Big Joule Theif

[wantfreeenergy]

It's an acronym that stands for Back Electro Magnetic Force, "if I recall correctly". On the diagram it's just noting where the collection of radiant spikes are coming from. It has nothing to do with the name of the electric component that's above it.

It's basically the point where you connect the charge battery's positive terminal. And then you connect the charge battery's negative back to the positive of the run battery, the diagram doesn't show this part.

[lancerdoom1]

I have built a small JT, and now want to move up to a larger one. I tried to just copy the circuit as before but my first transistor blew but I wanted to try slayer's circuit. I don't understand the -A -B -C +A +B +C in the section i have circled in red below. It appears to be the coil, are you using a trifilar coil?

Thanks!

hi, can you tell me what the BEMF means in the diagram ?

[Schpankme]

Hi joule theif folks ... a lot of you are pulsing toroidal cores ... you may find this useful. I have it setup in a way ... to see the effect ... at different frequencies ... your specific coils may need some tweaking

Cody,

That was a very informative video presentation, clear and concise. Let me thank you for taking the time to setup the camera work and angles, so as not to interfere with the shot (steady camera for the win).

Thank you,

- Schpankme

[cody]

Hi joule theif folks. I wanted to post this info in this thread too because a lot of you are pulsing toroidal cores, i think you may find this useful. I have it set up in a way that it is easy to see the effect im showing, at different frequencies its going to behave a little different, so your specific coils may need some tweeking if your going to play with it. Its all about tuning inductance. Here is the vid.

YouTube - Ed Leedskalnin Magnet 4

[jeanna]

looping back

Several people have tried to loop the circuit. I do not think anyone has had a self runner yet.

Could I run a motor somehow off this circuit? I was thinking of using the trifiler. I was thinking of using the two coils to run the circuit and create a charge, and if I could somehow I would like to loop the charge energy back to the source. Then I would like to use the third coil to power an electric motor. I could test this eventually.

I think I understand what you said about your plans for multiple secondaries.
I made a lot of tests on this last year with good results, and I just want to mention this interesting piece I saw. (among others, there were many interesting things, but this might help a lot.)

I found that each circuit that comes off the same toroid needs its own separate inductor. If you have 2 secondaries coming from the same toroid only one will work at a time, but if you get the right inductance both will work perfectly.
It was interesting too that while I ended up adding caps to many of the inductors, it was the inductor that made the difference, so I fitted the inductor first then added a cap for better repeating.

I hope this helps.
This is really great fun.

jeanna

[wantfreeenergy]

Well I've not built a circuit for around 8 months or so, till yesterday. I took apart a motorcycle/car battery charger that wasn't working. Used the small wire from the transformer and wound me an air-core bifiler coil around some plastic electrical conduit pipe.

I used 4AA batteries on the source and brought back a 9.6v battery pack that I've had for a number of years that is to an rc plane. The pack wouldn't take a charge, and couldn't power any load. But after putting it on the JT it had voltage in it. So I took off the 4AA's and put a different 9.6v pack as the source. Then hooked up the dead 9.6v pack on the charge for three hours. And three hours later it had voltage, and now it will also spin an electric motor. And now I'm using that same pack to bring back to life a 12v emergency car start battery that's been dead for a number of years.

This 12v battery had like 1v or something before I began charging it. But now it's taking voltage and it'll run the electric motor.

Good stuff. And now my mind is going again, so I have questions.

I've read through the thread. But in many places I was skimming, cus right now I'm interested in the JT for a battery charger. I wanna see if it'll give me longer run times on my RC packs. I've heard before of batteries lasting longer after they were conditioned with radiant charging. anyhow...


Has anyone looped the charge to the source to keep the source battery from draining any energy? I recall from the Imhotep Bedini thread that some were using a cap pulser and instead of charging batteries with it they would loop it back to the source battery and it would lower the amp draw. But what about one that maintaines the battery level or even charges it.


Could I run a motor somehow off this circuit? I was thinking of using the trifiler. I was thinking of using the two coils to run the circuit and create a charge, and if I could somehow I would like to loop the charge energy back to the source. Then I would like to use the third coil to power an electric motor. I could test this eventually. But right now I don't have any wire. Maybe if I can find a couple other transformers to take apart.


Also on the trifiler setup from the circuit diagram in the first post. There are two charge points. But can I connect those two charge points into one and use it for charging into a single battery?

I'm sure I'll have other questions. But these three seem to be getting my mind going the most.

I really appreciate all of the time everyone of you has spent tinkering and sharing everything you've accomplished. It makes it easy for someone like me that knows so little to follow in your footprints and get results. I suppose you can tell from my questions that I'm quite a novice.

I'll keep sending energy your way so that you'll happen upon a device that is uber simple which can power an entire home. I'm thinking something that runs indefinately without a source input. Something which simply requires one to flip a switch to turn it on. And beleive you me, if I somehow stumble upon such a device in a tinkering moment you will all be the FIRST to know.

[CosmicFarmer]

Yes watson, anyone can crank out DC from a dynamo, but if you connect the coil to a reed switch and have the coil close at the peak of your hand cranked AC waveform, now you have radiant too, and can do alot more.

Its not magic free energy, its smarter use of what we have and also learning new ways of getting what we need from previously unknown sources.

Also your choice of transistor is important like you found. A sharp attack and decay time is what you need, and for low voltages you need a specific make for that, which would not work for 9v or more, and there you would use power transistors. How many times I thought I could get it brighter with a 9volt and learn that both tranny and LEDs failed in a picosecond.... So if you want to make a hardy JT that can go from 1v to 12, use a MJL21194 which is one of the better power transistors, but if you know you only will work with 1 to 3 v, then 2n2222 mpsa06 or what have you. I think mpsa06 does not make a good JT transistor because you need almost a whole volt to turn it on, however it might have the sharpest rise an fall time, but I was reading a different transistor only needed .2v (but good luck keeping that transistor from frying with any more) , also I think PNP might use less current.


Also, watson, your discovery of a cap acrost the battery reminds me of a stiffler ladder filter... the first part anyway. just caps acrost the + and - terminals, with ferrites going along bothways. Isolates the oscillator from power supply.

[Watson]

tiny orange toroid light

This time I checked to make sure, and it is what I wanted to present.

The reason for this video is because I can see that the toroid is the most limiting factor for making a joule thief. I only realized this when the stock rooms of allelectronics and mouser emptied of the toroids we mentioned in a day.

So, I took the circuit from the 10w cfl that I had removed, and the screw base too.
I could have used the transistor and resistor from the circuit too, but I didn't think about that until later. It was the toroid I was concerned about.

---
yes a solar panel does this, but in the day this light is not needed, so a storage battery of some kind is necessary.
There are videos out there using batteries of aluminum foil and copper, or carbon. I lit a led with 2 of these in series. I didn't try the jtc with that but it would surely work with only 1 instead of 2 in series to some degree.
So, the focus is really on making a bright light with that toroid from the cfl.

And, please keep pushing this envelope, everybody! And, please show others what you have made.

jeanna

edit
let me add the LoA I get from wall mart. I am sure they are in other places. (My hardware store carries some but not all of LoA bulbs.)
They are made to resemble a standard light bulb and have 20 leds in series and a whole lot of protective caps and diodes and resistors and even a fuse, so while I have made and shown(on youtube) how I made a modified LoA bulb into a battery joule thief lamp, I wanted a simpler design.
this eventually turned into the jtpu = joule thief power unit, which is a stand alone joule thief in a switched plug socket which lights one or 2 unmodified LoA bulbs and is entirely portable.

I have nothing but praise for those who try to do their best to improve the world, rather than try to pull electricity out of thin air. It's a noble cause.

One thing that's a big problem with solar cells is a panel that can put out enough to charge a battery for a decent amount of evening light is so expensive that even those in the richest countries can't afford to buy one. I think a much easier way to generate enough to charge a battery is to use a standard dynamo like those found on bicycles to light the headlight and tail light. This dynamo puts out 6 volts at a half amp or so, which is easy for people to power with a crank. Better yet, more than one of these dynamos to develop even more power to charge the battery, and it would be powered by pedals or mounted on a bike wheel which is on a stationary stand.

Magnets and some wire are far cheaper than a solar cell. And it's possible to generate up to a dozen or two dozen watts from leg power. The nice thing about this is that the power is not dependent on the whims of the weather and time of day, which can put solar cells out of commission. Anyone, any time can crank a generator and power the lights and/or charge the batteries.

[Watson]

sorry i just noticed i put the leds in series .. they need to be in parallel..
see if that don't help..
sorry

robbie

I changed the capacitor to a smaller value and it got ten times brighter. It's up to the point where it's putting out some seriously bright light. See the end of my blog below for the details.

Watson's eBlog

[Watson]

LEDs In Parallel

sorry i just noticed i put the leds in series .. they need to be in parallel..
see if that don't help..
sorry

robbie

At first I could barely get one LED to light :-P

LEDs in parallel are okay if they're driven from a JT, as long as they're all the same coloer, and preferably from the same maker. So far, you haven't said what color the LEDs were, but I saw white ones in the videos.

I bought a bunch of blue LEDs on ebay, but the seller sent me a bunch of factory rejects with bubbles in every LED. I got them to replace the LEDs with bubble free ones, so I've been trying to use up all those bubbly blue LEDs. I'll try a few in parallel. But I got some 5-chip white 10mm LEDs from Hong Kong on ebay, and they can handle a couple hundred mA, because they're 5 LED chips in each one. Nice and bright too (for a thousand hours or so, then they go dim). I'll have to try one and see.

[Watson]

@all

I made a new video YouTube - MK1 Slim TPJT (MOTOR)

Running the motor/generator , detail on the connections ...

From my jt coil.

Your 1k pot needs a 100 ohm resistor between the center wiper pin to the proto board. The resistor protects the transistor from excessive current when the pot is turned to zero ohms, which connects the battery directly across the transistor.

I've tried running a JT with the 3055, thinking that more power meant more current. But it was barely able to light the LED. The power transistors were not made for low voltages of only a volt and a half, so they conduct little current at that low voltage. I started using the 2SD965 transistors from the flash circuits of disposable cameras, then I found the NTE11 at Fry's electronics, but those were too expensive. I ordered a bunch of KSD5041 transistors from Fairchild Semi (or Mouser, I forget), and they work so much better than 3055s that I never use those power transistors any more.

Also, the motors make good generators, just connect a LED up and give it a spin. Have fun!

[kooler]

I put it together on a proto board, but I had a hard time getting anything but a sneeze out of it. Pics and description are here.
Watson's eBlog

sorry i just noticed i put the leds in series .. they need to be in parallel..
see if that don't help..
sorry

robbie

[mk1]

@all

I made a new video YouTube - MK1 Slim TPJT (MOTOR)

Running the motor/generator , detail on the connections ...

From my jt coil.

[Watson]

My Version

watson
that was indeed a 100 uh inductor but you don't need it if you have a real good pot..
my little cheapo pots are funny acting.. so i went with a better made one and i didn't need it to fine tune it no more..there is a real good schematic on ou site
let me know and i will upload it to a image site

robbie

I put it together on a proto board, but I had a hard time getting anything but a sneeze out of it. Pics and description are here.
Watson's eBlog

[kooler]

induct - 0

i made a new circuit
video is here
YouTube - kooler's induct-O

some of you may find it interesting

robbie