Joulethief SEC exciter and variants

[slayer007]

In this video I just wanted to show the circuit I used in my last video.

And show some of the wireless range of the Exciter.

YouTube - Hartley Slayer Exciter Circuit

[Lidmotor]

Better Mouse Trap

@Kooler (Robbie)
I could not remember exactly where you posted that Hartley circuit but I am sure glad that you did. I'm sorry to hear that someone took your solar lights. That tells me that --YOU-- have built the "better mouse trap", people saw it, and when you wouldn't sell it (or give it away)----they just took it. That is a statement on the situation of our world today. It is sad. Anyway thanks for all the work that you have done on these projects and for sharing. I am curiuos about the "four other ways you can make this" but I have studdied your work and will go back and look at it. I think I remember the circuit with the four inductors and two diodes.

@Slayer
Thanks for posting the video with the circuit diagram. I was way off in how I thought that you were joining the two circuits.

Lidmotor

[Lidmotor]

The new Hartley/Slayer Exciter----my replication

@Slayer and All
Here is my replication (with a few changes) of the new Hartley/Slayer exciter. It works great!!

YouTube - Hartley - Slayer Exciter.ASF

Lidmotor

[conradelektro]

Hartley - Slayer oscillator

@Kooler: great that you brought up the Hartley circuit

@Slayer: excellent video, it really explains how to build the Hartley-Slayer, very good idea to combine the two oscillators

@Lidmotor: I guess you have a Ferrite core in the coil (with the free end leading to the little two eyed monster)? When experimenting with cement-batteries, I observed that blinking when driving Joule Thief circuits with them. Looking with a scope, I saw that the oscillation stops and restarts. It seems, the weak cement battery breaks down and recovers (which gives the rhythmic blinking). After a few weeks I had to water the cement batteries occasionally and after a few months they stopped working. Some stuff builds up on the metal surfaces (aluminium/copper) and isolates the metals from the cement, it looks like corrosion.

I wounder why one needs the Ferrite core in the 80T coil? To get more induction? May be one could use a toroid instead of the Ferrite rod (which is a bit difficult to find)? Or one winds the 80 turns onto a big iron nail?

Greetings, Conrad

[jonnydavro]

@Slayer Great new Circuit.This is what this thread is for and that looks like a pretty nice "Variant" .
I would be interested to hear your thoughts on how it compares to a Slayer exciter output wise as it looks really strong in your vid and your second tower looks like a great reciever tower.I bet it would work further away.
If you can combine a hartley oscillator then a colpitts oscillator should work too.
Thanks for sharing.Jonny
@Lidmotor.Great quick rep.This looks like a great circuit and it just goes to show that there are still lots for us to discover.
The fact that this circuit runs on so little make it very useful and it should proove very useful in your cement battery experiments.
How does it look on a scope compared to a standard Slayer exciter if there is such a thing Nice work.Jonny.

[slayer007]

@ Lidmotor

Great video..Thanks for showing this run on such a low power source.


@ Conradelektro

Thanks..The ferrite core in the antenna coil does help with the output for the Hartley Oscillator.I haven't tried a ferrite toroid yet but it should work.

When I first set this up I left the L1 coil disconnected.I tuned the Hartley Oscillator to the strongest output with the lowest input then connected the L1 coil.

@ JonnyDavro

I think the output is close to the same.But this setup will run with a lot less current intake allowing us to run this at higher voltages. I tried it off a 12v transformer that was @ 17.5v the field was very strong.The little transistor did get warm but never did get hot.

The load was 40w fl tube and 39 leds that were very bright.

[Lidmotor]

@Conrdelektro
Thanks for the description of your cement battery experiments. I am going to let mine go completely dry and see if there is any power left months from now. I suppose that I could simply "bake" one in the oven for a few hours at low heat as an easy test--- or maybe throw one on the BBQ. That is really why I am working with these low power circuits. It is my hope that the cement cell will produce some power bone dry. Then it is just a case of adding more cells to get the power that you need to run something. If mine go dead like yours did I will not be surprised. It will have been just another interesting galvanic cell experiment.

In the video I do not have a ferrite rod in that coil with the two LEDs attached. I am using the ferrite core on the small soda straw coil instead as a tuning point. In the video the rod isn't even in that coil. The variable capacitor is doing the tuning instead. I found out that you can configure this circuit in several ways and it will still work. The trick will be to find the best way. Actually it is hard to beat the basic Slayer Exciter circuit. It is so simple and effective. The lure of this particular Hartley oscillator was that it will run on micro amps.

@Slayer
I burned up a few MPSA06 transistors trying to run mine on 12 volts so I am going to wind up a new Hartley coil like you are using. My amp draw is way too much at the higher voltage. I tried a TIP31 but the results were not great. It has to be my coil mismatch.

Lidmotor

[jonnydavro]

Micro slayer ferrite exciter

Hi.I did a bit more work on my mini slayer ferrite exciter today and ended up with a micro slayer ferrite exciter measuring 4cm which will light a fluorescent tube on a 1.5v AA and it may even be possible to make it smaller and still retain a high output.
I wound the new coil on a smaller diameter tube (empty permanent marker pen) to get the ferrite rod closer to the windings.This circuit will not work without the ferrite rod.You can also use a very low turn L2 coil.
I think the wire I used was 30swg but the wire was a lot finer than I usually use but as the coil is so small,it does not take long to make.
Here is a vid.Jonny
YouTube - Micro slayer ferrite exciter

[slayer007]

@Jonny

Great job with your micro exciter.

I tried to make one even smaller but it didn't work.

I wrapped three turns around a 22uH choke but no luck with it.

[aaron5120]

Mini Slayer Exciter circuit

Hi.I did a bit more work on my mini slayer ferrite exciter today and ended up with a micro slayer ferrite exciter measuring 4cm which will light a fluorescent tube on a 1.5v AA and it may even be possible to make it smaller and still retain a high output.
I wound the new coil on a smaller diameter tube (empty permanent marker pen) to get the ferrite rod closer to the windings.This circuit will not work without the ferrite rod.You can also use a very low turn L2 coil.
I think the wire I used was 30swg but the wire was a lot finer than I usually use but as the coil is so small,it does not take long to make.
Here is a vid.Jonny
YouTube - Micro slayer ferrite exciter

Hi @jonnydavro,
Great job, Jonny. Yesterday I did got the loopstick ferrite Slayer to light partially a 20W CFL. I measured the L in the Secondary, and it was 759uH. I made the Primary to be 8uF, as well as the L2b, which is wound in another loopstick ferrite.
The current consumption was high: 180mA, and at 12V DC.
I would like to replicate your circuit, but I have several questions with regard to your setup, if you can kindly help me to clarify :
1) The number of turns of your secondary coil. I think your wire gauge is AWG32~ AWG34.
2) I saw a choke in your circuit, is that the L2b in the original Mini of Slayer? How much inductance does it have?
3) do you use one MPSA06, or any other transistor?
It is impressive to light a FL just with an AA battery!
And thanks for your valuable help, keep on working, Jonny.
P.D.: Sorry to all, I will post photos later on with regard to the improved Mini

[totoalas]

Mini Slayer @ 90 mA celfone charger

Hi to all
Im not sure if somebody has done the double L1 coil with one L2
It can light an 8 w fl tube and 30 leds

Hope soebody can lower the current consumption
Ll1A 80 t no. 29 awg
L1B 80 t no 29 awg on top of L1A in reverse direction
L2 6 t 23 awg on top of L1B
Lia end connected to 8 w fl lamp
L1b start connected to led avrenko plug
1 AAcelfone charger
.01 nf cap across L2

cheers

totoalas




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[jonnydavro]

2cm Micro Slayer ferrite exciter

Hi .I managed to do some experiments with the 4cm Micro slayer ferrite exciter today and was quite suprised by the results.
The first test I did was to find the minimum run voltage and this turned out to be a head scratcher as it lit a blue led right down to 0.252v but the circuit continues to oscillate right down to 0.206v.This is using a bc182 silicon transitor .
I also tried my rectangle reciever tower and it lit a neon wirelessly on a 1.5v AA so that means we may be able to run some other circuits wirelessly.
The wireless field is suprisingly strong for such a small coil and I can detect the field at a distance of 12" with an av led detector.
I then decided to try a smaller coil and wound a 2cm L1 on another marker pen tube former and used the same L2 from the 4cm coil which is 1 1/2 turns of 18g mag wire.The way the L2 works with this setup is the more turns,the less the current draw any way it fired up no problem on a 1.5v AA and would light a neon and lots of leds but not a tube so I replaced the led indicator with a 4148 diode and that fired of the tube.
The added inductance of the ferrite rod seems to reduce the amount of wire which is normally needed and it has to be in close proximity to the windings.
@arron5120.Hi.The amount of turns is not critical for this as a 4cm one and a 2cm one both work well.What is important is the wire and the presense of a ferrite rod in close proximity to the windings.It will not work without the ferrite which is from an am/fm ariel,mines from maplins.The wire I used I think was either 32,34 or36swg but I am not sure but I will be able to clarify the exact gauge after I have been to the electronics shop which will probably be next weekend but the wire is the thinnest I have used for a slayer exciter and the start of the L1 has to be secured in the breadboard with the start resitor to jam it in.
There is no choke in the circuit,just got a few other unused circuits on the breadboard.
It is the bare bones Slayer exciter circuit with just a transistor and a 24k start resistor which I leave connected.I put an Led indicator from emmiter to base and swapped this for a 4148 diode when I used the 2cm coil.So to sum up.1 transistor,1 24k resistor,1 LED an L1 coil an L2 coil 18swg mag wire and 1 ferrite rod.
You can use an mpsa06,that is what I used in the vid but today I tried a BC182 and this also worked well for lighting tubes and it was this transistor which runs right down to 0.206v.
Also if you are taking amp readings,try and measure across a 1 ohm resistor so you keep the meters internal resistors out of the circuit.
I don't think you will have any problems getting this going and thanks for trying it out.Any problems just ask.happy experimenting.Jonny
@totoalas.Hi .I can't remenber anyone trying an up and down twin L1 and it sounds like a great idea.
Have you tried the old floating tranny mod with a 2nd mpsa06 connected collector-base,base-emmitter to get the draw down?Jonny
@Slayer.Thanks Slayer.I have tried choke too with similar results but I don't think the L1 coil likes to be wound,multi layered,back and forth as it seems to cancel the field somewhat and send amp draw up.Cheers.Jonny
Here is a pic of the 2cm micro exciter on 1.5v.Jonny

[totoalas]

Hi .I managed to do some experiments with the 4cm Micro slayer ferrite exciter today and was quite suprised by the results.
The first test I did was to find the minimum run voltage and this turned out to be a head scratcher as it lit a blue led right down to 0.252v but the circuit continues to oscillate right down to 0.206v.This is using a bc182 silicon transitor .
I also tried my rectangle reciever tower and it lit a neon wirelessly on a 1.5v AA so that means we may be able to run some other circuits wirelessly.
The wireless field is suprisingly strong for such a small coil and I can detect the field at a distance of 12" with an av led detector.
I then decided to try a smaller coil and wound a 2cm L1 on another marker pen tube former and used the same L2 from the 4cm coil which is 1 1/2 turns of 18g mag wire.The way the L2 works with this setup is the more turns,the less the current draw any way it fired up no problem on a 1.5v AA and would light a neon and lots of leds but not a tube so I replaced the led indicator with a 4148 diode and that fired of the tube.
The added inductance of the ferrite rod seems to reduce the amount of wire which is normally needed and it has to be in close proximity to the windings.
@arron5120.Hi.The amount of turns is not critical for this as a 4cm one and a 2cm one both work well.What is important is the wire and the presense of a ferrite rod in close proximity to the windings.It will not work without the ferrite which is from an am/fm ariel,mines from maplins.The wire I used I think was 30swg but I am not sure but I will be able to clarify the exact gauge after I have been to the electronics shop which will probably be next weekend but the wire is the thinnest I have used for a slayer exciter and the start of the L1 has to be secured in the breadboard with the start resitor to jam it in.
There is no choke in the circuit,just got a few other unused circuits on the breadboard.
It is the bare bones Slayer exciter circuit with just a transistor and a 24k start resistor which I leave connected.I put an Led indicator from emmiter to base and swapped this for a 4148 diode when I used the 2cm coil.So to sum up.1 transistor,1 24k resistor,1 LED an L1 coil an L2 coil 18swg mag wire and 1 ferrite rod.
You can use an mpsa06,that is what I used in the vid but today I tried a BC182 and this also worked well for lighting tubes and it was this transistor which runs right down to 0.206v.
Also if you are taking amp readings,try and measure across a 1 ohm resistor so you keep the meters internal resistors out of the circuit.
I don't think you will have any problems getting this going and thanks for trying it out.Any problems just ask.happy experimenting.Jonny
@totoalas.Hi .I can't remenber anyone trying an up and down twin L1 and it sounds like a great idea.
Have you tried the old floating tranny mod with a 2nd mpsa06 connected collector-base,base-emmitter to get the draw down?Jonny
@Slayer.Thanks Slayer.I have tried choke too with similar results but I don't think the L1 coil likes to be wound,multi layered,back and forth as it seems to cancel the field somewhat and send amp draw up.Cheers.Jonny
Here is a pic of the 2cm micro exciter on 1.5v.Jonny

Hi Jonny
Wireless is in more coils is out lol
Ur micro exciter is the cheapest so far to build
thanks to all of you SLAYER IS ALIVE AND KICKING

the floating tranny mod Mpsa06 will switch off my circuit when I inserted t
Also with 12v and tranny mode easily fried the Mpsao6 in the circuit
UPDATE
By adding 1 nf from base to L1 the current went down to 50 ma and can run @ 12 v with not so hot transistor

Need to tweak moe heheheh toroid plus 4148 on the list plus ur circuit of course
CHEERS

totoalas

[slayer007]

In this video I just wanted to show how adding a small variable capacitor across the power source you can controll the current intake.

Using the the capacitor across the power source along with the one across the L2 coil.You can still light the leds as low as 1 mA off 12v and still get fairly good light.


Around 7.5 mA @12v the leds are around full brightness.

YouTube - Small Slayer Exciter With RF Filter

[totoalas]

Hi Slayer
Back to 12 V as standard for home lighting circuit using one source battery to supply multiple Slayer Circuits
WOWWWWWWW

Attached s some video we can ponder upon and maybe integrate to the Slayer as well

cheers


totoalas
YouTube - Capacitors, AC Current Flash Light Bulb
YouTube - TROS -- "water conductivity"