"RICK'S PIPE DREAM" Magnetic Motor-Generator

[tjnlsn255]

Replication.....

Hi Rick,

I am following your every step.....

My transfer/recycle center has hundreds of dead bicycle wheels....

Time to do a little recycling.....

Keep up the GREAT work!

Tj

[Michelinho]

Magnetic field shaping.

Hi rick,

Here are 2 pictures of how one can use magnetic field shaping like Howard Johnson used in his linear magnetic motor and his Stonehedge magnetic motor. It is a round magnet ring from a 5 1/4" floppy drive.

The first picture is the magnet and the flexible magnetic magnet (like the fridge magnets) and a AAA battery for size. The second picture is a view of the untouched magnetic field using a magnetic film viewer ( 6" X 6" ). The third is the same floppy disk ring magnet with a strip of flexible magnet around the inside of the ring.

Take care,

Michel

[Michelinho]

Howard Johnson magnetic motor.

Hi rick,

That looks good and easy to replicate, too bad I have quite a few projects going. I'll follow your built and test setup for the magnetic motor.

I am familiar with Howard Johnson;work so I may step in to give you some help if you ever need it.

Take care and good luck,

Michel

[rickoff]

Replies to Tassie Mike and Jetijs:

Thanks for the kind words from both of you.

Mike - Don't worry, there's no stopping this project short of killing me, and I aim to get it all out here in the shortest time possible - no more than a week until completion of the basic running motor, and that's my promise.

Jetijs - Your motto fits in well with my rusty wheel. Just think, if I hadn't salvaged it at my local recycling center when I did, it would have been tossed into a bin with other metal parts and have been sent out for crushing. But now it has been saved and has a new life more special than its previous one. I just love turning junk into gold.

Best to both of you,

Rick

[Jetijs]

Looking good Rick
Keep up the good work!

[Tassie Mike]

Brilliant!!!

Whatever you do ---- "Do not stop"

I love it and will follow every move with enthusiasm !

Best of luck from here in

Downunder

[rickoff]

Step One of construction



When building this, please take care to cut all pipes to the exact lengths specified for best results. A miter box and miter saw are needed for precise cuts, and you can find an inexpensive plastic miter box and miter saw combination at must building supply stores. Measure each piece carefully, and mark your pipe with a sharpened number 2 pencil. Lay the pipe in the miter box, align the mark with the miter box groove, place the saw in the groove and against the pipe. Then measure from the side of blade to the pipe end to be certain that the cut will be correct for the desired dimension. This will ensure precision and avoid wasted pipe pieces. After cutting a piece, debur both ends of the piece, as well as the end remaining from the 10 ft pipe. Use a flat file (or borrow your wife or girlfriend's emery board fingernail file) to debur the pipe ends after each cut. Do not file or sand the surface of the pipe ends to make them fit easily in the elbows and tees. They are already sized correctly, and should fit snugly. I suggest that you cut all your pipes first, before beginning assembly. When ready to assemble, start with section D and place a tee (part C) on each end. Lay a board on your floor, place the end of one tee on the board, and hold the assembly vertically. Place a small block of wood on top of the upper tee and tap on the block with a hammer until section D is seated fully into the tees. Lay the assembly on the floor and check to see if the center projection of both tees touches the floor at the same time when rolled over. If not, turn one of the tees so that they are aligned properly. Install a part B inside each end of the assembly and tap these in to seat them in the manner aforementioned. Then add part A elbows at each end and seat them. Lay the assembly on the floor and make certain that both elbows lay flat against the floor in alignment with each other. Aligning this way makes the remaining assembly steps easier. Next, repeat this procedure to make three more identical assemblies. When that work is completed, use parts E to join the assemblies together, again using care to seat the pipes properly. When finished, each of your two end assemblies will look like the one pictured above. Remember, do not use any cement to bind the joints. You will later be using number 4 x 1/2 inch pan head sheet metal screws to stabilize the pipe joints, but not until the entire test stand is complete. Each tee will require 10 screws, and each elbow will require 8 screws, so that comes to 288 screws. Best way is to buy three packs of 100. If you use a screwdriver to turn these in then your hand will get really tired unless you do just a few joints at a time. Better way is to use a small phillips head attachment on an electric driver or an electric drill which has variable trigger speed. You will need an electric drill and a 3/32" drill bit to make pilot holes for the screws, but don't drill the holes now. Wait until instructed to do so, please.

Thanks for your interest. I hope you found this first step of construction easy to follow and thoroughly explained. My aim is to make these construction procedures so simple that a third grade student could follow them with no problem. One does not need to be a skilled craftsman to build this, and if you follow directions carefully I think you will be pleased with the finished product.

Tomorrow I will post step #2 of the construction process, so be sure to return after completing step #1.

Best to all,

Rick

[rickoff]

Preliminary assembly of test stand.



Hi folks,

Here is a photo showing my test apparatus in its early stage of development. It is pretty much pieced together now, although I have not yet attached the stator arm. The frame is made of 1 inch PVC pipe and fittings, so is quite lightweight, yet is of sufficient strength for my purposes. You can see that my rusty, salvaged junk Huffy 26 inch steel bike wheel is mounted between two steel plates attached to the PVC frame. And that's it, basically. A very simple and straight forward build. You might ask why I would choose to use this junk wheel, and the answer is simple - it was free. I love to make use of free parts whenever possible. The wheel rim was bent when I found it, but I straightened it out enough so that there is only about 1/8 inch of runout from side to side. The bearings aren't all that great either - I cleaned them and applied fresh wheel bearing grease, but it seems that at least one of the bearings has a flat on it, as I can hear an audible imperfection as the wheel rotates which sounds almost as if there were a grain of sand stuck in there. I'll see if I can round up replacement bearings, but will go ahead with my tests regardless. I figure that if my rig works well with this wheel then it can only do better with a good wheel and bearings. You will want to start looking for your wheel. You may get lucky and find one at your local recycling center, or find a good wheel on a used bike selling inexpensively in a local newspaper or on craigslist classifieds: jobs, housing, personals, for sale, services, community, events, forums on the Internet.

I wanted to build something that anyone could duplicate easily with minimal skills and very few tools needed, and at a reasonably low cost. It had to be sturdy enough to be practical and long lasting, light enough for one person to pick up and tote around, and versatile enough to allow for many uses. One could adapt this idea for use as a Bedini SSG, a mechanical motor, a pulse motor, a permanent magnetic motor, or perhaps some other use that I haven't thought of yet. What's nice is that this rig can be used horizontally as shown in the photo, or it can be tipped up to be used vertically as well. I'll be adding some leveling apparatus tomorrow to allow leveling in either plane. Of course the unit can also be turned over so that the opposite side of the wheel can be used for additional experimentation or enhancement. My magnets are expected to arrive tomorrow (Monday). In the meantime I will finish up my stator arm and leveling fixtures. I haven't used any cement to bond the PVC pipe and fittings - they are just hand tight right now. I wanted to keep things easy to disassemble so as to make alterations simple and quick. Once I have everything as I want it, I will tighten all the joints with #4 x 1/2" pan head sheet metal screws, which will still allow for disassembly or further alterations.

My next post will show the first stage of construction. If you would like to build this, and want to pick up all the PVC materials needed for the frame, here is what you will need:

• Three 10 ft lengths of 1 inch, schedule 40, PVC pipe.
• Sixteen 1 inch PVC elbows.
• Sixteen 1 inch PVC tees.

Parts notes: I bought my 10 ft PVC pipes at Home Depot, where they are currently on sale at $2.37 each. The elbows and tees come in contractor bags of 5 at a reduced price of $2.66 per bag for tees and $2.15 per bag for elbows at Lowes, so if you buy them there you will need three bags of each plus one loose elbow and one loose tee, which cost $0.48 and $0.59 respectively. So total cost for the PVC parts listed above is $22.61. Additional parts used for the construction procedures will be shown as required for the various construction steps where needed.

Watch for the first stage of construction, which will be shown in my next post today. Additional steps will follow each day until all steps have been shown. I hope you find this project informative, useful, and enjoyable.

Best regards,

Rick

[rickoff]

A pipe dream is a fantastic hope or plan that is generally regarded as being nearly impossible to achieve. - Wikipedia

Hi folks,

I thought that "Rick's Pipe Dream" would be a very appropriate title for this thread for the following 2 reasons:
1. As seen in the above quote, the reality of a useful magnetic motor -generator has been something that has eluded mankind to this point in time. Inventors come, and inventors go, and along the way there have been several inventors who have promised to show us a working magnetic motor. At least one of these inventors (Howard Johnson) was successful at obtaining a patent for his ideas (US Patent # 4,151,431). He filed the patent application in 1973, and it was finally granted on April 24, 1979 - some 6 years later. But wait a minute - why is it that his magnetic motor never went to manufacture? Why is it that, 30 years later, each and every one of us does not have a Howard Johnson motor-generator powering our homestead? To most logical thinkers, it would seem that perhaps Howard Johnson's ideas just didn't pan out. His ideas had to work, or he would not have been granted a patent. But did he ever build a working magnetic motor that could be considered powerful enough to serve a truly useful purpose? Some say yes, and claim to have seen such a machine, but then where is it? If the claims are true, then it would seem that his great invention has been purposely kept from us by those interests who seek to suppress inventors and inventions which are capable of bringing about significant change that threatens the status quo. What the case may actually be is really anyone's guess at this point in time, and Howard Johnson is now dead and gone. He wrote a nice book titled "The Secret World of Magnets," before dying, and that does have some interesting theory and photos in it, but no photo of a magnetic motor-generator. So what are we to think? In looking over his patent drawings, his concepts seem to be very capable of working, but we have all been told time and again that no one has ever been able to build a working motor-generator using the patent information. That may have changed recently, though, when an experimenter calling himself "MYLOW" began posting videos of a purported Howard Johnson magnetic motor replication on YouTube. For those who aren't yet familiar with those experiments, you will find 2 or 3 threads here if you do a search on the name "MYLOW." There is also an open source project for the MYLOW motor at Peswiki. Mylow seems like your "average Joe" type of guy, and comes across as being sincere, but there has been so much negativity surrounding his videos that he appears ready to give up. He also claims that he was threatened by government agents, and told to stop what he has been doing. Well, I for one think that Mylow's videos may be factual. I can not say for certain that they were the real thing, because I have not had the opportunity to personally inspect his build. For that matter, it seems that no one else has either. Peter Lindemann reported that Sterling Allan had travelled to MYLOW's location hoping to see the motor firsthand, but that he was given some excuse as to why Mylow could not show the motor at that time. (see http://www.energeticforum.com/52959-post5.html for more info). Many people, including Dr. Lindemann, now believe that MYLOW's magnetic motor is a hoax. Several people have attempted to replicate MYLOW's build, but apparently with no success at achieving continuous rotation. MYLOW did his best to show that there is nothing driving his rotor other than the magnetic forces, but the object of complaint and skepticism heard from most observers is the hefty column base that houses a bearing and who knows what else. Viewers are suggesting that there is a battery and electric motor inside the base column, and of course that is possible. The rotation starts off very slowly, and is only 80 rpm at top speed, so this action is what one would expect of a small motor. To make matters worse, MYLOW has now posted a video showing a small turntable that does rotate using an electric motor (see YouTube - (NEW VIDEO #12) Projectmagma (Mylow) Magnet Motor ). Quite unfortunate that MYLOW has not had his build authenticated. What is fortunate, though, is that Howard Johnson's patent is long expired, which means that anyone can now build motors based on his concepts.

What I hope to show in this thread is that it is, in fact, possible to build a useful magnetic motor using Howard Johnson's principles of operation. I will be doing so in a build that is totally different than MYLOW's setup, and I will thoroughly document every step of my build in such a way as to make it very easy for anyone to replicate what I have done. I will list all materials used, and their sizes and specifications. My build will be made entirely with materials readily available, rather than with the obscure and unavailable parts as used by MYLOW. Many of the parts will be found locally at any hardware store or building supply. I have intentionally designed my build for ease of construction, using simple tools that many homeowners, hobbyists, and back yard mechanics already have on hand. The unit will be light weight, yet strong and durable. With care, it will last a lifetime. The design is fully open and revealing, and when I show photos and video of it there will be absolutely no question as to what makes it work.
2. The other reason that I chose the title, "RICK'S PIPE DREAM," will become apparent when you view my next post.

Seeing will be believing, if I am successful. If anyone has negative thoughts or comments in mind, please don't post them here. Save those for a different thread. I will only respond to those who are genuinely interested in pursuing a replication of my build. I have already spent a great deal of time in designing and building my prototype, and I am presenting this here as an open source project with full permission to duplicate my build. I willl show you how do do it, step by step, with absolutely nothing left unanswered. So before you start asking a lot of questions that will end up slowing my progress, please just be patient. I will post a new construction step each day, which will allow you time to build what I have shown before moving to the next step. In a week or less, if you choose to build this, your magnetic motor will be completed. I can't promise that yours will work, because you may not build it correctly. But if you take reasonable care to duplicate the details precisely as I lay them out for you, I do believe that you will be very happy with your results. I have already done some preliminary tests with various magnets which show great promise, and I am currently nearing completion of my build. I expect to receive a shipment of magnets tomorrow, and after installing them I will present some compelling video that should quell the thoughts of any would-be skeptic. So please bear with me, be courteous and respectful in any posts that you make here, and above all please do not attempt to steer this topic off course with talk about other builds or builders. I sincerely thank you for your interest in my project, and for any polite comments that you wish to offer. Many of you have said that you enjoyed reading other posts that I have contributed here, and said that my ideas are quite interesting, but have asked why I haven't shown any projects that I have been working on (other than my Hydrogen Booster). Well, the best answer I can give is that these forums have kept me so occupied in doing research and answering questions that I haven't had time for implementing my ideas! Well, things are about to change, and I hope you will like what you see. Some may not, and some may even laugh at my next post, but remember the old saying - "He who laughs last laughs best."

Best wishes to all who have taken the time to read this introduction,

Rick