot in place as opposed to the single resistor to allow me a bit of "tuning" so to speak.

much more action now...neon lights from quite a way from the L1...and also lights up along the whole length of L1 and not just the top 1/3rd of it.



p.s i wound the 11 turns in the opposite direction to that of L1

[rave154]

thanks for the info guys, i think i can see where i was going wrong...

its interesting that so far at least.....it would appear to be that the closer the foil is to the leg of the diode....the better the effect.

This would seem to imply that this is, in a way, electrolysis via voltage only?

How about a new container for the water...something with an inside diameter that is only perhaps 2mm larger than leg of the diode itself, thus enabling a very close "coupling" between the foil and the leg of the diode.

hmm....interesting stuff

[slayer007]

@Rave154

Try it with a smaller container something small like a test tube.
I tried it with a small jar but could only get a few small bubbles off the diode.
But with something small like a test tube it works very well.

[jonnydavro]

@rave154.Hi David.To replace the torroid.Wrap a coil onto your L1 maybe about 10 turns of 18swg and that will give allow you to remove a few later for tuning. Connect one end of your large L1 coil to the base of transistor.

Connect one end of your L2 to battery + and the other end to the collector.If it dosen't work,reverse these two connections.
Try it with the 16k resistor from battery + to base and you may be able to remove this once its running but i leave mine connected.Jonny

[rave154]

@ johnny / anyone...

how do i modify the circuit johnny is using that has the L2 on a toroid...to instead have the L2 wrapped around the base of the L1?

[rave154]

played around with pot values...using around 47K set at max seems to produce the best results and also.the lowest amp draw.

rigged up the water container, L1 to foil etc.... the foil is live checking with neon & AV plug.and so is the water..both neon & AV plug light up when their terminals are placed in the water

consuming around 30mA at the moment.... no bubbles as far as i can see though...but i am using quite a large container... perhaps 35mmm diameter.,..so the diode inside is quite aways from the foil.

[rave154]

ok, got it to work ( i think )...by flipping the L1... the neon lights..but has to be almost touching the coil..will only light on the top 1/3rd of the coil..go below this and it will not light.

AV plug lights too, again has to be VERY close to L1

[rave154]

Johnny,

tried reversing the connections of L2, no joy, replaced 16K with 10K pot.. set at max..amp draw increased and of course as i reduced the pot the amp draw increased..but still nothing with either neon or AV plug... L2 is wound in opposite direction to L1 btw.

[Farrah Day]

@Farrah.I tried the kitchen scourer and it works and i could see no deteriation at all of the electrodes although there was a lot of gunk around it.This was a three hour test using defrosted ice from my freezer.What do you think?jonny

I think you should have cleaned the scourer of the remains of last night's meal first ! lol

Joking apart, true ss electrodes should not corrode in plain water so there should no longer be a corrosion or consumable issue... other of course than the water itself which will eventually need topping up.

As I've previously mentioned it's now simply a matter of finding the most suitable frequency, the best configuration of components... and SCALING UP!

Great stuff JD.