Gray Tube Replication

[Aaron]

gray tube

Hallo
I am new here. I have been interesting in free energy for 5 year. I tryed a lot of machines but no free energy appear. I started to build my own Ed Gray Power Tube but dont get any green flash like Aaron.
Now I have problem with the power source of HV with rectifier, cheap diode are only for max current 1A (1000V) (BA159). But when capacitor discharge sometimes it can produce very high current impact so it sometimes can destruct diodes, so I have to use more current diode. All diodes have to be quick or normal slow rectifier diode, like P600M or 6A100. I have main cap C1(according Aaron's howthegraytubeworks.jpg) only 1 microF 4000V. My HV power source consist of microwave transformer so on the secondary winding I have 2000V, I use multiplier(from cap's and diodes) to get 4000V.
It is important to have silver tips in spark gap in tube like on http://keelynet.com/evgray/edgray1.jpg ?
Aaron how big space u have in spark gap between lowvoltage anode and highvoltage anode it looks like about 5-8mm so it is about 15-24kV or I am wrong ? U have sparks between rod and copper mesh (btw I have 2 copper perforated (by hand) tubes, I dont know where to buy copper mash) I never got sparks there. The effect with green flash appear immediately after switch on tube or it last some minutes to get green ?
Thank for anyhow advice
Antena

Hi Antena, welcome!

One thing with the current punch from cap discharges is this... if it is a 400v/300uf cap bank...the discharge of that much potential to make "hot electron current" is only hot when pushing into a resistance. However, if that charge in the caps is sucked out into a negative resistance, it is cold. Both will give an electromagnetic charge in a coil...one hot and one is cold.

I didn't use silvered tips on my copper rods but from some of the wear I'm getting, I can imagine it would hold up longer.

The space between my rods varied from a fraction of a mm up to a couple mm's but not as big as you mention.

I bought my copper mesh screen from an art supply store. It is commonly used for making sculptures. It is really thin so very pliable and easy to work with.

You can get the effect once per switch as long as there is enough in the caps.

[antena]

Tube

Hallo
I am new here. I have been interesting in free energy for 5 year. I tryed a lot of machines but no free energy appear. I started to build my own Ed Gray Power Tube but dont get any green flash like Aaron.
Now I have problem with the power source of HV with rectifier, cheap diode are only for max current 1A (1000V) (BA159). But when capacitor discharge sometimes it can produce very high current impact so it sometimes can destruct diodes, so I have to use more current diode. All diodes have to be quick or normal slow rectifier diode, like P600M or 6A100. I have main cap C1(according Aaron's howthegraytubeworks.jpg) only 1 microF 4000V. My HV power source consist of microwave transformer so on the secondary winding I have 2000V, I use multiplier(from cap's and diodes) to get 4000V.
It is important to have silver tips in spark gap in tube like on http://keelynet.com/evgray/edgray1.jpg ?
Aaron how big space u have in spark gap between lowvoltage anode and highvoltage anode it looks like about 5-8mm so it is about 15-24kV or I am wrong ? U have sparks between rod and copper mesh (btw I have 2 copper perforated (by hand) tubes, I dont know where to buy copper mash) I never got sparks there. The effect with green flash appear immediately after switch on tube or it last some minutes to get green ?
Thank for anyhow advice
Antena

[Electrotek]

Hi Aaron and all
I feel that the following patents may help with the replication of a Gray tube.
US 3,781,601 US 5,502,354 US 3,471,316 US 5,449,989 US 5,416,391.
Also study the work of Alexander Chernetski.

US Patent #4,260,933 may also be related, if it turns out that Gray was using a high frequency system, rather than a brute force switch. And I agree that a Chernetski effect may occur in the Overshoot spark.

[stevend]

Hi Steven,

A lot of power definitely isn't needed to get the effect. However, adding potential current (not voltage) does give a stronger bang. This doesn't mean that the outcome is actual realized hot electron current but something else like magnetic current.

I used HVo5-15's or something like that in as far as diodes in some successful attempts but mostly I did use 1000v 6a diodes (6A100's). They hold up a lot better.

I have used the 200v/330uf caps in multiple places on the circuit. As one cap and as 2 in series, 2 in parallel and then 4 with a pair in series , which is in parallel with another pair in series for 400v/330uf. Even though that is a good bit of capacitance compared to the HV source, it doesn't translate into normal current in my experience.

The group of 4 of those caps gave the best result with attracting or repelling coils. These are super cheap caps and you can probably equal the specs by getting some free throw away disposable cameras at a photo developing lab. Just put enough in series and parallel.

Anyway, the I did post another diagram here that is simpler than the "standard" gray tube diagram you posted and works just as well.

Hi Arron,
I went to a photo developing lab yesterday and they kindly gave me 12 free disposable cameras, after the customers' films had been removed of course. So far the caps I've removed are around 100uF each. Thanks for the tip! Some even had their partially used batteries still in them.

I want to go with the standard gray tube because of the similarity with the pots (2 large cans) of the testatika, which I also experiment with. The small testatika puts out 300W and has only one grid whereas the large testatika puts out 3kW and has 20 grids. This is as you suggested, that the grids enhance the effect and the more grids, the more the enhancement. I want to test that. Much of the testatika circuit is unknown but it may work out to the same principle, just without the arcing. Reference to the testatika pots can be found here:
http://rimstar.org/sdenergy/testa/potstheory1.htm

Thanks for the details,
Steve

[peter99]

Patents that may help with Gray tube replication

Hi Aaron and all
I feel that the following patents may help with the replication of a Gray tube.
US 3,781,601 US 5,502,354 US 3,471,316 US 5,449,989 US 5,416,391.
Also study the work of Alexander Chernetski.

[martin]

Cool. What kind of pins are you using? Are they just regular sewing stick pins or small nails like hanging pictures? Im just wondering if they might be plated with nickel or something.

[Ghst]

Martin This is how I set up to collide the to discharges.

http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/9505/martinn.jpg

[Ghst]

Martin, keep it simple, start with a srtaight line of pins to get the effect. then when you see what is going on , continue with the circle of pins.

http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/6820/pinsetup.jpg

[Aaron]

Gray Tube project

Aaron,
I'd like to replicate your gray tube with the same voltage but with a lower power source and lower capacity capacitors. The theory I'd like to test is that a lot of power is not needed from the power supply for the radiant event (green flash) but only voltage. So I'd still pump C2 up to around 1000V but C2 would be pico- or nano- farads. If it works then it'd be clear that the power for the electromagnet would come from the radiant event and not a charged C2 being discharged quickly. Plus, it'd then be easier to turn around and run the lower power source.


From your earlier videos it looks like D1 was 15 diodes in series, each 1000V, 6A. Is that what you used in your successful replication?

Also from your earlier videos is looks like C3 was one 200V, 300uF electrolytic cap. Is that what you used in your successful replication or did you hook up more of them and if so, how (series, parallel)?
I need to know how many to order.

Was there anything in your experience in doing your tests that says this should not work?
Thanks,
Steve

Hi Steven,

A lot of power definitely isn't needed to get the effect. However, adding potential current (not voltage) does give a stronger bang. This doesn't mean that the outcome is actual realized hot electron current but something else like magnetic current.

I used HVo5-15's or something like that in as far as diodes in some successful attempts but mostly I did use 1000v 6a diodes (6A100's). They hold up a lot better.

I have used the 200v/330uf caps in multiple places on the circuit. As one cap and as 2 in series, 2 in parallel and then 4 with a pair in series , which is in parallel with another pair in series for 400v/330uf. Even though that is a good bit of capacitance compared to the HV source, it doesn't translate into normal current in my experience.

The group of 4 of those caps gave the best result with attracting or repelling coils. These are super cheap caps and you can probably equal the specs by getting some free throw away disposable cameras at a photo developing lab. Just put enough in series and parallel.

Anyway, the I did post another diagram here that is simpler than the "standard" gray tube diagram you posted and works just as well.

[martin]

Ghst, here's a test setup that was built, but for some reason is not giving the same effects as in your video. Can you look at this and see what you think is not the same as your circuit? The microwave caps were first tried, but they keep on getting punctured from the HV from the coil so the hv units were substituted in.

[CosmicFarmer]

Violet Ray?

Hey dudes, Just wondering if this green discharge is the same flavor of green that the grey tube makes? Its in the spark gap in a master violet ray.
YouTube - Tesla coil fun 1

Also when you say automotive points, if I go into an auto zone and ask for points, will they know what I'm looking for? contact points....

Thanks guys great work on the sparks :-)

[stevend]

Aaron,
I'd like to replicate your gray tube with the same voltage but with a lower power source and lower capacity capacitors. The theory I'd like to test is that a lot of power is not needed from the power supply for the radiant event (green flash) but only voltage. So I'd still pump C2 up to around 1000V but C2 would be pico- or nano- farads. If it works then it'd be clear that the power for the electromagnet would come from the radiant event and not a charged C2 being discharged quickly. Plus, it'd then be easier to turn around and run the lower power source.


From your earlier videos it looks like D1 was 15 diodes in series, each 1000V, 6A. Is that what you used in your successful replication?

Also from your earlier videos is looks like C3 was one 200V, 300uF electrolytic cap. Is that what you used in your successful replication or did you hook up more of them and if so, how (series, parallel)?
I need to know how many to order.

Was there anything in your experience in doing your tests that says this should not work?
Thanks,
Steve

[Electrotek]

Ghst: I think you're getting close with your latest setup. This reminds me of one effect I got with my gradient plate, when the spark travels along the outside, rather than through the hole. And the foil pieces don't even go all the way to the outer edge. Since dielectric makes the segmented arc gap's gradient stronger, you might try smearing some silicone or something along one edge and between the plates. Cold electricity travels better along a dielectric anyway.

Remember the file you sent me about the Dynamics of the Electric Arc? As the arc progresses, an electron cascade is produced as the existing free electrons knock off more electrons from the oxygen atoms. The file says there's basically no limit to how many free electrons can be produced. So the more you can stretch the arc, the more power you can extract from it. Your comb spacer looks a lot like the Venetian Blinds electrodes used to extract power from a moving plasma. You might try using a second comb assembly, spaced from the flash arc and connected to the output circuit. Connecting all the plates together with an output wire might work. Or each plate might have to be connected to a small capacitor, with the caps commutated in sequence as per TT Brown's system.

The latest approach is to use a magnetized electrode to collect one charge from the plasma, surrounded by a few non magnetized electrodes to collect the other charge. See Patent Application US 2004 0095705 A1

[Ghst]

Better-n-Better

Martin, thanks for the cold electricity test suggestions. I might give it a shot.
Well I've used nails, pins, pin circles and the regular Ed Grey tube setups. But I have a totally new and different thing going now. I'm using small, thin, 1 inch square plates cut trom a thin piece of brass sheet a bought at Ace Hardware. (About $3.00). I glued them between the fine teeth of two hair combs And I think I have found the winning setup. There is a lot of action between these brass pieces, and I'm getting stronger discharges. Watch the video and you can see exactly how I have everything hooked up. I just need to put it inside a tube.
YouTube - Multiple spark gap using brass 3

[martin]

Ghst, do you have a hv probe? If you do, here could be a real test to determine if there's cold electric being produced. Instead of hooking up the coils to the output of the tube, store the discharges in a capacitor. Then measure the voltage stored in the cap. Hook the coils up to the cap and see how violent they pop. Now, directly recharge the cap with regular hv electric (no spark gap) to the same measured voltage. Hook the coils back up to the cap and see if the coil popping is weaker.

It has been said that actual cold electric cant be measured by conventional meters so if the coils are more violent using the electric from the tube and using the same measured voltage between the two tests, then cold electric is present. Gray used a variac and neon sign transformer to demonstrate this. He charged the caps to say 3kv with the transformer then popped the coils. Then he charged the caps to say 3kv with cold electric and then popped the coils to demonstrate the massive difference between the two forms of electric.